Stihl ms290 not oiling enough

[stumblinhorse]

I don’t think my MS290 oils the chain enough. I usually have a full tank of fuel and chain lube last about the same amount of run time. But seems as if the lube is now lasting longer and the bar is hotter than I would like. I keep my chainsaw impeccably clean so I don’t think it is clogged. But how much lube is enough? Definitely getting lubed but not as much as before. I believe short of replacing the pump, there is no way to change the flow. I use Stihl lube, not sure if lighter weight would be better. Still frosty in the mornings when I cut.

 

[Snobdds]

When it gets hot open the oil cap. If air rushes out then you know the vent is plugged.

If not that, then it's time to open the clutch side and inspect the pump and worm gear.

 

[5030]

Pull the drive sprocket and clutch drum and have a look to make sure the drive tang on the oil pump isn't broken. Unlike other saws, it's not adjustable for delivery.

 

[etpm]

My little Stihl saw was not delivering enough oil. Even when new it seemed to me like it was not oiling enough but apparently it was because the bar wasn't getting hot. Anyway, it got to the point where it was barely oiling the chain. And the bar was getting hot. Looking online for the fix made me think there must be another way. I called the local Stihl place and the guy told me that servicing the oil pump in my saw is hell. And expensive if I brought it in. He told me to pour out the bar oil and let it drip for at least a couple hours to get as much as possible out of the tank. Then add the same fuel my saw uses to the bar oil tank. Then start the saw with the bar off and watch for oil. After a little bit the fuel in the bar oil tank started flowing big time. So I dumped the remaining fuel from the bar oil tank, re-filled with bar oil, and the saw has oiled perfectly since. I don't know what was causing the flow restriction in the first place but the advice from the guy at the Stihl place was great.
Eric

 

[oldballs]

IIRC, there is a oil adjustment screw on the underside of the MS 290 body.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[stumblinhorse]

IIRC, there is a oil adjustment screw on the underside of the MS 290 body.

Cheers,
Mike

There sure is! It was all the way clockwise. I turned it all the way closed and back open. We’ll see in the morning cutting session if it is any better.

 

[stumblinhorse]

Ok that didn’t help. It is flowing out, just not enough. I need to thin it some. I mixed in some gas into the oil in the tank and that helps. But I will try a complete flush with fuel after this tank is empty and see.

 

[5030]

bar oil viscosity means nothing. You still need to have a look-see at the oil pump drive tang under the clutch drum. I would not thin the bar oil, to me that is a mistake.

 

[5030]

Interesting comment about the MS290. I have one as well and I see nothing on the underside that would increase or decrease oil delivery.

 

[stumblinhorse]

bar oil viscosity means nothing. You still need to have a look-see at the oil pump drive tang under the clutch drum. I would not thin the bar oil, to me that is a mistake.

Oil is pumping out. So I assume the pump is working. Took the bar off and ran the saw and oil comes out. It is near freezing temps here. Stihl Chain lube is thick.

 

[Snobdds]

Have you tested the vent yet?

You need air to enter the oil reservoir as oil and air leave the reservoir. Basic fluid dynamics.

 

[xyz123]

Interesting comment about the MS290. I have one as well and I see nothing on the underside that would increase or decrease oil delivery.

Well crap pic on 390 was to dark to see. Borrowed a pic from a thread on this done before.

Then info straight from manual.

 

[ericm979]

If the saw used to use a tank of oil per tank of fuel and it doesn't now, something is wrong. The oil filter could be partially clogged or the drive gear worn out or the pump itself worn out.

 

[5030]

Like I said, you need to pull the clutch drum and check the drive tang. Stihl's are noted for tang failure.

 

[Snobdds]

Like I said, you need to pull the clutch drum and check the drive tang. Stihl's are noted for tang failure.

No there not.

The first step with oil issues is always the vent. Start with the vent.

 

[deserteagle71]

Why I'm still holding on to my ancient Homelite Professional model saw. Came with a thumb-operated manual oiler in addition to the automatic one. When I'm cutting long-dead or fire-killed juniper that manual oiler gets a workout. But it sure cuts down on bar temperatures.

 

[stumblinhorse]

Have you tested the vent yet?

You need air to enter the oil reservoir as oil and air leave the reservoir. Basic fluid dynamics.

I ran for about 45 minutes of cutting and didn’t hear anything when I opened the cap. The pump is def doing something. So I am gonna drain the tank and flush it with some gas and then add a 1/2 tank of lube and run it and take it somewhere quiet to open it up.

 

[stumblinhorse]

No there not.

The first step with oil issues is always the vent. Start with the vent.

Definitely sucks air when I open the cap. I Put in a couple of cups of fuel and spews out to start and creates a vacuum. Where is the vent?

 

[Snobdds]

I ran for about 45 minutes of cutting and didn’t hear anything when I opened the cap. The pump is def doing something. So I am gonna drain the tank and flush it with some gas and then add a 1/2 tank of lube and run it and take it somewhere quiet to open it up.

Use diesel instead of gas...

 

[Snobdds]

Definitely sucks air when I open the cap. I Put in a couple of cups of fuel and spews out to start and creates a vacuum. Where is the vent?

Start at page 60...The vent is right by the chain adjuster.