Question for electricians

   / Question for electricians #31  
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Using a solid wire spec for 9 awg, and figuring simple dc resistance, both, close enough for this generalized calculation, that 1.3’ cord would need to dissipate 5 watts of heat at 50 amps on both legs. Imagine the heat of a 5 watt light bulb, dissipated on that cable….
Then, figure, is your generator even capable of supplying 50 amps, and for how long?
 
   / Question for electricians #33  
Then I would not use that device with AWG 10 wiring.

In all likelihood, any localized heating within the AWG 10 will be dissippated through the connected devices, but you really don't have the ability to easily make that determination. The 50A breaker could allow the wiring to operate beyond either the rating of the wiring itself, or at least the terminations on the connected devices. Not Kosher.
Maybe in reality it’s a fusible link?
 
   / Question for electricians #34  
In all honesty, a 9kw generator can only supply 37 amps at 240volts.
A lot of the older 1100 sq ft homes here with 3 bedrooms still have a 30 amp 120 volt main.

This works because gas central gravity heat, gas dryer, gas hot water and gas cooling…
 
   / Question for electricians #35  
It looks like the spec is for the meter, it all depends on the generator output breaker.
 
   / Question for electricians #36  
The devil is in the details. What are the two asterisks denoting? Judging by the numbers listed, that table appears to be only for a single conductor in air, and perhaps at 75C or 90C insulation rating, likely not applicable to more than one current-carrying conductor in a cable.
 
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   / Question for electricians #37  
A lot of the older 1100 sq ft homes here with 3 bedrooms still have a 30 amp 120 volt main.

This works because gas central gravity heat, gas dryer, gas hot water and gas cooling…
I've never seen a service smaller than 60A and found that to be lacking in my first house. I hooked a dryer to the same breaker as the stove and told my wife at the time not to use both together.
 
   / Question for electricians #38  
1920’s was a building boom in the SF East Bay with tree lined streets, sidewalks and variations on the classic Craftsman Bungalow style.

All these home built with a 30 amp main feeding a 2 fuse sub panel with a 20 amp plug circuit and a 15 amp light circuit.

The mild climate of SF Bay Area requires no A/C and many homes have the optional 20,000 BTU floor furnace.

I own several and never had a single electrical issue because everything producing heat is natural gas.

The 60 amp 240 volt panels didn’t start until the 1946-48 post war boom.

The upscale 2500 square feet homes of the late 1950’s have 125amp 240 panels of the infamous Federal Pacific Brand.

My 2500 square foot home averages 9 kWH use per day all year…

When A/C isn’t typical and natural gas is… the need for large electric service isn’t.

I’ve posted with pictures my Honda EM5000 powering 4 homes… refrigeration/freezers, lights and charging stations during extended PSPS events.

My home in Washington State is all electric and has 400 amp service. Thankfully PSE is a fraction of what PGE charges.

This is why no one answer fits all…

Start by reviewing typical usage over a year or two…

Decide if everything at any and all times must be usable and plan accordingly.

On a side note not far from me lives a retired widow in a nice home… she was very concerned about all the scheduled and unscheduled power outages and paid a lot to have a 25kW natural gas generator installed including enlarging gas service with a bigger gas meter to handle it.

The install works like a charm and does everything promised but she is very unhappy because you can’t throw down dollar bills fast enough to pay for the natural gas consumed…

Just something to think about.
D47B7B74-7548-45F0-BF46-6E4D72D4C929.jpeg
 
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   / Question for electricians #39  
On a side note not far from me lives a retired widow in a nice home… she was very concerned about all the scheduled and unscheduled power outages and paid a lot to have a 25kW natural gas generator installed including enlarging gas service with a bigger gas meter to handle it.

The install works like a charm and does everything promised but she is very unhappy because you can’t throw down dollar bills fast enough to pay for the natural gas consumed…

Just something to think about.View attachment 3686437
Living in rural area its common for 22-25 KW generators run on propane, common installation usually with a 250 gallon propane tank and if you own the tank (not lease) you can buy propane from lowest provider....

On another note in a few days we get to test my new 7.5 kw generator (old 6.5kw puked it guts out) as local utility company is going to shut me off for the day as they are replacing pole and transformer for my utility drop.... Its going to be interesting as they have provided me with a BTPM (Back up Transfer Power Meter) switch then goes between my main breaker and their meter as a automatic transfer switch after I manually start my generator..... Sure I can probably not run my AC (same as with old generator) but I was able to run well (1.5 HP pump) and TV and refrigerator and ceiling fans and internet .... BTPM switch is only good for 30 amp, so we will see.....

 
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   / Question for electricians
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Thank you all for your help! I decided to give it a try and placed the order.
Next gen maintenance run I'll test it turning on and off appliances one by one and make a list of wattage/amps. After that I don't need this device to be connected all the time
 
 

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