Replaced Fuel Tank

[JD-Beach]

The original plastic fuel tank on my 2006 PT-425 began to leak around the bottom hose fitting. I replaced it with a new aluminum tank purchased from Powertrac. I also replaced the fuel line and fuel filter and added a shut off valve (something that I've wanted to do for years). Not sure if I added these pictures correctly, It's been a long time since I've done this, sorry.

 

[JD-Beach]

I considered converting this to electric as some have done. I concluded that the cost is just to crazy, so I thought I'd stay with gas and go through a few minor fixes.

A few years back I gave this tractor to a business partner because he had a big piece of property and had more use for it. He passed away last year and his wife wanted me to take it back. So I'm back in the Powertrac family. I thought I'd fix it up and perhaps sell it if I don't get much use out of it.

 

[m5040]

That aluminum tank looks great. I'm sure a lot of members are thinking: Wonder what it cost?

 

[JD-Beach]

price ... $482. plus shipping ... a little pricey !

 

[ponytug]

price ... $482. plus shipping ... a little pricey !

Compared to tanks that I have priced recently, that is not too far off an aluminum tank for other applications.
(welcome back to the PT family!)

I have always thought that your conversion made for an interesting machine.

All the best,

Peter

 

[R Coz]

This is really interesting as I've been thinking it would be so much better to have an aluminum tank.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Wanting to do this for my PT1460 as my fuel tank is slowly rusting on the inside. To keep it from being a problem, I added another fuel filter prior to the duetz factory fuel filter.
I am not totally happy with my current solution.
Good to have you back!

 

[ponytug]

Wanting to do this for my PT1460 as my fuel tank is slowly rusting on the inside. To keep it from being a problem, I added another fuel filter prior to the duetz factory fuel filter.
I am not totally happy with my current solution.
Good to have you back!

Sorry to hear about having rust issues. To me a rusting tank has a lot to do with the diesel quality to begin with, and how the tank is refueled.

I believe @woodlandfarms, and others have had similar issues in the past.

How do you store your fuel? For the most part, I keep mine in metal jerry cans to minimize water absorption from the air.

You could also add a Racor water trapping prefilter on the fuel line. Since the Deutz engines recycle the excess fuel, so over time all of the fuel in the tank gets repeatedly filtered, that would help keep the tank drier. I would also try to keep the tank full, i.e. make sure that you refuel at the end of the day, to minimize air exchange day/night. FWIW: I have used a water block filter and a final two micron filter on diesel dispensers when I believed the purchased fuel might be less than great.

Por 15 worked well for me in the past, but I think that you have to be meticulous about the process, and the timing for it to be successful. For the 1460, I would be more tempted to take the tank to a welder and have them weld up a copy. Mostly though, I think it is about not letting water get into the fuel.

All the best,

Peter

 

[woodlandfarms]

Por15 in my rusty tank. Where we live with 50” of rain a year minimum you are always battling rust although it is not related, just condensation.

 

[MossRoad]

I considered converting this to electric as some have done. I concluded that the cost is just to crazy, so I thought I'd stay with gas and go through a few minor fixes.

A few years back I gave this tractor to a business partner because he had a big piece of property and had more use for it. He passed away last year and his wife wanted me to take it back. So I'm back in the Powertrac family. I thought I'd fix it up and perhaps sell it if I don't get much use out of it.

Welcome back stranger!

You were just mentioned a few days ago regarding the larger wheels and motors.

 

[JD-Beach]

Here's a view of the old plastic tank. The adhesive used at the outlet fitting is old and cracked. That's where the leak occurred.

.

 

[Modrob]

Here's a view of the old plastic tank. The adhesive used at the outlet fitting is old and cracked. That's where the leak occurred.


View attachment 863871.

View attachment 863873

I’d like to find one of those (even leaking—maybe I can plastic weld a repair) to replace the antique one that someone put on mine before we got it…

 

[m5040]

I use a product called Opti lube to remove any water from my diesel fuel. You may want to look into a fuel additive, it may have a side benefit of preventing rust?

 

[woodlandfarms]

You can plastic weld that bung if money is an issue. We have welded bungs like this a bunch of times common failure point and easy fix

 

[ponytug]

You can plastic weld that bung if money is an issue. We have welded bungs like this a bunch of times common failure point and easy fix

Any tips? I have a troublesome polyethylene tank that seems resistant to lasting repairs. I have tried cutting the old oxidized surface off before welding, broadening the weld area, embedding wire mesh and I'm not getting a lasting fix.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

Maybe due to a new gas or diesel mixture for emissions. Who knows what the latest chemical concoction is? Maybe there was a sale on benzene, toluene or xylene.

 

[Gravy]

Any tips? I have a troublesome polyethylene tank that seems resistant to lasting repairs. I have tried cutting the old oxidized surface off before welding, broadening the weld area, embedding wire mesh and I'm not getting a lasting fix.

All the best,

Peter

Oldish thread, but have you considered mechanically attaching a flange, somewhat like the way the filler neck is attached? Or a metal bulkhead fitting with Viton seal?

 

[ponytug]

Oldish thread, but have you considered mechanically attaching a flange, somewhat like the way the filler neck is attached? Or a metal bulkhead fitting with Viton seal?

Good idea! The crack is on two intersecting curves, well a col /saddle, but not an impossible shape to fabricate, especially with a rubber seal underneath. The crack is near the top of a cylindrical tank with round top shoulder, at a U-shaped reinforcing rib. The compound curves is why I originally tried embedding screening in the plastic and plastic welding through the screening.

I will think about what I can manage to fabricate here.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Gravy]

Good idea! The crack is on two intersecting curves, well a col /saddle, but not an impossible shape to fabricate, especially with a rubber seal underneath. The crack is near the top of a cylindrical tank with round top shoulder, at a U-shaped reinforcing rib. The compound curves us why I tried embedding screening in the plastic and plastic welding through the screening.

I will think about what I can manage to fabricate here.

All the best,

Peter

Somebody with a 3D printer might be able to help you if there is appropriate filament available.

 

[ponytug]

Somebody with a 3D printer might be able to help you if there is appropriate filament available.

Actually, that's a great idea, but I might do it with a twist. I can probably heat up a 3/8" plate and get it conformed to the curves and then bolt it in place after it cools.

More ideas to ruminate on. I might be able to plastic weld a brace across the rib. Hmmm...

All the best,

Peter