What angle for weld-on Euro hooks?

[BCLoco]

I think he was suggesting to just cut off the ball end (in red) and keep both functions just in case

I'm sure he was. But since the telescoping function is totally unnecessary with this hitch system, that would be a waste of good ball ends.

 

[jyoutz]

I think he was suggesting to just cut off the ball end (in red) and keep both functions just in case

Yes

 

[Cycledude]

Well I have Euro hooks and extendable arms and definitely would not want to be without the option to be able to easily slide them in or out.
Mt 9 foot rear blade weighs 1,400+ pounds, good luck attempting to slide that around easily while hooking up, when it’s unhooked it’s usually outside on gravel. Hopefully when pushing to awkwardly attempt move it with the 3point arms you won’t bend the stand that holds it up when it’s unhooked.

 

[BCLoco]

Well I have Euro hooks and extendable arms and definitely would not want to be without the option to be able to easily slide them in or out.
Mt 9 foot rear blade weighs 1,400+ pounds, good luck attempting to slide that around easily while hooking up, when it’s unhooked it’s usually outside on gravel. Hopefully when pushing to awkwardly move it with the 3point arms you won’t bend the stand that holds it up when it’s unhooked.

Is that the only implement you telescope them on? You came out to mention that one implement?

If that were my implement, and for some reason I couldn't figure out how to back up to it reasonably straight, then I'd probably think about dropping the front of it onto something other than a flimsy leg stand next time I unhook. That way I could just back up to it and give it a little nudge rather than get up and down from the tractor again. And most rear blades have a fair amount of side to side wiggle at the pivot anyways. You really shouldn't be having problems getting hitched up to it.

The MF 9S is an absolutely massive tractor with class 4 Euro hooks capable of lifting 26k pound implements. It does not have telescoping hooks. Next time you're struggling with your equally massive rear blade, keep that thought in mind. If they can do it, you can too.

This thread wasn't about how much some people love their telescoping links. It was a fabrication question. If anyone has something to add to the original topic, or wants to post pics of their own Euro link setup, I'd really appreciate that.

 

[Cycledude]

No the 9 foot rear blade is not the only implement I telescope the arms on when hooking up, I use the telescoping function almost every time I hook up any three point equipment to my baby sized tractor.
If your happy without telescoping arms I guess that’s all that really matters, I wish you great success welding on your non sliding Euro hooks.

 

[BCLoco]

No the 9 foot rear blade is not the only implement I telescope the arms on when hooking up, I use the telescoping function almost every time I hook up any three point equipment to my baby sized tractor.
If your happy without telescoping arms I guess that’s all that really matters, I wish you great success welding on your non sliding Euro hooks.

Thanks. I'm going to love them I'm sure.

 

[Oz_Kioti]

My Kioti came with extendable "cassette type" hole'n'pin connectors, which I removed and put on the shelf. I then got two hooks, welded them on to mild steel bar, drilled a hole in the mild bar and secured them into the slots in the lower arms with a bolt. This way, I still have the option of putting the connections back to factory standard.

It's midnight here now, but I'll take a couple of pics in the morning for you. I will say, and the photos will show this, the hooks need to be twisted a little when being welded, to match the angle of the OEM slide-outs!

Pics coming after a sleep!

 

[BCLoco]

My Kioti came with extendable "cassette type" hole'n'pin connectors, which I removed and put on the shelf. I then got two hooks, welded them on to mild steel bar, drilled a hole in the mild bar and secured them into the slots in the lower arms with a bolt. This way, I still have the option of putting the connections back to factory standard.

It's midnight here now, but I'll take a couple of pics in the morning for you. I will say, and the photos will show this, the hooks need to be twisted a little when being welded, to match the angle of the OEM slide-outs!

Pics coming after a sleep!

That is exactly what I'm talking about doing to mine. I don't want to cut my existing ends. They're worth more to me as emergency spares or possibly to return the tractor to factory before selling or trading it in.Thank you!

 

[zoedog2012]

That is exactly what I'm talking about doing to mine. I don't want to cut my existing ends. They're worth more to me as emergency spares or possibly to return the tractor to factory before selling or trading it in.Thank you!

When my implements grow balls, I'll switch!

 

[ptsg]

When my implements grow balls, I'll switch!

My tractor grew a pair and had them dangling on the top link when it got delivered.

 

[Oz_Kioti]

Using the OEM part as a template, we welded the new hooks onto suitable mild steel bar with the same dimensions, paying particular attention to the two angles* - the bend angle and the lean or twist angle. It was a bit of a fiddle - tacking and comparing - and then the full DEEP weld when it was aligned correctly.

*Different tractors may well have different angles!

We drilled a single hole in the new bar to accept the original pin, so now the original lifting tab is locked into place, and of course the new fitting no longer slides in or out, but that's not an issue for me.

 

[BCLoco]

Using the OEM part as a template, we welded the new hooks onto suitable mild steel bar with the same dimensions, paying particular attention to the two angles* - the bend angle and the lean or twist angle. It was a bit of a fiddle - tacking and comparing - and then the full DEEP weld when it was aligned correctly.

*Different tractors may well have different angles!

We drilled a single hole in the new bar to accept the original pin, so now the original lifting tab is locked into place, and of course the new fitting no longer slides in or out, but that's not an issue for me.

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View attachment 2178891

Nice job! In my case I have the left to right angle to work out, but no twist so that's nice. I'm still going back and forth a little on the vertical angle. ptsg's hooks look square mounted to the lower links, and the "angle of attack" looked pretty good. I won't be able to make that decision for certain until I have the hooks tacked to the square-cut flat bar and mounted in the arms at implement working height. Whether I leave it that way or dial in a bit of rake, I'll post the results with the final numbers on the angle(s).

 

[Cycledude]

Most folks probably don’t have the proper tools to cut the slots. I sure don’t that’s why I shipped mine to Fit Rite out in California to have the stock balls removed and the Euro hooks welded on, I definitely didn’t want to give up the ability to slide-extend the arms when hooking up 3point equipment.

I just wish LS would allow factory Euro hooks to be sold here in the USA just like they do in most other countries.

 

[RayIN]

Don't tell Pat's Quick Hitch that is a euro-system. I think he invented this system here in the states.
Now there are about 6 different versions around the globe.

 

[BCLoco]

Don't tell Pat's Quick Hitch that is a euro-system. I think he invented this system here in the states.
Now there are about 6 different versions around the globe.

No. Just no.

Pat's is just another version of a design that has been around since at least the 60s on tractors like Oliver. Per their own company page, he came up with his version in the 90s and started the manufacturing company in 2000. The things unique about Pat's are that they are installed over the existing ball ends on the lower links, and that the hooks connect to just the regular straight pins on implements. Both of these unique aspects are drawbacks as much as they are features.

Pat's Quick Hitch has a place helping people achieve some level of quick hitching, but the euro hooks are a far superior system and much older design.

 

[RayIN]

No. Just no.

Pat's is just another version of a design that has been around since at least the 60s on tractors like Oliver. Per their own company page, he came up with his version in the 90s and started the manufacturing company in 2000. The things unique about Pat's are that they are installed over the existing ball ends on the lower links, and that the hooks connect to just the regular straight pins on implements. Both of these unique aspects are drawbacks as much as they are features.

Pat's Quick Hitch has a place helping people achieve some level of quick hitching, but the euro hooks are a far superior system and much older design.

OK, thanks for setting me straight, and confirming the original design is from the U.S.A. not Europe.

 

[ptsg]

@BCLoco I was near my tractor the other day and remembered to take some better pictures of the hooks. Hope it helps some.

 

[BCLoco]

@BCLoco I was near my tractor the other day and remembered to take some better pictures of the hooks. Hope it helps some.

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Excellent pictures! Thank you.

This upgrade can't come soon enough. I'm still dithering on choosing a brand. There's a huge difference in price between the low and high ends of the scale.

 

[rScotty]

Excellent pictures! Thank you.

This upgrade can't come soon enough. I'm still dithering on choosing a brand. There's a huge difference in price between the low and high ends of the scale.

Is there any way to compare based on quality rather than price?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Excellent pictures! Thank you.

This upgrade can't come soon enough. I'm still dithering on choosing a brand. There's a huge difference in price between the low and high ends of the scale.

Can you show the price variations and what you get?
There can be a big difference when comparing different sizes.