Doorman’s next big adventure

[Doorman63]

The issue with that is the snooping around zoning officials. You get caught, you'll wish you had complied and the 'Land of Lincoln' is noted for strict zoning codes among other unsavory stuff.

No real zoning. It’s all Ag around us for miles.

 

[Doorman63]

We’ve paid our 1/3 deposit and signed our contract for the shell/slab.

Slab work is supposed to start in February sometime.

5.5” slab with wet set post bases.

Plan is to have contractor excavate, set forms, I come in and do under slab plumbing and electric. He will then pour slab and set post anchors.

His time frame from start-finish is approx 3 weeks work time from excavation to finishing the shell. His quote does include a stone base for the slab. When he did a site visit we don’t expect more stone to be needed but IF it is he will pass cost directly to us and spread stone no charge.


Wife picked out the sectional door for the barn. Of course we know who will be doing the install!

 

[5030]

No real zoning. It’s all Ag around us for miles.

Keep on mind that there are different ag zonings as well. There is ag1 ag 2 and reserve ag. If I were you (and I'm not), I'd be checking with your local township officials before doing anything. Nothing worse than embarking on any project and then finding out you are not in compliance and have to demo what you did or pay a healthy fine.

Just so happens my wife is the chair of the local zoning board here so I get to observe the grief. here at least people think (wrongly) they can do whatever they want and that isn't the case at all.

Zoning protects property values and keeps the riff raff out. No one wants a mobile home next to a 300 grand house, at least not here.

The fines here start at 5 grand and go up, way up.

Just a word to the wise, nothing more.

 

[Doorman63]

Keep on mind that there are different ag zonings as well. There is ag1 ag 2 and reserve ag. If I were you (and I'm not), I'd be checking with your local township officials before doing anything. Nothing worse than embarking on any project and then finding out you are not in compliance and have to demo what you did or pay a healthy fine.

Just so happens my wife is the chair of the local zoning board here so I get to observe the grief. here at least people think (wrongly) they can do whatever they want and that isn't the case at all.

Zoning protects property values and keeps the riff raff out. No one wants a mobile home next to a 300 grand house, at least not here.

The fines here start at 5 grand and go up, way up.

Just a word to the wise, nothing more.

A few phone calls to find out the do’s and dont’s can’t hurt.

Thanks for the advice

 

[3gunr]

Glad my farm is in NE MO i can do whatever i want.

 

[ovrszd]

I highly, highly, recommend insulating under the concrete with 2" foamboard. I also highly, highly recommend installing hydronic heat piping in the floor. The piping will cost you $500-ish. Can't add later. By your descriptions this building will be an all season structure.

I'd also recommend the slab have poured footings all the way around the outside. Then 2x6 stud build the structure. Initially you will think that's too expensive. But after you pencil it all, especially since you are finishing the inside, you'll see that it's very competitive.

I'm a bit concerned about your insulation description. Everyone here says you will create a moisture problem within the structure if you spray foam everything. It's recommended to do 2" spray foam on the walls. Then blow in Cellulose or fiberglass R-45 minimum in the ceiling.

This is definitely a worthwhile project to assist your FIL and fulfill a long term need for your wife.

 

[Doorman63]

I highly, highly, recommend insulating under the concrete with 2" foamboard. I also highly, highly recommend installing hydronic heat piping in the floor. The piping will cost you $500-ish. Can't add later. By your descriptions this building will be an all season structure.

I'd also recommend the slab have poured footings all the way around the outside. Then 2x6 stud build the structure. Initially you will think that's too expensive. But after you pencil it all, especially since you are finishing the inside, you'll see that it's very competitive.

I'm a bit concerned about your insulation description. Everyone here says you will create a moisture problem within the structure if you spray foam everything. It's recommended to do 2" spray foam on the walls. Then blow in Cellulose or fiberglass R-45 minimum in the ceiling.

This is definitely a worthwhile project to assist your FIL and fulfill a long term need for your wife.

It’s hard to justify floor heat.
Typical winter use will be very sporadic. Under slab insulation has been discussed

Our ceiling will be exposed. The plan is to paint directly on the 2” of spray foam (white, dry fall paint) to keep the “house” side bigger feeling

I realize an air exchange system/dehumidifier may be necessary. Current plan is a mini split system of approx 12,000 btu with some supplemental heat in the bathroom. It’s what our current “barndo” on the property has and it seems to work fairly well.

 

[Doorman63]

This years “schedule” for father in law is as follows

Illinois-May thru mid June

Travel to Montana/Wyoming/etc June-August

Illinois- Sept thru early Nov

Florida-Nov thru April

Very sporadic weekend use of the “house” side of the new building the rest of the year.


Not sure how efficient slab heat would be for weekend use only.

Currently we drain all water, shut off hot water heater and set mini splits to their lowest temp (60) when we leave on Sunday.

 

[ovrszd]

It’s hard to justify floor heat.
Typical winter use will be very sporadic. Under slab insulation has been discussed

Our ceiling will be exposed. The plan is to paint directly on the 2” of spray foam (white, dry fall paint) to keep the “house” side bigger feeling

I realize an air exchange system/dehumidifier may be necessary. Current plan is a mini split system of approx 12,000 btu with some supplemental heat in the bathroom. It’s what our current “barndo” on the property has and it seems to work fairly well.

I understand the floor heat hesitation. I'll say, if you insulate the floor, definite lay the piping. But with your sporadic use, don't insulate the floor just so you can lay the piping. The insulation is the expensive part. Personally, in our location I wouldn't pour a slab with all season use intended without insulating it.

My BIL foamed his exposed ceiling. Friend of mine used a thermal camera and photographed it at night. The heat loss was significant. Closed Cell Foam has an R value of 5-6 per inch. So you will have an R value of 10-12. It needs to be 40-60. Insulation is the best return on investment you can do in an all season structure. A close second is good quality doors/windows.

The cost of an air exchange system/dehumidifier might be better spent in a varied insulation path. Maybe a builder will chime in. Can't remember the name for trusses that are "vaulted"? That might be an option to get a spacious feeling and still allow appropriate ceiling insulation to get the R value you need.

Mini splits have became much more efficient and are an easy to install system. I don't know about 12K btu for 960 sq ft of space. Maybe someone with more technical experience can address that.

I'm anxious to see what you build. Hopefully you'll keep us posted!!!

 

[ovrszd]

This years “schedule” for father in law is as follows

Illinois-May thru mid June

Travel to Montana/Wyoming/etc June-August

Illinois- Sept thru early Nov

Florida-Nov thru April

Very sporadic weekend use of the “house” side of the new building the rest of the year.


Not sure how efficient slab heat would be for weekend use only.

Currently we drain all water, shut off hot water heater and set mini splits to their lowest temp (60) when we leave on Sunday.

Slab heat is NOT efficient for sporadic use. Not at all. Changing the temp within a heated building by 1 or 2 degrees may take 24hrs.

You would need to fill the piping with an anti-freeze fluid of some kind.

In sub freezing temps it would take floor heat 2-3 days to stabilize to a livable temp (70F).