L3940 20yr old tires

[okiecraig]

Well, I been on this webpage since I was a hell of a lot younger and could still do everything I wanted to and my tractor tires were new!

My beloved Grand L3940 appears to be in need of new tires. Tread edges worn, corners broken off, cracked sidewalls.... The tires still hold air but I am taking the tractor to Colorado for a spell this summer and the ground surface is covered with glacier cobbles and angular stones.

Any suggestions for new tires? Currently have OEM Titan R4 10-16.5 6PR on the front, 17.5L-24 on the rear. Will this cost me a couple thousand?

 

[dusty3030]

Won’t be cheap but you got your money’s worth. Look at R14’s and do some reading before you make your final decision. A lot has changed in 20 years.

 

[okiecraig]

Won’t be cheap but you got your money’s worth. Look at R14’s and do some reading before you make your final decision. A lot has changed in 20 years.

Holy Smoke! First price check is around $2700 for front and rear set.

 

[RayIN]

Baby needs a new set of shoes. If you think the tractor will outlast new tires, go for it, otherwise consider used tires.

 

[okiecraig]

Baby needs a new set of shoes. If you think the tractor will outlast new tires, go for it, otherwise consider used tires.

Good point. Only 2700 hrs on the tractor, will be mostly mowing now that all the hard work on this property has been done. Might get away with just replacing front tires. Will post photos later today.

 

[drssg]

Maybe this is common knowledge, but my suggestion would be to make sure that the new tires have the type of tread you want (industrial, ag, etc).

I mistakenly thought that the numbers on the tire were a sufficient description of what I wanted. I was only replacing one front tire, and the new one was about 2" taller than the old one. That's because it had ag tread, instead of industrial tread. The tire shop was nice about resolving the misunderstanding.

 

[okiecraig]

Photos of front and rear

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I'd keep driving on those tires.

If they take a beating in Colorado, then consider getting new fronts.

 

[dusty3030]

Well worn set of R4’s. Like I said before you got your money’s worth. If you are spinning wheels/ loosing traction replace them. If not and they are holding air just keep running them. They look solid just worn. You can tube them if you have a leak.

 

[drssg]

I think it's a personal trade off. If you would be bothered by an unplanned tire issue interrupting your work, then I would replace them. If you would rather get as many years as possible out of them, then go with that.

 

[okiecraig]

Thanks for all the replies - good advice, as i expect here. I will start looking for new front tires thru my long-time tire guy and see if I can get a good deal.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

You can tube them if you have a leak.

I'm no fan of tubes, or sealants, but must admit that I've had very good luck with TireJect.

Bring a jug just in case?

 

[Cycledude]

To me it looks like still lots of life left in those tires, I would keep running them.

 

[RayIN]

To me it looks like still lots of life left in those tires, I would keep running them.

Yup! For more wear on the outside edges, I'd drop them 2psi, this also allows the tires to flex more when running over a larger rock, thus reducing potential brusing/ tire damage.

 

[Fallon]

A blow out at 65 is a lot different than a blow out at 5. If it was going to be gnarly unstable conditions I'd consider new tires. But if it's pretty flat & stable running them until they drop won't be a big deal. I've advised one of my clients the same. One tire started leaking & they replaced it. They are fine playing chicken with the other despite it being fairly weather checked.

 

[scootr]

Run them...let CO finish them off it will then get new tires. Those fronts are SS sized tires, very common and not too pricey.

 

[nyone]

Those sidewall cracks are nothing. I had a 1957 ford tractor with far deeper cracks. It did have tubes but I also think the tire chains where keeping the tires together.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

IMHO, this is a common problem with machines that last so long. I went to tubing because it was a lot less money than new tires and "old but serviceable tread" isn't a risk since there's no highway speed use. I had to do my ZTR last year for this reason. Zero wear but some dry rot started to cause leak down. $50 for tubing vs hundreds for new tires. For the BX-22, I did buy new tires years ago...and it was less expensive to buy them on new wheels at the time...but since then, they have also been tubed.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I'd keep them, like I am on my 2005 L5030 ...

I did drop the air pressure from the recommended 30 PSI, down to 20 PSI, mostly to see if it was more comfortable, maybe a little bit better ... I also don't have a loader.

 

[rodneyn]

Photos of front and rear

Keep in mind rubber hardnesses and life is far greater on tractor tires than car tires. Unless they are checked with cracks your pinky will fit in they are good for long time. If you run nail or other sharp edge. They can be tubed and patched. I have seen on one of tractor guy shows a rubber kit to fix cracks. He made it look simple.