Looking for recommendations and advice for my first Post Hole Digger

[Spanky100]

I am looking for my first post hole digger to use on my Kioti CK27 HST. Sadly tractor does not have any front end loader hydraulic attachment provisions or any rear remotes so will limit me to a rear 3 point PTO digger. Engine HP is 28 with from memory 20.5 PTO HP.

Initial use will be to dig (30) 12 inch diameter holes to a 42 or 48 inch depth. Location is clay soil with likely some small rocks (less that 3 inch diameter) and small tree roots (the two trees in the area are maple 14 foot tall and 10 inch diameter at base). This will not be an expected high use piece of equipment for me. Expect casual use every few years. Possible next use would be for a smaller poll barn in a years. A few tree holes for new plants and mailbox post from time to time.

(I considered renting a 2 person gas trimmer but two reasons make this not a desirable option. 1) hole dig phase will likely be spread over 5 weeks so rental cost gets high and 2) I am concerned the 2 person hand held hole diggers will be more than I can handle at my mature phase. Son is capable but I think he would be covering too much for me and have to over do physically for himself)

Now looking for recommendations, advise, and help from this group.

My first thought is the Tractor Supply Company (TSC) Country Line 3 point post hole digger (item 1353114) for 18HP to 100HP Tractors. Current sale price is $585 USD with a 12 inch auger adding $153 = $738 total before tax. It has a 3 year warranty so suspect basically if the gearbox, 3 point shaft, or weld fails you might have some support. From my review of the still in shipping box at TSC store it looks to be a light duty post hole digger intended for casual low use.

What other options would the group suggest.
Again this would be my first post hole digger. I have never use one myself so I am looking for any help. I would love to get the heavy duty piece of equipment but my expected use does not support an expensive unit.

Thanks and best regards

Spanky100

 

[CH4Ohio]

I think the cheapest PHD from TSC or Rural King is what I'd recommend. Your tractor isn't going to tear it up due to being over-powered.

Do your holes have to be 12" diameter? Do they have to be 48" deep? You'll find that it's fairly easy to screw an auger into the ground. BUT, it takes a lot to pull it out once you bury it. You'll need to be careful to only go a few inches and keep pulling it out of the hole to keep the hole cleared out and to keep from burying it. You'll still get it hung up now and then. The bigger the auger bit, the more this is an issue.

I'm also wondering if your tractor will have the height to dig a 4' hole.

Either way, get the cheapest one at the local farm supply and go slow till you get the hang of it. I'd pick whichever color you like best.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Meant to add -- Good decision on NOT getting the 2-person auger. Those things can be killers.

 

[AntiqueIron]

What about renting a skid steer and a post hole auger on that?

I’m not a fan of 3 point PHDs.

You’d probably have all your work done with a loader mount (tractor or skid steer) in less than 6 hours.

You could also see about renting a 3 point hydraulic power pack, but I’d worry those are hard to come by.

 

[BlueKnife]

(the two trees in the area are maple 14 foot tall and 10 inch diameter at base).

That's got to be a wild looking tree. I've never seen a maple that short but that big at the base, unless it broke off. You'll want to stay away from that as much as possible.

What other options would the group suggest.

Get everything prepped ahead of time and rent a mini skid steer. It'll be tens of times (at least) as fast as a little 3 point auger and far less frustrating. 30 12 inch holes should take less than an hour or two, as long as there aren't too many rocks and roots to deal with. For your pole barn, the holes should be at least 18", probably more like 2', which is more than a little 3 point auger on a 20 ish HP machine should be doing, so you'd need to rent a bigger machine for that anyway.

 

[404nouser]

With a little thought one could purchase a hydraulic selector valve and rig up a diverter setup.

manual valve
Some fittings and hoses then have a cheap manual setup.

 

[etpm]

I bought the PHD from Tractor Supply that you are talking about. I already had the auger. I have used it a bunch to drill holes up to 48 inches deep. I use mine mainly for planting trees. Way easier than a shovel where I live. We have lotsa rocks and the auger just pulls them up. I am using a Yanmar YM2310 tractor to drive the PHD. It has 23 HP at the PTO. I have had to back the auger out twice by hand using a pipe wrench. Being smart for once I turned off the tractor both times before unscrewing the auger. No sense getting all wrapped up around an auger or PTO shaft. Anyway, I have drilled many holes and expect to drill many more with my setup.
Eric

 

[Spanky100]

I think the cheapest PHD from TSC or Rural King is what I'd recommend. Your tractor isn't going to tear it up due to being over-powered.

Do your holes have to be 12" diameter? Do they have to be 48" deep? You'll find that it's fairly easy to screw an auger into the ground. BUT, it takes a lot to pull it out once you bury it. You'll need to be careful to only go a few inches and keep pulling it out of the hole to keep the hole cleared out and to keep from burying it. You'll still get it hung up now and then. The bigger the auger bit, the more this is an issue.

I'm also wondering if your tractor will have the height to dig a 4' hole.

Either way, get the cheapest one at the local farm supply and go slow till you get the hang of it. I'd pick whichever color you like best.

CH4Ohio

My first use will be for installing vinyl 6 foot high stockade fencing at my Daughter's house and the instructions call for a 42 inch depth with a 10 inch diameter. So likely would benefit from your input and get the smaller 10 inch diameter auger.

The CK27 HST (same frame series as CK30/35) is a compact and I believe sized like the current Kioti CK3520/4020 so I suspect it will be just large large enough in height for a 4 foot hole. Will take some measurements with 3 point up and with post hole digger to be sure.

Thanks for mentioning Rural King as there is one 18 miles away so will look at them as well. Since my Kioti is the "other orange" tractor they might even have a matching orange PHD as TCS Country Line is Yellow. (my box blade and flail mower are orange so I should stay implement color coordinated ).

Appreciate your input. Thanks

 

[Spanky100]

What about renting a skid steer and a post hole auger on that?

I’m not a fan of 3 point PHDs.

You’d probably have all your work done with a loader mount (tractor or skid steer) in less than 6 hours.

You could also see about renting a 3 point hydraulic power pack, but I’d worry those are hard to come by.

AntiqueIron

I like the idea of digging all holes at the same time and using a half day rental but my soon to be SIL's Father installed the same style fence in the past and did that. Sadly his Father did not keep the spacing correct the further out from hole number one.

I am trying to let my soon to be SIL be the project manager but this a challenge for me not to be the lead dog. Added goal for me is to let the next generation learn and start taking the lead. He is a good kid (engineer) but does not have many years of learning from doing and tends to be a little stubborn. So that plan was kicked out. I glad my son will also be helping and has much experience with this this type of work.

Plus Daughter said she would buy her dad (me) the POD with her fence funds since she is not have to pay for labor. The fence company quotes were over almost three times the material costs. I can always use a new piece of equipment (toy).

Thanks for your input. It was my initial plan

 

[Spanky100]

With a little thought one could purchase a hydraulic selector valve and rig up a diverter setup.

manual valve
Some fittings and hoses then have a cheap manual setup.

404nouser
That is a good point but I am planning to get my lovely wife a larger tractor in the future with a cab and front grapple iso will need to purchase with hydraulic at front and rear.

So will not add to this older tractor

 

[Spanky100]

I bought the PHD from Tractor Supply that you are talking about. I already had the auger. I have used it a bunch to drill holes up to 48 inches deep. I use mine mainly for planting trees. Way easier than a shovel where I live. We have lotsa rocks and the auger just pulls them up. I am using a Yanmar YM2310 tractor to drive the PHD. It has 23 HP at the PTO. I have had to back the auger out twice by hand using a pipe wrench. Being smart for once I turned off the tractor both times before unscrewing the auger. No sense getting all wrapped up around an auger or PTO shaft. Anyway, I have drilled many holes and expect to drill many more with my setup.
Eric

eptm

Appreciate your experience with the TCS PDD. I do plan to use it to add small trees and looking forward to not using a shovel as in the past.

Good point about having to back out the auger so will include my pipe wrench and matching extension pipe to be prepared.

Fully agree with power off when you are manually engaging any PTO equipment. I now always do a safety briefing with my kids and grandkids including showing the PTO shaft safety sticker showing the person wrapped around the PTO shaft.

Thanks.

 

[CH4Ohio]

CH4Ohio

My first use will be for installing vinyl 6 foot high stockade fencing at my Daughter's house and the instructions call for a 42 inch depth with a 10 inch diameter. So likely would benefit from your input and get the smaller 10 inch diameter auger.

I'd still get the 12" auger. More bang for the buck. The extra width will come in handy for transplanting potted plants, trees, etc. I was just pointing out that it's easy to get the auger hung up so you need to do quite a bit of up-and-down to keep the hole open and prevent that. Once it's screwed into the ground, you'll find your 3-point won't just lift it out.

 

[EddieWalker]

I think the best value for your money is the Countryline auger from Tractor Supply. The auger has replaceable teeth and digging tip. I've been using it for well over a decade now. It's my third auger, and by far the best for digging my red clay soil. Tractor Supply is terrible at keeping the teeth and tip in stock, but so far, I've been able to get them on Amazon.

I've done close to 1,400 feet of viny three rail fencing with it every 8 feet, and another 5,000 feet of horse fencing with wood posts at least every 100 feet, with some a lot closer. And also all my fencing for my dogs around my house, plus trees that my wife wanted and other things like a barn and light posts.

In my experience, getting the holes in a straight line is just about impossible with a 3 point auger. They start where you want them, but they angle or wonder off a little as you go down. All my holes are 3 feet deep. That's as far as I can get it to go with my tractors, and I've never needed them any deeper. Once the holes are dug, you will need a good clam shell digger to clean them up, and also dig the sides of the hole to get it lined up with the others. Expect to do this a lot when doing a straight fence with posts every 8 feet!!!! Roots and rocks will move a hole every time.

I started out with a 38hp tractor, and now it's on a 65hp tractor. The 38hp tractor had plenty of power to drill the holes, but not enough to pull it back out if it buried itself. I use a 36 inch pipe wrench to unscrew them, but I also have a length of 2 inch pipe that I put over the handle to get more leverage when it's really buried. Expect to ruin your entire day when you bury the auger!!! The 65hp tractor doesn't have this problem. Something that I came up with to help with the smaller tractor burying the auger was a set of blocks to stop it from going down any farther while using it. Once they gear box hits the wood, it stops digging and then it spins in the hole, breaking itself free.



I also have a 6 inch auger that I thought would be easier to do some metal pipes in the ground. But it got buried faster than the 12 inch auger, and it was so annoying that I threw it away. I never used it on my bigger tractor, but in all reality, there was never a need or use for the smaller auger. It's a lot easier to fill in a hole then it is to make it bigger after it's been drilled.

 

[Spanky100]

I'd still get the 12" auger. More bang for the buck. The extra width will come in handy for transplanting potted plants, trees, etc. I was just pointing out that it's easy to get the auger hung up so you need to do quite a bit of up-and-down to keep the hole open and prevent that. Once it's screwed into the ground, you'll find your 3-point won't just lift it out.

CH4Ohio

Good point as the 12 inch diameter auger is not much more cost and for the most likely future of tree planting will be better sized.

I am glad you pointed out the potential for needing to back out the auger manually if it gets stuck. Now I will have my large pipe wrench on-site if needed.

Thanks

 

[Spanky100]

I think the best value for your money is the Countryline auger from Tractor Supply. The auger has replaceable teeth and digging tip. I've been using it for well over a decade now. It's my third auger, and by far the best for digging my red clay soil. Tractor Supply is terrible at keeping the teeth and tip in stock, but so far, I've been able to get them on Amazon.

I've done close to 1,400 feet of viny three rail fencing with it every 8 feet, and another 5,000 feet of horse fencing with wood posts at least every 100 feet, with some a lot closer. And also all my fencing for my dogs around my house, plus trees that my wife wanted and other things like a barn and light posts.

In my experience, getting the holes in a straight line is just about impossible with a 3 point auger. They start where you want them, but they angle or wonder off a little as you go down. All my holes are 3 feet deep. That's as far as I can get it to go with my tractors, and I've never needed them any deeper. Once the holes are dug, you will need a good clam shell digger to clean them up, and also dig the sides of the hole to get it lined up with the others. Expect to do this a lot when doing a straight fence with posts every 8 feet!!!! Roots and rocks will move a hole every time.

I started out with a 38hp tractor, and now it's on a 65hp tractor. The 38hp tractor had plenty of power to drill the holes, but not enough to pull it back out if it buried itself. I use a 36 inch pipe wrench to unscrew them, but I also have a length of 2 inch pipe that I put over the handle to get more leverage when it's really buried. Expect to ruin your entire day when you bury the auger!!! The 65hp tractor doesn't have this problem. Something that I came up with to help with the smaller tractor burying the auger was a set of blocks to stop it from going down any farther while using it. Once they gear box hits the wood, it stops digging and then it spins in the hole, breaking itself free.

View attachment 4239651

I also have a 6 inch auger that I thought would be easier to do some metal pipes in the ground. But it got buried faster than the 12 inch auger, and it was so annoying that I threw it away. I never used it on my bigger tractor, but in all reality, there was never a need or use for the smaller auger. It's a lot easier to fill in a hole then it is to make it bigger after it's been drilled.

Eddie

Appreciate your input from what you have experienced (you have put many feet of fence in for sure).

This project is a combination of vinyl fencing 8 foot on center (6 foot high) and chain link fencing for the daughters dog.

I will bring the clam shell digger to get the final dirt out of the hole. Also the timber sections for a positive stop on the depth. Also the pipe wrench and extension pipe that you and CH4Ohio have pointed out for manually backing out stuck auger. Good to know replacement parts are also available on Amazon.

Thanks for you information.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I use a Danuser auger and I think they are among the best, but they are quite proud of them so for limited home owner use the others should be fine.

I have used the BX2660 to power my 24 inch bit in a pinch and it worked just fine in clay/small rock soil so you should be OK power wise.

Make sure you call Miss Utility even if you are sure there are no wires or pipes where you are working. It's free and covers you if something happens that they missed.

 

[rswyan]

Be aware that TSC offers 12 inch augers in both 36" and 48" lengths.

I have the 12" in 36", along with 6" and 24" diameter auger bits (also 36" length)

Wish I had gotten the 12" in 48".

FWIW, I've found that sticking the 6" diameter auger here in our clay soil is a lot easier than sticking the 2 larger ones. And when it gets stuck it is really stuck.

Make sure to lift all of them often to clear the spoils in the flighting.

 

[leonz]

Do not waste your time with a standard auger, purchase the
smallest tree transplanting auger it will dig and dig and not
get hung up because it drills a tapered hole in the soil.

 

[rswyan]

Do not waste your time with a standard auger, purchase the
smallest tree transplanting auger it will dig and dig and not
get hung up because it drills a tapered hole in the soil.

Seems like reasonable advice ... if all he was doing was doing was transplanting trees.

But he's not ...

 

[leonz]

Think of it just like a metal drilling bit with a tapered end.

The tapered holes he would be drilling in the soil eliminate
friction and binding entirely as he uses a tree transplanting
auger.