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Getting back to the question at hand... We ran out of traction on our JD300 (basically a Deere 1020 painted yellow) before we ran out of engine when we set the ancient 8' drag disk at full angle over a plowed field... That's with 2000# of concrete hanging off the back, and the disk was really...

I expect that Amazon grommet tool uses standard grommets. A 3/8" opening grommet would be #2. At least the photos of the tool in question has the same kind of dies that my grommet tool does. You can get brass, nickle plated brass, aluminum, and stainless grommets through McMaster. I've used...

My place is on the side of a mountain... We have nothing but 2WD, and old... Amazingly, none of the equipment has slid to the bottom of the mountain to be abandoned because we can't drive it around regardless of the weather being wet, or icy. Yes, 4WD would be nice, but seriously, it isn't the...

I'd say don't look for an 8N... I love mine, I doubt I'd ever get rid of it, but it would make for a lousy loader tractor regardless of how many you see out there... It'll mow fields all day, or plow the field, and handles snow with the back blade just fine, but it's just not a good basis for a...

OP - You need to think about the physical size machine you want beyond just under 40hp... I've got a JD300, and a MF 202 Workbull. Both of which are 45ish hp, but are full size industrial machines. Loaders are in the 2000 lb lift range. The Deer is a 65, and the MF is a little older. Both...

Can you get a scale under the tongue of the trailer and see where you are? you can even do it with a bathroom scale if you use a lever to reduce the load on it by 1/2, or 1/4 and do a little math.

Fortunately, I still have the boot for the 140's EZ Rake that the blower came with. Still in good shape, and already color coordinates... No slope to dump on in this case... Compost heap is in the one almost flat field on the property... My unit must be older than a lot of the Trac Vac parts...

Well... That's good to hear. Currently, they're not dumping, but it gives me hope. There's a ton of rust, to the point of rust through in a few spots on the trailer. Could be that's giving me enough friction that the leaves are holding on. Now that the system is working, I plan to address...

That could be interesting... Could even throw the output in to the input of the MacKissic shredder... Probably too much business though unless I really need to shred them. The hoeing works fine. I'll just be pushing the pile up once I'm done with the loader. In a season, they'll be completely...

Because I hate when people don't ever report back on their thread with results... I got the blower going again... Had a stuck valve giving me fits...4 Horse K91 Kohler... Lots of sound and furry from that vintage iron. It is still mounted on the frame that hooks on the back of the 140. I got...

Hopefully that's just the tank line. If so, no issue with pressure really. Still, cheapo schedule 40 fittings don't shock me if they leak.

The reality is, yes, you could open your field with a BCS or other heavy walk behind. It will take an awful long time, and you will be beat up, and the machine may well take a beating, but it could be done. You could also spend the money to get the right tractor/tiller combo, and go after it...

Slasher being a rotary mower/field mower/brush hog type machine? If so, it isn't going to leave you a lawn like cut. They're more brutal machines. If you've got lawn, you would want a finish mower, or possibly a flail set up for grass... That said, I believe the TE20 is basically the same...

That sounds like an awful lot of trips... How big is your loader bucket? Here's what gave me that thought... Little quick math... 2 tire tracks, say 2' wide each. 100' long. 3" of gravel. Unless my math is wrong, that's 100 cubic feet of gravel, or a little under 4 yards to go 100'. I've got...

The most reliable crop for us in eastern PA every year was always rocks... We could make the garden pretty, but it sure took a lot of rock removal every year... To be on topic though, the OP's question really needs more info to answer. Tractor? Location? Soil type? Near trees, or in a large...

Everything old is new again... My Ford 909 rotary has an octagonal guard that mounts with that same system. Very nice for servicing the U-Joint/Slip Clutch. Nice to be able to retrofit that style to modern mowers.

Gotta get valves rated for the pressure involved. Not going to find them at the Home Desperate plumbing section.

Obviously, in addition to the pump, and auger head, you need a valve. You want the valve to be able to handle whatever your needed flow is, and also be able to handle a motor, rather than just a cylinder. You will want to be able to reverse it. Great when you get wrapped up in a root or...

I would think rather than just teeing across the lines, you could do a selector valve that would dump them both to the tank. It would be better if they went separately back to the tank so it had to flow through the tank, but even if they went to a common tank line, it isn't a confined...

Good luck. I hate chasing leaks.

Try a real thread sealant. You'll be surprised. I hate working with it as it's messy, but it works so much better than tape, it is well worth that slight headache. If it happens to be Loctite brand, fine, but you don't need/want a threadlocker.

Also, I don't know your machine specifically, but I've got rubber shock mounts on my splitter. They were a combination of rock hard, or missing after 40 years. I replaced all of them, and the vibrations away from the engine mounting plate calmed down nicely. Could be a cause for connections...

Depends on the connection type. If they're NPT threads, thread sealant. If they're JIC, just snugging them should work, absolutely no sealant. If they're ORB fittings, no sealant, and just tighten them. If still leaking, replace the O-Ring. I never use teflon tape on hydraulics. Something...

We run a few different pipes off 3 different spots on the mountain. In total, there are 5 pipes from 3 different spots. The smallest is a 3/4" line, and the largest is 1-1/2". When I was young, most lines had a frame, and insect screen wraps on them. It worked, but would get plugged, and...

Have to remove them to get down to dirt for insecticide treatment. Grass in the area is too sparse to handle moving them away from the house and mulching. Way too much volume. All of the leaves go over to a compost pile. No point in wasting the organic matter, just can't have it where it...

Great, sounds like it will be worth giving the 5 horse unit a shot. Easy enough to neck down at the top of the trailer. Damp is always an issue for me unless I go out daily. Apart from being pushed in to the woods, we're backed up on a mountain stream. Water never stops, and the damp air just...

I need some thoughts folks. We've entered the fall leaf hell now. It's way too late to be starting this, but really, this is as soon as I could really get to it. I really need a better way to collect leaves around the house I've just inherited. It's built up on piers, tucked in the woods...

If the power company is telling you 4' deep, you better figure for 4' deep. It doesn't matter if in reality 3' or 2' would work, if they tell you 4' and it isn't, they're likely to drive away when they show up. My folks put our power 4' down. No chance a trencher could do it where I am. Too...

If you have to go down this road, if you get left hand bits, on occasion the fitting will actually just screw out when you're drilling it. Haven't tried it on a taper thread like a pipe plug, but bolts with some frequency. At the very least, you're not making it worse with a right hand bit...

When my folks built their place in PA, they put it on piers. Not something simple like sonotubes... Plywood formed, 4 sided, tapered piers. The low side units are probably 9' above grade, and the base is around 24" square. That's a lot of concrete. It was all mixed, and poured by two guys in...

Wreck it if you must, but get it out. Replace it with brass. I tend to skip the square head, and get a hex head. Heat is good. A little tapping as you try to turn it can help as well.

I don't have a ditch/bank, but I've been researching since I'd like one too... With a 10' drop, you're not going to get that with a ditch/bank unless you can take it from both the top and bottom. You're also looking for minimum 5', more likely 6' outside the tire tread. That's getting to be a...

Cornice hook looks spot on.

The hay fork I have is made from flat stock actually. That said, the overwhelming majority of them seem to be made from round stock. Probably runs in and out of the hay easier.

I'm thinking not for hay. Obviously I can't be sure, but it's really the wrong shape, and built too heavy. This thing strikes me as part of an overhead gantry system for some kind of treatment line. Object gets put on hook, runs down the line, and dips in tank, or through an oven. Something...

Is that A-Frame supposed to be able to move independently of the mower? If not, weld the A to the Mower, and that eliminates a source of twisting that is likely loosening the pin/nuts. I'd also be looking for a longer lift pin, and double nut it on there, plus probably just weld the bushing...

There's a point when that's just simply the answer... I hate just throwing money at a project, but then I remind myself that the machine I'm working on has been on the planet longer than I have, and really, having a few hundred bucks in new wiring, or parts, really isn't a waste. It will likely...

If you're going to buy an auger anyhow, I'd lean toward just using that. Where I'm at, it's rock. Try to drive a 1" solid steel pin in anywhere, and 1/4 of the time, it will simple stop dead on a rock. 1/2 the time it will kick to the side. That last 1/4 they will go in. So we haven't done...

They did sell toe guards for the reverse rotation machines to keep that debris from hitting the back of the tractor. I doubt you'll find an OEM unit now, but you might be able to knock one out if you're decent at fabrication... So yea, looks like the idler should be inside the belt on your...

I wonder, since you've got a V pulley on the idler, and the tension spring looks backwards to me, is yours supposed to tension the belt from the inside, so it would make a triangle shape, rather than a kidney shape with the belt?

Riddlewitz: That arm should move freely, and really has to, so you need to start there. It wasn't hard to take it off on mine, so unless they welded it for some reason, it is likely just bound up badly somehow. Could you take a photo of the arm that the spring is attached to? It kinda looks...

That idler looks odd compared to my Mott 72... Yours looks like a V-Groove pulley, and the idler, (both original, and replacement) on mine is just a flat face, without the deep V. I could see that being a pain to fit. That said, either pull it back, or disconnect the spring, and get the belt...

Vines can be an issue with anything that rotates... Once you get them started, they're going to wrap on the shaft in a hurry. If they're the issue, I'd try cutting one, and letting it dry out to see if it gets brittle. If it did, then perhaps a selective herbicide to knock them out before the...

I always get a kick out of folks that post about cleaning up their woods... No criticism in any way. I kinda wish I could. The woods at my place is in fact trees living in an endless pile of rocks. If I tried to take any kind of mower through there it would be destroyed in short order. This...

Photos would go a long way to an ID.

I wonder at the choice of bolts to retain these pins. It's cheaper I imagine since the pin can be a little shorter, and that likely explains it. It will also be easier to remove, and install if you're changing it with any frequency, like a bucket. (how many people frequently change out a pin...

If I was running on asphalt, or gravel all the time, I'd go R4. Once I get off in to grass, or dirt, I want my R1's. The tractor with R4's could be running bald turfs and be no worse at my place... If I changed it to R1's I might actually use it once in a while...

Try looking for dynamic balancing, rather than just a driveline shop. The kind of place that does heavy machining on industrial pumps, and rotors. While I was working on my Mott, I found a place here in NJ that does some big stuff, and I have no doubt they could have handled a little 6' flail...

I wouldn't touch their offer with a 10 foot pole. Their lube schedule is insane, as evidenced by the carnage you've got. Get your money back, and find something reputable to buy.

Montage Enterprises in NJ is also an excellent source for Mott parts.

At work, we have to use mostly food safe lubricants, and most of them tend to be whiteish. I can't think why anyone would use that in a rotary, but who knows... I'd likely just change it and move on. Put whatever the manual specifies back in.

Well, in that case, I dealt with Century Spring. I don't honestly recall the process, but it wasn't memorably difficult. I'm not seeing a good web interface, but it might be there. I've got their paper catalog here someplace, and it's pretty extensive. I've also got "thespringstore.com"...

Well, you posted in a 3 year old thread... You might have gotten better traction starting your own, but see how it plays out. I can't help much on the spring specifically. Have you checked the parts book on your machine to see if that spring was available as a service part? If so, then your...

That kinda explains it... Retaining bolt fell out. Pin backed out of the far side. Near side bent, and as the ram extended, it bound on the pin and pulled it back up against the near side plate.

Well, a good hydraulic shop can tell you if they could straighten it. If not, they could make a new rod and end for the existing body.

I'll add this to the good advise above... If you've got mushrooming on end of the shaft, don't be afraid to get the grinder, or file. You obviously don't need the last inch of so to be perfect, but you absolutely can't have it over sized. Clean up the mess you leave with the strip sandpaper...

A backhoe doesn't usually take a ton of flow. You're not dealing with hydraulic motors, so it's just cylinders. You'll need to check what your remote can put out in terms of pressure. Assuming you have the pressure, the flow is just going to make the hoe run slower if it isn't optimal. When...

Vertical bandsaw for the spacers. Most power hacksaws would do a real number on pipe that small. I made enough blocks for every foot. I think I ended up with around 16", and could have gone further. The 7/16 rod is pretty robust.

The unit I made is 1/4", and yea, it was what was hanging around (literally). For your application, and since you're buying, I might lean toward 3/16". A) it's a little lighter, which matters since you're working on an offset unit. B) It should be a little cheaper. C)with the slightly smaller...

Well, it's been a long, sometimes frustrating, and pricey process, but I got the Mott 72 back together... Been raining for a day and a half on and off, so it's all wet and messy... Once I had it together though, I had to try it on the 3' tall field grass. Holy crap. It's now worth all the...

Is your SH74 so far gone that you can't get it back to a solid condition for less than $2000? Buying a used machine is almost guaranteed to need some work, so you'd be back at the same point you're at now. I took a chance on a very used Mott 72 for next to nothing, and by the time I'm done...

Yep, the rod is clamped tight. The rod I had was extremely rusty as well, so it also meant I didn't have to try to slide it through a tight clearance hole.

OK... The yellow blocks are just 3/4" steel stock cut something like 1" x 2". Hole in the face for the hanging rod (7/16" in this case), and then two holes for 1/4" bolts the other way. Cut the blocks in half, and you've got mounts. They're only yellow, because I happened to be painting...

Actually, we're all sitting here drumming our fingers waiting for the finished pictures... Back to work!

How's your welding?... Just finished these. Hoping to get the whole machine finished in a couple weeks.

Does the 2000 carb have an inlet screen in the carb like the 8N? I know you said you cleaned the carb, but if I didn't know it was there, I wouldn't have pulled the elbow on the 8N I just did... It was packed with grit. Do you get a solid stream of fuel from the carb drain plug?

Weird to get stuck halfway out... Does it rotate freely? Feel gritty? I've had things get stuck with a vacuum formed by an oil film, but quick couplers usually aren't that close fitting by the time they're half out.

Honestly, I didn't catch the shadow first... I found the parts breakout on Deere's page, then did some photo searching that turned up an image showing a 26 on that tower. I had to go back and actually check the OP's image after I saw that. I don't think it could be a 28, only because I haven't...

Looks like a 12 point socket to me. Mine were switched at some point to allen head bolts.

Actually, check out a John Deere 26. The shadow of "26" is on the sheet metal in your second picture.

Through an unrelated search, I happened across a photo that lead me to the JD site, and you might check out Models 10, 15, 15A, and 972. They all seem to use that sickle style blade. I can't imagine they made a bunch of different blades like that without just reusing what they already had.

I've seen those blades on crop choppers. So hacking away at corn stalks and the like in a field, rather than lawn. No real experience though...

That little plate on the gearbox is also indicative of the older style gearbox. If/when you get in to it, be careful to keep track of the various shims. They are what set the preload on the tapered roller bearings, as well as setting the backlash between the gears. When I get home Tuesday...

I had to replace the roller on mine. That was painful. I got mine for next to nothing, but it'll be a $2000+ machine by the time I'm done sadly. At least it's almost done.. Still feel better than dropping the same money on some China machine. At least I know I can get parts as needed for...

I'm on the back side of rebuilding a Mott 72. Obviously older than the Alamo you've got. It's been run hard, and abused. All that said, the gearbox is immaculate. Yea, it needed seals, and I did the bearings just because I don't want to tear it apart again, but there was zero wear on the...

That sounds like the right direction. (y)

Well, you could try the log... Worst case is you're out some time, and get annoyed by it. Start trolling Craigslist, or FB Marketplace and search for "weight". There are a number of units near me that I've been eyeing up to deal with ballast issues I have... A couple old small crane...

Yep... This is from the Titan site. That sure looks like a check valve cylinder to me. I've seen that in others while just casually browsing.

OK... So I've got a question since there are some ditch bank owners here... While I'd love one, that's not this year, or next, but I do like to dream... When I look at these units, the hydraulic cylinders that control the tilt of the head all appear to have locking valves on them so the...

Well, you can for sure use them for chemicals... That's the whole point. If you could reach all the 3 rows at once, that would be nice, but that center row is going to get taller than you can straddle pretty quick I imagine. If you were to block off all but the 3 nozzles over the trees, and...

Also... Depending on the particular mower, there may be different blades available that have an offset to cut lower. Then you can raise the deck a little to avoid dragging. At the end of the day though, it is a rough cut machine. Never going to cut like a finishing mower, or finishing flail...

I just got a set of those off Amazon. $40 Eparts, Inc. E-159335 Haven't had a chance to try them yet. They look ok.

I know we all hate what the calcium can do to a rim, but on the 4 tractors we've had for 50+ years, we've only lost 3 rims to it. The benefit due to the weight far outweighs the loss of a rim occasionally. I'd love to use something like rimguard, but it isn't as readily available.

With a welded in number, that sounds like a home built machine. High number for something like that, but who knows. It looks stout as can be for sure. Perhaps it started as a commercial unit, and then went to the Mad Max finishing school...

Well, sure, a little, but the tail wheel is such an abused location already, I don't imagine it would be significant...

Looks like you have room over the wheel to add some spacers to the pivot shaft. Possibly another inch or more.

You can also used a moldboard plow. You'd have to work it down to seedbed after the plowing, but it would get you turned over. You could likely handle a light disk after plowing to knock it down somewhat. As others have stated, weight is an issue. I wouldn't get too hung up on the 4wd vs...

Well, I can only speak to our place, but the "yard" is old fields, and horse pasture. Has there been time in the last 50 years to manicure it, sure... Then drive across it once when it's wet, and you have new texture to bounce across from the ag lugs. Don't drive when wet? That isn't really...

Well, a Walker GHS would do it. I wouldn't call it ideal for 10 acres of wide open areas, but it would work. My father decided to cut our several acres of field/lawn with a 42" GHS 20 years ago. For 20 years every blade has been collected, and composted. Last summer we had to finally replace...

Have you checked out the Flailmaster catalog to see if you can make a different knife work? I have to believe you could come up with something that beats $6.50 per blade...

Well, I would not get a damn 4' wide finish mower to mow the acres my family cuts... It works, but it's too small. I can whip around on the 8N with it, and get a pretty good job done on the "lawn" acres in 2 or 3 hours. When I run the same area with the Walker with the 42" deck, it takes way...

I think you guys running Cat 2 gear are kinda missing the point here... If you're running 2, obviously you need that size, and weight. You can get a GT, with Cat 0 in to places that you can't with something larger. That isn't likely to be an issue for people with lots of land, but small lots...

I'm only semi qualified to answer this since I'm still slowly getting my flail put back together... So this is from lots of other mowing experience... If you're struggling to get your Ingersoll through the rows, I would suggest you might try to convince your wife to go a bit wider on that next...

Focus... Holley needs the solenoid info, not the tank shutoff... :) Holley, try looking up 520949M92 You'll have to confirm that's what you're looking for, but that's out of the AGCO partsbook site for a Zenith 13338 carb. The solenoid system was optional apparently.

Could well be a shutoff solenoid. There's one on my 1970 135 with the Perkins. Is it OEM, I don't know. but it's part of the carb, and works just fine... My 135 has a Zenith 13338 carb which is one of the carbs they used. That said, I don't see a solenoid in the above photo.

Half of them came off yesterday... I just didn't get over to the other building to drop the second set. It was flurrying on and off all day just to make me second guess my life choices...

Personally, I'd rather have something like a towable boom, or small bucket truck, but if you're all in on a 3PH setup, I've run across these while cruising the net: http://skid-lift.com/tractors/

Set up correctly, it shouldn't have an issue. We pull a 2 bottom with our 8N. We've got clay, and rock to pull it through, and it generally handles it ok.

Some day I guess I have to get a box blade to find out what the hype is all about.... To the original list, I think I'd add: Mower - Some flavor... You're going to have to keep those hay fields cut until you get them all converted over to veg. Plus there's always going to be grass...

Yea... I've got brand new R1's on my JD300, with 2000# of rear counterweight. On ice, it's a pig on skates. Rest of the time it's fabulous.

Simple solution.... Just get another tractor. One keeps the chains, one without. Chains come off in April for me. Way too many significant snow storms in March for it to be any other way.

It may well be the same as the home heating oil. I can't speak to France obviously... However, over here, #2 fuel oil, is diesel, with some different additives, primarily, they put a red dye in it to indicate it isn't for use on the highway. (no road tax applied to it) It burns perfectly well in...

Weight, weight, weight... I hate the price of adding weight, but, that's what works. Nothing is going to replace real chains if you've got ice. I know, you don't want to hurt the pavers, so I'm not going to go too far down this road... My father thought the same thing when he put in the...

Well, I can't speak for anyone else, but it seems to do absolutely nothing at my place in PA. That said, I'm not dealing with a manicured lawn, its a mix of whatever grasses, clover, and other things you find in a wild lawn. Always has done far better than the monoculture lawns I deal with in...

By those rates, I too am way overspreading... If I could develop a little patience, it would be interesting to see if that would work. I know flat out it wouldn't on the really steep area, because it'll melt through, and then run off. Some storms, I've had to apply it a few times to break...

I hate the idea of damaging the paving... After my father put a gorgeous paver driveway in, he took the chains off his tractor, and said never again. That lasted exactly 1 season. The drive I'm working with now was paved back in '92 or 3 I believe, and it's worn badly now. I've got...

Well that escalated quickly... We went from someone wanting to spread a couple bags of salt to multi ton salt/sand users, and brine systems... :D I'm going to tag along because I'm in the same boat... Usually once, or possibly twice a year, I need to do salt/calcium. If the weather isn't...

Well the 250# sure can't hurt... If it still feels squirrely up front, you can always get wheel weights for the front tires.

I can understand it being a budget issue... The Mott flail I just got hangs out about the same our back blade, and rock rake does, so I don't think it would be any more of an issue. That said, if length of implement is an issue, then you may have to look at a drawbar pull product, rather than a...

First thoughts before coffee.... If you can't swing a bush hog around a corner, you might fit with a flail. Plan your trails to be wider than your tractor, and equipment. They're going to grow in on you faster than you think. They will encroach from the sides faster than growing in along the...

Honestly, you look like you're doing a nice job as is. Hitting roots, big rocks, or stumps is going to be an issue on most machines I would think, especially in first break. We've been running in to buried rocks, and dead stopping our 8N since before I was alive. Doesn't seem to care much...

I'll likely sit it on some bearings and see how goofy it is after cleaning it up. If it's bad, I might send it out for balancing. I'm hoping it isn't, but we'll see. I'm sure that would cost more than I really want.

Well, you raise some good points. The goal was to get up and running with a flail, without breaking the bank. No doubt the Mott is old, but it isn't obsolete, and there's nothing wrong with the quality. Quite to the contrary, I imagine the components, and steel are probably far higher quality...

Well, all my parts are in hand currently, except a few shims for the gearbox. Those are on the way. So on to the repair of the rotor... I've got 8 tabs that were either missing, or gouged from previous poor welding to the point I wanted to replace them. After I do those, I have another dozen...

That is perfect. Thanks for taking the time.

That is an intriguing unit. If it could stand up to Rhododendrons, I'd have to seriously consider it to keep our roads from growing in.

Bearings, and even expensive bearings (there are some doozies out there) are a whole lot cheaper than a new implement... Currently doing all the bearings in a new to me Mott flail...

We've got a Haas VF2ss. Mostly I run Aluminum, and Stainless, so getting feeds and speeds right for the PH was a little annoying, plus we just moved to a full 3d software from 2.5, so I was using this as a learning experience. These parts have a lot of play when installed, so this was the...

Well, after some back and forth with Montage, I've got all the parts I need ordered. That includes a new, complete roller, which they didn't blink an eye at providing. I fortunately found most of the gearbox bearings on the shelf at work, so I saved a little there. They're not exotic, so I...

Ok... Rather than getting lost in 700+ pages of the flail thread.... I am 100 miles from my recent purchase... I failed to measure how deep the belt guard is. Mine is missing, and I want to have the correct material with me next time I go out there to knock one out. Planning an 1/8" x ? steel...

We ran many years with a heavy 5' rotary behind an 8N on pretty good hills. Nothing up front other than wheel weights, so something like a 100# per wheel. Would have been nice to have a little more, but it generally felt ok. If you're feeling light, throw something on there, and just add...

This is my guess as well. That output gear is sitting on the housing. Probably very dead bearings under that due to lack of oil. Teeth look ugly, but they would still engage. (and make a further mess)

Leonz - Thanks so much for that. That's the cleanest parts breakout I've seen yet, and actual instructions are a bonus!

I really only need to open the hole on the right side 3/16-1/4". Not much, but there's just no compressing that assembly to make it fit nicely... The PO told me it would smooth out at higher RPM. Seeing the cracks, and missing tabs, I felt I was better pulling it to work on it at work where I...

Got everything apart yesterday. I hope that design has been tweaked a bit for new owners, because getting the gearbox and shaft off the mower was a friggin nightmare. I believe I will be opening up the hole where the input spline passes through the body to make reassembly reasonable. Since I...

Ok... So today I got to check things out. No model number anywhere that I can find. No manufacturer tag. One older dealer tag, but that doesn't help too much. Obviously old since it doesn't include an area code on their phone number. Roller is bent. Bearings are gone. It's a threaded...

Thanks. The 135 can actually take a valve with 3 spools. I've got a 2 spool on it now, but I haven't figured out if I can do 2 remotes or just the one and the 3 point. Still a bit of research on that, but I believe I can do 2. That said, if I do a ditch/bank, I'd likely get another tractor...

The D100 has been around forever... Started with Davis, went to Case, then I believe Aztec Underground, and they sold it down the line someplace else... They're about the stoutest hoe I've run across in that size range. Mine is on the back of my Case 646. Over its life it has beat up that...

Can't argue about the Walker... We just dropped a new engine in it this season (ouch)... It's a nice machine for sure, and the cut is great. My only beef with it is size really. My father has been retired since the mid 90's, and thinks nothing of spending insane amounts of time mowing. (when I...

Well... It's hay field that my family decided was a lawn... There's also a lawn component, but not like a nice suburban lawn... Probably 10 or 12 acres of former fields, and 2 or 3 of lawn. The old fields have been cut for the last decade or so with a 4' finish mower behind an 8N. The lawn...

Mornin' folks... I'm off to check out/purchase a Mott tomorrow... It's a 6' finish cut machine. I'm new to flails, and I generally blame all of you for this, but I kinda had it in my head for years anyway... Should be a nice upgrade from our 4' finish mower... (who buys a 4' mower for behind...

I haven't run across one with wobbles sticks (until I put them on mine), so I can't say if that's normal. I imagine if you can come up with the parts breakout for that particular version it might show something. 'Course, I can't say I've ever run across anything with an X layout. Interesting...