Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#141  
Yeah the ladder was about 2 rungs too short to reach the top, so I backed the truck in and it's tall enough from the bed :). I'm more afraid of heights than I realized. Apparently as you get older that happens? It bounces, is it too vertical, is it going to fall backwards, does it have too much lean, is it going to slide out from under me... ugh. I have no idea why some projects get to where I just decide to do it the hard way on principle.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #142  
I understand. I remember when I was in Junior High School, and my parents decided to put a new roof on a 2 story rental house that they owned. My brothers and I would time each other and race up the ladder with a load of cedar shingles to see who could do it faster. I remember doing it, but for the life of me, I can't comprehend that I was actually doing that!!!!!

We spent a week up there hamming in those shingles, and to the best of my memory, I remember thinking that it was fun. It's just so odd to be so fearless back then, and now to being so cautious about heights now.

I refuse to work on top of second story house if I have to climb a ladder to get up there. Just getting off the roof of a single story house gives me issues!!!
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #143  
Yeah the ladder was about 2 rungs too short to reach the top, so I backed the truck in and it's tall enough from the bed :). I'm more afraid of heights than I realized. Apparently as you get older that happens? It bounces, is it too vertical, is it going to fall backwards, does it have too much lean, is it going to slide out from under me... ugh. I have no idea why some projects get to where I just decide to do it the hard way on principle.

I'm usually pretty comfortable with heights. I have good ladders and being 24' up doesn't normally get a notice. But yesterday I rented a 50' tow-behind manlift to trim some dead limbs out of our larger Maple and Oak trees. At full extension up there in the treetops with a breeze blowing and the bucket swaying a bit as I leaned out as far as I could reach with the chainsaw to reach the highest branches I suddenly realized that I am not entirely immune to thinking of height issues. I lived though, so I guess (y)(y)
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #145  
So... apparently I'm cheap... Or it's the principle at this point... I'm going to do the stupid lights with what I have I guess...

View attachment 871865
That's a good idea if the ladder is good, stable & strong. I'd tie both top ends of ladder to rafter and it can't go anywhere.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #148  
Over the years I have acquired a dozen sections of 5' scaffolding with two sets of wheels and two sets of screw jacks. It has been one of my best investments. The reason for a dozen sections is the house at the farm has 28' eaves.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#149  
I have decided on building out some 8' tall "walls" inside the main structure of the shop. I want to be able to put some small shelves and hang things on the walls. I waffled back and forth and I think this will work best. I'm just going to frame normal walls with studs on 24" centers. The walls aren't really holding anything up so I don't think 16" spacing is necessary. I'll do a treated bottom plate and add a tie plate from the steel gerts to the studs in several places to keep them from falling over. Then I'll skin them with 1/2 flame treated plywood.

This will also allow me to use Romex and wire up outlets just like a house instead of having to use so much conduit. I'll still use conduit if I need the wire outside of the framed wall portion, I'll just use a J box at the transition where needed, to terminate the conduit and make the switch to Romex.

20240619_171633.jpg
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#153  
I started framing this weekend. First time doing this so it took a little while to get it all figured out and get some speed. I put studs on 24" centers since this wall is not really holding anything. I didn't think to take any pictures of how I connected it. I used Simpson "L" brackets from the studs to the center purlin and flat ties from the top purlin to the top plate. Spacing is about every other stud with ties on each side of the I beams and on the I beams when possible. Pressure treated bottom plate and I got some 5/16 concrete anchors that I'll anchor the bottom plate with probably very sparce spacing.

Next is mounting my recep boxes. I put up a run of 3/4 conduit from the panel, running along the ceiling, then down into the framed portion. I'm planning on running 4 - 110 circuits through that and mounting receps in 4 square boxes about every 6 feet with alternating circuits in each set so if i need to power 2 high amp draw tools I can use receps next to each other and not have a problem. Once I get the recep boxes mounted I'll pull wire and get it all ready to terminate then mount my plywood. I'm planning on mounting my receps with the bottom of the boxes at 4' so I just have to make 3 cuts on the top piece of plywood and no cut on the bottom one. Also, I'm only planning 110 on this side of the shop. I'm planning on putting a 220 on the other side of the bay door and another couple close to the panel so I don't have to buy a ton of 10AWG wire.

My plan with the plywood is mounting it horizontal the top of the bottom sheet being the bottom "cut" for the recep boxes. The top sheet will just have a horse shoe cutout for the boxes. That's the easiest way I can think to do it. I can mount the bottom sheet all the way around and just lean the bottom sheet up against it while the edge is still on the floor, mark the spot for the recep, then cut the opnening on sawhorses or something.

20240628_211922.jpg
20240629_214448.jpg
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #154  
Are you going to space the plywood off the concrete? Jon
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #156  
It's more important to have that space with sheetrock then plywood. The reason for doing so is to stop moisture from getting into it. With plywood in a shop, I don't see it as being an issue unless you have a lot of wet vehicles in there, and water actually getting to it.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #157  
For what it's worth my contractor friend as we were putting up OSB spaced it 1/2" up off the concrete. He said so it doesn't wick, OSB because drywall in a garage every time it gets bumped you have to patch.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#158  
Makes sense. Aside from a little more work I don't see an issue with leaving a little space. I'll factor that in. Probably just make a couple of blocks to use as spacers to rest it on while I nail the plywood.

Oh, I'm planning on just using some shorter nails in my framing nailer to install the plywood. Any reason not to do that?
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #159  
Most sheathing is done with 8d nails, IIRC, so yes, just use shorter nails in your gun.
 
   / Help Me Design/ Build a Shop #160  
I'm thinking my contractor friend has OCD. He nails up plywood to hold then goes back with deck screws also.
 

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