Rookie tractor buyer neds advice

[CaptPat]

I would echo that the quality of your dealer is at least as important as the brand. There are good/bad/excellent dealers in every brand it pays to shop around and ask other tractor owners in your area. Secondly, I would focus on the "bigger" names, Kubota, Deere, New Holland, and Massey parts will likely be more available as well as aftermarket options. Third, I think a subcompact may be too small, if not initially later on you might regret not starting with a compact (say 40-50 hp range).

 

[Mike1955]

I hate to say it but I have yet to find a fair dealer yet. I’m 69 years old. Maybe it’s my location where agriculture is not big. We call a dealership a stealership down here!

 

[2manyrocks]

Having a good local dealer is extremely important if you run into repair issues.

Huge difference between 25hp class and 40/50 hp class tractors when it comes to how fast you can mow and tractor stability on slopes in my personal experience.

I'd be curious to see a picture of what you describe as 3-4' elevation changes on your property.

 

[paulsharvey]

I think a Kioti CK2620SE Cab would be a great choice for 6 acres. Comes standard with dual rear remotes so you can run an offset flail if you want one. Get the third function on the loader to operate a grapple.

As an owner of the CK2610, I find that I wish I had the cash for the 35/40 hp version. Adding the cab, I dont know that I would go with the CK2620; but the CK3520 or CK4020 version.

Also, those 3 or 4 ft elevation changes that you want to level out (I'm guessing we don't mean level, but smooth, make more rolling than abrupt rises/drops?) when you look at the volume of dirt needing moved, HP and weight will be your friend. If it's sandy or light soil, 100%, something in the MF1825 or CK2620 will do the job, but it will be literal hundreds of hours. If you are dealing with basket ball sized rocks or larger, it's going to be hard to dig into that with the loader.

 

[Torvy]

^DK would be even better if you can swing the price difference.

 

[ChubbyButtNinja]

A little more advise, buy as big as you can afford now, and buy from a local dealer, especially being that this is your first tractor. If you were an experienced tractor operator and could work on your own equipment, I’d say buy from wherever, but you are a noob, so find a good local dealer and buy from them, even if it costs you more.

As far as implements, a decent set of pallet forks will get used all the time.

You mentioned working with Georgia Extension, so not sure where that is heading as for crops, but that could really dictate where you go with attachments. 6 acre wouldn’t be a hay farm, but could be all the ground you need for specialty vegetables or something on those lines. Give some more info and would be glad give some suggestions. Also, how clear is the 6 acres? If you have a lot of trees a grapple will always come in handy. If it is already cleared, you can probably get buy with the pallet forks for all your lifting needs.

Thanks.

The land is basically flat but bouncy if you get my drift. I'm going to have to do some dirt work to level it a bit. My wife loves the idea of hay but it's just not realistic on this much land. I was thinking maybe a mix of some fruit/nut trees and veggies. I saw there's a new variety of pumpkin engineered for the south that looked interesting. I'm going to be swayed by whatever is the most idiot proof. Maybe sweet potatoes?

 

[ChubbyButtNinja]

"Was initially going to get a subcompact and rotary cutter, but have felt like I should try to redeem the land and not just stare at shorter weeds on it." OP

you might be more detailed in what you consider "redeeming" the land, what that redeeming would involve. many have suggested in the forum that if extensive leveling, excavation is to be considered, sometimes it's more cost effective to hire the redemption out, then decide on an appropriate tractor.

if all you're considering is heavy brush hog work, then proceed as you are doing. in terms of rotary cutters, look to mid or heavy duty. certainly not a finish mower. consider 45-50 hp, L or MX series Kubota would be a good start. a 6' hog would be a good match.
regards, & welcome to the forum

Smoothing is a better word than leveling. I had someone who knows a lot more than me tell me I'm probably okay with a box blade. If something is just too big I'll leave it there. Once I have the place cut, I'll know a lot better what is and isn't there. I have the luxury of just giving up if I can't get it smooth enough. It's not a hobby farm - I do hope to make a little money - but it's not my main income source so I don't have to get everything I can out of every square inch. Paying someone to level the land would eat up 20 years of predicted profit.

My understanding is it was cow pasture so while the land may be wavy, I don't expect it to be horrible. I didn't see huge rocks when I walked the property but who knows what's under an inch of dirt. I know everyone loves their Kubota, but I just can't see how they still have that goofy pedal. I've had knee and ankle issues and have read too many accounts of people who just couldn't use it as they aged.

 

[ChubbyButtNinja]

As an owner of the CK2610, I find that I wish I had the cash for the 35/40 hp version. Adding the cab, I dont know that I would go with the CK2620; but the CK3520 or CK4020 version.

Also, those 3 or 4 ft elevation changes that you want to level out (I'm guessing we don't mean level, but smooth, make more rolling than abrupt rises/drops?) when you look at the volume of dirt needing moved, HP and weight will be your friend. If it's sandy or light soil, 100%, something in the MF1825 or CK2620 will do the job, but it will be literal hundreds of hours. If you are dealing with basket ball sized rocks or larger, it's going to be hard to dig into that with the loader.

Smooth is certainly the better word for what I have in mind.

 

[aesanders]

Pumpkins can definatly work well in the south. Knew a guy that ran a pumpkin patch in central florida. Had orange, white, green, and pink pumpkins ( not sure of variety). Had people coming from all over to pick the pumpkins. Had a great little side business going. It was leased ground and the property sold, only reason he stopped. He grew them on plastic like watermelons with micro irrigation. Would plant rye or oats in the winter time.

 

[big bubba]

Smooth is certainly the better word for what I have in mind.

agree, it can be done with box blade & hopefully with adj rippers.
sounds doable. tractor weight is just as important as hp esp in ground engaging applications. a 50 hp estate or utility tractor 4wd w/fel to me would fit the bill nicely. would also look at loaded rear tires
best regards

 

[jyoutz]

If you are smoothing the land to plant something, it’s hard to beat the combination of a box blade and rototiller.

 

[redman135]

OP, as you gain experience the 26hp tractor you are looking at will shrink on you. Look higher up the power scale, ie 35 - 50 hp. You did mention cropping of some sort is being looked at.
Loader : SSQA with 3rd service so you can use things like grapple and generally future proof the tractor. Retro fitting is expensive. NOTE when comparing the lift capasity, some are measured at the bucket pins, this gives a good LOOKING result, but is not real world accurate. Others will measure the capasity from about 1 ft in front of the bucket pins. This gives an honest real world lift capasity, BUT looks worse.

3 point hitch, recommend you get a quick hitch there as this will help keep you away from dust when chaging attatchments.
Rear hydraulic couplings: recommend you get minimum of 2, 3 is better (future proofing) ie 1 set for the hydraulic top link will leave 2 for what ever attchment is on the back.
Tractor, at your level of inexperience you will need a CLOSE dealer.
Gearbox: hydrostatic as this is the best option for your inexperience and you can put anyone else on it as well. Also 4X4.

Tyres" AG tyres(R1) not industrial (R4) tyres as these don't do very well in mud. (the standard tyre is R4 in the size of tractor you are looking at.)
Rims: Ag tyres usually have 2 piece rims which means you can widen the track for greater stability and saftey easily. R4 and turf tyres are usually 1 piece rims and can't be adjusted.

Try the tractor for size as the ergonomics are slightly diffferent for each. ESPECIALLY check that the seat at maximum upper travel does not ram you into the roof before it runs out of travel. If you don't have neck and spine problems ,then you soon will.
If you can get an air ride seat over mechanical spring seat.
NOTE: with a cab, get heat AND A/C as even in winter you can get to hot with all that glass. (I had a tractor with dead air con', it was called microwave for a reason. Cab temps were routinely at 100 - 110 F in summer.)

Lastly, we need more info on the soil type and intentions/ options to give more specific advice.

Some food for thought, good luck

 

[ChubbyButtNinja]

OP, as you gain experience the 26hp tractor you are looking at will shrink on you. Look higher up the power scale, ie 35 - 50 hp. You did mention cropping of some sort is being looked at.
Loader : SSQA with 3rd service so you can use things like grapple and generally future proof the tractor. Retro fitting is expensive. NOTE when comparing the lift capasity, some are measured at the bucket pins, this gives a good LOOKING result, but is not real world accurate. Others will measure the capasity from about 1 ft in front of the bucket pins. This gives an honest real world lift capasity, BUT looks worse.

3 point hitch, recommend you get a quick hitch there as this will help keep you away from dust when chaging attatchments.
Rear hydraulic couplings: recommend you get minimum of 2, 3 is better (future proofing) ie 1 set for the hydraulic top link will leave 2 for what ever attchment is on the back.
Tractor, at your level of inexperience you will need a CLOSE dealer.
Gearbox: hydrostatic as this is the best option for your inexperience and you can put anyone else on it as well. Also 4X4.

Tyres" AG tyres(R1) not industrial (R4) tyres as these don't do very well in mud. (the standard tyre is R4 in the size of tractor you are looking at.)
Rims: Ag tyres usually have 2 piece rims which means you can widen the track for greater stability and saftey easily. R4 and turf tyres are usually 1 piece rims and can't be adjusted.

Try the tractor for size as the ergonomics are slightly diffferent for each. ESPECIALLY check that the seat at maximum upper travel does not ram you into the roof before it runs out of travel. If you don't have neck and spine problems ,then you soon will.
If you can get an air ride seat over mechanical spring seat.
NOTE: with a cab, get heat AND A/C as even in winter you can get to hot with all that glass. (I had a tractor with dead air con', it was called microwave for a reason. Cab temps were routinely at 100 - 110 F in summer.)

Lastly, we need more info on the soil type and intentions/ options to give more specific advice.

Some food for thought, good luck

Thanks for all this.

I am getting pros to come talk to me about the soil but not for a while. It's Georgia so I assume it's orange. Maybe I should get a Kioti or Kubodo so it wont show the dirt lol.

That testing will ultimately drive what I end up planting. It could be even if I don't need a tiller for planting, I would want it for smoothing those elevation changes.

 

[Jimc295]

The number 1 repeated suggestion "buy from a local dealer" The dealer you purchase from can make your life miserable or he can be easy to work with. Unless you do all of your own maintenance you will need a good dealer. I've owned an old ford a new Kubota and a used Kubota and now a Massey subcompact. I think my Kubota's would be my favorite. One thing that just came up lately is those hydrostatic transmissions will not take the abuse a gear drive, I just had my Massy GC in for transmission failure. Something to think about.

 

[kenhar]

The "local dealership" doesn't always mean good. An older dealership is old for a reason. Ask about service. A lot of tractors have came on the market in the last 20 years. Like cars, some good, some not so good. Have you seen a used Yugo for sale lately? John deere, Massey, New Holland (Ford), Case (International Farmall) are the main stays. Kubota is a good new comer. Several new subcompact brands have come and gone. Their wares are like litter on the hiway. If you have one, better try to find a couple more for parts. Unless you are thinking "hobby farming", you won't be farming but just playing after work and week ends. Give some deep thought as where you want to be in 10 years.

 

[Sid Post]

Situation: Have somewhat accidentally ended up with six acres to maintain. Was initially going to get a subcompact and rotary cutter, but have felt like I should try to redeem the land and not just stare at shorter weeds on it. The land is “flat” but there are a lot of bumps and small (3-4 foot) elevation changes that I will try to level out some. I have asthma and need a cab, but our needs seem modest for the six-acres property where we’re going to try to keep a smallish farm. We don’t know what crops we will plant - we are working with the UGA extension team to figure that out.

A subcompact tractor is the wrong one for this application. I say this having used a Kubuto BX tractor with a mid-mount mower. The small tires were the biggest problem for me. Low traction and a really rough ride even in "good" pasture land. The B2601 did MUCH BETTER!

Today, I run a Kubota branded 4' rotary (AKA brushog) and a Land Pride 6' 3-pt mounted finish mower. That finish mower is the cats meow for mowing the yard around the house. On the three point, it lets me get under trees with scuffing up my tractor and tackles my friends big yard in under half the time it takes him with his Kubota BX mower. My tractor is 26HP with Hydrostat so ~19.5HP on the PTO which matters with the rotary cutting I do. 4 foot wide means ~5HP per foot of mower which is a good number for me. I have tackled weeds taller than I am with ease. In heavy flood out weedy areas that have dried, I can still bog the tractor down with this 4' rotary mower running Low gear and creeping forward.
Any less HP/Ft of mower would mean I would have to hire out this cutting task.

I have really liked Kioti and a big dealer gave me a quote on a CK2620 shipped to me. I've looked at and come close to buying used DK models. My local LS dealer has given me what seems like a great quote on the brand-new LS 226. I saw one dealer in Oklahoma has what seems to be a great deal on the TYM 4215 which I'm considering. I have gotten an okay quote on a Bobcat 2535 from a brand new dealer local to me but the attraction there is he's so local and we've done other business before so I trust him. I've visited a couple of JD dealers but their cab models are basically double my quote for the LS. Of course, I like the new tractor warranty but I'd be fine with a used tractor that has a good track record.

Which dealers are close to you? That being said today, my sister had a Kioti DK and to be honest it was a good tractor but, operating it was pretty tough on whoever was in the drivers seat. The loader bucket controls were also substantially below par which made smooth bucket movements hard.

Kubota loaders are super smooth operators and I can lift and curl the bucket (both hydraulic 'channels') at the same time. So smooth and easy to control.

Today, to be honest I'd buy a TYM tractor. Lots of quality at a better price than other options. In fact, I am debating selling my Kubota L-4600 which has a huge fan base for a slightly bigger TYM cabbed tractor.

Massey Freguson also makes a really great tractor if you have a dealer within reasonable driving distance.

I feel like as a total rookie it could be smart to get something bigger and more stable than I need. I can pay cash or finance and am making that decision based on how big the cash discount is.

Don't buy one too big to fit your barn, yard, gates, driveway, etc. Don't buy a subcompact either. In a pre-emissions tractor, 50~65Hp is a great power range in a modern UTILITY tractor.

Budget is max around $40k out the door with my starter implements.

I'm not sure what the cabbed prices are today for TYM options with all the inflation but, would get a mid-size TYM with cab with money left over for implements.

Would also be interested in two supplemental questions:
- What are the no brainer early attachments besides some kind of cutter and a box blade to help with the grading?
- Is a flail mower worth the upgrade over a rotary cutter, or put another way under what conditions would you splurge on the flail mower.

I use a land plan a lot more than box blade. Land Planes are awesome for smoothing out a driveway!

Flails don't eject things that will break windows and dent passing cars like a rotary will.

 

[Sid Post]

I really have been focused on 25hp machines due to price and avoiding the regen. 40hp machines have only come in play when there’s a great deal.

For example, the TYM 4215 is considerably less than the Kioti 2620.

Modern Regen tractors aren't that big of a deal today in NEW tractors generally. Sure, if all you do is mow your lawn, it will need to do a high speed burn to clear the catalyst system but that shouldn't be feared.

You can find new 40~70Hp tractors that don't regen or use DEF if that is important to you. High Pressure fuel systems help along with better new generation engines and essentially a catalytic converter.

 

[Sid Post]

Tractor House under 40Hp

 

[Redlined0002]

Hi. I’m new to tractors but am getting close to buying one. I am a total rookie.

Situation: Have somewhat accidentally ended up with six acres to maintain. Was initially going to get a subcompact and rotary cutter, but have felt like I should try to redeem the land and not just stare at shorter weeds on it. The land is “flat” but there are a lot of bumps and small (3-4 foot) elevation changes that I will try to level out some. I have asthma and need a cab, but our needs seem modest for the six-acres property where we’re going to try to keep a smallish farm. We don’t know what crops we will plant - we are working with the UGA extension team to figure that out.

I have really liked Kioti and a big dealer gave me a quote on a CK2620 shipped to me. I've looked at and come close to buying used DK models. My local LS dealer has given me what seems like a great quote on the brand-new LS 226. I saw one dealer in Oklahoma has what seems to be a great deal on the TYM 4215 which I'm considering. I have gotten an okay quote on a Bobcat 2535 from a brand new dealer local to me but the attraction there is he's so local and we've done other business before so I trust him. I've visited a couple of JD dealers but their cab models are basically double my quote for the LS. Of course, I like the new tractor warranty but I'd be fine with a used tractor that has a good track record.

I feel like as a total rookie it could be smart to get something bigger and more stable than I need. I can pay cash or finance and am making that decision based on how big the cash discount is.

Budget is max around $40k out the door with my starter implements.

Would also be interested in two supplemental questions:
- What are the no brainer early attachments besides some kind of cutter and a box blade to help with the grading?
- Is a flail mower worth the upgrade over a rotary cutter, or put another way under what conditions would you splurge on the flail mower.

I'm very grateful for any help.

DON'T BUY A KOREAN TRACTOR!!! THEY DON'T HONOR THEIR WARRANTY!!!!

 

[Torvy]

DON'T BUY A KOREAN TRACTOR!!! THEY DON'T HONOR THEIR WARRANTY!!!!

Fact Check: False