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If you can spin the stick it's going to jam. I could never "make" it jam, darn well would jam in forward gear when facing a building or fence too. Limped it home one time in 4th gear to unstick it. Hired help and a crash box transmission won't mix on a good day. Good thing those 240s are so...

If in doubt stay off it, expensive and urgent problem to fix when it doesn't work.

I eliminated my 240 gear sticking issues by loosening the nut on the shifter lever and rotating it slightly. My shifter was "crooked" and it would jam, especially during a 4th to R shift in low range. I assume years of use caused it to pivot a little. I shift it a lot when I am using it...

Looks like it's not a convertible II to I hitch then. Certainly an unusual setup.

I'm going to guess it's not going to fit, it needs a "taller" tractor.

15.4 GPM pump on tractor running wide open will keep three men busy and the wedge never stops :-)

Splitfire

230 older model, basic model of 235 245 family. US built 231 newer model, basic model of 240. UK Built. 231S was Polish.

The pairing is how almost every Kubota dealer here started. The Kubota business grew so much that they either dropped the "original" brand or branched off to separate orange buildings/business. One Kubota dealer I use still has all the CaseIH parts manuals and carries some parts even though...

Might be regional, at least here almost every Kubota dealer WAS a "mainline" dealer for decades. One was JI Case/New Holland (pre Ford New Holland) then CaseIH/Kuhn and now just Kubota, another chain was International/CaseIH now Kubota, another chain Massey Ferguson/AGCO and Kubota. Again, full...

I agree, support needed if you can't do it yourself. Might be regional, most Kubota dealers around here are full line and very much into the Ag side of it versus the homeowner/grounds care. Kubota hay equipment has been out a few years and they have been pushing it heavy, keeping in mind it's...

Nice, makes it easy when you've got a little splitting to do and already something on the 3pt. I have the same 203 splitter here, it stays on it's own tractor while I'm in the splitting season.

This is true. I hay to feed cattle, which in turn generate manure which gets spread on the field. The fields that get manured every year yield very well, the ones that don't, need fertilized, limed reseeded.

Exactly. I mowed one field 9-10pm, was baling it 11 am the next morning. Was a clear windy night. I do use a tedder, mainly since it gains me a few hours and ensures it's all mixed uniformly (not dryish on top, wet on bottom)

Here it goes into the "garbage"

If you wrap and sell you pretty well have to individual wrap and use a bale grabber, so more $$. At least here plastic is on par, or cheaper, than the annual property taxes on a new building big enough to hold the bales, and a wrapper is a lot cheaper than a building. I do know of some...

I'm buying another tractor at some point. I am really torn between buying new or buying something used. In my case, for business so there are some different considerations compared to private use.

No worries. Try Canada? These claim available on Ontario. https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1114121/new-hla-rrg88-grapple https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1200186/used-2021-hla-brg84ao600-grapple

Call HLA and find an HLA dealer. They make them. https://hlaattachments.com/cat.php?cat=Grapples They have 84"

Swing your drawbar to one side. I have to do this with several 3pt implements on several tractors so it's not unusual.

Be a feature length film for anything other than brand new gears with no slop and a creeper reverse tractor for almost any operator. I can back two empty wagons up if in no rush and in the right mood, but if I have to put both wagons into a barn, I unhitch and back one at a time.

I agree anything other than a straight line more than one is pushing it. Three would be pushing it for the most expert operator. I won't say impossible since there are some that say backing one is impossible :-) I haul all my bales with this combo. I've been backing wagons for decades and...

I have an MK Martin. I've had it several years, very happy with it. I have a 78". I do a lot of territory with it, lots of driveway and farm use. Get both the hydraulic rotate and deflect if you have two remotes.

I have a Meteor with that connector, make sure your PTO shaft on tractor is clean and well greased, make sure the blower coupler clean and well greased, slide on so the coupler goes past the "groove" then pull it back, should go on easily. If it's not, something is dirty, rusted or broken.

I'm by far an expert, but the whole urgency and fact it was hard to get out of it screams scam to me....especially if you don't have McAfee. The capitalization on that phrase seems off.

Shopping around pays off.

Next to impossible to start from scratch here. Only younger people getting in are because of family farm being there. There isn't any payback on the capital cost to start now in almost every case. George Fox summed up the struggle of selling out due to urban encroachment in 1989. "somebody...

I've got the 2 grabber version, two of them, wore one out I used it so much. I can't figure out why the third grabber helps any more than two. I use barbwire and wooden posts.

Size of tractor type of bucket + size of pile and how frozen it is are all factors. Not sure your location i.e. how far north. I am in Canada and run manure packs in barns and they more or less self heat all winter, might freeze the top a little in a really cold spell. The edges of the packs...

I have an M7040SUHD. I do a lot of loader work and the shuttle is also very handy with field work. Clutch pedal 100% optional to move the shuttle lever, either F to R or stopping in N. You can also put it in gear from neutral from a dead stop, or pull it into neutral when dumping bucket into...

I've never seen a wagon with a "pin" that stops it from turning. I've used dozens of wagon running gears of various makes and homemade ones over the years. One I have was new in 1940 and I just bought a new wagon at the end of 2023, rest have been all between that in age, no pins. I can't think...

I looked at a new 450 utility....sounds like piece of junk to avoid. For 200 bales a year it shouldn't break at all. I've made that many bales without a breakdown on a 30 + year old baler. I'd buy Kubota if I was buying new. I can buy an older NH 600 series for under 10K, put all new belts...

I had a 2k 7.3, don't remember that (I had manual hubs)

Yes, especially when you have no mirrors on the tractor. Lets you line the doorway better.

How do you back it up? Use reverse! The shorter the wagon wheel base and shorter the hitch, the harder it is though. There is no mystery to backing a wagon up, just takes a lot of practice, I have decades of it though. Just imagine the tractor is the "steering wheel" for the front axle...

Ouch

Every time I open the gate to drop a bale it is a feeling of relief. Older equipment first random idiotic breakdown last season, pickup mount broken off. Lost a couple hours welding it back together to bale.

Your money so buy new if you want. Personally I'd find a used one. 30-50 year old PTO spreaders in good condition (some near new) can still be had around here if you are patient. Usually under 4K too. Anyone who bought them new and only seasonally used them "once a year to clean the piles up"...

Very stressful running older gear. Never know what is going to fail. Usually at least 3-4 break downs a season, some can be dealt with in an hour, others end a season. Had two major breakdowns in the last few years; one ended up in having to have last of the hay custom baled ($$$ PLUS $$$ to...

I have an HD 3pt PTO one, just got it, replaced an older 3pt one I had. It was half the price of a loader mounted one. I wanted a loader one for the down pressure and reverse feature, wasn't sure I'd have the hyd to run it and the price tag made the answer easy.

I'm running an 80s era 256, was a year old when it came to the farm. Only had couple u joints, set of pawls and many tines over the years. Still has original rubber and some original tines left. 8' 6" at a time is the bottleneck right now. Debating on whether to get a bridge hitch and run two or...

I've never worried about it. I'm sure it wears some.

I put a few hundred miles on a year on pavement. Trailering wouldn't work for my uses anyways.

"here" you'd be 15k CDN minimum just for a serviceable discbine and round baler and old rolabar rake....and that stuff would break down so you'd need to work on it yourself. Disc-moco are cheap used here compared to straight mower. 100k CDN would get you all new basic round baler (70k), 8...

These were 4-12 32' span, lifted onto 14' sidewalls. Unsure of the weight, didn't care. Top of boom was over 21' in air as I lifted it clear of side walls as I drove it in. Just a piece of pipe on end of a manure tine. Chains running rack to bucket back in a "V" to carry the tension load...

I need to know more...but if it was me I'd space poles 8 feet apart with 2x8 headers. 2x6 rafters 2 feet centers with 2x4 purlins on the rafters on 16" centers. Your lean to can't be too wide for any sort of slope using 16' rafters. You can achieve 2 12 pitch easy with 12 foot width, 4 12...

Category II is standard on mid size gear, a 84" blower should be Cat II. Easy way to tell is the pin diameter, 7/8" pins are Cat I, 1 1/8" are Cat II. Your hitch maybe set up Cat I but should be changeable to Cat II if it isn't. 2155 should lift and spin a 84" blower but you might be slow...

How wide / tall can you go and still clean out your barn? I'd get the biggest one that will fit.

If it's a 240 Massey, R should be 1991.

Good tractor for the money. I assume 2wd crashbox for that price.

It's probably better than whatever you took out. I did a fluid change on one older tractor with Walmart UTF and zero issues several years later.

US market model numbers always seemed unique. Looking at photos of one it looks like an MTZ built tractor. Appears similar to a 5480 or 5490 which would be similar to the older 925. 14/4 speed or 9/8 speed shuttle, dry clutch. They are cheap power and if you get a good one, you have a good...

All valid points, that's why it's best to know your and your tractor's capabilities. When in doubt how a tractor will handle a grade, stay in lower gears and follow the trucker principle of descending a hill in the same gear you'd climb it in and never downshift after heading down hill incase...

1) Looked at them, M7060 12 speed cab is less money for smaller cab.Either will work perfectly fine for snow removal with loader or blower. Currently run an M7040SU which is same power size. Planning to get a cab model in future. Will do same work. 2) Shuttle will give you same speed back and...

I guess to simplify this 1) tow trailer or wagon with drawbar (gooseneck different story) 2) Use double the tractor weight as a starting point. You likely won't get the load moving in mud, but no issue where it's hard. I won't pull a heavy load in the snow and ice either. An unbraked load...

Looks homemade to me. Also looks like a deathtrap.

I think you'll find it all comes down to price. In some cases EVERYTHING is the same except the "fuel screw" or computer setting and the decal on the tractor. I priced out a utility Deere a few years back and 20 HP more was 10,000 more even though nothing was different but the pump setting...

I'd think a 512 would be "whole goods" only as it's not a QA loader. I understood there are only one set of mounting frames / loader towers and they only came with the loader. 553 was the QA loader for those tractors, not sure what the newer models are, but what ever fits a 5045D might fit...

1) Yes you can do it 2) Drawbar, unless you can "lock" your 3pt so it's not all over the place. 3) Tractor 7 pin is like semi truck. You can buy proper adaptors. I have one for tractor 7 way to RV 7 way for pulling "pickup" trailer behind tractor and one for converting RV 7 way to tractor 7way...

I'll still buy a manual vehicle if I can. Miss my manual 3/4 ton. Rust belt here so almost anything that fits my needs that is manual has rotted away years ago.

Yeah, those are horrible for a loader. Real fun too when the speed lever jams in gear and you have to "screw driver through the filler hole" it. Use to blow snow with one, low reverse to low 4th nice U pattern to jam in.

Powershuttle (clutchless shuttle w/gear drive) is fine by me, saves almost all the clutching in loader work and odd jobs. I am buying in a HP class that doesn't come in hydro so moot point for me. I likely would go hydro for a compact with lots of starts and stops (yard work, loader work...

I'd get a pro to remove that if you aren't confident. Looks like malware to me, no way would I click that. It screams scam.

Tire truck changes tires without removing the rims anyways. I had one flat on a rear (with/fluid) I did remove rim and tire, haul to tire shop with truck, had them do it there etc. Wasn't worth the headache. Didn't really save any money by the time I had a couple hours in unbolting, loading...

You may have a cable failing, my LA1153 loader joystick stopped going into float and then the lever would sit off center with in neutral, few days late the cable snapped and I lost all up and down. Cable was easy to replace and dealer had it in stock. I replaced both cables while I had it apart.

M4700 is really the same premise as almost every farm tractor in that HP class built in the 60/70/80/90s. I farm only with 8-speed tractors at the moment, work gets done fine, more gears are better though.

I do a lot of road travel. I use every gear in high range pulling wagons and implements etc on the road. My travel includes upgrades where I have to downshift to keep moving. I'd use high 3rd plenty on an M4700 if I farmed with one.

If straight gear drive there should be no hydraulics involved. Was the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk all done together?

You are into road gear territory, that is why. The gears space nice for upshifting to top speed. The ratios don't change low range 2 to low range 3, but the multiplier factor of the range transmission spaces them out further speed wise. If 2 and 3 were closer together, they would be almost the...

Looks like an electric fuel pump? Different setup than the 152 perkins in the 240. Are you getting fuel to the injection pump?

I'll guess it's fully compressed and "stuck" Fixed length would not even allow you to put it on the tractor successfully.

Wow. I always have a grade or hill to go up, downhill should cancel out the uphill but it doesn't seem to work that way :-) I've got the older 1st gen ecoboost in a 2011 and way more miles too so newer ones would be better for sure. Engine certainly does pull good. I find towing does kill...

Best I've seen on my 3.5EB crew cab 4x4 6.5' box & 3.73 axle ratio is 21.5 US MPG.

Here it is the 0" drop "Triple Ball" that allows you to tow anything (but never do) Stays in the truck permanently. Bonus points if it has the tow hook(also unused) and chrome.

C Considering the first Cummins Ram was 160HP and 400 ft of torque.

I can order a $20 item on Amazon with free shipping that ships from China and gets to my door in a couple weeks. If I wanted to send the same $20 item 60 miles away it would cost me $25!

Usbalerbelts ones I bought were cut to correct length and had the alligator lacing done, even came with new pins. I do have a lacing tool and keep spliced and pins on hand, my old belt set had many splices.

Yeah, 630 twine only and slow compared to new machine. It was well loved when I got it and I've replaced most of the bearings, all belts, the CV shaft, most chains, one tension spring + broke the main drive roller last year. Have more in parts than was paid for the baler well used but total...

No, put them on and bale. I bought a set from usbalerbelts and have been running them many years on my 630.

Ford sells two "Broncos" at the same time. Bronco Bronco Sport The "Bronco Sport" is a totally different vehicle than the "Bronco". The sport is still a capable vehicle but more of a family SUV, where the Bronco was more in the line of the original Bronco from years ago I see all kinds of...

If 2wd no major issues, just need the right wheels/rims and measure the make sure you have fender clearances. If 4wd, you have to match your front axle lead or you will destroy something. compare the RCI (rolling circumference index) of the two you have with the one you.

I personally do it, yes there are hazards as with anything else. I built a pole barn using two front end loaders and two ladders to do everything. Make sure the tractor is on even ground Make sure the wheels are locked (in gear, brakes set, wheels chocked if needed. Make sure there is no one...

Keep in mind the tank might have a lower sump then what you can see from the filler, I know the 240 does. I would see if you get lots of fuel flow to the filters. Likely wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filters too.

I priced a Farm King bale wrapper that is built in Poland and imported to North America . Buhler imports with the Farm King sticker on it and even keeps the same model number. Local price quoted several years ago was $6500. I found the same wrapper for sale online in Poland for $2500. Not sure...

Perkins 152 should need 6.5 litres oil with filter change.

I was very skeptical of a newer gas 1/2 ton being anywhere close to an older 3/4 diesel. In my case my 150 is 157" wheelbase and my 250 was 156" wheelbase. Both had 10 ply tires. Pulling the same trailers on same roads I found no difference. I have never had bumper pull trailer sway issues...

Exactly. Current 1/2 ton does what you used to traditionally need a HD pick up to do.

I mean on the factory 2" Class IV receiver hitch. Trailer over 5000 lb required WD hitch. Ford limited F250 & F350 to 10,000 bumper pull with WD hitch for 2000 model year.

My F250 Super Duty Diesel required a WD hitch over 5000 on the bumper, same as the F150. Yes the ecoboost would out pull a 351/5.8, My Ecoboost will pull grades faster than my 7.3 diesel 6-speed would.

Glad you found some information. These are nice tractors and to me a far nicer than most of the new stuff in that size range. Yes I can be found over there :-)

They might with the small transport wheels, I see them on Kubota cab tractors coming in, tiny rims and tires that lower the tractor so it's almost dragging on the ground.

Might not be the parking brake band parts, of course someone might have replaced the band. You are very lucky it still works. Redpower magazine has some threads on testing the 8x8 trans clutch packs.

Is your reverser a lever on dash beside the steering wheel? That is the 8x8 shuttle shift, you still have a dry clutch...but forward has a clutch pack and reverse a separate one. I suspect your reverse clutch pack is shot if it drives good forward and not in reverse. You might have found...

I'd paint this and put new seats in it if the frame and body are good :-) I did go from a 7.3 SuperDuty to an early model 3.5 ecoboost and I am happy with it towing. I tow bumper pull and I've had zero stability issues and have more power with the ecoboost. Ride is way better, my body...

Pump price for diesel has been cheaper than 87 octane gas for several weeks here.

2wd and mainly highway and hardly any towing: Pretty well any P metric tire that is new or nearly new will work. In this case I'd shop for the deal on price and not the tire brand. See what is used and slap the on. Tires are crazy expensive now and I agree with finding either take offs or used...

I just did front axle in M series, I used UDT in it. $9 a liter here..... I'd think regular 80W90 would suffice. I only used UDT since I use it in the hyd/trans and wanted to keep it the same.

If you have a manual for the 231 it might outline how it works, but it was something like constant pumping and you moved the draft lever to send the flow. I do know the book showed that set up is for single acting cylinder, hence why I theorize second line is never pressurized. I can dig out...

If you flip the isolator to 3pt mode you may have pressure to those remote couplers using the draft control lever. If you had a cylinder to plug into the outlets you could test and see. I am also wondering if those two hoses were set up to plug in a wood splitter or other implement with it's...

Well, I guess that was obvious :-) I am going to guess it would have to meet US EPA for 2022 then, which it might not. For the OP, this might be best answered by EPA.

Your loader is off the isolation valve by the seat, do you have to close that to make your 3pt work? You could have a one way remote valve set to run off the 3pt controls, I've never seen the two hoses, my MF 240 manual shows how to use one hose for a remote, you have to chain the 3pt arms or...

What model year is the tractor? The older 5075E flat top fender model sold in USA were only Tier II and were sold for years. The later round fender ones had the emissions stuff on them. I will guess shipping will be less than the difference selling in India and buying a US spec one. I...

I have a 630. Make sure your tension springs are within spec, but my experience is driving slower makes a better bale. I bale about 4 MPH.

Sounds like some progress. Air should purge by cycling loader several times.

I'd swap the hoses first to rule out the loader, easy to do if you have 4 hoses, hard to do if a monoblock connector.

I've used the locking style air chucks, less than 10 bucks, but they need enough valve stem to clip on at a 90 angle.

If you've got the loader (and mounting brackets) off you're set up right you could probably have it split in less than two hours. Rest of the time getting old clutch assembly replaced and flywheel done if needed.

For 485, depends on the model and configuration, a 2wd with no loader or cab could be less than a day in shop start to finish, 4wd with (aftermarket) cab and loader add a bunch of time.

The "long" lever is L H | | ---- | R While the is "neutral" on the stick, it isn't on the shift pattern. Do not shift while moving. Leave stick in gear (L H or R) and use N on the speed lever. "Short" lever is fully synchronized, shift while moving with clutch. 2 4 | | --N-- |...

I've done loader work with no power steering. It is a lot harder to do the job since you can't turn the wheels when stopped. You have to be rolling and plan where your wheels need to be positioned before you stop. Not impossible, life is just better with power steering. Personal experience...

From my 485 operator's manual

Linkage looks correct, you have to adjust pedal height with turnbuckle "11" Eventually you run out of adjustment and the clutch is toast. There are variations where IH/CIH went from adjustable to self adjusting.

Self adjusting clutch should cause the pedal to lift higher as the clutch wears. Likely need a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel to make it work like new again.

I have an old AgriFab, worked well enough. The two big things are to have the material dry out a little bit and to drive as fast as you can. I always drove WOT and high gear/hydro full forward. Mainly AYP tractors that did 5-5.5 MPH. I pulled it with a MTD transmatic that did faster and it...

You have the actual VIN for the truck or you are just trying to figure out what one could tow? Looks like anywhere from 8300 to 13000 on the Ford tow chart https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/dam/aem_fleet/en_us/fleet/towing-guides/2023_Ford_RVandTrailerTowingGuide_Nov22.pdf

You can buy the entire PTO driveline complete with safely shields usually for less than putting new cross kits in and buying new shields. Tractor end is easily, you just need to confirm the implement end diameter and type. Examples for $99 & $145...

I've had several AYP/Craftsman lawn tractors with 42" decks since the early 90s. The spindles are all the same. Main difference has been later ones were "12 gauge" and the mounting brackets on the top and PTO engagement rod versus cable. Yours looks to have electric clutch.

I'd be surprised seeing as highway trucks including government highway plows will run chains, I've seen them in NB.

Grass seed is $175CDN for 25kg bag, over double from two years ago, too expensive to waste. I never had any luck broadcasting by hand or even running the drill over sod to over seed. I just turn the land and start fresh. I have a grass seed insert for my 3pt Vicon but never used it, I...

You can, just not very fast, I drove longer distances on pavement for years with chains. Preference is without with the distance though.

Chains make a huge difference. Just keep them tight or you will be damaging fenders etc.

You'll still slide with studs. Leave brakes unlocked and use left & right as needed. I used 2wd for years for snow removal, steering brakes necessary even with a loader on the front. 2wd with no loader & blower on the back you only want the front to stay planted enough for steering on...

Yes. If 4wd wasn't meant to be used it would be totally pointless to have it. Only time I would NOT use 4wd for loader work would be on a hard, dry surface such as asphalt where the front wheels WON'T slip easily and you'll "feel" the binding in the driveline. I usually read comments on...

There should be a rod to engage it, so it's on and off. The pulley also stops with the clutch pedal, you push clutch in, put transmission in neutral, pulley in gear, and you can let clutch out to feather the pulley & belt load if needed. I'd say your engine drive bush hog designed for ATV is...

Belt pulley, for flat belt stationary equipment like a threshing machine or feed grinder etc. Basically obsolete. I've used flat belt equipment and there is a reason everything went to PTO drive.

It will pull your current tow behind no problem and save your ATV, so this is a win. Spin it that you don't have to buy another bushhog (yet)

WD6 never had a 3pt lift or similar, strictly a standard tread drawbar tractor for pull type implements. May or may not have a hydraulic outlet ("remote") If your WD6 has a remote outlet you can likely pull a pull type bushhog that has a hydraulic wheel lift. If you don't have remote, then...

Might be manual on ebay. 4210 is solid machine, last of the full IH line dating back to the 674.

I've used US balerbelts.com. I replaced a set on a NH baler and was very happy with service, price and quality. Shipping was decent fast too. https://www.usbalerbelts.com/JohnDeere.htm

I'd pull start the tractor, get in running, remove loader.

Battery or battery connection issues. Bad ground and/or low voltage cause all kinds of weird issues from electrical gremlins to no start to "nothing wrong"

I will add if you are worried leave the bales in the field for a bit or place the bales in a wide open space that gets lots of wind and sun. Space the bales out so all sides can breathe.

Congratulations on your first crop! If it twist tested easy in the field you will likely be fine. I've rushed some hay with rain coming and 4x4 baled some that wasn't quite ready. Bales kept and cows ate it. If you found a really damp one it could have been a green slug in the field. When I...

If conditions are dry and tires are decent you'll likely be fine with 2wd. I used to do my yard work with a quad and trailer. The quad was selectable 4wd and even towing a trailer I rarely needed to shift into 4wd unless ground was wet/soft. Off road / woods work yes 4wd needed all the time...

Making some progress then. Looks like the charge warning is the big ticket now.

Got added to my vocabulary after it leaked :-)

I'd sling on 500 lb or so of weights. I use a 3pt spreader that holds about 600lb of fertilizer on a MF 240 with zero front weights and I can get it to lift the front end at times.

Biggest issue in the rust belt anything pre-emissions has rotted into nothing by now. Powertrain is good but nothing else is. Some will buy a truck from the west or south and bring it back, not an option for most and costly to get it here. I saw a 2 or 3 year old F150 a few weeks back and was...

The 4R100 and ZF6 had the same ratios in the top gears so exactly the same problem. Both needed a gear in between, both were geared perfect for 55 MPH driving though. 3rd gear auto and 5th gear manual were 1:1 4th gear auto and 6th gear manual were 0.72:1 The newer automatics with double...

I've driven both as well. Have to wait for glow plugs on those BD154 and BD144 engines. The 444 were a simpler design and cheaper than the 54/74 series World Wide tractors. Dry clutch live PTO, center shift crash box. The 74/84 series nicer to drive with IPTO and synchronized transmission.

Wish I could still get a stick too. I studied the ratios out in the G56 6-speed in the last models of Cummins Ram so equipped, they seemed spaced good, 1st is granny low and 6th over drive. I had a ZF6 in a 7.3 Super Duty and 1st was granny, 6th overdrive, it was spaced good other than I...

GMC Sierra, C1500 to be exact, in this case a 1/2 ton reg cab with 8 foot box. 20 year old 250 would be a Super Duty. The early 90s and older 250 used the same cab as the 150.

Manual trans is dead in full size pickups as of 2018 model year (Cummins Ram only as option) Last year for Ford Super Duty was 2010 with 6.4 powerstoke / 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10 GMC/Chevrolet was 2006 if I remember right, 6.6 Duramax, 8.1 Vortec and 6.0 Vortec. I had to go to an automatic on my...

It's a Ford Super Duty thing. I had a 2K power stroke as well with stick on the floor and manual hubs. It was still available in the teen model years last I looked.

I know for a fact 4 men could squeeze onto a vinyl bench in a 80s era 4 speed F150 and close the doors. Not comfy but it worked. Couldn't do that on the newer Sierras with bench or 60/40.

674 and 684 use same D239 and both were rated 62 PTO HP. 574 used D239, but was rated 52 PTO HP. 584 used D206 at 52 PTO HP, there was also a 474 that used the D206 at 48 PTO HP.

Reg cab is great for no more than 2 people and cargo that can stay in an open bed in all weather and that cargo is not desirable or easy to steal. I drive both crew 6 3/4ft and regular cab 8 ft. Full 4 door crew so much nicer carrying people, supplies and tools. I've used the back seat to...

2250 should have quick connects for each hose (4) so the loader can be removed. If it's been "fixed" to not do this, than yes, swap hoses with wrenches. There is a flasher under the dash, follow the wiring from the switch, should be visible when you remove the battery door on the hood...

Years ago 2-3 ton straight trucks were common here on farms, flatbed with removable sides, often a hoist as well. You could haul grain, hay, cattle and a tractor etc. Pickup trucks of that era were challenged to carry much and didn't tow much either. With the advent of the diesel full size...

Backing into a garage? I'd move with the truck, mirrors and the regular secure hitch. Only way I'd personally consider moving with TLB would be if the truck wasn't available and the trailer had to be moved asap. Smaller TLB and 5th wheel I have visions of the loader lifting it ok, start moving...

674 is 62 PTO HP. They were built in Doncaster England or final assembled in Louisville KY from UK skid unit. 1973 first year. No doubt some were still being sold new in 1978 or later. The 684 came out in 1978 (replaced the 674) There is a serial number list on tractor data, but it doesn't...

Too bad they didn't put a wheel on it...US model.

1978 not first year for a 674.... UK or US....

Exactly. I was surprised the grill and fenders weren't bashed. I saw a rather nice looking manure spreader at auction once, went to look closer and they painted right over the manure.....

Have to be something that rotated upwards on the lower links and put compression on the top link. I know a guy that bent a top link using a breaking plow.

Bet it as a dairy farm machine, manure still caked in bucket. Bet the rest was coated before the photos. The bent top link is and added bonus.

I have a US built LA loader on an M series. I like it. Canadian market both were available at same time, Kubota built or ALO Quicke built. I didn't cost compare as the LA loader was already mounted. M940 could be found on an M9000, random pic I found. Alo makes OEM loaders for almost every...

Looks like it's hydraulic shuttle from the photos? I'd use Kubota oils and filters only for that. With the turbo and cab I think straight pipe would be fine.

It's sort of the OEM loader anyways. Loaders like the Alo 940 were sold in Kubota orange with Kubota decals and serial plate in some markets. 900 series were self levelling and 700 non self levelling. Here's an M940 loader on an M105...

Sounds like forward clutch pack is slipping / linkage out of adjustment. You did the 50 hour filter and fluid change and used Kubota oil and filters?

CaseIH 75C isn't 75 PTO HP, closer to compare with a M7060 or M4-071 for price. I did look at the then current 75C years ago and it was more money than an M7060. Anything red is basically something blue painted red now. While I like both red and blue my first pick is now orange. There is a...

My 2000 F250 was the same way, real easy to remove the hub. Literally 60 second job to replace a hub.

If you have quick attach (i.e skid steer) get the proper spear attachment. Life if much easier, less weight on the front, bale is closer to loader, you can see the tip of the spear much easier.

BR7050 is 4x4 baler and part of the 630/634/638 lineage. When the 630 came out it needed 35 PTO HP...as the baler got newer the power requirement upped for user experience. I run a 630, the oldest model in that line, I used to run it with 42 PTO HP utility, full baler heading uphill 4.5 MPH I...

Enjoyed Season 2. Will watch Season 3 if it comes along. Cattle sideline was quite entertaining. "We don't own that, it is a demo" was by far the biggest screw up equipment wise.

Nice, something to work on. Be good machine when back to 100%. 1996 was first year for the solid blue New Holland with "Ford" in block letters and NH logo in the grill. 1995 were still Ford with the Ford Oval in the grill.

I just reread your post and saw 15 acres to hay. Not sure on what your ground yields now for hay, but that could be baled in a few hours easy with 4x4 baler, no ramps and twine. I would assume you'd break it up though. I see 2850M listed for tractor, that will just be on the low end of size...

As stated it lets the bale roll away from the baler and lets the tailgate close with out moving the tractor. What this means is you clutch tractor, tie the bale, open the tailgate, the bales rolls out, you close tailgate, the let clutch out to keep baling. Without ramps, you have the extra...

I'll add no ramp is a little extra work when baling, unless you dump bales heading uphill everytime. I have ramp on NH and still have to back up (and turn) if I am headed downhill when ejecting bale. If you are only making a few bales it's not exactly a deal breaker.

There were a lot of the 335 446 447 family sold around here. Many had the high moisture kit for making haylage. Certainly less of the 446 447 models and by the time those were new most went the the 456 / 457 silage specials etc. Deere and NH owned the round baler market here for years. 4x4...

I run 78" on 64 PTO HP gear drive. Good balance of power and width. I could handle 84/86" but deep snow still wants more power. With 78" I am still clutching on extra deep stuff until I can make part passes. Deep stuff I start out with the blower raised (part of all) and drive until I spin out...

Looks nice. I had made a drag out of old wagon wheel bands for cow manure levelling, worked best when manure was dried out. Really spread it out

If the auger pin sheared then the fan was turning at the time, the PTO shear pin should of let go if something broke in the fan or gearbox (or stalled the tractor) If the fan doesn't move at all then something may have froze solid/siezed versus jamming the fan. Gear box oil level would be a...

Exactly. I bought a kit years ago and it pays for itself every time.

Have radials loaded with Calcium. Loader tractor so weight is desirable. Came that way from dealer.

I'm thinking 12volt ATV winch mounted on the hitch. Use two equal length cables on it. Wind each cable on drum opposite so one goes out and other goes in when winch turns, one line running under axle with pullies/rollers and up to the rear of the trailer, the other to the front of the body...

Price a new rim before messing with old one. yes, you will likely need a new tube if there is metal embedded in it. Only worse than changing the rear rim once is having to do it a second time and now you've leaked fluid onto the new metal.

Yes, replace the insert. Takes a minute. Jack wheel up, 12 o'clock position and change. I've had calcium for years, one tractor is on third set of cores in 30 years. Just did one late last year. Cores are cheap are tire store, I keep them on hand. I never add air or check tire pressure in a...

I think that pin is for some Ferguson specific attachments like a pick up hitch. Its also on the 240 which has a completely different draft set up.

I use foot throttle exclusively for loader work, hand throttle isn't used for loader work. I am off throttle (idle RPM) whenever engaging shuttle. Engine can be revved up as needed with foot throttle whether for more hyd power or speed, or to increase travel speed. I also use low range at all...

Pull the shuttle into neutral as you coast into the pile, curl bucket, pull shuttle back in reverse and go. No pedal needed. Same as dumping, pull into neutral, dump bucket/shake etc, pull shuttle back in reverse and go. I load manure from pack or pile into spreader, round bales on and off...

The early gear boxes used the smaller shaft. I had an early 70 and I did the bearings in the gearbox and found that out. Yes it is a Dana-Hayes gearbox.

Might be worth putting new cables on it anyways. I did them on an LA series loader on an M series, wasn't too hard. I had broke a cable but did both. I kept the old "good" one as a spare and it was noticeably stiff compared to the new one. Also, if you get the old cables off you can easily...

I run a Splitfire 3pt. Tractor I put it on has a 15.4 GPM pump and it splits anything I've put on it. If do it right the wedge never stops moving forward or backward. You can keep a few hands busy with it. 3pt model can drop to the ground and you can roll big stuff up on it, then lift 3pt...

I never found the ads annoying on this site. They are visible but do not detract from the experience. Ads you see likely relate more to your browsing habits. I always laugh when someone asks why they are seeing "mature" or "personal health issue" type ads on the site they are posting on.

Brakes and parking brake are main weakness, if the parking brake doesn't work it's no big issue with the loader. The brake pedals are hydraulic brakes and can leak, they can be bled and might work for a while. 5k seems ok with all the attachments if it starts and runs and moves with out...

Chain: https://www.princessauto.com/en/single-strand-roller-chain/product/PA1000001364?skuId=8738510 Master Link: https://www.princessauto.com/en/4-pk-roller-chain-connecting-links/product/PA1000001315?skuId=8738882 Half link "offset"...

Chain wears out, faster if not oiled. Old chain will have a master link with a clip. You can shorten the chain a couple links and put it back on, but keep in mind a well worn chain will eventually ruin the sprockets. Depending on how long the chain is, two links short might be too much, you...

Make sure you sending unit works first. It can be removed easily from the top of the tank.

Universal Tractor Fluid is what I would look for, then see what specs the pail claims it meets, than cross reference to your WSM. I've run UTF for years in an older wet brake / IPTO / remote hyd tractor with no issues. I do still run OEM oil in the wet clutch tractor. 303 is cheap for a...

Not sure on how much real harm is done for a few seconds on relief, I did find that light touch on lever just allows the oil to flow "out" and not get pressurized the opposite other way.

Double acting valve with float feature handles single acting cylinder easy, I have a wagon hoist, just put lever in float and it drops on it's own. I have used in on a double auto cancel valve and the only way to lower it with out deadheading/loading the used port was to just lightly hold the...

It's 3 cylinder 100%. IH didn't really stick to HP/ cylinder in the model numbers for those world wide tractors.

There are several versions of the 5610: 5610, 5610II and 5610S The 5610S is the newest, solid blue and New Holland decals, "S" on the radiator side panels. It was a very basic 2wd, 8x2 manual trans 70 PTO HP tractor. (The older ones had a smaller engine and 62 PTO HP, but could have manual...

I'd check the vent, might be blocked. I'd put an air line against the vent and see.

The tube you should see when you open the fuel cap runs to the bottom of the tank, if you look at the bottom of the tank you will see an unused looking fitting, that is the vent. I over filled the tank one time and fuel was coming out that way.

White smoke like that perfect normal. It will be worse if your cold start assist isn't working good, i.e. glow plugs. If it started it's likely fine. I had powerstroke with 2/8 working glow plugs and it would blow white smoke heavy until it touched off. Good batteries and starter :-) Got the...

Ouch. Agree on making your own.

Factory cab tractor is like a car, leaving the windows open/broken out isn't going to help the items that aren't made to get wet. I'd tape plastic over the window!

I pull an old fashioned 24 plate tandem tractor disk, drawbar only, no transport wheels, you can't lift it and you angle the gangs straight for transport. Next to no effort to pull it in "transport" mode, and you can angle the gangs as aggressive as you want. I find the biggest limiting...