Anyone make a ratcheting wrench for a cat 1 top link?

[Shawn T. W.]

I’m not sure how any of this would work with my jam nut as I need the nut to keep my link from turning.

What if you could just put a bungee on one side of the wheel (through a spoke or hole) and hold it so it can't turn?

If the wheel is stationary, and both ends are pinned, it should stay in adjustment ...

 

[OzzyDaveO]

I have a Massey GC1715 compact tractor. I would like to make it easier to adjust my top link. I can’t afford to add rear hydraulics and I’m getting too old to keep struggling to adjust it with my hand. The link doesn’t have a pin drilled through it to spin the link, it just has a u shaped hole on the side of it. The OD of the movable link is approximately 1-1/4”. I was thinking of getting a ratcheting gear wrench to put over the link or even a manual ratcheting pipe thread head wrench but not sure how to attach it, that is if I can find one to fit.
It would be nice if I could take the handle off while not in use.
I’m worried about harming the ratchet if I weld it to the link. I don’t know, maybe it would be ok?
I did sorta find something on line but I didn’t want to drill a hole through my link.
Has anyone done this before or have a better or easier idea?

r

 

[OzzyDaveO]

I have done a ton of shaft straightening for work. If you have a hydraulic press then it is pretty easy. Support the threaded shaft with vee blocks made from aluminum. Saw the vee blocks out of 3/4 or 1 inch aluminum plate. Use another piece of aluminum between the ram end and the threaded shaft. The threads will embed into the aluminum and will not be damaged. Especially the very coarse threads you will be dealing with.
Eric

find the centre & drill 1/2" or 5/8" hole squarely all the way thru (mark & flip it if you dont have long enough bit)
Slide in 2' ength(or whatever floats your boat) round or reo bar to suit the holes size. Fully weld in place on both sides. Paint it massey grey. Refit when dry

PS: make sure the threaded sections are removed before you drill

Cheapest option and as good as any you will buy - make sure it clears your PTO in the full down position

 

[Utopia Texas]

Go to a yard sale and pay $5 for a large used pipe wrench.

 

[tjandrews]

Why not just go buy a new top link and forget about modifying yours? Harbor Freight sells them, as does TSC, Rural King and every tractor supply store.

+1.
Too many implements here - mower, snowblower, sprayer, tiller, moldboard plow, and a couple of others. Also, three tractors that could be used, though the old Case doesn't work so well with implements that weren't designed for an Eagle Hitch.

Each one needs a different adjustment of the top link, some widely different. Best solution for us was to put a top link from Tractor Supply on each implement. That way, not only do we not need to make quite so many adjustments, we don't have to find a way to keep a top link that's attached to the tractor out of the way when it's not being used.

 

[Joe Batt]

Why not just go buy a new top link and forget about modifying yours? Harbor Freight sells them, as does TSC, Rural King and every tractor supply store.

I found just buying a new top link was good enough for me, because the new one turned so much easy than the original.

 

[dannyojudd]

I have a Massey GC1715 compact tractor. I would like to make it easier to adjust my top link. I can’t afford to add rear hydraulics and I’m getting too old to keep struggling to adjust it with my hand. The link doesn’t have a pin drilled through it to spin the link, it just has a u shaped hole on the side of it. The OD of the movable link is approximately 1-1/4”. I was thinking of getting a ratcheting gear wrench to put over the link or even a manual ratcheting pipe thread head wrench but not sure how to attach it, that is if I can find one to fit.
It would be nice if I could take the handle off while not in use.
I’m worried about harming the ratchet if I weld it to the link. I don’t know, maybe it would be ok?
I did sorta find something on line but I didn’t want to drill a hole through my link.
Has anyone done this before or have a better or easier idea?

I try to do things simple so I use a 3/8 length of chain. Loop at the tractor and chain with H (with 2 pins) to adjust length depending on attachment. I bent a couple of links mowing ditches and steep banks. Since utility tractors don't have down force the "link" doesn't have to be rigid. The chain runs thru where the link would attach and doubles back on itself for length adjustment. The H connector has cotter pins to allow easy adjusting chain length when changing from finish mower to scraper blade to boom pole. I've painted the chain link for each attachment so there's no guessing length for separate attachments. ..

 

[tassmannn]

Not as cheap but easier, if you have aux hyd.

VEVOR Hydraulic Top Link Cat.1-1 (11 in, 20-7/8~31-7/8 in ), Hydraulic Cylinder with 2 Hoses & G3/8" Check Valve | VEVOR US

VEVOR Hydraulic Top Link for Cat.1-1 tractors offers powerful 3.5-ton pushing force, high-sealing check valve, and easy installation for heavy-duty tasks.

www.vevor.com

This thing is pretty cool, and not too pricey, and I have a spare SCV in the back, so it would be perfect. I'll post a picture once I get it installed.

 

[AaronD81]

I have one of these, and with the euro end links it's really east to switch implements. No jamb nut or tools needed to adjust.

MF Top Link (cat 1) 17-1/4

This is a replacement top link category 1 top link. This body has a length of 17-1/4 inches and closed body of 23-1/4 inches. This can extend out to 29-9/16.

www.agrisupply.com

 

[Haneyman]

Here’s a ratchet kit that’s made to pin on a top link. View attachment 4302641

Anyone know where I can find this?
Very interesting!
Thanks,Mike