Fixing a New Holland weld

[OFarrell]

How would fix this busted weld? This is the loader support bracket on a New Holland Workmaster 60. I think it's been broken for a while but I never noticed it.

I was thinking remove the loader and pull the bracket off the tractor frame so I don't have to weld upside down. I'll be using an old 200 amp Lincoln with .035 ER70S-6 wire and 75/25 argon.

 

[Rustyiron]

It might be worth a trip to the local welding/fab shop with a "heavier" welder, especially for this major load area. The last thing you want is to do this again. Oh, and I suck at vertical and overhead also.

 

[K5lwq]

I would clean it up and tack it really good while still mounted. Then remove for welding up solid. Slow and steady is the key here.

 

[Deleted member 371759]

Going to need to gouge the old weld out and re weld. Best would be stick or a few passes of dual shield mig.

 

[manac]

Go for it. Grind it out, crank up your welder and make a few passes. It’s not a critical joint, keep an eye on it and address it if it cracks again. Looks like the original weld didn’t have any penitration.

 

[Rustyiron]

I take this "loader support bracket" as the mounting of the loader "tower". If it is, that's as critical as it gets on a FEL. It'll make a huge mess of the bracketry if one side lets go and probably involve sheet metal and more.

 

[sea2summit]

I would also put some solid tacs on before removing it. Nothing more embarrassing than welding repair on a mounting bracket…then it’s no longer positioned properly.

 

[ARAYT]

No reason why you can't MIG weld it. Like others said tack it before removing, clean it up real good, turn it up to get good penetration and go slow. Take a good pause on the left and right sides of your bead. The main thing is penetration. A few passes over-lapping about 50% want hurt. I would also look at the other side and make sure it has good penetration. If you don't like the what you see you can always take it to a shop or have someone weld it in place. Good luck!

 

[BlueKnife]

No reason why you can't MIG weld it.

Biggest downside to MIG is lack of penetration with the machines commonly used by hobbyists/part time welders. A MIG machine that'll do that right costs $2000+ used. A stick machine that'll do it costs less than $500.

 

[ARAYT]

You are 100% correct and I agree. He referenced he was using a 200amp machine.

 

[etpm]

Biggest downside to MIG is lack of penetration with the machines commonly used by hobbyists/part time welders. A MIG machine that'll do that right costs $2000+ used. A stick machine that'll do it costs less than $500.

I have to disagree with you, that a $2000+ must be used to get proper penetration with a MIG welder. I have properly welded plenty of 5/16" inch thick steel with my 115 Lincoln SP125 PLUS MIG welder. By properly I mean the proper amount of penetration. The way to do this requires pre-heating the work before welding.

Eric

 

[BlueKnife]

I have to disagree with you, that a $2000+ must be used to get proper penetration with a MIG welder. I have properly welded plenty of 5/16" inch thick steel with my 115 Lincoln SP125 PLUS MIG welder. By properly I mean the proper amount of penetration. The way to do this requires pre-heating the work before welding.

Eric

Could be. I haven't tried that. Couple things though. One, preheating something like that is going to be quite the hassle, and two, I'll bet that tube is quite a bit thicker than 5/16. Anyway, as Arayt reminded me, the OP has a 200 amp welder, so he/she should be good to go.