Dual Rear wheels

[JoeMahindra1626]

Hello I just found this forum and looks like a great place for information with me being knew to tractprs. I have a mahindra 1626 HSE that I woulkd like to put dual rear wheels on. I cannot find really any info on how to do it on the internet was wondering if anybosy has some info on kits rims what I would need. Thank you in advance. Joe

 

[big bubba]

Hello & welcome to the forum. be interested to hear on a sub compact that size why you feel you need dual rears? are the current rear tires loaded? also sounds very expensive for what you'll end up with given the tractor hp. what's the application? regards

 

[notaz3]

Curious how it could be pulled off; however, more curious why?
We apply dual tires to lower contact pressure to prevent compaction.

 

[jeff9366]

Mahindra 1626​

2018 - 1600 Series Compact Utility tractor

Series:

1626

Manufacturer:	Mahindra
Type:	Compact Utility tractor

Mahindra 1626 Weight
Hydro Operating:	2459 lbs 1115 kg
Gear Operating:	2437 lbs 1105 kg
Max Drawbar:	969 lbs 439 kg

Engine Detail
Mitsubishi S3L2
diesel
3-cylinder
liquid-cooled
Displacement:	80.43 ci 1.3 L
Bore/Stroke:	3.071x3.622 inches 78 x 92 mm
Emissions:	Tier IV
Power:	25.9 hp 19.3 kW
Fuel system:	indirect injection
Air cleaner:	dry
Compression:	22:1
Rated RPM:	2500

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Probably have to have some spacers made to bolt from one rim to the other. But, you may find some adapters already made.

 

[JoeMahindra1626]

I have 30 acres and it's crazy up and dwn. Use my auger a lot. Want them for more rear stability. Thank you for the help

 

[jeff9366]

As you have a Front End Loader on your Mahindra AND are new to tractors, you may be concerned with your tractor feeling tippy.

If this is so, rather than attempting to add dual rear wheels, cost effective solutions would be:

1) Add rear wheel spacers to spread your existing rear wheels.

You may be able to purchase 2 X 3" rear wheel spacers from Mahindra.​

2) Fill your rear tires 50% with liquid ballast to lower tractor center-of-gravity.

 

[2manyrocks]

Someone will always ask whether the axles on the tractor can take the stress of adding duals. It's not simply a matter whether you can find tires/rims/spacers to physically mount the duals.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

2) Fill your rear tires 50% with liquid ballast to lower tractor center-of-gravity.

Why only 50% vs. full to the top of the rim? It may help marginally with stability on a side hill, (and I'm not sure on that) but when using a loader, it would reduce stability compared to full ballast.

 

[LouNY]

It is fairly easy to dual up a tractor, it is expensive to do so.
Also the additional tires and width will add a lot of stress to your axles, hubs, and wheel bearings.
tractor dual wheel spacers - Google Search
Unverferth is a good source.

 

[jeff9366]

Why only 50% vs. full to the top of the rim? It may help marginally with stability on a side hill, (and I'm not sure on that) but when using a loader, it would reduce stability compared to full ballast.

50% fill gives the lowest center-of-gravity. Once fill is over 50% your are adding ballast ABOVE the axle.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

I have 30 acres and it's crazy up and dwn. Use my auger a lot. Want them for more rear stability. Thank you for the help

I am on 40 acres and have the same problem. When I could I drilled the holes with the tractor as level side-to-side as I could. If I couldn't get level enough, I hand dug the hole. My fences are wire, so most of the posts are T-posts. I am arthritic and 72 yrs. old and was digging the holes in 90+ degree heat.

 

[big bubba]

50% fill gives the lowest center-of-gravity. Once fill is over 50% your are adding ballast ABOVE the axle.

good point since OP is looking for lateral stability rather then just added traction

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

50% fill gives the lowest center-of-gravity. Once fill is over 50% your are adding ballast ABOVE the axle.

Doesn't make much difference if it is on the uphill side, until it's past the vertical center of gravity. by that time, the tractor has already tipped over.

 

[big bubba]

another good point. guess i'm not thinking outside of the box today
are programmable after market sensors avail to alert operator for a given tractor model & setup when slope reaches potential rollover?

 

[oldnslo]

Like lou stated duals should not be that hard to adapt to your tractor. I suspect band type would be the easiest. If you are carrying heavy loads on 3 point or constantly carrying most of the weight on the duals they will add stress to axles and bearings if just for stability not near as stressful on axles and bearings.

 

[JoeMahindra1626]

I'm not really worried about the cost
I have had some experience with spacers. Have them on my Maserati Qp and range rover SVR. MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE. but that said i bought what the engineers recommended. I was told by my deisel mech. That works on the tractor that the bearings and axles would be fine since I do not use it for heavy work. Just box blading and using my 12 inch x4 foot auger for fencing. I've done some searches and have really found nothing as far as kits ect. All the info is much apprcted. Thank you
Joe.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I found a set of new tires and rims on eBay for a reasonable price. ($600 + shipping) They were the same size as the rear tires on my tractor. I made my own "kit". I had the local steel supplier roll 2 steel bands the correct diameter (around 20") for my rims. I think they are about 8" wide. I made two loops that I bolted to my hubs and used 1" ready rod (all thread) with a hook on one end and a large homemade washer to hold the duals on. I found I had to use reverse thread on the right side as the dual tended to loosen off if I spun my tires.

The duals get used for stability. I mow a lot of ditches and it's nice to not be concerned with tipping over. You know your on the edge when you need to lift the mower slightly to pull the top wheel back down so you can keep moving.

I don't like the idea of spacers as my tractor is wide enough the way it is. My 955 was a lot narrower.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

another good point. guess i'm not thinking outside of the box today
are programmable after market sensors avail to alert operator for a given tractor model & setup when slope reaches potential rollover?

Don't I wish. I have some sloped pastures that make me a little nervous to mow and one section I won't mow because the bottom of the hill turn-around is on a side slope next to a fence. The other pasture has about 18% overall grade, but sort of steps down. I haven't even seen anyone publish a maximum safe side angle for any given tractor. That would be handy, then I could figure it out by myself.

 

[sandman2234]

I have built wheel adapters for 3 different tractors, and while I live in "flat Florida", I have regretted doing it on all three.
Ford 7710 4wd was the first, measuring 13'3" across the rear. When the axle broke, it was expensive!
John Deere 2555 only stayed on for a few weeks, haven't had any axle issues.
Ford 1100 4wd subcompact. Cute as can be with 6 tires, but when an axle breaks, they are hard to find. I had actually sold the tractor to a friend and he only drove it across the yard before it broke. He called me and asked if I had any axle trouble with it, and I said no, before he told me what happened. I felt really bad, and did some research, pulled a couple favors and got a new one shipped in for 1/5 of what the local dealership quoted him. He was happy at that point. He was looking at what it was going to cost to build one from scratch and it wasn't cheap!! (he owned a machine shop capable of doing it)
The duals may or may not have had anything to do with the axles breaking, but I resist doing it nowadays, as the costs far outweigh the advantage!
David from Jax
I used heavy wall pipe with ends welded on them, with the bolt hole patterns drilled in one side, and the other side drilled and threaded.