Would You Buy Another BX?

[Little Red Tractor]

I'll add one more comment that reinforces the rest. A neighbor has both a BX, 26 horse, and a L, 35-ish horse. He gets plenty of work out of both of them without any complaints. My B 2301 is right for me, but the BX might do some of my chores a bit better. If I had the resources and variety of needs to justify two tractors, I'd do about the same thing.

 

[drssg]

DRSSG, I surprised you had problems. MY Kubota L35TLB has been bullet proof for 1800 hrs, other than replacing a few hydraulic hoses. Recently, I'm having issues with leaking hydraulic cylinders on both the loader and backhoe. That said, she's 24 years old and hoses/seals weather so that's expected. Mine is a different drive system, Glide Shift, not sure if that's a valid difference. This winter I'll be contemplating having all the cylinders repacked vs buying a new unit. Question: were you using OEM hydraulic fluid and motor oil? My neighbor literally beats the hell out of his 60hp Kubota, he hasn't had any problems that I know of. I asked him if he uses UD-2 hydraulic fluid, I think Kubota charges a "premium" price for their fluids. He commented "oil's-oil" so I'm sure de doesn't. I stayed with the UD-2 because my Glide Shift Transmission and Hydraulic system use the same fluid & reservoir. I never felt comfortable second guessing the transmission fluid requirements. I know it's a very
highly debated topic and I'm not trying to go there, just wondering?

I use Kubota SUDT transmission oil and Kubota engine oil. I do suspect that Kubota charges a premium for their fluids, but in the grand scheme of things, I couldn't save that much money per year to try to find something cheaper.

 

[drssg]

….once those “Piston Shafts” get “Scored” there’s nothing you can do……kniflin pins are sure to fail next!

BN

As I said, I don't remember exactly what they said, as to why the engine needed to be replaced. My terminology could be nonsense, as I suspect you are implying.

They had the engine substantially disassembled, and I remember $8000. That was the most important detail to me.

 

[bgr]

A couple of thoughts on your BX purchase. Unless you need the width, 54 inch decks are lighter and easier to get on and off. 60 inch decks are pretty heavy and will need to be taken off on a cement floor so you can roll it out, if you don't want to struggle. Having a loader on the tractor to lift the front will help.
Higher HP is something you won't regret especially if you want to run a leaf collector. Kubota makes an excellent 3 bag collection system for the BX series. Usually you can find them used for sale online in good condition. They have a very good blower.
A mulching kit is another option unless you have something like heavy oak leaves. I run a factory mulch kit on a ZG227-54 zero turn mower. I have run it for 12 years on my lawn and mulch all leaves. After 13 years and no fertilizer, the lawn is much greener with more grass and fewer weeds. The Kubota mulch kit is a permanent install. Have to pull the deck and change baffles, as well as change blades to go back to regular. If you mow a wet lawn, the mulching deck will plug up completely in about 20 minutes and is a bear to clean out. So I tend to stay with mulching and work with the weather. You will definitely want the higher HP to run the mulch deck.
As others have commented, the two fuel filters with one directly over the mower makes the fuel filter set up not idea. Two speed hydro limits road speed a bit. I do most mowing and loader work in range 1.
I have an L35TLB, too. Used in business, 4500 hours so far. Always used Kubota UDT, which is not synthetic. I don't want to switch to synthetic SUDT now, so I use a high quality name brand equivalent which labels itself as meeting UDT specs. Engine oil for the L35 has always been Shell Rotella 15-40. The BX has gotten UDT, too. SUDT is a little thin for a machine built to run non synthetic UDT. But a new machine might do fine with SUDT.
I don't know the engine oil spec for the new BX series. If it is 10-30, I would run 10-40 synthetic to give you some margin if you work it hard. I change oil yearly or at 150 hours, a little earlier than the specs.

 

[Keuka]

Well thanks again to all of you for your time and effort helping me sort things out. I just bought the BX 2360, R14 Tires - Rim Guard Loaded, Front Loader with Quick Attach Bucket, 60" MMM Deck and winter plug in heater.

 

[Eagle1]

Well thanks again to all of you for your time and effort helping me sort things out. I just bought the BX 2360, R14 Tires - Rim Guard Loaded, Front Loader with Quick Attach Bucket, 60" MMM Deck and winter plug in heater.

Hope it serves you has well as mine has. Just remember smaller bites but will keep on keeping on.

 

[Keuka]

Well if need be, I still have my old JD!

 

[tacticalturnip]

Ask if the dealer will toss in a ballast box, you'll want something off the 3 point to offset the loader.

Excellent choice though.

 

[dodge man]

Yes get a ballast box. Also check the fluid level in the front axle after a few hours of use, they are known for being low. Congrats on the buy!

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Yes get a ballast box. Also check the fluid level in the front axle after a few hours of use, they are known for being low. Congrats on the buy!

And ... Drain and CHANGE the front axle fluid at or before 50 hours!

There is no filter up there, and you will be amazed at the crud you get out of it that first time, after that, go back to the recommended intervals if you want too, I generally do half that though ...