Better parking brake warning needed.

[jmc]

A TBN post from years ago was about occasionally leaving tools, chains, etc in the FEL bucket, forgetting about them, and then dumping the bucket. The poster suggested slipping an empty glove over the joystick as a reminder there's tools in the bucket.

Maybe all we need is a reminder-something-or-other to hang on the steering wheel when we set the brake.

 

[Oaktree]

A TBN post from years ago was about occasionally leaving tools, chains, etc in the FEL bucket, forgetting about them, and then dumping the bucket. The poster suggested slipping an empty glove over the joystick as a reminder there's tools in the bucket.

Maybe all we need is a reminder-something-or-other to hang on the steering wheel when we set the brake.

Might be a bit cumbersome if you're doing work where you're on and off the tractor, like moving stones or something like that.

How many here park their tractor in neutral with the brake on vs just leaving it in gear? I'm about 50/50 on that.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Print this & tape to steering wheel center

 

[Jstpssng]

Following! I do this more often than I would like to admit. Interested to see all of the possible solutions.

I don't understand why you use it if it doesn't stop the tractor.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

You could do this...they make these (search "12v light and buzzer") that you could mount somewhere, dash or on a bracket. 12v positive to one side (switched power, not battery) other side wired to a switch to ground at parking brake. Simple leaf or push button switch.

 

[W5FL]

Sometimes I think my tractor has too many nannies, but it will not move with the parking brake on. My old M6800 would run until you could smell the brakes with the parking brake on. My TYM T1104 seems to have learned a lot from Kubota and will not go using the power shuttle until the power shuttle in in neutral and the parking brake is turned off first.

 

[tmcj]

My Max 26xl will move easily with the parking brake set. The indicator light on the dash quit working several years ago along with the PTO and headlights indicators and I haven’t figured out why. I just made a habit of looking at the p brake lever or pedals before hitting the hydro pedal. It's no different than looking for the little indicator light. I guess years of running 1950's Farmall tractors without such lights and gadgets to remind you of these things taught me to actually pay more attention to the physical position of all of the controls more
than trusting an indicator light anyway.

 

[rScotty]

If the freaking E brake worked like it should we wouldn't need a better indicator because there would be no driving off with it on, right?

Right you are about the E brake.

No matter how I contort to get enough leverage to set either manual parking brake lever on the Kubota M59 I can easily drive off with it on. Don't ask how I know....

The JD 310 has a solenoid actuated E brake parking brake. For operator convenience, it's just a toggle on the dash. The brake has to be on to start the engine.

Then if I even make a move toward putting it in gear while the brake is still on, a warning horn goes off INSIDE the cab.

If I was to somehow ignore the warning warning horn, the machine still will not roll with the brake on.
Almost 100 hp, and it will not move one inch with the brake on.

rScotty

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Both of the tractors I've had used locking foot brakes for parking. The one on my old JD750 worked pretty good, but my Kioti wasn't real well thought out. There's a rod with a handle on it you need to pull up before you press the pedal. Trouble is, most times I need to set it my foot's already on the brake and that doesn't work so well. The handle on the rod tends to come off...I've got it JB welded on, hopefully that keeps it that way. I also had to rig up a return spring on the latch mechanism because sometimes it doesn't release.

On a similar note I've got to come with a reverse indicator light for mine...I'm always forgetting which I'm in when doing loader work. The fwd/reverse lever has a lot of slop in it so I don't think a plunger switch would work...maybe a magnetic one?

Wow! I would not want a tractor with a brake setup like this. Looking for a larger tractor, I will be checking this out on the TYM and Kioti I am looking at.

 

[scootr]

Disappointed. I got the motorcycle brake switch linked in this thread and took a look at where I might best anchor and connect it. Well crap!. Nowhere I see. The complete throw of the linkage is about 1/4 inch. It does not look like a promising mod on the MX5200.

 

[2manyrocks]

I received the motorcycle switch as well. The actual travel of the brake assembly when viewed from underneath the tractor is a fairly short throw. I think it would be possible to make the switch work under the tractor, but I decided to order another switch to mount on the top of the brake lever housing.

I also thought that I could just turn on the hazard flashers when I use the brake.

 

[LouNY]

I've gotten spoiled with the parking brake on my Branson 8050, it has a power shuttle and if the parking brake is on when you engage the shuttle it just flashes at you and nothing happens.
With the older mechanical parking brakes that locked the main brakes it usually wasn't a big deal, and the bigger tractors that have a Park position in the transmission are usually very secure and Deere actually built theirs so you could power the parking dogs out when needed on steep grades. One thing IH didn't do good. The tractors with a separate parking brake have very often not put warning devices on them to alert a person that it is on my IH 574 is a good example of that the engine and transmission can easily over power the parking brake band and quickly ruin it leading to an expensive repair. Many of the newer larger tractors such as the IH Puma series and many of the New Hollands that use a separate parking brake have a small lamp that if working will attract your attention, unless you are concentrating on other things such as squeezing through a narrow gateway or hooking up to an implement especially a towed one that you have almost no leeway on the drawbar pin. All those tractors can easily over power the parking brakes and that will cause expensive repairs.
It is surprising how easy it is to neglect to release a parking brake when getting in and out of a tractor several times a day.

 

[5030]

My old M6800 would run until you could smell the brakes with the parking brake on.

Interesting comment in as much as Kubota brakes are WET brakes, immersed in fluid. Park brake acts on the main brakes, via linkage. I believe you have a vivid imagination.

 

[crankshaft21]

A better parking brake warning is needed. The MX52 will walk away with the parking brakes on without braking a sweat. Happened twice now...
I'm thinking about adding a big flashing light. The tiny indicator in the cluster is nearly useless.
I'm wondering if anyone has made an improvement in this area.

I have a 2006 Montana 4320, it will not move with the parking brake on.

 

[jyoutz]

I don't understand why you use it if it doesn't stop the tractor.

Most parking brakes will stop an idle tractor from rolling, but will still allow the machine to move if power is applied. That’s the basis for this problem.

 

[tacticalturnip]

My old Deere 1025R and every lawn and garden tractor I've owned could roll right through the parking brake, so long as power was being applied. As @jyoutz says, it'll hold at idle, but anything more than that and they'd power through like Hillary Clinton with a cold in 2016.

I don't think I've done it to the Kioti as of yet, but I'm sure I'll get around to it.

 

[scootr]

I took a deep look at the P brake linkage and I observe very few cogs for the catch to set on. Consequently I was setting the catch on the first cog. Which we have noted will hold the idle tractor but not when it is under power. Now I am using much greater force to depress the pedal to the second cog when it will noticeably bog the engine even under power as expected.
I don't know what the solution is.
A. Learn to use it as designed stupid.
B. make a new cog with more teeth or add a cog smarty pants.

Also I think we can all agree the handle needs to be extended up where it is easier to reach and push at the same time.

 

[rScotty]

Most parking brakes will stop an idle tractor from rolling, but will still allow the machine to move if power is applied. That’s the basis for this problem.

That's the same as for the hand brake on our 2007 vintage M59. Last summer I decided to take a look at the hand brake system to see if there was some problem. Why was the hand brake so hard to pull but did so little? And could I mount a solenoid for electric control?

I disconnected one cable end to see if the cable was bound up - it wasn't. Then with camera, mirror, and calipers I looked at the mechanicial advantage. Basically there isn't much. Not nearly enough. Nothing was wrong, juat overly complex yet inadequate.

After looking at the photos for awhile I gradually came to realize that what I was looking at was an afterthought - almost certainly added sometime after the basic tractor was designed. Whatever box it checked wasn't one concerned with function.

All in all, the hand brake is more of a curiosity than a concern. If I want this tractor to stay put, I just put the bucket edge down firmly.

 

[rScotty]

I received the motorcycle switch as well. The actual travel of the brake assembly when viewed from underneath the tractor is a fairly short throw. I think it would be possible to make the switch work under the tractor, but I decided to order another switch to mount on the top of the brake lever housing.

I also thought that I could just turn on the hazard flashers when I use the brake.

The travel is short and always connected to the brake lever by an extension spring so that the brakes light will turn on even when the brake lever throw is adjusted for very little free play...but not pull the switch apart when adjusted for longer throw. Usually the spring comes with the switch.

rScotty

 

[scootr]

Another thought... I know danger Will Robinson!
The E brake works the meager anemic dash light. Can we not tap into that circuit with a bigger brighter LED warning light?