That's how the absolute bottom of the barrel, Chicago Electric AC one worked, but 99% of them do not send current without trigger pulled.Oh FFS !!
If it wasn't so dark out I'd go set the thing up again and try to run a bead on the hood of my car.
If it didn't work, I'm no further behind.
If I weld my hood, it's punishment for not thinking of that. I figured the trigger only ran the wire feed. No electricity.
In my defense, the manual is a very poorly translated document, and doesn't actually spell out things like that the way
a "welding for dummies" book might.
Hope that resolves it for ya, and heck man, don't feel bad, we're all human and nobody is an expert on everything (well, most of us commoners, at leastOh FFS !!
If it wasn't so dark out I'd go set the thing up again and try to run a bead on the hood of my car.
If it didn't work, I'm no further behind.
If I weld my hood, it's punishment for not thinking of that. I figured the trigger only ran the wire feed. No electricity.
In my defense, the manual is a very poorly translated document, and doesn't actually spell out things like that the way
a "welding for dummies" book might.
I think the majority of the old transformer MIGs kept the wire hot (my Craftsman does too), but my Yes doesn't, only when you pull the trigger.That's how the absolute bottom of the barrel, Chicago Electric AC one worked, but 99% of them do not send current without trigger pulled.
I though only BOTTOM of barrel old 70 AMP HF welder had a full time hot wire.... Guess if most people were no so cheap, they could get a decent welder with trigger control for weld voltage/current/wire feed..... This is why I try to stay towards the middle/upper end of cost/quality.....Kind of learned this working with power tools while doing fabrications for like 60 years now.....I think the majority of the old transformer MIGs kept the wire hot (my Craftsman does too), but my Yes doesn't, only when you pull the trigger.
One thing I learned, if a 110v welder claims much more than 90~100 amps output then it has to be run from a 30 amp circuit - which nobody has, without running a new circuit. At that point you might as well have gone with a 240 v welder and circuit.
Yeah. But there's a limit. 120 volts and 20 amps as input, 120 x 20 =2400 watts.... through modern electrical trickery and magic, they really are able to do a lot more with 120V machines then they could 15 years ago.
Didn't get a chance to try it yet, but happened to find out a girl I'm dealing with at work is also a welder.Oh FFS !!
If it wasn't so dark out I'd go set the thing up again and try to run a bead on the hood of my car.
If it didn't work, I'm no further behind.
If I weld my hood, it's punishment for not thinking of that. I figured the trigger only ran the wire feed. No electricity.
In my defense, the manual is a very poorly translated document, and doesn't actually spell out things like that the way
a "welding for dummies" book might.
Don't care, just take plenty of photos!!!!Now, will she use by tiny lunchbox welder, or an old school stick I have access to?
Try 'assembled here'. Made here and assembled here today have become intermingled under the term 'World Class Manufacturing'. I think you'll find if you delve deeper into it, that the majority of internal components are off shore sourced. More to the point of 'Inverter welders', there are no producers of IGBT modules here at all. All imported, 100%Yes it looks like Miller does use (some) cheap chinese parts in their welders, however 99% of the rest is made here.
I might add that refitting to DINSE style connectors is very easy. Many are sold online on Amazon and CK Worldwide also has them in any flavor you want. I tend to buy all my welding perhiperals at Weldfabulous (which is Mississippi Welding, in Winona. Mn and I get my tungsten from Midwest Tungsten in Chicago, Ill. Both have websites and you can buy direct from them.As far as items like DINSE connections, you won't find them on bargain basement entry level machines anyway.
You didn't read my post above, did you. Also I've noted in other posts that their welder listings are accompanied by an separate warranty offer, for example $40 for 4 years on a welder under $150. Does HF match that?...and my on going philosophy is... You buy a welder from say Vevor or from Amazon and it pukes or has issues, getting Amazon or Vevor to warranty it will become an exercise in frustration if you can even get warranty satisfaction at all.
I've returned numerous things to Amazon where the gamble of buying the cheapest, led to a return. No hassle at all.Amazon returns are extremely simple if something doesn't work as claimed in the listing.
Just fill out the form online, and return instructions are provided immediately. Drop off the item at a UPS store (or other Amazon-designated place) and the refund is issued as soon as they are notified it is in the shipper's possession. Easy peasy.
I just did this yesterday with a $20 bogus generic battery I had bought for the Arlo security cams that I use for outdoor critter cameras.
Certainly do and up to 3 years I might add. Understand something, I use them in a job shop atmosphere so not a hobby thing at all. Certainly is a heck of a lot easier dealing with a local HF store for warranty exchange that dealing with ANY online seller far as I'm concerned.You didn't read my post above, did you. Also I've noted in other posts that their welder listings are accompanied by an separate warranty offer, for example $40 for 4 years on a welder under $150. Does HF match that?
I've returned numerous things to Amazon where the gamble of buying the cheapest, led to a return. No hassle at all.
I like HF, been buying there since their mimeographed 'catalog' days. But Amazon's warranty exchange process is at least as good. This makes it practical to try out stuff that seems to be too good to be true, just send it back if it isn't as good as claimed.
My refund example prior to that bogus battery was the toy excavator Christmas present for my grandson, that I showed in a recent post. Turned out the geometry was so bad that the kid had to lean forward over the controls, making it near impossible to scoop anything. (Amazon link, their own video illustrates this problem). Full refund offered, and in this case they said keep it. I went and bought a similar one with steel levers that works as it should.
Nothing wrong with buying at HF but its also good to be able to try out the wide variety of stuff offered on Amazon due to their no hassle returns. (After considering Project Farm's and other customers' reviews, of course).
Buddy who has my truck (work space for me) called this morning and saidDon't care, just take plenty of photos!!!!Only want to check out her welds!