Sub compact new vs used advice

[DMW]

The GC series has been around over 20 years. Basic drivetrain hasn't changed. Pretty solid choice.I doubt you will lose any money should you decide the MF or SCUT size isn't for you. Offhand can't think of anything other than the control levers for the backhoe. There may be a service bulletin about the lever brackets, were prone to breaking. Drive it first. If the ergonomics are uncomfortable, try another tractor.

 

[rScotty]

Appreciate your reply. I think sub compact meets my needs. Newly acquired 3.5 acres w/ approximately 1.5 acres already sodded. Remaining 2 acres has been cleared w/ majority of pine tree stumps removed. Plan to use tractor / backhoe to clean up, rake, grade, and seed the remaining 2 acres. Also plan to establish small garden, fence, and shed foundation. Already have ex mark zero turn for established yard so thinking the used gc 1720 could be valuable. Please let me know your thoughts? Also considering a box blade to help clean up the cleared 2 acres but not sure if it’s the correct implement / approach bc of numerous sub surface and semi exposed roots. Thinking box blade could help level the ruts? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks you!

In that case, the subcompact would seem to fit. A couple of things in its favor are the 100 hrs - which I tend to regard as "proven" rather than used, reasoning that's enough time for any manufacturing errors to have surfaced and for the PO to have dealt with under warranty.

The backhoe is handy for doing home landscaping work. I'm older and so is my back. So ours BH gets used more for precise craning and lifting than for digging. A BH bucket is also hard to beat for working up the top soil of a small garden....especially if rocks or terraces are part of your landscape plan. Having a thumb on the BH doubles the usefulness.

Everyone should have a small box blade. They cost very little and can be handy - though I suspect you won't use it much after the first trial. They are still good to learn on and just about indestructible. Look around for a used one.
Common box blade features to look for are adjustable depth rippers and a flip up back cutting/smoothing edge. Don't get too large a box blade for the subcompact.

However, since you will have the stronger FEL, there is an option. The FEL loader bucket held at a slight angle - always less than vertical - and dragged backwards does most of what a small box blade can do & you can see it as it works. Adding a bolt-on tooth bar to the edge of the FEL bucket imitates the rippers of the box blade & is another handy tool to have.
Try backdragging on your ruts to see if it works. If not, the box blade is the next step.

I don't know Masseys well, but so far haven't found any negatives. That model has been around for over a decade and is simple in design - both strong pluses. The Iseki engine is known for quality.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[MarkMac]

My first tractor was a tiny subcompact, a 1979 Ford 1100, with a loader, and only about 12 hp. It punched above it’s weight, and would “outwork a few men”, but I still found it’s limits fast. It ran great, but the parts supply was very dry.

I ultimately sold it and got a new Kioti CX2510, which is a small subcompact, and it’s much more capable with only a slightly bigger footprint.

Time is relative, so 2018 doesn’t seem like an older machine to me after using a tractor from the 1970s.

 

[Rmart30]

It’s become a buyers market, so try to negotiate with the dealer.

Its getting better on the buyers end but not like it used to be. The non emissions units from about 2005-2013 are still pretty strong in pricing in most areas.
I have seen a few good deals on tractors. You just have to be very quick to get it before someone else does.

 

[Rookie22]

Hey there, I want to thank y’all for the advice. I pulled the trigger and went ahead and purchased the 2018 gc 1720 tlb. Quick question… as the dealer was putting the tractor on the trailer I noticed the left front tire was kinda kicked out and not on the same angle of the right front. When I brought it to their attention they expressed it was normal and not a concern. Could y’all please look at pics of the right front vs the left front and let me know if this something I should be concerned about. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

 

[Rookie22]

In that case, the subcompact would seem to fit. A couple of things in its favor are the 100 hrs - which I tend to regard as "proven" rather than used, reasoning that's enough time for any manufacturing errors to have surfaced and for the PO to have dealt with under warranty.

The backhoe is handy for doing home landscaping work. I'm older and so is my back. So ours BH gets used more for precise craning and lifting than for digging. A BH bucket is also hard to beat for working up the top soil of a small garden....especially if rocks or terraces are part of your landscape plan. Having a thumb on the BH doubles the usefulness.

Everyone should have a small box blade. They cost very little and can be handy - though I suspect you won't use it much after the first trial. They are still good to learn on and just about indestructible. Look around for a used one.
Common box blade features to look for are adjustable depth rippers and a flip up back cutting/smoothing edge. Don't get too large a box blade for the subcompact.

However, since you will have the stronger FEL, there is an option. The FEL loader bucket held at a slight angle - always less than vertical - and dragged backwards does most of what a small box blade can do & you can see it as it works. Adding a bolt-on tooth bar to the edge of the FEL bucket imitates the rippers of the box blade & is another handy tool to have.
Try backdragging on your ruts to see if it works. If not, the box blade is the next step.

I don't know Masseys well, but so far haven't found any negatives. That model has been around for over a decade and is simple in design - both strong pluses. The Iseki engine is known for quality.
Good luck,
rScotty

Rscotty, thank you for all your advice much appreciated

 

[airbiscuit]

When you get it home, raise the bucket and take pictures from the front so we can see both wheels in relationship to each other. I couldn't discern anything from your pics.

 

[IndyIan]

Hey there, I want to thank y’all for the advice. I pulled the trigger and went ahead and purchased the 2018 gc 1720 tlb. Quick question… as the dealer was putting the tractor on the trailer I noticed the left front tire was kinda kicked out and not on the same angle of the right front. When I brought it to their attention they expressed it was normal and not a concern. Could y’all please look at pics of the right front vs the left front and let me know if this something I should be concerned about. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Probably is nothing, it seems most(all?) tractors have some positive camber on the front tires. Pickup the front tires off the ground with the loader, and give them a shake in all directions, see if there's any play at all(should be none), give them a spin, maybe the one wheel did get a bit bent somehow? You probably would've noticed on the test drive. The axles are so short on our tractors that I don't think they bend very often?
Also with the tractor on the ground and off, lay a wrench on every nut and bolt you can. The wheels, and loader and hoe subframes all need a check every couple dozen hours for the first while, my tractor needed the tie rod ends tightened at the wheel at around 100 hrs. In short, if you feel something a bit loose or clunking or creaking you need to look things over. As you use the loader and BH you'll probably get some play in the pins, but keeping them greased every 10hrs should keep them happy for a long time.
Do you have a user manual? If not download one, it will give some tips for playing safe, and if you don't know, the loader and BH can drop with the tractor off just by someone moving the sticks. Keep your loader low with a full bucket, and find some threads here on safety tips. Go slow, try to go straight up and down slopes not across, and keep the rops up and your belt on, and you will figure it out.

 

[Rookie22]

Cool. Thank y’all for the immediate feedback. I will take better pics tomorrow and also proceed w/ your advice Indylan. I appreciate everyone’s advice. This is my first tractor and buying a used unit was a bit risky for me. Just wanted to be sure that this is not major concern that my ignorance may have overlooked. The feedback I’ve received from this forum is amazing thank you!!

 

[rScotty]

Yes, I see what you are seeing and have no idea why. In a perfect world both wheels would be the same - but it may mean nothing or maybe just how it is sitting. We need more info, go ahead and follow the good advice from Indyfan.

Use down pressure on the bucket to lift the front wheels off the ground.
Then support the front axle in a couple of places with the wheels off the ground so that you can then lift the bucket back up leaving the wheels off the ground. There should be a saftey on one of the bucket lift arm cylinders as well - ALWAYS use that safety, or something that does the same function to block the bucket up too.
Never trust hydraulics not to fall. Not all FEL buckets will stay up reliabily. Most do, but failure is immediate. And many will slowly leak down to sneak up on you while you are under there. You do NOT want to depend on the hydraulics to hold anything up while for any length of time while working on it.

Then as Indy says, after blocking things safely you can shake, photo, tighten, and check. Grab a square and see what you find. You may want to swap front wheels side to side and see if that changes things - in fact that's a good idea.

And congrats on your new tractor. It looks great.

rScotty

 

[Rookie22]

Rscotty, I can not thank you enough for your replies to a complete newbie on this forum looking for advice. Your willingness to provide such detailed advice to me is awesome. I really appreciate your guidance w/ regards to my questions regarding the box blade too. This was a huge purchase for me and just want to be sure I did not make a mistake by purchasing a used unit w/ potential problems. I know absolutely nothing about tractors but that offset wheel has me a bit concerned. Hopefully all is good and it’s nothing to worry about. Thank you

 

[dicktill]

Hey there, I want to thank y’all for the advice. I pulled the trigger and went ahead and purchased the 2018 gc 1720 tlb. Quick question… as the dealer was putting the tractor on the trailer I noticed the left front tire was kinda kicked out and not on the same angle of the right front. When I brought it to their attention they expressed it was normal and not a concern. Could y’all please look at pics of the right front vs the left front and let me know if this something I should be concerned about. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Hi @Rookie22, welcome to the forum, and welcome to the Massey Ferguson GC series "group".

There is an extensive thread in the Massey Ferguson Owning/Operating sub-forum called "What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY" which may be useful when you have the time to read it.

Regards, Dick

 

[rScotty]

Rscotty, I can not thank you enough for your replies to a complete newbie on this forum looking for advice. Your willingness to provide such detailed advice to me is awesome. I really appreciate your guidance w/ regards to my questions regarding the box blade too. This was a huge purchase for me and just want to be sure I did not make a mistake by purchasing a used unit w/ potential problems. I know absolutely nothing about tractors but that offset wheel has me a bit concerned. Hopefully all is good and it’s nothing to worry about. Thank you

You're welcome. I bet it is nothing, but lets find out exactly.

Now Be Safe. No fair turning the tractor over... or working on it with unsupported parts suspended in midair. And I hope you have somewhere flat and level.

A pair of jack stands for usine under the axle is $30 at HomeDepot, Walmart, etc....although some use a couple of sturdy blocks of wood & that is fine for most tractors - and certainly for a subcompact.

AND you will want a "front end loader lift arm cylinder safety prop" if yours does not already have one built into it as part of the loader. Some do and some don't, but all should.
Here is a photo; frankly the online price seems high but I include it to show you what it is.
You end up using that safety prop more than you think. It makes opening the hood to check and clean engine filters and such so much easier.

It is common to have a prop on only one cylinder. The prop can be a simple piece of angle iron or channel iron cut to length and a couple of straps to hold it to the extended cylinder rod. I'd say to go with something thicker than 1/8" wall iron just to be sure. If lighter, use one on both lift arm cylinders. Even a piece of strurdy lumber would be better than nothing. It does need to be strapped into place against the cylinder rod or risks popping free.
To use, raise loader to about 3/4 full height, insert prop, turn motor off, lightly feather the control to allow the loader to come down slowly until it traps the prop. Then examine what you have with a critical eye. Yes, one end of the prop often rests on the end of the cylinder...that's OK, just make it miss the seal.

Now you can examine that front end.
rScotty

 

[airbiscuit]

So, if I butterfly your pictures, are you saying the left wheel leans in with more camber? Or you talking about toe in?

 

[jyoutz]

You're welcome. I bet it is nothing, but lets find out exactly.

Now Be Safe. No fair turning the tractor over... or working on it with unsupported parts suspended in midair. And I hope you have somewhere flat and level.

A pair of jack stands for usine under the axle is $30 at HomeDepot, Walmart, etc....although some use a couple of sturdy blocks of wood & that is fine for most tractors - and certainly for a subcompact.

AND you will want a "front end loader lift arm cylinder safety prop" if yours does not already have one built into it as part of the loader. Some do and some don't, but all should.
Here is a photo; frankly the online price seems high but I include it to show you what it is.
You end up using that safety prop more than you think. It makes opening the hood to check and clean engine filters and such so much easier.

It is common to have a prop on only one cylinder. The prop can be a simple piece of angle iron or channel iron cut to length and a couple of straps to hold it to the extended cylinder rod. I'd say to go with something thicker than 1/8" wall iron just to be sure. If lighter, use one on both lift arm cylinders. Even a piece of strurdy lumber would be better than nothing. It does need to be strapped into place against the cylinder rod or risks popping free.
To use, raise loader to about 3/4 full height, insert prop, turn motor off, lightly feather the control to allow the loader to come down slowly until it traps the prop. Then examine what you have with a critical eye. Yes, one end of the prop often rests on the end of the cylinder...that's OK, just make it miss the seal.

Now you can examine that front end.
rScotty

The lii of deer prop is a good idea if you don’t have a shop with a substantial truss. I simply chain my loader bucket and arms to the shop roof truss.

 

[Williy]

Here's some problems and how to fix

2018 gc tractor 1720eb problems - Google Search

willy

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I dont see the difference. The photos were taken from different positions, angles. Park it on a level surface. Lift the loader out of the way, and look at it directly head on.
Like I've said. MAJOR damage would have to occur to CASTINGS to cause an actual issue.
This isnt the first time this question has been posted, and in each case, it was an illusion. You can't expect them to look the same, while taking a photo from two different angles

 

[IndyIan]

The lii of deer prop is a good idea if you don’t have a shop with a substantial truss. I simply chain my loader bucket and arms to the shop roof truss.

Do you back out of your shop? I could see myself driving away and the roof caving in behind me!

 

[jyoutz]

Do you back out of your shop? I could see myself driving away and the roof caving in behind me!

I do, but the raised bucket is enough notice for me to remove chains and lower the bucket after working on it.

 

[Rookie22]

I dont see the difference. The photos were taken from different positions, angles. Park it on a level surface. Lift the loader out of the way, and look at it directly head on.
Like I've said. MAJOR damage would have to occur to CASTINGS to cause an actual issue.
This isnt the first time this question has been posted, and in each case, it was an illusion. You can't expect them to look the same, while taking a photo from two different angles

Appreciate your advice. Thank you for reply