Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,671  
Thanks for all the responses so far. I apologize if this has been discussed before. I did speed read a few pages of the thread but 24,664 posts is a lot to digest.

I suppose I should have given more information in my post. I had 6 acres logged and quite a few dead & dying Ash removed due to an Emerald Ash Borer infestation. All the Ash trunks are useable for cord wood though. Most of the timber was Cherry with a few Maple & Oak. I estimate I'll get 10 to 12 cords from the cuttings.

I'm 77, in fairly good shape, but I have my limits. I do cut & split manually from time to time but I'm not willing to do all this by hand.

I have looked at used splitters in the area but most are well used and might be difficult to resell. I have the space to store a splitter indoors so I could hold on to it for awhile if necessary. It will be some time before I have more logging done, so I doubt I'll have any further use for it.

I do see some owners on Facebook Marketplace that rent their splitters by the day. I don't know if I want to go down that road though since renters can be hard on the equipment.

Thanks again for the suggestions!
Look around for a used splitter with a bad hydraulic unit and convert it to run of the rear hydraulics of your tractor.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,672  
Look around for a used splitter with a bad hydraulic unit and convert it to run of the rear hydraulics of your tractor.
That works but be prepared for a really slooow splitter unless you are willing to spend a fair amount of money to speed it up.

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,673  
The biggest problem with a tractor operated splitter is the loss of your tractor bucket for hauling away the splits. It’s so handy to leave it parked next to the splitter to fill as you go.
IMG_5038.jpeg
The little Honda engine on my 22 ton vertical/horizontal 22 ton 2-stage pump Northern splitter hasn’t missed a beat in the 20 some years that I’ve had it.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,674  
The biggest problem with a tractor operated splitter is the loss of your tractor bucket for hauling away the splits
The easiest solution to that is to go buy another tractor!!!

For big pieces I like to fill the grapple, and roll them into the splitter. Then toss the finished pieces into my dump trailer.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,676  
The biggest problem with a tractor operated splitter is the loss of your tractor bucket for hauling away the splits. It’s so handy to leave it parked next to the splitter to fill as you go.
Even more than that, my tractor is my log lift! I buck the rounds, roll them into the bucket, lift and park it right next to the infeed side of my splitter. This way, I can keep the splitter horizontal and move faster than I ever could with heavy rounds in vertical mode.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,677  
The biggest problem with a tractor operated splitter is the loss of your tractor bucket for hauling away the splits. It’s so handy to leave it parked next to the splitter to fill as you go.
View attachment 2660535The little Honda engine on my 22 ton vertical/horizontal 22 ton 2-stage pump Northern splitter hasn’t missed a beat in the 20 some years that I’ve had it.
I didn't say to convert it into a 3-point attachment. You can easily buy long hoses, and quick connects. Tow it where you want it and when you want to leave on the tractor, disconnect it.

As to the comment about it being slow, it would be dependent on how many gpm the tractor hydraulics move versus the power unit on the splitter. Small splitters have pumps rated at 2 to 3-gpm. Splitters with larger rams, typically have 11-gpm. Big splitters have 16 to 20-gpm. If your tractor is a 23 to 25-hp CUT, you probably have 3 to 5-gpm. A 35-horse tractor will be around 11 to 15-gpm.

And, in the case of the larger splitters, if you need higher flow or pressure, you may be able to convert the pump to a PTO pump.

Lastly, unless you're in a commercial environment, do you really need to go fast?

It is all a matter of economics. Folks don't maintain their splitters, and the engine dies. They buy another splitter, and the old one just sets there. They're sure they will fix it someday. Pretty soon they have a couple of dead splitters setting there. Which if you notice one while driving by and ask, they may just give you for hauling it away.

A friend who was in his eighties, made good off book pocket money, fixing the non-running stuff people gave him for hauling it off. And, after he got a local reputation, folks would call him about things they had or wanted.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,678  
I didn't say to convert it into a 3-point attachment. You can easily buy long hoses, and quick connects. Tow it where you want it and when you want to leave on the tractor, disconnect it.

As to the comment about it being slow, it would be dependent on how many gpm the tractor hydraulics move versus the power unit on the splitter. Small splitters have pumps rated at 2 to 3-gpm. Splitters with larger rams, typically have 11-gpm. Big splitters have 16 to 20-gpm. If your tractor is a 23 to 25-hp CUT, you probably have 3 to 5-gpm. A 35-horse tractor will be around 11 to 15-gpm.

And, in the case of the larger splitters, if you need higher flow or pressure, you may be able to convert the pump to a PTO pump.

Lastly, unless you're in a commercial environment, do you really need to go fast?
Not at the remotes they don't...

I have a pto splitter, my big tractor has 16 gal at the remotes and it's still a bit too slow.

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,679  
Anyone try one of these on a tractor FEL?

1739048298024.png
1739048426408.jpeg


It has a 12 second cycle time at 13 GPM and my W&R Long 3rd function valve puts out 12. Should be close enough.

Looks like you could grab a round and split it while transporting to the wood pile.
 

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