adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.

[joea99]

Any ideas on adding spiral plastic hose guard without removing at least one end of a hose? I did a few yesterday, before the rain, and it is quite tedious, but it is good for an arm (and patience) workout. Not that it's so easy even with an end free.+

I did not expect the wrap for a few more days and wanted to get on with the job. Without the hose and fitting plugs ("be in soon"), I'll lose some of the expensive hydraulic fluid I just topped off.

 

[rScotty]

For years now, I've had some rolls of 1" diameter tubular nylon that I try to remember to slip over hoses when I've got one end free.

Electriduct 1" Nylon Protective Hose Sleeve - 25 Feet - Black​

Got it on Amazon where it costs about a dollar and a half a foot. It's the right stuff, and very resistant to sunlight and abrasion. Turn out that it is necessary to always cut it six inches to a foot too long. Being a bit baggy doesn't hurt a thing, and it does seem to shrink a bit in use. Fix it in place with a zip tie on each end. Zip tie around the metal end of the hose instead of the rubber.

A nice system, but it has several problems besides the cost and shrinkage. One is having to take one end of a hose loose, and the other is - since hoses failures are unscheduled events - remembering where I put that roll of hose sleeve last time.

I wonder if there is some sort of flat protective hose sleeve with hook and loop? Something that could be wrapped around a hose and then the edges pressed together to seal it in place. That would be a product worth trying.
rScotty

 

[joea99]

For years now, I've had some rolls of 1" diameter tubular nylon that I try to remember to slip over hoses when I've got one end free.

Electriduct 1" Nylon Protective Hose Sleeve - 25 Feet - Black​

Got it on Amazon where it costs about a dollar and a half a foot. It's the right stuff, and very resistant to sunlight and abrasion. Turn out that it is necessary to always cut it six inches to a foot too long. Being a bit baggy doesn't hurt a thing, and it does seem to shrink a bit in use. Fix it in place with a zip tie on each end. Zip tie around the metal end of the hose instead of the rubber.

A nice system, but it has several problems besides the cost and shrinkage. One is having to take one end of a hose loose, and the other is - since hoses failures are unscheduled events - remembering where I put that roll of hose sleeve last time.

I wonder if there is some sort of flat protective hose sleeve with hook and loop? Something that could be wrapped around a hose and then the edges pressed together to seal it in place. That would be a product worth trying.
rScotty

Like this?

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/fast-wrap-hook-look-sleeving.html

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Entry-Cable-Braided-Sleeving-Fastener/dp/B00RM122DI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3E1WQJ2K34HME&keywords=hydraulic%2Bhose%2Bbraided%2Bsplit%2Bwrap&qid=1653754555&sprefix=hydraulic%2Bhose%2Bbraided%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-5&th=1

Could just get some split sleeve and use a zip tie every few feet, not pulled to tight.

This is what I got:

Amazon.com: Pre-Cut Spiral Wrap Hose Protector, 0.67" OD, 25' Length, Black : Electronics

Buy Pre-Cut Spiral Wrap Hose Protector, 0.67" OD, 25' Length, Black: Cable Sleeves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[arto98607]

I know this stuff is meant for electrical wires/cables, but have used it on hydraulic hoses as well.

It works well, and is already split making it easy to install afterwards.

 

[Fallon]

Hydraulic Parts - BoltOnHooks LLC Dura-Wrap at the bottom of the page. Ken's is a TBN sponsor if I recall.

I have some of that from Ken or Fit Rite Hydraulics (another TBN sponsor). It's worked well.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I bought some heavy plastic spiral wrap hydraulic hose protection from the local napa store. Sold by the foot IIRC. Wraps onto already installed hoses. Click on the pic and then expand it. Look at the remote lines to the TnT cylinders.

gg

 

[ponytug]

Any ideas on adding spiral plastic hose guard without removing at least one end of a hose? I did a few yesterday, before the rain, and it is quite tedious, but it is good for an arm (and patience) workout. Not that it's so easy even with an end free.+

I did not expect the wrap for a few more days and wanted to get on with the job. Without the hose and fitting plugs ("be in soon"), I'll lose some of the expensive hydraulic fluid I just topped off.

I did it to almost all of my hoses. I didn't disconnect any of them, and it is an all hydraulic tractor.

Here is what I did. Try to measure out how much you need before you start, and get that amount loose from the spool, but don't cut the wrap.

(Well you can, but it is almost guaranteed that you've underestimated how much hose you will need, and who wants a hose wrapped with two pieces, even if it still works?)​

Twist the wrap slightly to expand a short section, the diameter of your hose, and then place that against your hose and start spiraling the free end of the wrap around your hose, heading away from the spool until either you reach the end of the hose (congratulations!) or the end of what you unspooled. If you ran out of wrap, unspool a chunk more and then push it on the hose (no spiraling). That then expands and loosens the wrap and lets you move existing wrap down the hose until you have everything wrapped. I find that I can extend/stretch the spiral to the end if it is close, which then leaves space on the hose to easily put the extra on the hose. After a few tries, you get pretty good at guesstimating how much more wrap you need than the actual length of hose, so you don't do very much pushing wrap around the hose.

On a few of the tandem hoses, I wrapped the hoses individually and then over wrapped with a thicker wrap to protect the pair and hold them together.

All the best,

Peter

 

[joea99]

Forgot to get back to this post. Went with "safeplast" in 1/2 and 3/4 inch ID. After some trial and error did it much as Peter described. Problem I had was I could not "push" the wrap down the hose at all, I had to "spiral" it on. Did not cut the first couple, but quickly found what a PITA dealing with 25 ft of twisty turn spiral wrap could be. Once I got the "eyeball" calibrated ended up cutting which went a lot easier.

In this case, I found the spiral holds tight enough there is no need, so far, to ty-wrap or otherwise secure the ends to keep it in place. I'd guess that depends mostly on the OD of the hose and ID of the spiral.

If nothing else, feel like a better tractor owner now. Some pictures below:

 

[joea99]

I bought some heavy plastic spiral wrap hydraulic hose protection from the local napa store. Sold by the foot IIRC. Wraps onto already installed hoses. Click on the pic and then expand it. Look at the remote lines to the TnT cylinders.

View attachment 748081


gg

Did you build that scraper/leveler?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Yes - It's 12 years old now and still my go-to road tool. My rear blade and box blade have their place but that grader sees the bulk of the work.

gg

 

[joea99]

Yes - It's 12 years old now and still my go-to road tool. My rear blade and box blade have their place but that grader sees the bulk of the work.

View attachment 749563

View attachment 749564

gg

Build from plans for it or was eyeball engineering? I have a woods box blade but can see a land plane/leveler would be good thing to have.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I made plans enough so I could figure material, calculate the weight, and build from. Weighs about 650 lbs with a good set of cutting edges on it.

.

gg

 

[joea99]

I made plans enough so I could figure material, calculate the weight, and build from. Weighs about 650 lbs with a good set of cutting edges on it.

Wow, thanks for the drawings. Are the cutting edges hidden under the gravel in the first posted picture? Where did you source the blades?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Wow, thanks for the drawings. Are the cutting edges hidden under the gravel in the first posted picture? Where did you source the blades?

Yes - the grading action works by filling the area in front of the blades with gravel and letting it flow over the top. My blades are set 3/4" below the skids. I bought the cutting edges online from an equipment cutting edge supplier. I can't recall there name.

gg

 

[joea99]

Yes - the grading action works by filling the area in front of the blades with gravel and letting it flow over the top. My blades are set 3/4" below the skids. I bought the cutting edges online from an equipment cutting edge supplier. I can't recall there name.

View attachment 749597

View attachment 749598


gg

Should probably start another thread on this, but.

In this picture the rear tailgate seems to have a forward tilt, at the bottom edge, while it looks like it should "free float" as you drive. Was this taken after going in reverse a bit?

Also, there appear to be some "nubs" on the outer pipe that don't show on the drawings. What are they for?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Should probably start another thread on this, but.

In this picture the rear tailgate seems to have a forward tilt, at the bottom edge, while it looks like it should "free float" as you drive. Was this taken after going in reverse a bit?

Also, there appear to be some "nubs" on the outer pipe that don't show on the drawings. What are they for?

It's your thread - let it go where it will. I don't think anyone will complain. OK - look at this next picture. You will see the tail gate slanted back, dragging behind. You will also see a pin just above the runner at the bottom rear of the side plate. I can hang the tail gate behind the pin so that it acts as a drag going forward or in reverse it will act as a blade. This is especially useful on the road edges or removing sod from parking areas. When I cut a fresh edge the box accumulates the sod but the heavier gravel passes under the drag. Then I can lift the grader leaving a pile of sod in the road and back into the pile to push it off with the blade.

If I flip the tail gate up and over so it hangs in front of the pin,, like the picture in the last post, the box will accumulate gravel and carry it along the road sort of like a box blade. This works good for fixing wash outs. When I go over the loose deposited material it fills the box. Then when I pass over the washed out trench the gravels drops down into it. The hydraulic top link helps a lot to make this work just like a box blade. This mode also works well when smoothing new gravel that has been unevenly spread on the road with a bucket or tail gated from a truck.

gg

gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

I forgot the nubs on the hinges - I got carried away w/o thinking it through and put some grease zerks on there. Not needed at all. The fit is plenty sloppy and besides, grease and dirt don't mix.

gg

 

[jonsstihl]

subscribed for the land plane plans. Nice work gordon and thanks for sharing your intellectual property. May when I'm retired I will have enough time to build myself one.

 

[joea99]

I forgot the nubs on the hinges - I got carried away w/o thinking it through and put some grease zerks on there. Not needed at all. The fit is plenty sloppy and besides, grease and dirt don't mix.

gg

Thanks, that cleared it up.

Couple more things. The pin for the back door is weld on? On both sides? Guess it should be pretty substantial and could even be a bolt, threaded in, with head ground off. Or builders fancy I suppose.

And the scraper blades and angle iron. The ones I've seen by EA have them on a slant, that is, not "square" with the side plates, but I don't have enough experience to know if I should bother, if decided to use yours as a template. As long as that's OK with you that is.

Nice work and thanks again for sharing this.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks, that cleared it up.

Couple more things. The pin for the back door is weld on? On both sides? Guess it should be pretty substantial and could even be a bolt, threaded in, with head ground off. Or builders fancy I suppose.

And the scraper blades and angle iron. The ones I've seen by EA have them on a slant, that is, not "square" with the side plates, but I don't have enough experience to know if I should bother, if decided to use yours as a template. As long as that's OK with you that is.

Nice work and thanks again for sharing this.

The pins are just 1/2" GR8 bolts 2" long with 1-1/2" long nuts on them. One on each side. Heads on the outside.

There has been lots and lots of discussion in the past on weather angled blades are better than straight. In my mind the advantage of angled blades is insignificant unless you make an angle greater than 35 degree or so. But many disagree. I do know that if I run my rear blade at a shallow angle it works the same as if it were straight and box blades are all straight too. However, there is no real disadvantage to angled blades.

A better improvement would be to make the blade height adjustable. My fixed 3/4" below the runners works fine for me but some with adjustable blades don't like cutting that deep and run the blades flush. A lot has to do with your road surface material.

Go ahead and copy what ever you want. That's what TBN is all about. There was no deep knowledge or design secrets put into it. I just built it and it turned out to work better than I thought it would. Do some searches on land planes. You will see lots of different ideas to use. And lots of discussion of what people think works best.

Thanks for the kind words and good luck.

gg