new to me 03 century 2535
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tacticalturnip
Super Member
Does anyone happen to have a hydraulic pump laying around that can take pictures and measurements? I know the factory is 8.4 GPM, I'm looking at putting a 10.4 GPM@1800RPM pump on. I need to know what the shaft size of the factory as well as bolt pattern. below is a link of the pump I'm looking at.
lPUMP
lPUMP
ptsg
Super Member
It will most likely have splines with some odd number of splines at least. Typically, tractor manufacturers use some odd combination of shaft and mounting flange on hydraulic pumps that make it hard to find replacement aftermarkets or simply upgraded (bigger) pumps.
Simpler and cheaper router may be mounting the new pump in the front of the crankshaft and take the other one out of the equation.
Alright!
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
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Slowpoke Slim
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 3,919
- Location
- Bismarck, ND
- Tractor
- Husqvarna YTH24V48 riding mower, Branson 3725CH
Glad you're back in business.Alright!
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
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Hey Guys,
Quick question is there separate clutch adjustment for PTO and trans? or is the one adjustment for both? right now my clutch feels good and works great. but the PTO clutch does not disengage, it grinds with the tractor on going into gear. I went to a stump. pushed in the clutch with the brush hog still moving, let it spin down to engine idle. lowered it on the stump and it stops fine. but as soon as I pick it back up the PTO takes off again. so the clutch is dragging and not seized at least. I'm just not sure how much clutch adjustment I can do before the main clutch will start to slip. thak
Quick question is there separate clutch adjustment for PTO and trans? or is the one adjustment for both? right now my clutch feels good and works great. but the PTO clutch does not disengage, it grinds with the tractor on going into gear. I went to a stump. pushed in the clutch with the brush hog still moving, let it spin down to engine idle. lowered it on the stump and it stops fine. but as soon as I pick it back up the PTO takes off again. so the clutch is dragging and not seized at least. I'm just not sure how much clutch adjustment I can do before the main clutch will start to slip. thak
52wej
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2008
- Messages
- 268
- Location
- Central Virginia
- Tractor
- 2004 Century 2535 (3510 Branson equivalent), 2016 Kubota MX 5200
Per my operators manual on my 2004 Century 2535 you are supposed to have between 3/4 and 1 1/4" free travel on the clutch pedal. If you have too much it will not allow the PTO fully disengage.
Adjustments per manual:
1. Stop engine (remove key)
2. Depress clutch pedal slightly by hnd and measure free travel
3. Adjust free travel on the turnbuckle next to the clutch pedal.
Hope this helps. W. Jones
Adjustments per manual:
1. Stop engine (remove key)
2. Depress clutch pedal slightly by hnd and measure free travel
3. Adjust free travel on the turnbuckle next to the clutch pedal.
Hope this helps. W. Jones
TractorTYMe
Veteran Member
Nice you got the old beast working good! It should last you a while once you've caught up with the lack of maintenance done by previous owner!
Thanks 52wej, I probably have less travel than that. I will readjust it completely and see if that helps. It's not really an issue, I just turn the tractor off engage then on again. removed safety start switch from PTO lever. just an annoyance.
Ya, the tractors running great now. really just the head gasket and all the hydraulics were the issue. Last thing left to do is drain the front axle and refill.
Ya, the tractors running great now. really just the head gasket and all the hydraulics were the issue. Last thing left to do is drain the front axle and refill.
sorry, I didn't see this till now. I got it at reed and reed sales. this is probably one if the easiest heads to take off and put back.
Branson TYM Tractor Dealer | Reed & Reed Sales
Find your next Branson TYM Tractor, Mahindra Tractor, Spartan, Husqvarna Mower at Reed & Reed Sales. Conveniently located between Chattanooga and Atlanta, just minutes from Dalton, we offer the best prices on Branson TYM Tractors and farm implements, along with superior customer service.
www.reedandreedsales.com
I just looked and looks like they are sold out. might try calling and see if they can order one anyway
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I finally decided to bring the tractor home and do a full work up on it. New lights all the way around, engine oil, fix the 3 point cylinder leaking by and new hoses all around. Also put on some 2k flood lights, new seat, replaced front axle gear oil. Pulled the steering orbital valve off to get rebuilt as well. Went top to bottom and grease every fitting i could find. Replaced all fuses. New FEL cables, air filter. Degreased and cleaned the radiator plus flush and fill. That really needed it. Drained and cleaned the steering system. Fresh battery.
Surprisingly the inside of the trans looks brand new still.
Once it’s all back together this will be a 100% tractor. Yay!!!
Surprisingly the inside of the trans looks brand new still.
Once it’s all back together this will be a 100% tractor. Yay!!!
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Good to see that you're still working on it. I haven't started mine in months, and probably wont until Spring when I pull the sprayer. I'm not sure what else to do with it. I don't need it, but it's not worth enough to sell.
Cut open the wix filter for hydraulic. It had a spring at the bottom but no relief valve at the bottom like oem. I prayed it open with a screwdriver but not meant to come off. Maybe the whole filter slid down for the bypass. Either way this one made the hydraulic pump whine on really cold starts. Put the napa one on this go round. Will see how it reacts this winter. If you look at previous post i show the inside of oem.
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I have the same tractor. 2003 Century 2535 4x4, but without a loader. I bought it to bush hog my land when I bought it, and that's what it was mostly used for. Now I have a bigger tractor and a 12 foot batwing, so the Century just sits there.
I also have the issue with the 3 point bouncing. It's something I should fix one of these days, but it's way too far down on my list of things that I need to get done that it will probably never happen. Most of my issues have been electrical. I've removed almost all of the wires and have it down to the bare minimum.
I also have the issue with the 3 point bouncing. It's something I should fix one of these days, but it's way too far down on my list of things that I need to get done that it will probably never happen. Most of my issues have been electrical. I've removed almost all of the wires and have it down to the bare minimum.
