'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[xyz123]

Like I said, not 100% certain. I need to peruse their website to find out for sure... I do see that Echo, like Stihl and Husky is pushing the electric (battery powered) saws. Not something I'm at all interested in except maybe a pole saw and certainly not a brush cutter.

I have stuff where husky did FI but never revealed. Never seen anything by echo that was sold for use to date or even tried.

So just like to see this.

 

[5030]

Went and looked and you are correct.

However they are 'pushing their battery powered saws' pretty hard as they are foremost on the 'products page' and interestingly, they now have a section devoted to robotic, battery powered lawnmowers. Not something I would ever consider and my personal opinion (only) about Husky and their plant closures and layoff's and going to battery powered lawnmowers (robotic and conventional push behind) is way off base. Just a personal observation and like you, I'm on the arborists website so I read and comment on there as well.

Least on there, political comments aren't removed.

 

[Skeans1]

It’s also going to depend on what you call a home owner saw, to someone cutting timber daily a 365 husky is a home owner saw. The big differences use to be weight, design, materials, power, and rpm’s. As far as computer controlled saws I’ve got a husky 562 that’s a first generation one and one of the first ones out here that’s never given me an issue in the 10+ years of service of running 32’s and 28’s. As far as new saws go you’d be hard pressed to get that 500i out of my hands unless something really takes a long bar like 60” then the real big girls come out. I still have both style of saws for different reasons but more and more I reach for the computer controlled saws it’s nice not having to adjust stuff constantly to keep the saws running at their best at all times.

 

[5030]

not having to adjust stuff constantly to keep the saws running at their best at all times.

All that takes is a 'diddle stick' and a few seconds time. Of course you do have to remove the EPA mandated limiter caps. Once I get mine 'tuned in', I rarely have to diddle them.

 

[CalG]

What saw is best for this use?
Pro or home owner type?

;-)

 

[5030]

I see someone way up there... Top handle arborist saw, your choice of brand, your choice of power.

 

[Hay Dude]

Been looking at used saws…..what people want for them is ridiculous.
I see saws that cost $599 new and they want $500 or $899 new and they want $750.

Who would take that kind of chance to save ~$100 bucks?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

This guy is a bit of a kook but he seems like he knows what he's talking about. I like watching some of his stuff. One of his big things is he likes the long bars for bucking, says it helps with fatigue by being able to stand more upright while sawing and is safer because your face is farther away from the bar if there is a kickback.

 

[5030]

He's not a kook, he's Canadian...lol and I agree and do the same thing myself. Better to be standing upright or close to it and let the saw do the work which, of course, requires a sharp loop. Only short bar saws I own are top handle pruning or in tree saws.

 

[CalG]

I see someone way up there... Top handle arborist saw, your choice of brand, your choice of power.

I used a Mikita battery powered 10 inch.
Nice and light, and very easy to start!

It took both batteries, The spare came up the tag line in a bag. ;-)

I can still feel that stem swaying when the top came off.

 

[ArlyA]

This guy is a bit of a kook but he seems like he knows what he's talking about. I like watching some of his stuff. One of his big things is he likes the long bars for bucking, says it helps with fatigue by being able to stand more upright while sawing and is safer because your face is farther away from the bar if there is a kickback.

If he get kickback, he's heading to ER.

 

[5030]

He's taken down and bucked more trees than you can count.

 

[ArlyA]

He's taken down and bucked more trees than you can count.

As have you I'm sure.

 

[5030]

As have you I'm sure.

Probably not. When I need tree work done I call one of my arborist customers with a High Ranger and have them do it and chip the limbs too. I rarely if ever buck anything. I will say that anything under 4" gets roasted unless it's too far away to get to the burn pile.

Buck'in Billy is a big fan of square cut chipper chain too.

 

[ArlyA]

Probably not. When I need tree work done I call one of my arborist customers with a High Ranger and have them do it and chip the limbs too. I rarely if ever buck anything. I will say that anything under 4" gets roasted unless it's too far away to get to the burn pile.

I don't care about buken billy but you are smarter, stronger and more experienced at flatulence.

 

[Skeans1]

All that takes is a 'diddle stick' and a few seconds time. Of course you do have to remove the EPA mandated limiter caps. Once I get mine 'tuned in', I rarely have to diddle them.

Yes it only take a few seconds but that’s also time that adds up when you’re paid by production when you run a saw daily that adds up quickly.

 

[Skeans1]

He's not a kook, he's Canadian...lol and I agree and do the same thing myself. Better to be standing upright or close to it and let the saw do the work which, of course, requires a sharp loop. Only short bar saws I own are top handle pruning or in tree saws.

What do you consider a short bar?

 

[5030]

From my "looking", Pro saws usually have higher grade internals. Up graded bearings, advanced cylinder porting/liners. Magnesium cases instead of alu etc.
I'm not sure about ignition components nor carburation. Seems like those would be pretty standard as far as price vs quality.

I'm looking hard at the 60cc Makita saw. (prograde) A lot of saw for $650.

Be careful with Makita saws and see where it's made at. Makita produces saws in Japan but they also produce saws in China. The Japanese saws are much higher quality and the price will be commensurate as well.

 

[5030]

Yes it only take a few seconds but that’s also time that adds up when you’re paid by production when you run a saw daily that adds up quickly.

I'm not and most posters on here (you are the exception, I guess) are not either.

 

[5030]

What do you consider a short bar?

14" for a top handle running applicable chain.