"hard to start"

/ "hard to start" #21  
In my case with an Echo CS370, it's anything over4 pulls. 3 shots with the primer + choke, 2 pulls and it'll pop, push in the choke and 2 more and she's going. Pretty much same with my PAS 266 weedeater and my hedgetrimmer.
I'm guessing that it's largely operator error. Learning what the saw likes (like you described above) in certain temperatures and listening for the first "pop" and generally switching to no choke is really the key. 👍
 
/ "hard to start" #23  
My Stihl MS 170 and 180 take 7 pulls to get the first pop when starting cold and will flood if you miss the pop. One pull to start when warm. My echo trimmer with a primer bulb always starts on the first pull with the choke on. Primer bulbs are a big help.
 
/ "hard to start" #24  
My Stihl MS 170 and 180 take 7 pulls to get the first pop when starting cold and will flood if you miss the pop. One pull to start when warm. My echo trimmer with a primer bulb always starts on the first pull with the choke on. Primer bulbs are a big help.
 
/ "hard to start" #25  
My Stihl MS 170 and 180 take 7 pulls to get the first pop when starting cold and will flood if you miss the pop. One pull to start when warm. My echo trimmer with a primer bulb always starts on the first pull with the choke on. Primer bulbs are a big help.
Carb kit might be needed. Dias get stiff. Also could be tuning issue if not Dias.

My dad's 180 I got it starting in a couple pulls for him.

Also if you dont have the newer green line look for cracking if run ethanol gas. Green ethanol resistant.

Couple carbs I was doing back then.

s180.jpg

s180carbpoulancarb.jpg
 
/ "hard to start" #26  
I don't do a lot of cutting, so I'm no expert. I normally use my saw once or twice a year, to trim limbs. I have an old Craftsman (Poulan) that's almost 20 years old, and it still starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull. I traded for a NIB Husqvarna, with a 20" bar, a couple of years ago. After 7 or 8 pulls, my son-in-law took over. He pulled another 4 or 5 times. We finally got it started; but it has never been easy to start. I sold it, after only using it once! I'm back to the old 16" Craftsman for larger stuff; and a battery powered Greenworks for little stuff.
 
/ "hard to start" #27  
McCollough always one to two pulls, Stills, terrible, Husqvarna similar to the Mac.
My experience when cutting timber for a large company.

If you drain the fuel out after using it then run it dry you wont have problems.
In this throw away society no one takes care of anything.
 
/ "hard to start" #28  
I have 3 Stihl and two Husqvarna chainsaws that I've acquired over the last two decades. They are all different sizes and bought for different reasons. New, they all started easy and ran great. But it seems like every year, after sitting all Winter, they are harder and harder to start.

Eventually it just becomes impossible to start them, and I take them to the shop. I've been to four different repair shops. It could be that they are all bad, or it's me.

Every time, I'm told the same thing. The saw was flooded and I'm not doing it right when trying to start them. At the shop, I have them show me how to start the saw. Choke, pull easy two or three times until you hear the spark start. No choke and pull hard two or three times until it starts. Works every time at the shop. Worked at home the first time or two, and then it's back to pulling and pulling to get it to start. Once running, it's easy to start the rest of the day. But the following week, it's a struggle.

Three years ago I couldn't get anything to start. I read about Echo on here from other guys who had made the switch from Stihl. I had an Echo weed eater that was awesome, so I decided to buy an Echo chainsaw from Home Depot.

In three years, it's been easy to start and it's ran great. For me, easy to start is the most important thing with a chainsaw. A few surprises that I like is see through plastic gas tank that allows me to know how much gas I have in there. The way they tighten the chains is better than Stihl or Husqvarna. That amount of power it has is impressive!!!

I sharpen the chain with a file until it's too stretched to keep tight. I buy three packs of Echo chains from Amazon, and they last a very long time.

I buy the one-gallon cans of premixed 50:1 Husqvarna gasoline for it from Lowes, which is stupid expensive, but it works so I keep buying it.

I burn less than two cords of wood a year. I split it on a 27 ton log splitter with a Honda engine that's over ten years old and starts on the first or second pull. It's super easy to start!!!!

I appreciate everyone that has only had one brand of saw and they have been happy with it. But I would suggest looking at Echo if you ever have issues with that saw and consider changing brands. I think Echo makes the best chainsaws based on owning other brands.
 
/ "hard to start" #29  
I have a husky 55 that has always started after 4 or so pulls. The problem I’ve had the last few years is after it sits for more than a day or so, it pulls over VERY stiff. Like it feels like I could break the rope pulling it over. Once it’s running, it seems to loosen up a bit and pulls over a little better. Had it at the shop a couple years ago and they said it was fine. Weird.
 
/ "hard to start" #31  
Maintenance and I would like to add not knowing your saw...

My saw unless real hot it always need the chock on, for the start up if not it will add a few pull or if its really hot and you try to start it with the chock on.

My saw is pretty consistent with what has been describe above 3 to 4 pull to get the initial start up with the chock on then 2 to 3 pull to get it started... When it take more is when it is has started a few minutes ago it is not warm or cold kind of in between so I your not sure if you should put the chock on or not so that can take a few extra pull...
 
/ "hard to start" #32  
So in a thread guys talk about how there saws are hard to start and i was wondering what does that mean for most people. Anything over three pulls, anything over 6 pulls

In my eyes anything over 4 or 5.

My stihl 261 starts pretty easy.

This topic struck some curiosity in the subject as i have never really contemplated how hard a saw is to start

My dad and grandpa had some poulans when i was a kid. So a few decades ago. one was hard to start and the other wasn't
My Stihl 271 would take many pulls to get it started after sitting. Once it was up and running, the next issue was I never knew if it would start after shutting it off to refuel and fill the bar oil reservoir. Total PITA. That's why I got an Echo 590. Way easier to start cold and hot.
With all the advances in battery drills some one should come up with an adapter to use a battery drill to start small engines like chain saws. After rotator cuff surgery on both shoulders it would be quite welcome for me and many others. Perhaps a factory option on a new saw.
 
/ "hard to start" #33  
So in a thread guys talk about how there saws are hard to start and i was wondering what does that mean for most people. Anything over three pulls, anything over 6 pulls

In my eyes anything over 4 or 5.

My stihl 261 starts pretty easy.

This topic struck some curiosity in the subject as i have never really contemplated how hard a saw is to start

My dad and grandpa had some poulans when i was a kid. So a few decades ago. one was hard to start and the other wasn't
I have two Dolmars.
A 7900 beast and an older 109.
One time the 7900 had simply refused to start.
Turns out when I pulled the cylindrical air cleaner out to clean it, I replaced it upside down. It's closed off on one end LOL.
But no, these two start in one or two pulls.
 
/ "hard to start" #34  
I always heard the later makita dolmars 65-79, they did something to the tank vent because of epa and caused them be prone to flooding.

My older one I owned never had that problem.

I knew guys that sold the newer off becaise it was such a pita for them.

m79016401.JPG
m7900.jpg
 
/ "hard to start" #35  
I always heard the later makita dolmars 65-79, they did something to the tank vent because of epa and caused them be prone to flooding.

My older one I owned never had that problem.

I knew guys that sold the newer off becaise it was such a pita for them.

View attachment 5492708View attachment 5492709
What would be considered later? I have a 6401 and a 6421 (now a 7921) and haven't had any issues with flooding. I think the 6421 was the last iteration of the Dolmar/Makita series.

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/ "hard to start" #36  
As a retired Husqvarna tech I would always set the idle mixture screw to get the best and smoothest idle once the saw was warmed up. If it did not start warm on the first pull I readjusted until it would. For a cold start I would do as the manual suggested, pull the choke on, pull until it popped, pushed the choke off and pull until it started. If trying to start a flooded saw held the throttle wide open and pull until it started.
Never had a problem with anyone starting a saw until an older gentleman came in and after the second no start complaint I started it on the third pull and then asked him to start it. He set it on the floor got in position to start it and pulled plop -----plop------ plop ----plop. I stated to him he needs to pull a faster than that. Well he said I can't, what can I do?
 
/ "hard to start" #37  
What would be considered later? I have a 6401 and a 6421 (now a 7921) and haven't had any issues with flooding. I think the 6421 was the last iteration of the Dolmar/Makita series.

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Not a clue where it started. Do know it was toward the end of times for them. Would have to look it up in their service manuals.
 
/ "hard to start" #38  
@TMGT quick search turned up was carb spring issue in some of them in runs.

From reading old post just a stiffer spring.

CP = Flooding issue has been an intermittent problem throughout the 64-73-79 series.
The fix, from the dealer, has often been to replace the oem spring in your carb with the one in the pic below. This usually takes care of it. I keep a few of these on hand for just this purpose. This is advice I’ve gotten from the oldest Dolmar dealer in the country, and they’ve never steered me wrong.
 
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/ "hard to start" #40  
I think most of the hard start problems is operator induced. Most any engine has a sweet spot that it likes unless it is fuel injected. I have noticed on a lot of the newer saws that if you don't go by the book with start procedure, they are hard to deal with. All my saws I've had over the years I would lay the bar on a log or stump, hold the handle with my left hand with the choke on throttle WFO and pull until it started. My two new saws both Stihls a 261 and a 400c won't start like that. You can pull until you are blue in the face and get nothing out of it.
These two saws you have to pull throttle back while pushing down on the choke lever until it locks then with the saw on the ground chain brake on and pull the cord until it starts, usually about 3 pulls. Once it starts hit the throttle to knock off the choke lever and away, she goes.
With the 400c once it starts especially when it's cold on first start up you have to open the throttle WFO for a few seconds while it goes through the auto tune deal. You will hear and feel it miss fire, pop, spit a few times then it will clear up and wind up to the moon and you are good to go the rest of the day.
I hardly ever read the destructions on anything and this time after the thing failing to start I did. A good thing too because they both would be at the Echo dealer on the trade in shelf. 🫤
 
 
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