New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner

/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #1  

GalvestonWader

New member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
5
Tractor
Branson 3520 Kubota 7060
Hey y'all I'm a new member from Texas. I found this site doing research on tractors and it seems like a great source of information. We currently have a 2008 Kubota 7060 at our ranch that has been a good tractor. However, I just committed to buy a used 2017 Branson 3520R for my personal residence which is 8 acres. It's got under 300 hours and in really good shape. Comes with FEL, brush hog, disc, box blade, post hole digger and 75 gallon sprayer. I wont be shredding much with it, but there is some dirt work to be done and tons of trees that need to be cut up. I intend on getting a grapple to help with moving logs and brush.

I've been keeping my eye out for the right tractor for about a year now so when this popped up I knew it was a good deal. I don't have possession of it yet but should in about a week. Is there anything I should know about this model, or anything that needs attention? Any tips or tricks about this model y'all could tell me would be great. Also, can anyone recommend a specific grapple that works well with this size tractor?

Thanks in advance for any replies!
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #2  
Yes a few things, the DPF or diesel particulate filter( emissions filter) does not have a manual regen setting, this filter style works very much like a catalytic convertor on an automotive vehicle, it uses the heat from the exhaust to keep itself clean, so when your running it and putting it under load you will need to keep the RPM's in the green zone on the tach or else risk a plugged filter, now that being said a 1/4" drill bit solves this filter issue very readily, an lol smiley face or a circle pattern will do to keep it flowing inside. Drill it out and forget about it( this will keep the dash light on while you are operating the tractor but you wont have to worry about it)

your grease zerks on the FEL some of this on this year model have a habit of not accepting grease very well and may need to be replaced( the zerks are metric),

keep an eye on how hard you shift you range shifter as it is not synchronized you will have to stop to change ranges if you cant get it to go in smoothly let the tractor roll a bit to line the gears up and it will shift easily, if you force it you'll break the roll pin holding the shifter arm to the fork linkage and if that breaks ur stuck in whatever range you were in.

DO NOT operate the tractor under load in C range this is a travel range only on this model and you will damage the trans if u do work it in this range.

the emergency brake on this year likes to stick sometimes, if this happens drive forward as fast as you can and as hard as you can slam on the brake pedal this jarring motion should free them up.( not the prettiest solution but it works)

You can find crossover filters for the engine, however you will not find them for the trans as these filters are made by Branson for Branson equipment, some people will tell you they have found one that works ignore them they are risking their equipment to save a buck, the branson trans filters have a check valve in them that if its not present can damage your hydraulic system and cause premature pump failures.

i think this about covers the absolute need to knows, for this year and model if i think of anything else over the weekend I'll update this post Monday when i get back to the office, enjoy your weekend and enjoy your new Branson
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #3  
Welcome to TBN Wader.

There's iron and steel in Asteral's words. He's been a ton of help to us Branson owners.

IF (and I mean if) your DPF gives you problems, you can do as Asteral says, take it apart and drill out the inner filter. You can also completely remove it and put on a muffler instead.

Exhaust Mod on my 3725

But you may not ever have any issues with it.

Oh and post pictures when you get it home. We like tractor pics.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #4  
Welcome to TBN and congratulations on a nice tractor. Agree with the above and definitely don't forget the pictures.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #5  
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and enjoy the forum!
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the replies! I'm supposed to get the tractor home this Friday and will post some pics.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #7  
Welcome to TBN and tractor ownership!
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here's a couple pics. Tractor is in great shape. I've done some shredding with it and like everything so far. I also added some hooks and a new cutting edge on the bucket.

The previous owner is supposed to be sending me the manual. He said he last had it serviced at 150 hrs. It's sitting at 298 hrs right now. can y'all tell me the service intervals for fluid changes ect ect?
tractor.jpg
tractor2.jpg
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #9  
Looks like a nice tractor. I am sure you will be happy with it. I'd suggest you practice learning how to remove the FEL (not just the bucket but the whole thing). Mowing is so much better without the extra length, plus the ride is smoother. It is a few minute job to take off and to reinstall once you get the hang of it, but kind of a pain until you figure it out. I will bet that sun bonnet comes in handy in Texas!
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #10  
For service intervals check the shop manuals thread for a shop manual.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #11  
Welcome to TBN - congratulations on the tractor, looks nice with a lot of implements in the deal.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #13  
I too a
For service intervals check the shop manuals thread for a shop manual.
M new to TBN. However I was a BRANSON tractor dealer for a few years. I have and own all types heavy equipment. Cranes, dozer, excavators skid steers, large track loaders you name it. I've had Chinese compacts, and many of the major brands. My Branson 4220 is hands down the best compact tractor I've ever owned. Currently own it ( 08 model) and a Kioti NX4510C HST. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY Kioti. But Park them side by side both in the 40-45 horsepower class frame size and the Branson is built better hands down. Have your axles heavier housings heavier frame heavier loader frame and all that. Not by leaps and bounds but it is noticeable. My Branson does not have emissions but my Kioti does. No problems yet with the Kioti emissions at 402 hours.
Only purchase the Kioti with a cab over the Branson because the Branson cabs are noisy inside and the hydrostat.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I'm reviving this old thread. A couple more questions, what is the lifting capacity on this tractor. I found online it says 2,100 lbs at the pins, but what is the real life capacity for lifting something with the bucket and/or forks? Also, I need a grapple. I have a lot of brush and limb cutting to do and want to drag everything into a pile and then grab it with the grapple and haul to the burn pit. Can y'all recommend and quality grapple without breaking the bank?

The parking brake does give me problems. Going forward and yanking on the brake temporarily fixes it but it goes right back to dragging in no time at all.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #15  
So you would want the lightest grapple you can find. Stay with a 60'' or narrower grapple for weight saving =more usable lift. You have the A1700N4 Kukje engine 3 cyl I assume?, it is a mechanical injected low tech reliable engine. HST fluid every 500h, engine oil once a year or every 250h whatever comes 1st. Uses engine oil filter NAPA FIL1626 ir Wix 51626. I use Rotella T6 for better cold flow since I live in snowbelt. On the brakes, have you checked linkages not adjust wrong, lubed them up a bit so they return properly?
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #16  
I'm reviving this old thread. A couple more questions, what is the lifting capacity on this tractor. I found online it says 2,100 lbs at the pins, but what is the real life capacity for lifting something with the bucket and/or forks? Also, I need a grapple. I have a lot of brush and limb cutting to do and want to drag everything into a pile and then grab it with the grapple and haul to the burn pit. Can y'all recommend and quality grapple without breaking the bank?

The parking brake does give me problems. Going forward and yanking on the brake temporarily fixes it but it goes right back to dragging in no time at all.
I have the same lifting spec as you do (probably the exact same loader).

I have lifted round bales between 1400-1600 lbs, have lifted pallets of sand bags at 1600 lbs.

The lifting ability goes down as the weight moves farther forward of the pins, but I would expect you to be able to lift 1200-1400 lbs in almost any circumstance.

Make sure you have a heavy weight on the rear 3 pt hitch before doing any heavy lifting.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #17  
I'm reviving this old thread. A couple more questions, what is the lifting capacity on this tractor. I found online it says 2,100 lbs at the pins, but what is the real life capacity for lifting something with the bucket and/or forks? Also, I need a grapple. I have a lot of brush and limb cutting to do and want to drag everything into a pile and then grab it with the grapple and haul to the burn pit. Can y'all recommend and quality grapple without breaking the bank?

The parking brake does give me problems. Going forward and yanking on the brake temporarily fixes it but it goes right back to dragging in no time at all.

Are you absolutely sure you need a grapple?

There are numerous members here who like myself, use pallet forks to move around large brush piles (and many more things such as logs) and don't feel the necessity of a grapple.

While I would like a grapple someday, when I look at the cost of a grapple plus the cost of extending the hydraulics, it's something that's quite far down my list of attachments.

JMO.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #18  
Are you absolutely sure you need a grapple?

There are numerous members here who like myself, use pallet forks to move around large brush piles (and many more things such as logs) and don't feel the necessity of a grapple.

While I would like a grapple someday, when I look at the cost of a grapple plus the cost of extending the hydraulics, it's something that's quite far down my list of attachments.

JMO.
I don't see those as competing tools. Sure, you can use forks as a workaround for not having a grapple on some tasks. Unless you add a thumb to your forks, you will tend to lose brush along the way. The thumb also needs the 3rd function.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #19  
Regarding the sticky brakes, I believe those series were a bit problematic because for some reason they got rid of the zerk fittings for the brake pivot shaft that enters the transmission housing. Over time, moisture and dirt with create rust and start binding the shaft, causing the brakes to stick.

You may want to crawl under the tractor and soak those shafts with penetrating oil, work those brake pedals and hope the problem kinda goes away.

If you follow the linkage from the pedals, you'll find the shafts I'm talking about very fast.
 
/ New from Texas, and new/used Branson 3520 owner #20  
I got an EA wicked grapple (the long bottom tine type) for my 3725. It's been very useful, far more than forks. But it wasn't cheap when I got it and it's surely a lot more now. I'm still running it off a rear remote mounted on the fender.

I believe the loader rating, but that's at full lift. It will lift more than that lower down. I regularly move IBC totes packed full of hardwood splits with it. Calculated weight of Madrone or Tan oak would be ~2000 lbs for 1/3 cord of green splits + 100 for the tote + 300 for the forks or about 2400. I only lift this as high as needed to clear and never more than a few feet. If I do not slide the forks fully into the tote the loader may not curl. With a load out a bit from the pins such as a tote or a log in the grapple, often it's curl thats the limit rather than lifting.

Working the loader hard is probably hard on the front axle. But I need the stuff moved, so I'll deal with that if and when it happens. I check the axle oil level periodically and use gear oil. I made a modified breather so it does not leak oil on side hills. Newer models have the breather at the center of the axle where it belongs instead of the right steering knuckle.
 

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