Nortrac dozer steering problem
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Bob Rooks
Elite Member
As usual, I can never find something when I'm looking for it. Must be on the other 'puter. Do you have the pendulum pedals or are your pedals on the floor boards?
My pedals are in the floor
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Ok, thanks. Just like mine. Will be on the other 'puter tonight.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Can't find the files. I'll try to create a new one.
Thank you I’m sorry for all the trouble but the steering needs to be better then what they have on them now. Other then that it does what I need it to do easy
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
It should be noted that the steering system on these machines will never be really great without a complete redesign. Even after Yuchai acquired the dozer from Guilin in the mid-nineties, the only changes have been to switch from an inorganic fibrous friction media to a bonded sintered bronze type disc.(They did try segmented lining on the brake bands but that was a flop). Because of the linkage design, pedal pressure requirements will always be high. The modifications I made to the system makes adjustments very easy, and significantly reduces pedal pressure requirements. The only caveat is that it will require considerable mechanical acumen because there are no step-by-step instructions. So if you want to reap the rewards of a challenging little project, I'll go ahead and recreate the drawing.
I’m willing to work on it, if it’s no trouble to you to send the drawings I’ll at lest will have something to work with and going by your knowledge I should be able to get my dozer steering solution repair thank you
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Meanwhile peruse this thread.
Just got a Nortrac 35XTD.. need some help!
So i took delivery of a Nortrac 35 XTD (with laidong 4L22-TA engine) i have been going over it and been doing some putting around getting use to it since this is my first dozer. I have some questions I'm hoping some other nortrac/yuchai owners can help me with before I get upset with northern...
www.tractorbynet.com
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Here it is as best as I can recall. You will have to do your own measuring. This configuration allows the brake band to be completely slack along with some mechanical advantage. The take-up rate with the cable and block is approximately 1-1/2 times faster than a direct linkage pull. This brings the sequence more in line with what it was intended to do.
Just so you know, I did work up drawings for hydraulic, pneumatic, and electrical systems, and also hydrostatic drive from a skid steer, but those all got lost too. At least I was thinking about it.
Good luck.
PS: The left side is the easiest, suggest you start there and just do one side at a time.
Just so you know, I did work up drawings for hydraulic, pneumatic, and electrical systems, and also hydrostatic drive from a skid steer, but those all got lost too. At least I was thinking about it.
Good luck.
PS: The left side is the easiest, suggest you start there and just do one side at a time.
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I think you sir, I’ll try this
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Let us know of your progress. Good luck.
timbatrader
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I haven't tried Bobs modification it looks like a much better system but a much easier option that I have done that works for me is to enlarge the slots in the floor so the steering pedals have more travel this makes it easier to adjust the steering clutchs to disengage before the brake comes on and still have enough travel in the pedal to fully engage the brake
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Maybe Franken should try your mod first. Nice!
Did you have to leave the steering clutch rod slack?DedmanWalllcane
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Just joined this forum working on a Nortrac 3500 dozer. Took the dozer apart thinking my steering issue was bad clutches or bands as the dozer stopped moving first one side then the other. After disassembling I found the main issue was the arm that is used to release the clutches in the steering brake band had become stuck. It was so gummed up it was not letting the clutches reengage. After spraying the arm and working it for several hours (literally) The arm now moves freely and the clutches engage. Took the dozer all apart for apparently no reason. I ended up messing up the brake band and figured I might as well replace the bands anyway. Wondering if you might not have the same problem. also I figured I include this link. Norton provides a service/ operator manual pdf file. https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/24549.pdf Hope this helps.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Welcome Deadman. Good info. It appears that there was a merger between Guilin and Yuchai back in 2012, but it appears no significant changes have been made in the dozer.
Guilin Yuchai Construction Machinery Co.,ltd. - Supplier of wheel loader construction machinery Guilin China
Supplier of Wheel Loader Construction Machinery & Wheel Loader Construction Machinery Rental Service offered by Guilin Yuchai Construction Machinery Co.,ltd. from Guilin, Guangxi, China. View profile, contact info, product catalog credit report of Guilin Yuchai Construction Machinery Co.,ltd.
www.exporthub.com
My Yuchai has also become problematic, as regards the clutch/brake adjustment, and despite attempting to adjust it per instructions, I really could derive no "feel" for what was going on, until I disconnected the linkage and manipulated the two components (clutch and brake) separately.
Then, it became apparent that the throw of the pedal is insufficient to effect the movement needed.
The answer, for me, was to install a pully and cable system which doubles the effective movement of the linkage, at the cost of additional pedal force needed:
a fair trade.
But i fear my clutch lining is paper thin, and I don't want to undertake the repair, as I am a lazy person, and also don't really have the equipment. Plus i have become old, weak, and generally discombobulated.
Now, if Mr. Rooks would move down here, some degree of competence may appear in the vicinity, and I would put on my "pathetic" demeanor and whine for assistance.
Prob'ly wouldn't work, though..
Then, it became apparent that the throw of the pedal is insufficient to effect the movement needed.
The answer, for me, was to install a pully and cable system which doubles the effective movement of the linkage, at the cost of additional pedal force needed:
a fair trade.
But i fear my clutch lining is paper thin, and I don't want to undertake the repair, as I am a lazy person, and also don't really have the equipment. Plus i have become old, weak, and generally discombobulated.
Now, if Mr. Rooks would move down here, some degree of competence may appear in the vicinity, and I would put on my "pathetic" demeanor and whine for assistance.
Prob'ly wouldn't work, though..
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Correct, David. Hahahaha. Sounds like you adopted my pulley system. Glad to hear it.
The only way to determine how much your clutch plates are worn is to compare clutch linkage measurements from new, like measuring track pin wear (which nobody here does). Clutch disc replacement is a time consuming task without a shop manual, to be sure.
Here are some similar links:
