1st Regen Mode and then to the Shop

[TractorGunn]

Hit the first regen mode on the tractor, seemed like it ran about 30 minutes or so, and she has about 28 hours on her now.

And the starter is at it again.

Funny thing is last time it did it after attaching the brush mower, this time it did it taking it off to put on the boxblade.

She's definitely going to the shop to figure this out.

 

[TractorGunn]

Welp, they picked up my tractor this morning.

She wouldn't turn over either, guy tapped the starter while I turned the key, and she fired right up.

Sounds like it's going to be a couple weeks before I get her back.

 

[5030]

I sure am glad I have pre emissions tractors. When I read about the woes you all have on here, I thank myself I kept my somewhat vintage units. I had started to contemplate about upgrading to new tractors last year but didn't and I'm quietly thankfull I never did. Sometimes procrastination isn't all bad.

Bad enough owning emissions compliant cars that I cannot work on except for oil and oil fiter changes.

At least the automakers seem to have a handle on reliable emissions componets. tractor manufacturers don't in my view. To make it even worse, no tractor manufacturer's diagnostic tools (code readers and such) can be plugged into a different manufacturers tractors. For example, the Kubota scan tool cannot access triuble codes or components failures on say a Mahindra tractor, heck, you cannot even plug into the Mahindra diagnostic port because every manfacturer uses a unique gateway that no others can physically plug into. No standardization what so ever, quite unlike the OBD port on cars and trucks where you can access most everything emissions and drivetrain related with just about any scan tool.... and it also appears that the quality and longevity of emissions related components on newer tractors is lacking as well. My Autel scan tool plugs into our GM as well as our Ford and reads the computers seamlessly. I cannot even plug the Autel into a late model Kubota because the diagnostic port is unique to Kubota only.

I think it's all pure unadulterated hog wash and why I'm glad I kept my 2 pre 4 tractors. No emissions related garbage to fail and no unique code reader to read trouble codes which a dealer will charge you for.

When tractor builders first got into the 4-5 emissions standards they should have all sat down and standardized their diagnostic ports and programmed their ECU's so they could be read with any scan tool, just like cars and light trucks of today can be read.

They are all basically using similar emissions hardware anyway but none of their ECU's are compatible with each other.

 

[5030]

Sort of similar to JD's 'right to repair fiasco. You cannot access a JD unit with a non JD scan tool and to make it even worse, JD won't sell the average Joe farmer a compatible scan tool at any price. Even worse are the newer JD farm tractors, combines and spray rigs. Note I don't own any green equipment and won't but the newer units, the units actually communicate with the selling dealer via the Greenstar Satellite communications sytem and the unit tells the dealer when it's time to service it and get this.. The unit owner if he changes the oil, has to use JD filters because the filters all have microprocessors inside that tell the dealer stuff like filter restriction and if the filter has failed so the filters have to be replaced with JD filters only or the unit goes into limp mode....and limp mode don't work when farming, if you can even get a unit out of the barn. My buddy down the road runs JD exclusively so I get first hand experience with them. His units communicate with the dealer and then the tech shows up at his barn, performs the required services and charges him for that and he (tech) don't call ahead, he just shows up. Heck of a way to run a business.

 

[TractorGunn]

I sure am glad I have pre emissions tractors. When I read about the woes you all have on here, I thank myself I kept my somewhat vintage units. I had started to contemplate about upgrading to new tractors last year but didn't and I'm quietly thankfull I never did. Sometimes procrastination isn't all bad.

Bad enough owning emissions compliant cars that I cannot work on except for oil and oil fiter changes.

At least the automakers seem to have a handle on reliable emissions componets. tractor manufacturers don't in my view. To make it even worse, no tractor manufacturer's diagnostic tools (code readers and such) can be plugged into a different manufacturers tractors. For example, the Kubota scan tool cannot access triuble codes or components failures on say a Mahindra tractor, heck, you cannot even plug into the Mahindra diagnostic port because every manfacturer uses a unique gateway that no others can physically plug into. No standardization what so ever, quite unlike the OBD port on cars and trucks where you can access most everything emissions and drivetrain related with just about any scan tool.... and it also appears that the quality and longevity of emissions related components on newer tractors is lacking as well. My Autel scan tool plugs into our GM as well as our Ford and reads the computers seamlessly. I cannot even plug the Autel into a late model Kubota because the diagnostic port is unique to Kubota only.

I think it's all pure unadulterated hog wash and why I'm glad I kept my 2 pre 4 tractors. No emissions related garbage to fail and no unique code reader to read trouble codes which a dealer will charge you for.

When tractor builders first got into the 4-5 emissions standards they should have all sat down and standardized their diagnostic ports and programmed their ECU's so they could be read with any scan tool, just like cars and light trucks of today can be read.

They are all basically using similar emissions hardware anyway but none of their ECU's are compatible with each other.

I've had no 'woes' with the emissions system.

 

[5030]

I've had no 'woes' with the emissions system.

Consider yourself blessed but when you do, you'll be at the dealer's mercy and shop rate 100%.

Emissions related components under the EPA mandated guidelines are 'supposed to be guaranteed for 5 years, no exceptions, but it appears to me that a lot of dealers attempt to skirt around that and 'blame' emissions components failures on non emission component parts so they can charge the customer to fix them and what happens after the 5 year guarantee is up and they fail?

I guess you could trade in every 5 years for a new unit and take the depreciation hit and be happy. Don't work that way for me. For me, a tractor purchase is a large investment and I expect the unit to be viable for way more than 5 years. and...

If you peruse the used tractor market like on Tractor House for instance, almost every for sale ad states 'Tractor is a pre emissions unit' Why do they list them as such? Simple answer, because buyers don't want an emissions compliant unit plus non emissions tractors really retian their vaule.

I know that well. Both mine are pre emissions and I've been told (by my dealer) that they are worth if I sold them, at least as much as I paid for them new. Not that I would, simply because I don't ewant the grief, emissins compliant units have.

 

[TractorGunn]

Here's the 411:

Shop found the starter was bad. Also replaced a recall on the HST pedal rod. Here is a breakdown of starter issues on this model according to chatgpt:

You said:​

how can a tractors starter already be bad after only 25 hours of use?

ChatGPT said:​

A tractor starter failing after only 25 hours of use is definitely unusual, but it can happen—here are some of the most likely reasons:

---

1. Manufacturing Defect​

Even brand-new parts can be bad from the factory:

• Poor soldering or internal connection.
• Weak brushes or bad armature.
• Cheap materials (especially in off-brand or budget models).

2. Electrical System Issues​

If the starter is being overworked or underfed:

• Weak battery or low voltage can cause excessive strain.
• Bad ground or corroded cables lead to poor current delivery.
• A faulty solenoid or starter relay can cause improper function or arcing.

3. Frequent Short Starts​

If the tractor is started often for short runs, or cranked excessively (e.g., hard starting due to fuel or ignition problems), that will wear a starter fast—especially if it’s a gear-reduction type with small internals.

4. Heat or Moisture Damage​

• Starters mounted near the exhaust can overheat.
• Exposure to water/mud (common in compact or utility tractors) can corrode internal parts if not sealed well.

5. Misdiagnosis​

The starter might not even be the problem. Symptoms like a click or no start could actually come from:

• Bad battery
• Poor connections
• Faulty ignition switch
• Bad safety switches (seat, PTO, brake, etc.)

---

What to Do​

1. Check voltage at the starter during crank.
2. Inspect cables, terminals, and grounds.
3. Verify battery condition (load test or multimeter under load).
4. If confirmed bad, check warranty—most new tractors should cover this kind of failure.

If you let me know your tractor make/model, I can check for common starter complaints or technical bulletins.

You said:​

No it was the starter, and it has been replaced. It is an LS MT242 HE

ChatGPT said:​

Thanks — that helps clarify it.
If the starter on your LS MT242HE failed after only 25 hours and was confirmed bad and replaced, here's a breakdown of what most likely happened, based on known factors about that model:

---

Common Explanations for Early Starter Failure on an LS MT242HE:​

1. Defective OEM Part​

• LS tractors (including the MT2 series) source starters from third-party suppliers, often Doosan or a Korean/Japanese brand.
• Occasionally, a bad batch of starters slips through quality control — internal short, weak solenoid, bad brush alignment, etc.
• Other LS owners have reported early failures on electrical components (including starters and sensors), though it's not widespread.

2. Solenoid Burnout or Engagement Issues​

• These tractors use an inline solenoid mounted directly on the starter. If the solenoid sticks, it can cause:
  • Over-cranking
  • Arcing
  • Premature motor burnout

3. Starter Engagement Misalignment​

• If the flywheel ring gear and starter pinion aren’t perfectly aligned (rare, but possible from factory assembly), it can wear out the pinion or damage the motor trying to engage.

4. Vibration or Mounting Problem​

• LS tractors do vibrate more than higher-end compacts (like Kubota or Deere). If the starter wasn’t firmly torqued or properly shimmed, it could shift slightly, causing internal strain or contact issues.

---

Should You Be Worried?​

Not necessarily. This is likely a rare one-off failure. If:

• The replacement starter is working fine
• No unusual electrical symptoms persist (hard starts, slow crank, click/no start)

...then you're probably in the clear.

 

[GS650GL]

Who the heck is chatgpt and what makes them an expert on this subject? Looks like an AI generated story. I think it's funny that they said LS tractors vibrate more than higher end compacts like Kubota or Deere. Who decided that? Deere uses Yanmar engines in their compacts also, like your MT242. I used to work at a Kubota dealership and they had a ton of engine problems. Kubota wouldn't let us fix them and sent a new engine in a crate when we had a failure. We had a shed full of old engines that had to be scrapped. They made us show proof that we had destroyed them so they couldn't be fixed and re-used before they sent the new engine.
I am also curious where the information came from that dealers are charging customers for emissions repairs that are supposed to be covered by the 5 year emissions warranty by blaming emission component failures on non-emission related parts.

 

[TractorGunn]

Who the heck is chatgpt and what makes them an expert on this subject?

Who said it's an expert?

It's AI. This searches the web for information provided by real events, complaints, other data. Sometimes it is spot on, sometimes not.

Looks like an AI generated story.

Ya think?

I think it's funny that they said LS tractors vibrate more than higher end compacts like Kubota or Deere. Who decided that? Deere uses Yanmar engines in their compacts also, like your MT242. I used to work at a Kubota dealership and they had a ton of engine problems. Kubota wouldn't let us fix them and sent a new engine in a crate when we had a failure. We had a shed full of old engines that had to be scrapped. They made us show proof that we had destroyed them so they couldn't be fixed and re-used before they sent the new engine.

Yes, yes, of course, contrary to all the people I've talked to with the LS, they're really just a pile of junk, and soon enough I'll have a pile of engines in the barn. They probably all have piles of engines too, but never told me.

I am also curious where the information came from that dealers are charging customers for emissions repairs that are supposed to be covered by the 5 year emissions warranty by blaming emission component failures on non-emission related parts.

Maybe you should ask chatgpt.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Who the heck is chatgpt and what makes them an expert on this subject? Looks like an AI generated story. I think it's funny that they said LS tractors vibrate more than higher end compacts like Kubota or Deere. Who decided that? Deere uses Yanmar engines in their compacts also, like your MT242. I used to work at a Kubota dealership and they had a ton of engine problems. Kubota wouldn't let us fix them and sent a new engine in a crate when we had a failure. We had a shed full of old engines that had to be scrapped. They made us show proof that we had destroyed them so they couldn't be fixed and re-used before they sent the new engine.
I am also curious where the information came from that dealers are charging customers for emissions repairs that are supposed to be covered by the 5 year emissions warranty by blaming emission component failures on non-emission related parts.

It's AI.. It's only available sources are whats published online in articles and forums, so take it's 'findings' with a grain of salt.

 

[Midniteoyl]

how can a tractors starter already be bad after only 25 hours of use?

It's called the 'Bathtub Curve'. If a part is going to fail, it will either fail early (Infant Mortality) or later in it's life (Wear-out).

Bathtub curve - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[TractorGunn]

It's called the 'Bathtub Curve'. If a part is going to fail, it will either fail early (Infant Mortality) or later in it's life (Wear-out).

Bathtub curve - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Interesting.

 

[Squirrel's242]

OP glad you got it solved. I'd have suspected the starter or loose connection since the inconsistent starting was tied to physical movement and parts. Probably would have tried to get the starter exchanged vs taking the whole tractor in. But that's what is required during the warranty so their hands do the work.

No matter, old machines break too. The first year owning my 18yo 255k mile truck was spent tolerating a charging issue. After a marathon day of diagnostics on each component top to bottom, and replacement of those worn out parts, it's fixed.

Anyway, congrats on your new tractor, I bought my MT242 this year too. Old machines start out new at one point.


Oh, regren, my first was at 17hrs, then at 27 and 33. The 33hr one ticked me off. If regen is a result of the soot production and soot is high, seems the tractor is not hot enough or fuel is too much. I'm running my tractor in 100*+ weather @1700+ idle and 22-2500rpm for several hours of work. I didn't agree a regen should occur in those conditions. I've also noticed from the beginning my tractor's temp gauge stays low. Which seems odd to me for those conditions.

Am I not working this tractor hard enough? Is the thermostat compromised? Is the computer at fault? Don't know, but I'm watching. I've toyed with the idea of installing a 'winter front' to see if that affects the temp gauge reading at all. It should, especially n the summer. And if it doesn't, is the cooling system more robust than I think, or is it faulty? IDK, but those my thoughts.

At this point in time, on this specific property, my tractor may very well not be getting the workout it is capable of tolerating. If that's the case, I'll work it hard when I use it. Since the 33hr mark I've bumped up my idle rpm now to 19-2k after a brief wake up idle to get the oil flowing. Work rpm is still 23-25. I'm curious and waiting to see when the next regen cycle occurs.

But again, every old machine was new at one point. Takes time to break a machine in to really see how it'll be. You don't know long term results until you get through the long term time.

 

[TractorGunn]

OP glad you got it solved. I'd have suspected the starter or loose connection since the inconsistent starting was tied to physical movement and parts. Probably would have tried to get the starter exchanged vs taking the whole tractor in. But that's what is required during the warranty so their hands do the work.

No matter, old machines break too. The first year owning my 18yo 255k mile truck was spent tolerating a charging issue. After a marathon day of diagnostics on each component top to bottom, and replacement of those worn out parts, it's fixed.

Anyway, congrats on your new tractor, I bought my MT242 this year too. Old machines start out new at one point.


Oh, regren, my first was at 17hrs, then at 27 and 33. The 33hr one ticked me off. If regen is a result of the soot production and soot is high, seems the tractor is not hot enough or fuel is too much. I'm running my tractor in 100*+ weather @1700+ idle and 22-2500rpm for several hours of work. I didn't agree a regen should occur in those conditions. I've also noticed from the beginning my tractor's temp gauge stays low. Which seems odd to me for those conditions.

Am I not working this tractor hard enough? Is the thermostat compromised? Is the computer at fault? Don't know, but I'm watching. I've toyed with the idea of installing a 'winter front' to see if that affects the temp gauge reading at all. It should, especially n the summer. And if it doesn't, is the cooling system more robust than I think, or is it faulty? IDK, but those my thoughts.

At this point in time, on this specific property, my tractor may very well not be getting the workout it is capable of tolerating. If that's the case, I'll work it hard when I use it. Since the 33hr mark I've bumped up my idle rpm now to 19-2k after a brief wake up idle to get the oil flowing. Work rpm is still 23-25. I'm curious and waiting to see when the next regen cycle occurs.

But again, every old machine was new at one point. Takes time to break a machine in to really see how it'll be. You don't know long term results until you get through the long term time.

Thanks for the response, good to see another on here with the same tractor.

I don't know what to say about the temperature 'issue' (if it even is an issue) with your rig. Any developments or findings would be interesting to hear about. I kept an eye on mine while brush mowing due to some tall prairie grass that would clog the grill and radiator, and I saw the temperature come up slightly, which immediately resolved once I cleaned it out. My handy little Milwaukee Job Site blower does a good job taking care of this.

I'm glad my rig has only done the one regen so far. Every 30 would be great imo.

I also looked into how to maybe reduce the regen frequency and read that adding cetane boost may help. You may already being doing this, or maybe it's not a good thing, not sure. I did add some diesel kleen to this tank, and it runs notably smoother and quiter.

Thanks again for the good post.

 

[Squirrel's242]

Thanks for the response, good to see another on here with the same tractor.

I don't know what to say about the temperature 'issue' (if it even is an issue) with your rig. Any developments or findings would be interesting to hear about. I kept an eye on mine while brush mowing due to some tall prairie grass that would clog the grill and radiator, and I saw the temperature come up slightly, which immediately resolved once I cleaned it out. My handy little Milwaukee Job Site blower does a good job taking care of this.

I'm glad my rig has only done the one regen so far. Every 30 would be great imo.

I also looked into how to maybe reduce the regen frequency and read that adding cetane boost may help. You may already being doing this, or maybe it's not a good thing, not sure. I did add some diesel kleen to this tank, and it runs notably smoother and quiter.

Thanks again for the good post.

I haven't seen many MT242s out there Good to see another too. The blower on the grill is a good idea.

I agree that a 30hr regen cycle would be better. When the tractor regens I haven't parked it, just kept working. It de-rates(?) I guess but there was no work stoppage. It just smells funny, sounds different and gets hot, but goes back to normal once the cycle completes. Hopefully the ground work I have coming for it will break it in further and extend the regen cycle.

I have not run fuel additive yet and meaning to, the bottle of Diesel Kleen is there if I remember to grab it when I walk to the tractor. Are keeping track of your hours/gallons usage at all?

 

[Asteral]

we were recently told at the last class i took with LS, on the ls regens that you should be keeping you tractor at 2200 rpm or higher at all times for the passive side of the regen to function like it should, you will till have to preform regens but this is supposedly supposed to help keep them from having to occur as often.
The way they explained it to me was the engine are designed to run at high rpms at all times so LS is now asking us to inform all our customers when they call in regarding regen to follow this new guideline for rpms

 

[GS650GL]

Running at higher RPM, working it harder, and not idling excessively does help to keep the exhaust burning cleaner and reducing the frequency of regens, but it will still have to regen regardless. A regen every 25 to 50 hours used to be considered normal, but that was with Tier IV and Tier IV B emissions. We are now at Stage 5 emissions and LS is using Yanmar engines on these models and the Tier IV LS engines are discontinued. With Stage 5 and the software programmed into the ECU, they can now regen as often as every 6 to 12 hours instead of 25 to 50 hours. Not sure about what effect fuel additives have on the frequency of regens, but many people have told me they noticed a big difference if they used premium diesel fuel instead of regular or off-road diesel. Keeping the air filter clean and anything else that will help produce less soot will help. Every tractor and every situation is different, so there is no specific number of hours between regens and it can vary quite a bit.

 

[TractorGunn]

I haven't seen many MT242s out there Good to see another too. The blower on the grill is a good idea.

I agree that a 30hr regen cycle would be better. When the tractor regens I haven't parked it, just kept working. It de-rates(?) I guess but there was no work stoppage. It just smells funny, sounds different and gets hot, but goes back to normal once the cycle completes. Hopefully the ground work I have coming for it will break it in further and extend the regen cycle.

I have not run fuel additive yet and meaning to, the bottle of Diesel Kleen is there if I remember to grab it when I walk to the tractor. Are keeping track of your hours/gallons usage at all?

Yeah, I just kept on working too.

I think I've used about 15 gallons or so in 30 hours iirc.

 

[TractorGunn]

Running at higher RPM, working it harder, and not idling excessively does help to keep the exhaust burning cleaner and reducing the frequency of regens, but it will still have to regen regardless. A regen every 25 to 50 hours used to be considered normal, but that was with Tier IV and Tier IV B emissions. We are now at Stage 5 emissions and LS is using Yanmar engines on these models and the Tier IV LS engines are discontinued. With Stage 5 and the software programmed into the ECU, they can now regen as often as every 6 to 12 hours instead of 25 to 50 hours. Not sure about what effect fuel additives have on the frequency of regens, but many people have told me they noticed a big difference if they used premium diesel fuel instead of regular or off-road diesel. Keeping the air filter clean and anything else that will help produce less soot will help. Every tractor and every situation is different, so there is no specific number of hours between regens and it can vary quite a bit.

Allegedly the additive will cause a cleaner burn. This is the first tank I've put Diesel Kleen in, and tomorrow, Lord willing, I'll have a real day off and get to run her and fix the road.