Adding Model 75 Loader to John Deere 1050

[ToddRN]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

 

[bmaverick]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

You really need the TM1192 850/950/1050 service manual to route the hydraulics. There are certain items in the manual to pay attention to. If you need the manual, we have it on the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.

Your JD150 is really a Yanmar YM4300 in JD green paint. Built in the same factory in Japan too.

 

[bmaverick]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

There are both early and late models for these 3 machines too. This will impact how the hydraulics are routed.

I had put together this easy section for your tractor.

There is a person selling a flow control valve on eBay. Or you can make it yourself for our Yanmar/Deere compacts. The issue is, Deere has dropped support for these machines after the 2020 parts supply chain problems. Don't worry, the Yanmar aftermarket parts network has been around for 35+ years.

 

[ToddRN]

There are both early and late models for these 3 machines too. This will impact how the hydraulics are routed.

I had put together this easy section for your tractor.

There is a person selling a flow control valve on eBay. Or you can make it yourself for our Yanmar/Deere compacts. The issue is, Deere has dropped support for these machines after the 2020 parts supply chain problems. Don't worry, the Yanmar aftermarket parts network has been around for 35+ years.
View attachment 785517

View attachment 785518

I'm just going to be honest. I have no clue what these are or where they go on a tractor.

 

[ToddRN]

You really need the TM1192 850/950/1050 service manual to route the hydraulics. There are certain items in the manual to pay attention to. If you need the manual, we have it on the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.

Your JD150 is really a Yanmar YM4300 in JD green paint. Built in the same factory in Japan too.
View attachment 785512

Any chance you could post a link to the service manual in the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group? Thanks

 

[Harry in Ky]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steering?

 

[ToddRN]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steering?

No power steering.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Then all you need is the right valve, fittings, hardware, and some fabricating. It's not all that complicated.

 

[ToddRN]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steer

Then all you need is the right valve, fittings, hardware, and some fabricating. It's not all that complicated.

Thanks. I trust the advice I was given but was just looking for confirmation. Also I thought power beyond was for the rear of the tractor to run a backhoe or log splitter, etc.

 

[rScotty]

You are on the right track. The configuration you are explaining is fine. It sounds to me like you basically understand it. I will try to help be frugal, but make sure that when you get the two spool control valve that you buy one that has the Power Beyond Port - and be sure to pay the extra twenty bucks or so to get the power beyond adapter for that port.... sometimes it is a plug and sometimes it is a sleeve that goes inside.

So your two spool control valve will have 7 ports: Power in, Return, Power Beyond, and 4 cylinder ports.

You will power the three point from the power beyond port, and the return port must connect back to the transmission sump with minimum back pressure. It doesn't need to be a pressure line.

If I were buying that control valve, I'd probably look first online to see if you can get it from Surplus.com hydraulic division. I'd look for a name brand, probably Prince or similar. I'd get one with a detent on at least one of the spools, and match the gallons/minute to the 1050. Tractor Data says the JD1050 hydraulic pump puts out 7.5 gallons/minute (max) so a two spool valve in the 7.5 to 12 gpm would be perfect.

Check to see which type of hydraulic fittings you have on your cylinder hoses - you can usually get a control valve with that thread.

Don't worry about the flow dividers. Get the other stuff done first. We won't have enough info for that conversation until we know if you have power steering and if so what type it is and how it is plumbed in.

BTW, I think that JD 1050 is a fine tractor. I remember it being on my wish list back when they first came out. Congrats.
rScotty

 

[bmaverick]

Any chance you could post a link to the service manual in the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group? Thanks

Once you join, there are links at the top of the message board to enter the manual section. Very simple.
And you will find the parts network in the RESOURCE PAGE listings.

For you or anyone to join, our site is a great resource for anything built or engine supplied Yanmar machines.
If you don't want daily or constant involvement emails, then pick SPECIAL NOTICES only. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year something is sent out. This way, when you do have a need for the community or questions, you can search the message board topics or just post your question.

Many in the community are Deere, Cub Cadet, Yanmar, Komatsu, and other owners with Yanmar made equipment. Some are even retired Deere engineers and Deere diesel mechanics. Its exciting to learn from them the history and actions of our machines.

main groups.io Group

*Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.* **US models, Gray market models, Cub Cadet models, RK models, even our green siblings known as Deere's. ** *A valuable source for owners of Yanmar tractors.* * * *If you would like to join our group, then click on the +Join This Group button below left. *NOTE: A...

yanmar-tractor-owners.groups.io

 

[bmaverick]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

BTW, you photo taking is superb!

Please by all means show the finished work and setup in this thread. You will help so many more people!

 

[ToddRN]

BTW, you photo taking is superb!

Please by all means show the finished work and setup in this thread. You will help so many more people!

Here are some of the finished photos. Once I Got everything cleaned up and then painted I replaced all the short hoses on the loader. Once painted and I was ready to put the hard lines back on I wrapped them in wire loom. Wish I had taken some before photos. It had been sitting out in the weather for several years. Will post photos once I get it all together.

 

[Harry in Ky]

While that does look pretty sharp, in all honesty a loader is a loader is loader. Where this gets interesting is the choice of control valve, how and where it's mounted, how and where it's connected to the tractor hydraulics, and all that. That's the the part I enjoy.

 

[ToddRN]

While that does look pretty sharp, in all honesty a loader is a loader is loader. Where this gets interesting is the choice of control valve, how and where it's mounted, how and where it's connected to the tractor hydraulics, and all that. That's the the part I enjoy.

I've got a good friend that lives in Mt Sterling and works in Winchester.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Small world. I make that trip quite often. The closest Deere and New Holland dealers are both in Mt Sterling.

 

[rScotty]

While that does look pretty sharp, in all honesty a loader is a loader is loader. Where this gets interesting is the choice of control valve, how and where it's mounted, how and where it's connected to the tractor hydraulics, and all that. That's the the part I enjoy.

I like the hydraulics myself, but confess to also being fascinated by the mechanicals on loaders.

Having now had half a dozen loaders on various tractors I agree with you: Sometimes a loader is just a loader.

Our factory JD loader is that way and it has worked fine for decades. A couple of Yanmar loaders were made in Canada for Yanmar...not OEM Yanmar. And yes, they were little bit more nicely built than the JD. Plus they had much better cylinders - but still basically just a loader.

Now when I look critically at a loader the first thing I look at is not the loader but the way it attaches to the tractor. Hoping to see a full length subframe & lots of lateral support. Those help to protect the tractor and the loader both.

Then I look at the arm and cylinder pivot bushings for wear, replacability, grease zerks... that sort of thing.

Loader arms I don't know much about, unless I can see welds on the end cross tube and make a sort of educated guess on how heavy the tubing is. Which reminds me that I am biased towards good welding.

Moving forward. Cylinders. I check for hard chrome rods, thick tubes, connectons, and easy seal replacement. I like a combination of hoses and some rigid hydraulic lines.

Bucket pivots are a whole weird world. I never thought about them until noticing that some loaders have a complex system of parallel links to add mechanical advantage to the bucket motion. That is still relatively rare. Our Kubota has it, but the rest don't. Recently - in the last 15 years - loaders have been coming with some sort of quick change bucket attachment instead of just mounting pins to the bucket. That's real handy when they have it - especially the Skid Steer or JD quick attach types.

The bucket itself benefits from a bolt on cutting edge, rounded back, and reinforced top lip that doesn't bend. My own preference is for bolted chainhooks with backing plates rather than welded. And for some sort of bucket-level indicator.

Like I said, all of our JDs and a couple of imports were very basic and worked fine. Other than a full length subframe they had none of the extras. Cheap and functional. The Kubota M59 TLB loader is exceptional - but not perfect. I'm sure it cost a lot more, too.

rScotty

 

[ToddRN]

I like the hydraulics myself, but confess to also being fascinated by the mechanicals on loaders.

Having now had half a dozen loaders on various tractors I agree with you: Sometimes a loader is just a loader.

Our factory JD loader is that way and it has worked fine for decades. A couple of Yanmar loaders were made in Canada for Yanmar...not OEM Yanmar. And yes, they were little bit more nicely built than the JD. Plus they had much better cylinders - but still basically just a loader.

Now when I look critically at a loader the first thing I look at is not the loader but the way it attaches to the tractor. Hoping to see a full length subframe & lots of lateral support. Those help to protect the tractor and the loader both.

Then I look at the arm and cylinder pivot bushings for wear, replacability, grease zerks... that sort of thing.

Loader arms I don't know much about, unless I can see welds on the end cross tube and make a sort of educated guess on how heavy the tubing is. Which reminds me that I am biased towards good welding.

Moving forward. Cylinders. I check for hard chrome rods, thick tubes, connectons, and easy seal replacement. I like a combination of hoses and some rigid hydraulic lines.

Bucket pivots are a whole weird world. I never thought about them until noticing that some loaders have a complex system of parallel links to add mechanical advantage to the bucket motion. That is still relatively rare. Our Kubota has it, but the rest don't. Recently - in the last 15 years - loaders have been coming with some sort of quick change bucket attachment instead of just mounting pins to the bucket. That's real handy when they have it - especially the Skid Steer or JD quick attach types.

The bucket itself benefits from a bolt on cutting edge, rounded back, and reinforced top lip that doesn't bend. My own preference is for bolted chainhooks with backing plates rather than welded. And for some sort of bucket-level indicator.

Like I said, all of our JDs and a couple of imports were very basic and worked fine. Other than a full length subframe they had none of the extras. Cheap and functional. The Kubota M59 TLB loader is exceptional - but not perfect. I'm sure it cost a lot more, too.

rScotty

I bought the loader for 800.00 dollars. Once it is attached and completely up and running, all new hoses, connectors, control valve, paint, etc, I will have less than 1500.00 in it. It won't get a lot of use but I just couldn't pass it up. Everyone says that once you have a loader you will never want to have a tractor without one.

 

[rScotty]

I bought the loader for 800.00 dollars. Once it is attached and completely up and running, all new hoses, connectors, control valve, paint, etc, I will have less than 1500.00 in it. It won't get a lot of use but I just couldn't pass it up. Everyone says that once you have a loader you will never want to have a tractor without one.

Lots of rural people use their tractor more as tool for lifting and carrying. They aren't growing crops, just enjoying living remotely. The tractor is more for building and landscaping, hence the loader.

It's a little off that there is a whole industry built around adding loaders to machines built to pull things.
Gotta be a better way..... And a whole lot less expensive way, too.

 

[ToddRN]

I have been trying to find out the size of the high pressure hydraulic line coming from the hydraulic pump. I would assume it would be metric. It's not in any of the manuals. I even emailed the JD help site without success.