Status of Everything Attachments

   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,285  
Well - it must be ground down in this part of WA state. All my electrical work passed inspection back in '82.
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,286  
The inspector wanted Ground Down at the Hospital...View attachment 855410

The provided photo show the hot lead on the right, the ground on the left. (This is also a 20 amp rated industrial receptacle identified by the T slot on the left) The ground side of a wall receptacle is also the larger of the two female receptacles on the wall plug in receptacle. The bottom hole on the receptacle is round and is the neutral safety. The round male protrusion on the plug in electrical cable is longer than the two other spade plugs. The ground is the larger of the two spade connectors on the plug.

Now I will let a electrical engineer explain why the round hole is on a wall receptacle.
Michael Craft
“Electrical Engineer at University of Dayton Research Institute.”
Why are there 3 wires in electricity plugs while neutral and ground wires are fundamentally the same?
With all due respect, most of the responses don’t really answer the OP’s question.

It all starts with the fact we want the metal chassis of a device or appliance to be connected to earth ground. Connecting the chassis to earth ground protects the user from an electric shock if there is a fault inside the device.

Now I know what you’re thinking: “The neutral is connected to earth ground back at the circuit breaker box. So why not connect the neutral to the device’s metal chassis?”

So let’s say you have a two-wire system (just hot and neutral) and you connect the neutral to the chassis. User is protected from shock, right? Not necessarily.

Let’s first assume you are “grounded.” This happens all the time. Perhaps you’re standing barefoot on concrete. Or touching a metal sink.

If there’s a break in the neutral line and you happen to be touching the device’s metal chassis, electric current will flow:
  • from the circuit breaker box,
  • through the hot conductor inside the walls of your house,
  • to the wall receptacle,
  • through the hot wire in the device’s power cord,
  • through the electronics inside appliance,
  • into the chassis,
  • through you,
  • into the earth (we are again assuming you are grounded),
  • through the earth,
  • to the copper rod next to the circuit breaker panel,
  • through the copper wire (that connects between the rod and the neutral bus bar inside the circuit breaker panel),
  • to the neutral bus bar inside the circuit breaker panel.
And the circuit is now completed. You will get zapped.

“I understand. But come on… how often does a break occur in the neutral line? Sounds like a very rare occurrence.”

A “break” in the neutral line occurs a lot more often than you think. In fact, a “temporary” break in the neutral happens all the time. Think about it… when you stick a 2-pronged plug into a receptacle, do you think the neutral always makes contact first? Nope - the hot and neutral prongs are the same length. So when you plug something into an outlet, 50% of the time the hot makes contact before the neutral! This means there will be a time span (typically a few tens of milliseconds) where only the hot is making contact at the plug/receptacle, and not the neutral. If the neutral were connected to the chassis, and you happened to be touching the chassis while sticking the plug in the receptacle, you’d get zapped (assuming you’re grounded).

So how do we get around this problem? By running a third wire that connects between earth ground and the chassis. In addition, we make the ground prong longer than the hot and neutral prongs. That way the chassis is connected to ground before the other two are connected.
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,287  
I will just stick with the small blade is hot, the larger blade is neutral and the "round" plug is ground and all my 120 volt tools and testers will be happy.
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,288  
The EA BBB went from D- to F!
2024_03_03_11.42.27.jpg
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,290  
Found this on another site.

”Alternate up and down. Bonus points if each box is rotated an additional 15 degrees so the receptacles spin in a circle as you look around the room.”
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,291  
HaHa that's a funny one...
Buyer protection on a debit card is much weaker than on a credit card. Plus, on a debit card, the money comes straight out of your account often leading to overdraft fees and other issues if the card is misused.
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,292  
Buyer protection on a debit card is much weaker than on a credit card. Plus, on a debit card, the money comes straight out of your account often leading to overdraft fees and other issues if the card is misused.
I said that because of how he worded it that debit cards are for people with marginal credit. If you follow his replies he has the best of the best...
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,293  
Buyer protection on a debit card is much weaker than on a credit card. Plus, on a debit card, the money comes straight out of your account often leading to overdraft fees and other issues if the card is misused.
I've been using debit cards since they came out (perfect credit BTW, so certainly not a case of "marginal credit" as some other poster inanely commented); Also have several CC's that get paid off after each purchase.

I've had my debit and CC numbers skimmed / scammed multiple times as I travel a lot and you'd be surprised how easily someone can get your card info at a gas station.

In any event, I've actually had more proactive protection and action from the debit card than the CCs, I'll get fraud alerts very quickly and its the same process from both when they catch it and correct, send a new card, etc.

To your point regarding overdraft fees, it's never happened to me in over 25 years, they automatically refund the fraudulent charges and I've never paid an overdraft fee of any kind.

Perhaps it all boils down to which bank you use & their policies, but my wife and I consistently use our debit cards without fear.

Sure, for big purchases, we use our CCs for the added insurances they provide along with the points / miles that we rack up, but for day-to-day items, I much prefer the convenience of tapping / swiping a debit card than carrying around stacks of cash. If my wallet gets swiped, I touch a button and my cards are frozen, but say goodbye to the cash....

For an online purchase of an implement, CC all day long
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,294  
The inspector wanted Ground Down at the Hospital...

Red signifies tied to emergency generator circuit and the green dot signifies hospital grade…
But those screw heads are not consistent and should both be prefectly vertical
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,295  
Enough with the AC/DC already! You can at least discuss an important subject... disconnect positive or negative battery terminal first? :D
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,296  
I've been using debit cards since they came out (perfect credit BTW, so certainly not a case of "marginal credit" as some other poster inanely commented); Also have several CC's that get paid off after each purchase.

I've had my debit and CC numbers skimmed / scammed multiple times as I travel a lot and you'd be surprised how easily someone can get your card info at a gas station.

In any event, I've actually had more proactive protection and action from the debit card than the CCs, I'll get fraud alerts very quickly and its the same process from both when they catch it and correct, send a new card, etc.

To your point regarding overdraft fees, it's never happened to me in over 25 years, they automatically refund the fraudulent charges and I've never paid an overdraft fee of any kind.

Perhaps it all boils down to which bank you use & their policies, but my wife and I consistently use our debit cards without fear.

Sure, for big purchases, we use our CCs for the added insurances they provide along with the points / miles that we rack up, but for day-to-day items, I much prefer the convenience of tapping / swiping a debit card than carrying around stacks of cash. If my wallet gets swiped, I touch a button and my cards are frozen, but say goodbye to the cash....

For an online purchase of an implement, CC all day long
I don't have perfect credit (it's in the low 800s) so I use a debit card because I want to. As good as cash at local establishments. For online orders, I use PayPal who has a liberal refund policy. It's just easier making direct payments and not having to fuss with later funds transfers to pay credit card bills.
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,297  
Enough with the AC/DC already! You can at least discuss an important subject... disconnect positive or negative battery terminal first? :D
Negative first, always. That way no spark if the wrench touches metal.
Now for more important questions, which sock to you put on first? :p
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,298  
The provided photo show the hot lead on the right, the ground on the left. (This is also a 20 amp rated industrial receptacle identified by the T slot on the left) The
Isn't the ground still on the bottom, neutral is the T slot?
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,299  
Negative first, always. That way no spark if the wrench touches metal.
Now for more important questions, which sock to you put on first? :p
People still wear socks?

I do the same as you, for the same reason but have been told it's wrong.
(I also do wear socks ;))
 
   / Status of Everything Attachments #1,300  
People still wear socks?

I do the same as you, for the same reason but have been told it's wrong.
(I also do wear socks ;))
I think whoever said it was wrong was wrong unless they can state a logical reason.
As for socks. all the time except in cheat grass season, but I still wear them when I go to town.
 
 

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