Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!

   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#181  
Wahoo! Bet you've got some early-spring weather feels down there also, eh? Get after it!
Yessir!!! Going to be 65 deg today. We are not out of the woods yet but generally this time of the year can be very pleasant around these parts. Perfect weather for milling.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #182  
Wishing you the best!

Sold big oak saw log to a local miller $100. Coveed my tractor use. Lot of free logs on marketplace really limit value for small lots.

Sun is warp enemy of fresh cut oak lumber. Tarps make mold. Drying shed that catches the prevailing wind is your friend. Sealing the ends even a little saves considerable waste from splits.

You’ll be relearning technology that was once common knowledge of different trees, wood types and best uses.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#183  
Wishing you the best!

Sold big oak saw log to a local miller $100. Coveed my tractor use. Lot of free logs on marketplace really limit value for small lots.

Sun is warp enemy of fresh cut oak lumber. Tarps make mold. Drying shed that catches the prevailing wind is your friend. Sealing the ends even a little saves considerable waste from splits.

You’ll be relearning technology that was once common knowledge of different trees, wood types and best uses.
Thank you fellow Tennessean! I can't wait to get started and learn everything the wood has to teach me.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #184  
Learn your mill, by that I mean the flow of the "process". Moving the quantities of logs, slabwood and boards on and off of the mill (efficiently) is something I'm still playing with myself.
This said noticing that you only have access to one side of the mill in your picture. (and that might work just fine for you)
A big congratulations to you on your mill!👍
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#185  
Learn your mill, by that I mean the flow of the "process". Moving the quantities of logs, slabwood and boards on and off of the mill (efficiently) is something I'm still playing with myself.
This said noticing that you only have access to one side of the mill in your picture. (and that might work just fine for you)
A big congratulations to you on your mill!👍
YES!! That is my next big goal, refine my processes so I am not getting in my own way. I have some ideas; log deck, slab rack, a bunch of precut stickers, all the tools i need onsite in a jobbox, etc. I don't have a ton of extra time to mill so I want to make it as easy on myself as possible. Since you mentioned the other side of my mill, there is about 5 or 6 feet over there before the slope starts. I am thinking about making a second log deck on that side is that something you millers think would be useful? I would have to roll the logs across the mill and onto the other side. But I could really load up with the logs then.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #186  
Congratulations on getting it going! I would do a few logs to get the hang of your setup, and once you have the routine down, I would stop to think how to make it more efficient (time/motion, etc.). Especially with a solo operator, I think small changes can really boost your productivity.

We once had a retired chef working for us as a ranch hand (he got tired of the people side of the business). It was fascinating and amazing how much more productive he made the rest of the crew by helping them plan and execute the work in the fastest, most labor saving way. I thought that there might be some resistance from the other ranch hands, but the other guys really seem to like being able to get more done in a day. I think that restaurant cooking is all about time/motion efficiency.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #187  
Yeah, I am sure wood chips behave a bit better in your drier climate. And I bet they are way less abundant by you. We have LOTS of trees here, a free load of chips from the tree service is very easy to come by.
We can get free wood chips from tree services also but I worry about bugs in the trees
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #188  
I have a couple of big projects coming up, 2 shed builds and a sizable addition on our house plus a few other projects I would like to do down the line. My wife wants a lot of wood accent in our house addition and I want to add a "timber frame" covered deck off the back once we are done with the addition. I am VERY tempted to pull the trigger on a sawmill to mill a lot of this lumber myself. I am leaning towards a Woodland Mill HM126 at about $4200 shipped with a bed extension. Seems like it could pay for itself in short order.

Yes I understand a manual mill is not fast and it is LOTS of work. But I have the space, I have the trees, I have a tractor, I have the money, I am only 49 and in good shape. Honestly, the only thing I DON'T have is tons of free time. But the way I look at it is if I set this mill up well I can go over there and saw a log or 3 per week, blow off some steam and have some nice lumber for my projects.

I have wanted a mill for a long time. I have a friend with a nice Woodmizer hydraulic mill about a mile down the road from me but we can never seem to make time to mill my wood, so I have pretty much given up on that. Which is why I want my own mill so I can just do it for myself.

The way I look at it is if I do not use it enough or I run out of projects to use it on I sell it for a small loss, but still come out ahead in the long run. This is something I have always wanted to try seems like now might be the time.

I'm late to the thread and have yet to get past page 1..... so pardon me if the facts have changed between page 1 and now.

I'm "up the road" from you (Greenback). Have some downed trees (primarily Tulip Poplar, if that's worth cutting) White Oak, some Red Oak. I'd be open to spend some $$ to have you come & cut some of this up. I can't bring myself to burning it however, if the Poplar isn't worth it, I might burn it (happens to the what I have the most of)

White Oak is from viewing above, about 24/28 inches diameter and the first 30' is straight without branches, then it bifurcates into two "10'ish" inch diameter, maybe 12".

I keep eyeballing that 30' beam!!
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #189  
YES!! That is my next big goal, refine my processes so I am not getting in my own way. I have some ideas; log deck, slab rack, a bunch of precut stickers, all the tools i need onsite in a jobbox, etc. I don't have a ton of extra time to mill so I want to make it as easy on myself as possible. Since you mentioned the other side of my mill, there is about 5 or 6 feet over there before the slope starts. I am thinking about making a second log deck on that side is that something you millers think would be useful? I would have to roll the logs across the mill and onto the other side. But I could really load up with the logs then.
Back when I was running my little Hudson Mill things that helped me were to have a log deck set up high enough on one side to easily roll logs onto the mill rails. I loaded the deck with logs with my little MF GC2300 tractor with bucket forks. I had a bottle jack between the rails at the cut start end to set the top end of log centered for height. Always kept a Peavey to roll logs handy and some other tools like axe and hammers.

Clear lanes to carry off cut pieces are a must. You don't want to be stumbling over things.

Once you get the rhythm of it it is rather amazing how fast you can slice up a log.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#190  
I'm late to the thread and have yet to get past page 1..... so pardon me if the facts have changed between page 1 and now.

I'm "up the road" from you (Greenback). Have some downed trees (primarily Tulip Poplar, if that's worth cutting) White Oak, some Red Oak. I'd be open to spend some $$ to have you come & cut some of this up. I can't bring myself to burning it however, if the Poplar isn't worth it, I might burn it (happens to the what I have the most of)

White Oak is from viewing above, about 24/28 inches diameter and the first 30' is straight without branches, then it bifurcates into two "10'ish" inch diameter, maybe 12".

I keep eyeballing that 30' beam!!
I am not mobile, sorry. I am sure there are plenty of guys between you and me that are though.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #191  
I am not mobile, sorry. I am sure there are plenty of guys between you and me that are though.
And there is always having someone else move the logs...
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #192  
HH, which side is your push handle on? Do you load logs with forks on your tractor? Which side is the log dogs on? Where is the discharge of the saw dust?

On my Timbery saw mill, I load logs on the push handle side. The logs dogs are on the opposite side, which is where the saw dust discharge is. So I roll a log off the forks onto the mill, the dogs stops it from going off the other side. The tractor is then parked on the handle side with the forks at a convenient height to load slabs or boards onto as needed. When the log is cut up, I move the tractor to where I am stickering the lumber for air drying. I put slabs on another set of base stickers for fire wood cutting. Jon
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#193  
HH, which side is your push handle on? Do you load logs with forks on your tractor? Which side is the log dogs on? Where is the discharge of the saw dust?

On my Timbery saw mill, I load logs on the push handle side. The logs dogs are on the opposite side, which is where the saw dust discharge is. So I roll a log off the forks onto the mill, the dogs stops it from going off the other side. The tractor is then parked on the handle side with the forks at a convenient height to load slabs or boards onto as needed. When the log is cut up, I move the tractor to where I am stickering the lumber for air drying. I put slabs on another set of base stickers for fire wood cutting. Jon
Yep, this mill is setup the exact same way. For now I am loading the logs with the tractor. The first thing I am going to mill are beams for a log deck. Seems like that will be better for work flow not having to get in and out of the tractor every time I need a log. I do like your idea of having the forks right there to collect the cut lumber. I will also probably build 2 racks very early on, one for the slab cutoffs and one for milled lumber. That way I don't have to fire up the tractor every time I want to mill. Thanks for your input! How do you like the Timbery?
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #194  
I have been happy with the Timbery saw mill. I have cut white and red pine, oak, white cedar, ash, and cherry for me and maple for a friend. Ordered in spring of 21, and received in the fall. Right now it is in storage inside the barn for the winter. Not sure what I will have to cut this summer. Maybe some dead ash.

I think the Timbery was one of a few that has a diagonal brace between the rails for stiffness. I don't want a log deck right next to the mill because I utilize the tractor forks to put the cut lumber and then transport to the base stickers for stacking the lumber. Then those stacks are moved away from the mill to their respective air drying areas. Some of my logs started in the 24 to 26" butt diameters. Tractor was necessary to handle them. Even had to use it for rotating 90 degrees. Myself on a pevee was not strong enough.

Right now I am using the kiln dried white pine for window, doorand baseboard trim in the unfinished new house. Some will also get built into cabinets for the laundry room and her craft room. So, the rough cut is just one phase. Now the finish sizing and milling. All enjoyable. Sorry for the thread hijack. Jon
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#195  
I have been happy with the Timbery saw mill. I have cut white and red pine, oak, white cedar, ash, and cherry for me and maple for a friend. Ordered in spring of 21, and received in the fall. Right now it is in storage inside the barn for the winter. Not sure what I will have to cut this summer. Maybe some dead ash.

I think the Timbery was one of a few that has a diagonal brace between the rails for stiffness. I don't want a log deck right next to the mill because I utilize the tractor forks to put the cut lumber and then transport to the base stickers for stacking the lumber. Then those stacks are moved away from the mill to their respective air drying areas. Some of my logs started in the 24 to 26" butt diameters. Tractor was necessary to handle them. Even had to use it for rotating 90 degrees. Myself on a pevee was not strong enough.

Right now I am using the kiln dried white pine for window, doorand baseboard trim in the unfinished new house. Some will also get built into cabinets for the laundry room and her craft room. So, the rough cut is just one phase. Now the finish sizing and milling. All enjoyable. Sorry for the thread hijack. Jon
No hijack at all, that is why I got the mill to make trim, flooring, faux beams, tounge and groove ceiling, shelving, etc. for our addition.
I hear you on the log deck, I plan on keeping the deck wide enough so the tractor can fit between either side of the deck. I hope that works. Time will tell.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#196  
Starting to get things dialed in. I wanted to build a log deck wide enough that would allow me access to the mill with the tractor, but I am not sure its going to work well. The way it is it doesn't allow me to put shorter logs on it. I might have to go with a log deck that does not allow tractor access as I feel like it is more important to have a log deck than it is to have tractor access. I will make the deck so I can lift it out of the way with the tractor if I need to get in there. I want a deck because I think it will be easier to have the deck loaded and show up and mill, rather than getting the tractor every time. Also, I do not love loading the logs on the mill with the tractor every time. I think you increase the chances of hitting the mill that way.
IMG_0288.jpg
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #197  
Starting to get things dialed in. I wanted to build a log deck wide enough that would allow me access to the mill with the tractor, but I am not sure its going to work well. The way it is it doesn't allow me to put shorter logs on it. I might have to go with a log deck that does not allow tractor access as I feel like it is more important to have a log deck than it is to have tractor access. I will make the deck so I can lift it out of the way with the tractor if I need to get in there. I want a deck because I think it will be easier to have the deck loaded and show up and mill, rather than getting the tractor every time. Also, I do not love loading the logs on the mill with the tractor every time. I think you increase the chances of hitting the mill that way. View attachment 852798
Could you use a log deck that sloped to your mill, so your tractor only has to get to the end of it? I've seen a number mills that were set up for a "gravity feed" of logs to a set of stops, and then a log was rolled over the final stop or the stop was removed for one log to move the log onto the mill.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it!
  • Thread Starter
#198  
Could you use a log deck that sloped to your mill, so your tractor only has to get to the end of it? I've seen a number mills that were set up for a "gravity feed" of logs to a set of stops, and then a log was rolled over the final stop or the stop was removed for one log to move the log onto the mill.

All the best,

Peter
It is not the rolling part, that is easy the deck is lightly higher than the mill. The main part is positioning it on the mill in the ideal position. Not easy to move these logs forward or backwards once they are set down. Also accommodating all lengths of logs from 6-16 feet.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #199  
Have you considered a small "gantry" type rolling crane to lift and move your logs from your stock stack to the mill table.
 
   / Want to buy a sawmill - Talk me out of it! #200  
It is not the rolling part, that is easy the deck is lightly higher than the mill. The main part is positioning it on the mill in the ideal position. Not easy to move these logs forward or backwards once they are set down. Also accommodating all lengths of logs from 6-16 feet.
This is from the Woodland Mills FB group and may solve your issue.

 

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