Global / euro not automatically latching

   / Global / euro not automatically latching #21  
There is some damage going on. The welded plate got pushed back, which may explain why you have a gap. You can see the weld tearing in the bottom.

Then there is the weird stuff going on with that 3rd hole. The bolts also look awful rusty.

Is this a new tractor?
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Yes it’s a new tractor. It’s back at the dealer for a list of other issues and I added this one to the list but I was hoping to better understand myself. I’m not a welder, can you tell me more about the tearing? I’m not sure I see what you’re seeing. Thanks.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #23  
I added some markings on the picture. It should help.

In the blue arrow, you can see the weld tearing apart, cause by something that forced that plate backwards.

On the red circle, looks like there might be a chunk missing, that somehow got broken.

The broken part won't cause your issues I believe, but being a new tractor, I would expect to be in the right condition.

However, the welded plate being pushed back, means it can't trip the mechanism so it won't latch.

img_6038-jpeg.2099970
 

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   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Thanks I see it now. And yes I agree and noticed earlier about the chunk missing. But I think that tear and push back is more of a problem than the chunk missing. I imagine they can grind and re-weld a mounting plate in the right position.

Separately, looking closer, are these gaps normal? More cosmetic than structural I imagine.
 

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   / Global / euro not automatically latching #25  
I see what you're saying but it's a bit hard to tell from that angle.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#26  
This one might help. Thanks again!
 

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   / Global / euro not automatically latching #27  
I added some markings on the picture. It should help.

In the blue arrow, you can see the weld tearing apart, cause by something that forced that plate backwards.

On the red circle, looks like there might be a chunk missing, that somehow got broken.

The broken part won't cause your issues I believe, but being a new tractor, I would expect to be in the right condition.

However, the welded plate being pushed back, means it can't trip the mechanism so it won't latch.

img_6038-jpeg.2099970
That actually appears to be a defective welding job. Automation at its finest. Makes a great-looking bead that isn't melted into both pieces-making them one.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #28  
Here’s what I think happened; If you’ll notice the bolts are one size too short for the nylock nuts to grab bolt threads and keep them from loosening, because of this that front bolt that’s missing unthreaded itself out enough that the framework of the carrier grabbed the bolt head when it was curled back....
When this happened it first pushed the welded plate back out of position then snapped the corner off at the bolt hole.
All this because the assembler didn’t bother to use long enough bolts 😆
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #29  
Little update. Took a close look at my 3 bolts securing trip plate . Same as OP’s too short to thread into nylock ring. Must be a Deere oversight. Original are 8x1.25 x20mm ,went to local hardware and got 25mm length, also applied a little blue locktite. For the tiny cost and time well worth doing to avoid Op’s Situation.
 

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   / Global / euro not automatically latching #30  
Little update. Took a close look at my 3 bolts securing trip plate . Same as OP’s too short to thread into nylock ring. Must be a Deere oversight. Original are 8x1.25 x20mm ,went to local hardware and got 25mm length, also applied a little blue locktite. For the tiny cost and time well worth doing to avoid Op’s Situation.
Are those deere loaders, that are made in china?

I looked at some deere loaders and they were made in china.

SR
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #31  
Are those deere loaders, that are made in china?

I looked at some deere loaders and they were made in china.

SR
Quite certain these 5 series loaders are not made in China. I believe and somebody correct me if I’m wrong there assembled in Mexico. I will say they have a impressive build quality to them .
Scratching my head though why they’d use a bolt that’s one length too short to reach the nylon lock ring of the nut🤔.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Tractor only has 29 hours on it and very little loader use. I’d be surprised if they rattled out. Maybe though I guess. If they did you’d think there’d be a lot more people complaining.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#33  
I do agree the bolts are too short though.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Update: dealer replaced the welded mounting bracket and everything works as intended now. The spring pin will release when fully curled even without any attachments.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #35  
Update: dealer replaced the welded mounting bracket and everything works as intended now. The spring pin will release when fully curled even without any attachments.
Good news, did they bother to use a bolt one size longer than the original so it actually goes thru the nylock lock ring on nut?
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Nope, they used the Deere spec bolts. I wonder why they are so short?
Screenshot 2025-01-09 at 9.04.28 PM.png
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #37  
So those bolts don't even start to touch the nylock part of the nut.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #38  
Nope, they used the Deere spec bolts. I wonder why they are so short?
View attachment 2173184
Nope, they used the Deere spec bolts. I wonder why they are so short?
View attachment 2173184
Evidently Deere isn’t aware there just a little too short to reach the nylon lock ring. Or 99% of the time they hold until your warranty expires 😁.
For less than $5 and about 5 minutes I’d certainly replace them with a 25mm length like I did in my previous post.
You’re Dealer did cover the repair under warranty this time I’m sure. Once that expires it only takes one to rattle loose and you’ll be back in same predicament.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #39  
Are those deere loaders, that are made in china?

I looked at some deere loaders and they were made in china.

SR

I am usually disappointed to see any of the legacy brands now making things in China. A feeling of “sellout” or “cheap quality” seems to find it’s way into me.
When I buy Deere, I wan USA-made Deere, not “China”.

With that in mind, my Deere CX-15 is manufactured in China and assembled in Mexico. The gearboxes are made in China (as are all the others). When I bought it over 10 years ago, I was unhappy about it.

10+ years has passed. The CX-15 has been nearly flawless. I had one driveshaft u-joint fail and ruin the driveshaft yolk. It was about $800.

So (1) $800 repair on a $20,000 attachment over 10+ years. And for all I know, I might have been at fault for forgetting to grease it.

I’ve come to the conclusion that “Made in China” can run the gamut from “junk” quality to “excellent” quality. I still don’t like it, but you end-up relying on the mothership company to maintain quality standards when they move production to China, Mexico, etc.

My Ram is made in Mexico. Quality has been excellent.
 
   / Global / euro not automatically latching #40  
I am usually disappointed to see any of the legacy brands now making things in China. A feeling of “sellout” or “cheap quality” seems to find it’s way into me.
When I buy Deere, I wan USA-made Deere, not “China”.

With that in mind, my Deere CX-15 is manufactured in China and assembled in Mexico. The gearboxes are made in China (as are all the others). When I bought it over 10 years ago, I was unhappy about it.

10+ years has passed. The CX-15 has been nearly flawless. I had one driveshaft u-joint fail and ruin the driveshaft yolk. It was about $800.

So (1) $800 repair on a $20,000 attachment over 10+ years. And for all I know, I might have been at fault for forgetting to grease it.

I’ve come to the conclusion that “Made in China” can run the gamut from “junk” quality to “excellent” quality. I still don’t like it, but you end-up relying on the mothership company to maintain quality standards when they move production to China, Mexico, etc.

My Ram is made in Mexico. Quality has been excellent.
I'm glad you are happy with your deer rotary cutter, but I still have a bad taste in my mouth from all those MX6's that broke bottom shafts over and over.

As for your dodge, I have one of those too, and it's been a POS with electrical problems, I'll never buy another one of those either!

I've owned or now own Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and Toyota, the Chevys have been the best by far so that's what I buy these days.

I judge them by how reliable they are when the miles start piling up on them, not when they are new. They are all nice when they are new.

BTW, my dodge was made in mexico too, my Silverado was made in Indiana.

SR
 

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