Checklist for receiving new tractor

[thebmrust]

I bought a new 2025 TYM T25 TLB last week. Just waiting for the shop to button it up and deliver it Monday, OR I can get it myself when it’s ready this week.

That being said, does anyone have a checklist for NEW tractor delivery?

Something relatively thorough, but not NASA Pre-Flight level.

 

[ArlyA]

Grease gun and plan fun projects.

 

[ptsg]

Tractors, depending on the size, typically arrive to the country in a crate, just like the picture below. In some cases, the front axle is not even attached to the tractor.

The final assembly is done at either the importer or at the dealer and after read loads of threads over the years, it seems like when stuff comes loose, it's exactly the parts that the dealers/importer touched.

With this info in mind, check everything that the dealer and/or importer touched. All the bolts for the front axle pivot point, loader mounts, wheels, backhoe mounts, etc.

Check all the fluids. All of them. Grab the grease gun and give a couple of pumps on all the grease fittings. Spray some lube at the linkages as this is often overlooked. Check tire pressures.

Everything on a tractor will be metric, so get some metric wrenches ready. Up to 30 mm I would say.

This applies to any brand and I'm sure I'm missing some stuff but other posters will more likely mention it.

This is how these tractors arrived at the importer, which is about 10 or so miles from me.

 

[oldnslo]

PTSG covers the bases well. I would also suggest double checking all the fasteners after a few hours of use since occasionally things need to settle in.

 

[workinonit]

Wheels especially. They will loosen some after it's run a while.

 

[Roadworthy]

For the wheels and the loader you will probably need a larger torque wrench if you don't already have one - probably going to 200 pounds or more. Check the torque specs for your tractor.

 

[RjCorazza]

At the risk of repeating some areas to look at :
- wheel lug nuts, check again after 10 hours or so
- SAA for frontend loader and mount
- grease all points. Check the manual and get them ALL
- Check all fluids
- Check tire pressures
- Check all hydraulics hose connections for tightness / leaks

 

[DynamicD]

check loader frame bolts and wheel bolts every 25 hours.... Eyeball them every use just in case, you can usually tell if one has backed out.

 

[rumwrks]

Eyeball them every use just in case, you can usually tell if one has backed out.

I've taking to using paint on permanent bolts and torque seal on wheel bolts, and other "commonly removed for maintenance" bolts, and bolts in hard to see places (I use the uv glowing variety which makes it real easy to spot with a light) as a way to easily spot check if they've rotated or moved.

 

[Runner]

Do a pre-delivery inspection and if you have any accessories installed by the dealer (and even if you don't) look the machine over closely for damage. I had Power Beyond installed on my tractor and the dealer scratched the crap out of the fender in the process. I went to the dealer for the "pre-delivery inspection" (which I'm sure irritated them to no end) and noticed this damage. I advised him I wanted the scratched fender cap replaced with a new one with original finish, not spray-painted. Sure enough, when they delivered the tractor to my house, they had just spray-painted the fender cap (complete with mis-matched color, bubbles and runs) and I had to ride them about getting me a new one.

Also, make sure your tractor comes with everything it is supposed to. My JD was supposed to have 2 hard plastic PTO shaft covers (mid and rear), but because it was delivered with a rear mower attached, the dealer kept the rear cover, which I then had to re-purchase for $15 from a dealer.

For another equipment purchase (different dealer) the dealer did not provide the owners manual, engine manual or extra key (it was supposed to come with two keys).

When you are picking out a tractor, I would recommend writing down the serial number of the tractor and any attachments you pick out, and make sure they are delivering what you picked out. I ordered a new rear blade with my tractor and the dealer brought out one that had obviously been used (and abused) with a bent moldboard and bent pins and had been repainted.
Make sure you get the products you actually agreed to purchase and that some used or damaged crap hasn't been substituted.

If it sounds like I don't trust tractor dealers, that is correct. And the things I mentioned above were just the tip of the iceberg..... you have to be on your toes.

 

[JTKub]

Check the fuel/water separator. My T224 sat new, on the dealer lot for over a year.

Their PDI was OK, but I found a few ounces of water and some sludge in the separator.

I dumped and cleaned it and it's been good ever since.

 

[FullMetalBucket]

I’d recommend a battery powered grease gun for hitting the grease fittings fast and easy every 8-10 hours. Very important. Other than that RTM and become familiar with the features and functions. T25 is a workhorse for its size. Love mine.

 

[Yander]

Lastly....

Change this,

Buy this... TYM Heathered Beanie

 

[jjeff]

Newer Rk 21 owner first brand new tractor I ever bought hauled it up north out of excitement and anticipation foolishly failed to completely check things over. 2nd time mowing mmm front deck mounting nuts let loose so I was briefly using that deck as a road grader blade. Ran to store to get new 16mm nuts washers and lock washers. Good as new although I do check tightness of most fasteners throughout the entire tractor before use these days, second incident was when tractor was used for awhile the hydrostatic hydraulic fluid would heat up and expand till it leaked out of breather fill cap. Checking the sight glass cuz it doesn't have a dipstick, under close examination was over filled by a a gallon. All other checks I performed on fluid levels and fasteners were correct. I will agree with others a cordless grease gun hands down cuts lubrication of loader pins mid pto u joint and a few other greaseable fittings a Short mostly mess free experience. Usually grease before or after prolonged loader use with 3%=moly minimum. U joints use general all purpose marine bearing grease. I've said it a few times still scratching my head why I didn't buy a a small subcompact like that yrs ago for my up north three acre hilly property.