PT425 towing mode??

[Modrob]

I don't really understand what you’re trying to do here, a pic might help. Did you ever try the cable clamps? Like a miniature heavy duty muffler clamp. You could either collapse the eyelet onto the cable, or clamp it along side. Just a thought.

Sorry…I was sidetracked from the 425 when my TrailWagon broke a shift cable. I was trying my hand at soldering a barrel end on. (So far nothing but failures—I have two ordered, but…I still have to try LOL)
I had to cut off existing barrel end of a new cable and run it into the stock outer cable housing—it has the curved metal threaded end with two adjusting nuts. The cable goes into the side of the barrel. The barrel fits into a half round “rotor” on side of transmission for one direction. Another cable fits into the rotor as well for the opposite direction. The rotor rotates, pulled or pushed by the cable/shifter.

 

[Modrob]

Update: Friday I prepped the trailer, welded on a 12v winch, fashioned a power supply cable with a reversing switch. Grabbed an old fashioned chain hoist as well then headed out to get this thing loaded and back to the house. That little tow valve on the bottom of the pump? That sucker said “I’m not budging!” and then ate the end off my little screwdriver. Nothing worked, so desperate, I called the SHOP at 4:20 and Terry was there. He told me that the bypass hose would work fine when I mentioned mine did have the two ports. So…hooked up the winch cable and started to pull…it moved about 2 inches and the winch said “I ain’t doin’ that!” and would then drag to nothing…luckily bringing the chain hoist worked. The winch cable did hold while I cranked the hoist. Since the hoist only had about a 4 foot chain, I had to reposition several times. But lo-and-behold, I got it on the trailer. (I did remove the bucket earlier)
Got it home and later tried to start it with a big charger but still no good. It acts like it hints at catching but then just dead cranking. (Even with starting fluid) I am getting spark at the plugs…
Saturday I’m gonna pull the carb off again and go through it once more, and see what that brings
Thanks for keeping up.

 

[2manyrocks]

I would squirt fuel directly into both cylinders to see if it will fire.

Havent priced or tried any of the Amazon carbs for Kohler v twins, but the ones I've used for Honda and Briggs worked with less effort than cleaning and rebuilding the OEM carbs.

 

[MossRoad]

Glad you got it home.

On to your engine problems.

If you have spark, and you have starting fluid, and it pops but does not keep running, it's most likely an air/fuel problem. (thanks mr obvious).

Since you've gone through the fuel lines, filter, etc and have verified that fuel is getting to the carb, and nothing has changed inside the carb other than you think you got a batch of bad gas,

Check under your valve covers and see if the pushrods are moving the valves as you crank the engine with the starter.

 

[Modrob]

I would squirt fuel directly into both cylinders to see if it will fire.

Havent priced or tried any of the Amazon carbs for Kohler v twins, but the ones I've used for Honda and Briggs worked with less effort than cleaning and rebuilding the OEM carbs.

Good idea…
I took the carb off again and figured I’d go through it once more (plus the fact I learned after I’d reassembled it last time) and this time pull out the little “emulsion tube” and clean it. (When I was in it last, I noticed it sticking up with a little o-ring on top—tried to gently tug it out but was afraid to pull too hard, so I left it)
After rodding out the little passages I then noticed the top o-ring was split, so now I’m digging through old parts and even tried to thin one down…no luck. Maybe the parts place down the road will have one tomorrow. But I will order another carb—non-OEM ones run about 29 bucks and up. OEM? I need a second mortgage.

 

[Modrob]

Hmmm…from yesterday and before I took off carb again and have on bench…
Usually a hit or two of starting fluid and a good strong boost and this thing fires right up. However last few times I’ve tried, I don’t get hardly any “firing” while cranking with the fluid. It’ll pick up just a little as if it’s about to fire up, and then back to dead cranking. While I do see spark from both plugs with a tester plugged in to the boot, I wonder if it’s enough spark?

 

[SpringHollow]

Spark plugs are cheap - I would replace them just to eliminate one possibility. Sorry if I missed that you did. Did see that you cleaned them.

 

[ponytug]

Good idea…
I took the carb off again and figured I’d go through it once more (plus the fact I learned after I’d reassembled it last time) and this time pull out the little “emulsion tube” and clean it. (When I was in it last, I noticed it sticking up with a little o-ring on top—tried to gently tug it out but was afraid to pull too hard, so I left it)
After rodding out the little passages I then noticed the top o-ring was split, so now I’m digging through old parts and even tried to thin one down…no luck. Maybe the parts place down the road will have one tomorrow. But I will order another carb—non-OEM ones run about 29 bucks and up. OEM? I need a second mortgage.

A clogged jet can really mess things up, and a likely outcome of "bad" gas. With the fine holes inside an emulsion tube, it is certainly a likely place to "gum" up and give you exactly the symptoms that you are seeing.

At this point, if it were me, I would buy the non-OEM carburetor and see what happens. My bet is that it should improve things. I would also put a whole can of SeaFoam or equivalent in your gas tank when you refill it with new, clean fuel just dissolve any remaining gunk in your system and clean everything up.

Good luck,

Peter

 

[ruffdog]

Sometimes a reoccurring "almost starting" issue may be water in the fuel. The next time you drain the carb, look for evidence of water with the fuel like separation beads. I have seen it often that a loaned out machine stops running because it was refueled with a contaminated container.

 

[Modrob]

Couldn’t find a small enough replacement o-ring, so now I’m waiting on a new carb to arrive. (And the snow and cold to moderate )

 

[ponytug]

Couldn’t find a small enough replacement o-ring, so now I’m waiting on a new carb to arrive. (And the snow and cold to moderate )

Just out of curiosity, how small is small? (I think the new carb is a good idea, I'm just being inquisitive...)

All the best,

Peter

 

[Modrob]

Just out of curiosity, how small is small? (I think the new carb is a good idea, I'm just being inquisitive...)

All the best,

Peter

Hmmm…let me attach a pic and see if that helps…

 

[Modrob]

Well…Sat. Dec 23…Captain’s Log ()
Failure…again…
New carb installed, new fuel filter, new lines. No difference. Still will not start/run.
According to my inline spark tester, both cylinders are firing. I pulled plugs and cleaned (they didn’t look too bad.)
With heavy battery charger hooked up it’s cranking at good speed. If I add choke or spray in some starting fluid, it seems to “bog down” in cranking speed but then recovers in a couple seconds. Extended cranking with no choke or fluid and it starts to pickup cranking speed and again, sounds like it’s about to “get right” and start/run. But nope.
I’m wondering if it’s developed a timing issue? I believe mine is the Smart Spark system (has a little module mounted on side of one valve cover) and I believe only one magnet on flywheel that is comprised of two small square metal insets.
Arrrrggggg…

 

[Modrob]

Here is the spec tag which over time has become illegible but I think it is a CH25 and maybe an S added to it ? EDIT: closer viewing, could it be “725”?
REVISED EDIT: upon more investigation, I now believe the “725” part is from the FAMILY line, and on the next line I can make out “CH25s”

And the ignition module backside showing numbers.

 

[Modrob]

Here is a pic I grabbed off the net (not mine) but looks just like it. This pic doesn’t show the second coil unit on the right, and…my coil units have two spades/ two wires each…

 

[woodlandfarms]

I hate to even suggest this but we have had a kohler twin break the rods. It sounded like it was turning over but the pistons …. If you can check compression

 

[Modrob]

I hate to even suggest this but we have had a kohler twin break the rods. It sounded like it was turning over but the pistons …. If you can check compression

Compression…funny you suggested that…I did that today and ouch! One cylinder measured 90psi and the other barely moved off the zero—maybe 10psi? And…I drained off a little oil from the bottom, and it’s THIN. And smells like some gas in it… Not looking good at all…

 

[ponytug]

I believe that fuel pump has a diaphragm in it that often springs a leak and drains gasoline into the oil. Thin oil is one sign, but a more common sign is an overflowing oil pan/high oil level.

Good diagnostic work!

All the best, Peter

 

[Modrob]

I believe that fuel pump has a diaphragm in it that often springs a leak and drains gasoline into the oil. Thin oil is one sign, but a more common sign is an overflowing oil pan/high oil level.

Good diagnostic work!

All the best, Peter

Geez…I hadn’t thought of that—that bit of oil I drained was prompted because the level on the stick looked high. Doh! Thanks for helping me discover another clue.
(We have a fuel cutoff that we religiously keep shutoff when not being used, but I’ve felt for a while that it wasn’t completely doing the duty—it’s a heavier, metal lever/assembly thing. I’ve been meaning to replace it but all I keep seeing are the plastic ones that I didn’t think was as robust as the metal one…ouch!)

 

[MossRoad]

Merry Christmas!

I don't recall if you pulled the valve cover on the side with low compression. If so, ignore.

If not, pull the cover and look to see if the nut(s) that hold the rocker(s) haven't come loose and let the push rod(s) come out of place.

That happened to mine and it wouldn't start. No damage. I just put the pushrod back under the rocker arm and tightened the nut to spec.

As for the fuel pump... I had the same problem. I removed the valve cover, gutted the pump, added some fittings to suck vacuum, and installed an external vacuum fuel pump. Works great. I'll find a link to the process and post it.