Trouble disengaging front axle

[mcarlile]

I own a 2015 Kubota M6060 with FEL. Using the FEL, I need assistance from the front axle from time to time. When I want to disengage the axle it will not disengage. I have tried backing the tractor up, lifting the front end off the ground and spinning tires backwards and rocking the axle back and forth by hand to no avail.
My question, has anyone experienced this problem and how did you fix it.
I can eventually get the axle to free up and disengage but for what ever the reason this happens every time. I have had Kubota service to look into this problem without a permanent solution.

 

[RjCorazza]

Sounds like you have tried most of the tricks I am familiar with, other than shifting just before coming to a gentle stop. That's how I have disengaged the front axle on my last 2 Kubota tractors.
Perhaps checking the front axle oil and lubing the lever linkage?

Good luck!

 

[plastikosmd]

Turning the steering wheel several turns left or right w gentle pressure on disengage lever works well for me on my deere

 

[Fladogman]

Mine usually requires me to back up then pull forward.

 

[dstig1]

Yep. Back up/pull forward. Turn steering wheel while moving slowly both ways. One of those will do it!

 

[rScotty]

Usually being that difficult to shift out of 4wd is due to torsional stress built up in the drive shaft to the front axle. Sometimes - and especially if replacement tires aren't the same front to rear diameter as the OEM tires were, then it is wound up so much that the 4wd engagement gear in the transmission won't slide on its splines.

Does it get worse with a load in the bucket or driving any distance in 4wd? You've probably looked at the shifter to make sure it is OK?

I don't like the sounds of this. But am impressed that it hasn't broken. That is usually what happens with too much windup. I'm puzzled because lifting the front axle off the ground should loosen it. Or backing up. If those don't work, That just leaves something holding the 4wd engagement gear from sliding on the shaft inside the transmission.

rScotty

 

[Robin Veerman]

All good suggestions, and I do all of the above too, but never really an issue with my rig.
What lube is in the front right now? If it’s UTF switch to gear lube or vice versa…

 

[mdhughes]

I have always found that turning the steering wheel with pressure on the 4-wheel drive handle and letting the clutch out all at the same time seems to help.

 

[5030]

I don't like the sounds of this. But am impressed that it hasn't broken. That is usually what happens with too much windup.

Scotty... Keep in mind that Kubota employs a short coupling that is retained by a single roll pin between the output shaft and the input shaft on all FWA units and that is the failure point and is designed to be.

That coupling is just plain (not heat treated) steel and eventually the internal splines (that engage the shafts) wear out and it must be replaced and a good indicator of wear is the noise it produces as the internal soft splines jump over the heat treated ones on the shafts.

I just replaced one on one of my M9's a couple weeks ago and that part is readily available at your friendly (hopefully so) Kubota dealer and it comes with a new roll pin as well for the paltry sum of 52 bucks.

Easy to replace as well. Just remove the machine screws that retain the outer covers, slide one cover over the other to expose the 'sacrificial' coupling, drive the roll pin out with a suitable sized punch, and install the new one and add a bit of grease to the internal splines before installing.

 

[5030]

All good suggestions, and I do all of the above too, but never really an issue with my rig.
What lube is in the front right now? If it’s UTF switch to gear lube or vice versa…

On all my M's I run 85-140 GL 4 or 5 Hypoid (gear) oil always and when I got a new unit (have not bought a new unit in many years), I drain the front axle as well as the outboard gear cases (remember the outer's and the axle casting are separated by seals and must be drained separately and refilled with hypoid oil. The reason I do that is primarily for shock load on the front axle's gears because what I use them for tends to shock load the front axle and at least in my view, hypoid oil provides better shock load capability than UDT or SUDT does. Could be all wet on that but so far at 6000 hours and 4000 hours and 3500 hours on the third one, I've not had any issues with any of them that is gear related. Having said that, I did have to replace the right hand side outer hub seal on one because it started weeping but I suspect that was due to old age and a hardened seal more than anything else. That was on the 2002 unit.