What implement(s) to repair and maintain two miles of gravel road?

[In.the.Piñons]

Now that you have the equipment sorted out, I have found these technical "how to" guides at the Center for Dirt and Gravel road studies to be very helpful. https://dirtandgravel.psu.edu/general-resources/technical-bulletins/

Mainly, it's a matter of figuring out how to divert water off your roadbed.

Some years ago, a number of guys built adjustable guide wheels for their rear blades to help them achieve a crown and more evenly grade their roads, but that doesn't seem as popular as they once appeared to be.

Thanks, that is very helpful info!

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Even with the rear gauge wheel addition, I still think that you should get the skid shoes. They help prevent gouging and after all, that gauge wheel is only in the center.
And again, learn how to use the draft control feature. Read the owner's manual and fully understand how to actually set the draft control feature. It will make the grading so much easier and better.

Thanks for the tips! On the subject of skid shoes, the blade that I purchased has been modified (see pic). I'm not sure if those vertical pipes, that have been bolted and welded on (where the factory shoes would normally go) are there to accommodate a different type of shoe? The dealer said they though maybe it was some sort of depth gauge. Any ideas?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Looks like they made mounts for regular round ones, common on lighter blades.

 

[2manyrocks]

Even with the rear gauge wheel addition, I still think that you should get the skid shoes. They help prevent gouging and after all, that gauge wheel is only in the center.
And again, learn how to use the draft control feature. Read the owner's manual and fully understand how to actually set the draft control feature. It will make the grading so much easier and better.

I didn't realize there were factory gauge wheels that were only in the center until I read your post and used the search feature. Then I saw one someone recently posted.

The gauge wheel setups people were adding to their dirt blades here used to be to add a pair of height adjustable swivel wheels.

But the OP's setup looks like the easier thing would be to add skid shoes to start with although I don't know the relative advantages or disadvantages of shoes v. wheels for this purpose.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Looks like they made mounts for regular round ones, common on lighter blades.

I did a bit of searching, but I think I'm going to have to wait until the blade arrives so I can measure the ID of that tubing to make sure whatever I order will fit.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I didn't realize there were factory gauge wheels that were only in the center until I read your post and used the search feature. Then I saw one someone recently posted.

The gauge wheel setups people were adding to their dirt blades here used to be to add a pair of height adjustable swivel wheels.

But the OP's setup looks like the easier thing would be to add skid shoes to start with although I don't know the relative advantages or disadvantages of shoes v. wheels for this purpose.

I've noticed that the trend seems to be a single wheel for 3-point attached blades and two wheels for the tow behind blades.

I guess that's a given though as a tow behind would just fall over with a single wheel with the blade raised.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

This looks like a very cool home made tow behind grader blade.
[edit] not a tow behind - meant to say 3pt

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Looks like they made mounts for regular round ones, common on lighter blades.

I would not consider 2582lbs a light weight blade. Round skid shoes with a round post is what Land Pride uses for all of their hydraulic actuated blades. The same as what are on my RBT45108.

 

[2manyrocks]

This looks like a very cool home made tow behind grader blade.

Very interesting. I've never seen anyone adapt wheels like that before. One of the problems with adding swivel type wheels, IMO, is they tend to be smaller wheels that can plow furrows in the material you've just graded. Using larger wheels like those in the YT video would seem to help with that, but the challenge is it takes an additional frame and axles not to mention it probably requires a larger tractor to pull it.

I don't think you'll can actually know if anything else would actually benefit you or just be a waste of time and money until you've had a chance to work with the plane and blade you've already bought.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Mine has brackets for L-shaped skids near the ends of the blade. Maybe yours also does?

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Very interesting. I've never seen anyone adapt wheels like that before. One of the problems with adding swivel type wheels, IMO, is they tend to be smaller wheels that can plow furrows in the material you've just graded. Using larger wheels like those in the YT video would seem to help with that, but the challenge is it takes an additional frame and axles not to mention it probably requires a larger tractor to pull it.

I don't think you'll can actually know if anything else would actually benefit you or just be a waste of time and money until you've had a chance to work with the plane and blade you've already bought.

Do you think that running a few passes with a LPGS would fix any furrows from the trailing wheel on the rear blade?

Also I'm assuming you're just talking about dirt work, right? It's not an issue plowing snow, or do you not need the wheel in the snow?

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Mine has brackets for L-shaped skids near the ends of the blade. Maybe yours also does?

Where those L-shaped skids attach to the end of the blade is where the previous owner of my blade welded & bolted on those vertical tubes. I.E. they used the bolts for the (factory) skids to attach said tubes. I can always grind the welds, undo the bolts, take off the tubes and replace them with the factory skids if need be.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Where those L-shaped skids attach to the end of the blade is where the previous owner of my blade welded & bolted on those vertical tubes. I.E. they used the bolts for the (factory) skids to attach said tubes. I can always grind the welds, undo the bolts, take off the tubes and replace them with the factory skids if need be.

That'd be what I'd do. At least I see no reason why the round ones would be any better than the OE L-shaped ones.

Okay, easier to install and remove I suppose, but using the cordless impact twice a year is no big deal to me.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Are the L-shaped skid shoes not adjustable for height?
Mine have 5 pin locations so that the cutting edge can be set at 1" or 2" above the ground, probably for snow removal or material spreading, at ground level or 1" or 2" below ground level.
Even having the cutting edge at 1" below grade, the blade will load up and start rolling material pretty quick.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Do you think that running a few passes with a LPGS would fix any furrows from the trailing wheel on the rear blade?

Also I'm assuming you're just talking about dirt work, right? It's not an issue plowing snow, or do you not need the wheel in the snow?

Yes, the LPGS will take care of furrows. I would simply run backwards and the back side of the rear blade will leave a beautiful finish grade.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Mine are adjustable by about two inches. The holes are slotted.

I've never thought of having them adjusted below grade.

 

[BackRoad]

Brian, every time I see photos of that back blade I'm impressed.

Not much in life gives me envy...'cept maybe that back blade!!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, every time I see photos of that back blade I'm impressed.

Not much in life gives me envy...'cept maybe that back blade!!!

That rear blade is probably my favorite implement, and I have quite a few implements.
I finally put 2 more sets of couplers at the rear of the tractor, so now I can have it all hydraulic.
I've had the offset hydraulic in the shop from day one, just never anything to plug it into.

 

[BackRoad]

THAT is a lot of plumbing!

Let's see...13...14...15...you must have 16 rear remotes!!!

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Are the L-shaped skid shoes not adjustable for height?
Mine have 5 pin locations so that the cutting edge can be set at 1" or 2" above the ground, probably for snow removal or material spreading, at ground level or 1" or 2" below ground level.
Even having the cutting edge at 1" below grade, the blade will load up and start rolling material pretty quick.

I don't have the implement on hand, but from looking at the manual, it looks like they are adjustable for height.