rontaki
Veteran Member
"I see", said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw...Guess you never understood the see-saw concept when you were little....
"I see", said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw...Guess you never understood the see-saw concept when you were little....
I can pretty much guarantee that if you put your front tires on scales in both of those scenarios, you'll have more weight on the front tires with the ballast box on the back. Why? Because much of that load in the first picture is still supported by the ground, and when you chain it up and lift it completely off the ground with the ballast box installed, it's cantilevered way out there.Guess you never understood the see-saw concept when you were little....
Maybe true, but who cares? The first scenario, with the tractor nose-dived is not a useable configuration. The reality is that, with a load lifted in the bucket, ballast aft of the rear axle will reduce load on the front.I can pretty much guarantee that if you put your front tires on scales in both of those scenarios, you'll have more weight on the front tires with the ballast box on the back.
Get yourself a 55 gallon plastic barrel and build one filled with cement. Mine weighs just under 1000 pounds.I got it with a dust collector union. It was almost a perfect match but worked fine. Thanks all. Now onto the counterweight search.
I'm replacing a bevel gear seal again and AGAIN I'm running into the problem where I need about 1/64" clearance to get that snap ring installed. I don't know what's holding it up except possibly the seal isn't completely seated. It's about 3 15'16' or 100mm. Nobody seems to make them that large at HF or auto part stores. Anyone have an idea?
I use a hole saw cut block out of 2X pine. Ez to make perfect fit on large wheel bearings.I'm replacing a bevel gear seal again and AGAIN I'm running into the problem where I need about 1/64" clearance to get that snap ring installed. I don't know what's holding it up except possibly the seal isn't completely seated. It's about 3 15'16' or 100mm. Nobody seems to make them that large at HF or auto part stores. Anyone have an idea?
I made one of those for our first tractor. Stick some 3pt pins out the sides and hook out the top. Worked great.Get yourself a 55 gallon plastic barrel and build one filled with cement. Mine weighs just under 1000 pounds.
Holy crap. I have spondylitis in my L5. If I do too much heavy lifting my lower back gets a bit sore. I hope your's stays good. I put a Cat 1 drawbar thru the barrel. I welded a 2 x 2 box in place for the upright. Off the bottom of the drawbar I welded a 2" trailer tongue out the back. The top bar got cut open for my toplink. It already had holes in it for the toplink.I made one of those for our first tractor. Stick some 3pt pins out the sides and hook out the top. Worked great.
It fell over once while sitting in the sand on our property. I managed to sit it upright by hand. Apparently, I was young, strong, and stupid 30+ years ago.Now I'm just stupid.
My spine hardware two days ago.... and my belt buckle, zipper and button for scale!
This is 1 year after surgery. Doctor says no need to return, all looks well. Keep up the exercise and have a nice life. Pretty grateful for the outcome.
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