Horse fence question

[Ktm rider]

So , I’m building a fence for horses. Im getting the local sawmill to mill the boards for me. (Hemlock) My question is what should I treat the boards with? don’t want to use actual paint of course. I assume just a stain of some sort?

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

I would use a pre stain conditioner and stain all the boards prior to installation.
The pre stain conditioner is used only to prevent blotchy looking places on the wood.

I would call a local Sherwin Williams store and ask them for the best way to stain your Hemlock, if they the local store doesn't know the best way to get it done they will move it up the chain to get you an answer.
Sherwin Williams has always been a good resource for question like this.

 

[Wagtail]

Not so much for the initial treatment of the fencing wood but people around here will use old/used hydraulic fluid after a change.

 

[astrohip]

I say this with -zero- knowledge of Hemlock, so perhaps it requires some treatment that I'm not familiar with.

Having said that... I have about 5,000 feet of horse fencing, and I didn't do anything to it. No paint, no stain. I find that if you do anything to it, then at some point you have to do it again. And I have no desire to restain/paint that much fence. Most people around here that have horse fencing don't do anything. Some buy that white vinyl fencing, but all the wood people just let it be.

I have 4x6 posts, with four 2x6 stringers, all pressure-treated pine.

Pic...

 

[5030]

I wonder how long your wood fence will last in as much as horses love to chew on wood. We had draft horses for years and we used 4 strand high tensile wire with the top wire electrically charged.. Horses and wood don't get along too well as in they chew it.

 

[workinonit]

I had a horse years ago that came really close to eating her stall down. They love that glue in plywood and OSB. I tried all sorts of mineral blocks and additives but she preferred wood.

 

[astrohip]

Luckily, no gnawing at all in almost ten years. I did have one board kicked in half by a visiting horse, but other than that, no issues.

 

[newbury]

Having said that... I have about 5,000 feet of horse fencing, and I didn't do anything to it. No paint, no stain.

I have 4x6 posts, with four 2x6 stringers, all pressure-treated pine.

Pic...

Maybe he should pressure treat his hemlock.

 

[5030]

No more horses here. Horses are like boats. Boats are a hole in the water you pour money into. Same applies to horses. I'd rather have cattle or something you can eventually eat. I guess you can eat horses, I understand they do in Canada.

I used angle iron on the corners of the stalls, they cannot chew steel. They try though.

No cattle either now. I have all the pastures converted to hay production and I took all the fencing down and gave it away as well. Lots of 4x4 PT posts. The wire I cut in lengths and it went to the scrap yard, gave all the tube gates away too. I can make money on hay instead of loosing money on horses and the cattle was a PITA as well so now I just buy a side every year from the guy down the road and call it good. Comes processed, packaged and frozen for the deep freeze. Much easier, less hassle and cost wise, less in reality. My wife raised and bred Percheron draft horses. Was always a looser deal and the vet bills were astronomical. I like the 'gentle giants' but my wallet didn't.

 

[D&D]

So , I’m building a fence for horses. Im getting the local sawmill to mill the boards for me. (Hemlock) My question is what should I treat the boards with? don’t want to use actual paint of course. I assume just a stain of some sort?

I would use mineral oil or butcher block finish.
For me, I prefer hotcote. Had board fence and ended up replacing it all in ~10 years. Used marine grade posts and hotcote this time around. Like the overall appearance better Too.

 

[5030]

I guess living in the country and being a farmer, I (we) don't need the upper crust look of board fencing when high tensile is a lot cheaper, lasts an eternity and really requires no upkeep. The only place we have wood fencing is in front of the house and it's cedar rails and posts and it's for looks only.

If it works for the Amish, it works.

Have fun with your wood fencing and enjoy the upkeep as well. If you need a post hole digger, I have one for sale as I don't need it anymore. I want 150 bucks for it. 3 point Cat 1 with a 6" auger. Have a post pounder as well but I'm keeping it for now. Besides, it's a bit more than 150 if I sell it.

 

[zzvyb6]

So much for horse 'cribbing' as mentioned above. I'd like to share my experiences.
First of all, don't space your posts 6.0' or 8.0' or 10.0' feet apart. You'll regularly be replacing boards posts and the new boards that you find cheap may not be a perfect length. So space them at least 6" under. Lots of cheap boards under the dimensional length. And when it becomes time to change a post, you're not going to get the replacement in EXACTLY the same dimensional position. Been there.
Use red oak boards. When they dry out, your horses will prefer to chew anything other than cast iron. And I recommend screwing the boards in rather than nails because that facilitates replacement as well as assembly. If the boards are already dried out, pre-drill the holes for screws. They won't split at the fastener sites. BTW: some folks cut the post tops at an angle so water, ice & snow, visitors, and critters don't park on them.

Put the boards on the INSIDE of the pasture posts because when 'they' push on them, chances that they will pop them off the posts are much less. My township 'rules' demand that board fences have the boards on the outside, so either ignore them or put boards on the outside, too. If you cut off 6" from a board to fit it up, screw the cut off piece on the outside of the post. You now have boards on the outside. Township = happy.

Fence chewing is from boredom, not hunger, so give them a deck of cards or an IPhone or a beach ball to occupy their time. Maybe ride them occasionally...

 

[big bubba]

seems to me one should let the stock season out if milled green before treating
plus maybe easier to treat once installed?
in addition, a solid pigment stain has better UV protection than semi transparent, Olympic & Cabot are good stndbys

 

[astrohip]

When I ordered 2x6 16' long from McCoys, they were all 16' long. So we spaced the posts 8', and staggered the rails. No need to cut or trim, and certainly no need to space a post closer. If you're not getting the length you order, don't accept them.

Red Oak may be great, but it's not available in this area like pine is.

Good point on which way to face the boards. We did that on all the exterior fencing (inside of posts). We did have to figure out how to handle the fencing that divides pastures. Do we double face, or just live with it? We ended up living with it, and fortunately, our horses don't like to kick them down (other than that one visiting horse).

 

[Ktm rider]

Thants for all the advice. I guess I should have mentioned that in fencing off 35 acres and the majority will be high tensile wire. The wood fence is just in front of the house so it looks nice.

 

[astrohip]

So , I’m building a fence for horses. Im getting the local sawmill to mill the boards for me. (Hemlock) My question is what should I treat the boards with? don’t want to use actual paint of course. I assume just a stain of some sort?

Thants for all the advice. I guess I should have mentioned that in fencing off 35 acres and the majority will be high tensile wire. The wood fence is just in front of the house so it looks nice.

Yes, that would have helped.

So... the wood fence in front of the house, will it need to contain the horses also? Or is it JUST a house fence?

 

[riptides]

Thants for all the advice. I guess I should have mentioned that in fencing off 35 acres and the majority will be high tensile wire. The wood fence is just in front of the house so it looks nice.

How many strands? Or field fence and wire?

Make sure you have a lot of visual markers for the animals.

Personally I avoid wire of any type and horses.

 

[D&D]

How many strands? Or field fence and wire?

Make sure you have a lot of visual markers for the animals.

Personally I avoid wire of any type and horses.

With the hot wires, our horses don’t go near the fence. Pretty sure they hear it more than see it.

”100 people, 100 horses, 100 opinions”

 

[5030]

Thants for all the advice. I guess I should have mentioned that in fencing off 35 acres and the majority will be high tensile wire. The wood fence is just in front of the house so it looks nice.

I have a full 5000 foot roll of high tensile wire sitting in the shop I'll never use and you can have it for a minimal cost if you want it. It's on the factory spool and shrink wrapped as well. Have a couple solar chargers as well and various high tensile stand offs and wire couplers as well as the crimp tool.

Shoot me a PM if interested as I have no need for that stuff anymore. I also have the 3 point PHD I need to get rid of as well. Not gonna set any more posts ever. Tube gates are all gone but I still have the 4 stall Klene Pipe Structure barn in the field, That is free for the taking but it must be taken apart. It all bolts together btw. Nice horse barn with a tack room as well. In my way in my hayfield and needs to go, Like I said, it's free but must be taken apart. It's I think, 30 x 20 with a metal roof and skylights.

 

[CliffordK]

An acquaintance had tight weave woven wire fence, plus a single rough cut fir 2x6 board along the top. I'm not sure of the stain, but she put on a dark redish-brown stain before installation.

It looks sharp, and I believe has held up well.