Wood floor over concrete?

[etpm]

We are finally, after nearly 20 years, finishing our basement. Our house proper has 3/4" maple floors. They are beautiful and I don't want the basement to look cheap by comparison. So I'm thinking maple floors once again in the basement. But the existing floor is concrete and I don't know that I can lay wood right on top of concrete. I'm wondering about some sort of thinner maple floating floor on some sort of padding. Anybody here have any pointers?
Thanks a bunch,
Eric

 

[Topzide]

Dricore subfloor panels is an option. Put them down, then flooring on them.
[URLdricore.com/products/dricore_subfloor][/URL]

 

[oldnslo]

Have you ever had any moisture problems in the basement like floors sweating? If yes you will need to control the humidity for a floor covering to last.

 

[KennyG]

You need to verify the concrete is dry by laying down some plastic, waiting a while and seeing if there is any moisture coming through the concrete. In any event, I think you will want some type of insulation to keep the floor from being cold and having a lot of temperature cycles. I've used dricore and it's great but you'll get into a lot of cost to do a large area. I think a basement would be better with engineered hardwood or vinyl than maple. I have bamboo (which is an engineered product) in my basement over an insulating pad and it's worked very well for the last 15 years or so.

 

[yomax4]

I used rolls of under layment called DMX that is like small egg carton pattern 3/8" thick. It breathes. Then laminate flooring over it.. Been flawless.

 

[Carl_NH]

Agree with KennyG - moisture will ruin a good wood floor. If your mostly on a sand base and a walk out basement that isn't damp or does not sweat in the summer, and you don't have water issues today, and have a low point you can keep open it's ok to install a floor.

Plastic moisture barrier, then a PT 1x flat with 1" pink insulation, then 3/4 plywood, then a tarpaper or rosin then flooring.

If damp, you can consider other materials - tile that looks like wood etc. may be a better choice but its cold its a challenge

 

[Colin1960]

Dricore subfloor panels is an option. Put them down, then flooring on them.
[URLdricore.com/products/dricore_subfloor][/URL]

This is every expensive. You get the same thing by putting down this. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dm...et-6-inch-foundation-wrap-complete/1000796613 and putting down 3/4 osb in 4x8 sheets. Much much cheaper. Less than 1/2

 

[Racer4]

If you want real wood, the dricore is the way to go with wood over top of it. Keep in mind, you need to keep it somewhat climate controlled, or you will have expansion problems.

If you get too many layers (foam, plywood, tar paper, flooring) it’s going to trap moisture. BTDT.
I’d recommend vinyl plank flooring right over the concrete with a moisture barrier. No need to ever worry about moisture, rot, or mold.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I would lay these first that's what they are for, they are no cheep but they cut humidity right out plus if there's minor leak water doesn't touch any wood surface.

 

[D&D]

We are finally, after nearly 20 years, finishing our basement. Our house proper has 3/4" maple floors. They are beautiful and I don't want the basement to look cheap by comparison. So I'm thinking maple floors once again in the basement. But the existing floor is concrete and I don't know that I can lay wood right on top of concrete. I'm wondering about some sort of thinner maple floating floor on some sort of padding. Anybody here have any pointers?
Thanks a bunch,
Eric

IMO, I would install radiant floor first then (IMO preferably floating) an engineered maple floor.

 

[etpm]

Wow, lotsa stuff to think about. The existing floor is always dry. There is no moisture coming up from below. When the slab was poured a moisture barrier was put down first over sand. The basement is the daylight type so we have two large windows and a pair of french doors leading outside. The basement is cool year 'round so I imagine the floor is too. I didn't even consider in-floor heating. I'll need to think about that. We will have oriental rugs on the floor like we do upstairs. But of course they don't cover all the floor. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice folks!
Eric

 

[2manyrocks]

Concrete could be stained or you could install ceramic tile over the concrete, but I don't know if tile would properly bond if the concrete has ever been stained.

Concrete can feel dry to the touch, but actually be wet underneath. You really need to know what your moisture situation is because it can make a wood floor pop and buckle.

 

[mikester]

I did a floating engineered wood floor over concrete. Use a good quality underlay. No problems, warm and dry...then again my insulated concrete floor was dry to start with.

Put a sheet of plastic and something covering it on your floor somewhere for at least a week. If you lift up the plastic and see a dark spot where the plastic was you may have a moisture or dampness issue to worry about.

 

[etpm]

I did a floating engineered wood floor over concrete. Use a good quality underlay. No problems, warm and dry...then again my insulated concrete floor was dry to start with.

Put a sheet of plastic and something covering it on your floor somewhere for at least a week. If you lift up the plastic and see a dark spot where the plastic was you may have a moisture or dampness issue to worry about.

Thanks for that. A good test. I'll try a few spots.
Eric

 

[rsizem]

We are finally, after nearly 20 years, finishing our basement. Our house proper has 3/4" maple floors. They are beautiful and I don't want the basement to look cheap by comparison. So I'm thinking maple floors once again in the basement. But the existing floor is concrete and I don't know that I can lay wood right on top of concrete. I'm wondering about some sort of thinner maple floating floor on some sort of padding. Anybody here have any pointers?
Thanks a bunch,
Eric

I have an slab ranch. As long as you have the ceiling height and since you have an underslab vapor retarder, you can utilize my approach. lay 1 or 2 inch eps foam (25psi compression capacity) edge to edge leaving 1/2 at perimeter. Next layer of 23/32 advantech sub flooring...again edge to edge is fine (no reason to engage the tongue and groove)...make sure the edges do not align with foam edges, again leave 1/2 to walls (perimeter). One more layer of advantech, make sure edges don't align to previous layer of advantech. Now screw layers of advantech together. One complete you can install nailed tongue/groove wood flooring or any type of floating floor. I've had approx 1000sq ft of maple tongue/groove installed for years here in the mid west in a conditioned shop w/ heavy equipment...no issues. Addt'l 2000 sq ft of floating floor with multiple rooms (floating transitions between rooms) and no issues. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[dnw64]

Put a sheet of plastic and something covering it on your floor somewhere for at least a week. If you lift up the plastic and see a dark spot where the plastic was you may have a moisture or dampness issue to worry about.

Yes, and. Tape the edges down.

If the concrete is dry, you can do a full trowel glue down directly to the concrete. However, note that 3/4" maple has an R-Value of about 0.55. Less than single strength glass. So if the floor is cold now, it will always be (the oriental rugs may suffice for you).

For living space, I personally would put down 2x2 sleepers with 1-1/2" XPS foam between and put the solid maple directly over that.

(I am a wood floor manufacturer)

 

[nacl9163]

I used DriCore panels over a decade ago--never any problem. They allow air flow under the floor, don't wick moisture (if any), and insulate. Plus, they are a DIY project. All you need is a circular saw, a. large square, a tape and a pencil. I put carpet over mine. Highly recommend!!

 

[dnw64]

Dricore is great for carpet or tile, but if you are planning to put solid wood, nailed down, there isn't enough meat to hold it. JMO.

 

[D&D]

Yes, and. Tape the edges down.

If the concrete is dry, you can do a full trowel glue down directly to the concrete. However, note that 3/4" maple has an R-Value of about 0.55. Less than single strength glass. So if the floor is cold now, it will always be (the oriental rugs may suffice for you).

For living space, I personally would put down 2x2 sleepers with 1-1/2" XPS foam between and put the solid maple directly over that.

(I am a wood floor manufacturer)

And how would you adjust the existing door frames? Most doors don't have ~2.5" to spare.

 

[mikester]

Yes, and. Tape the edges down.

If the concrete is dry, you can do a full trowel glue down directly to the concrete. However, note that 3/4" maple has an R-Value of about 0.55. Less than single strength glass. So if the floor is cold now, it will always be (the oriental rugs may suffice for you).

For living space, I personally would put down 2x2 sleepers with 1-1/2" XPS foam between and put the solid maple directly over that.

(I am a wood floor manufacturer)

R value of 0.55 struck me as a little low and I looked up some reference values

https://www.ahfc.us/iceimages/manuals/building_manual_ap_1.pdf

Hardwood Flooring 0.91 per inch or 0.68 (3/4 inch)
Single Glass 0.91

Perception and memory is funny!