adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.

   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #12  
I made plans enough so I could figure material, calculate the weight, and build from. Weighs about 650 lbs with a good set of cutting edges on it.


GrdrPlanIso_X.jpg

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GrdrPlanSide_X.jpg



GrdrPlanTop_X.jpg



LeftRearSm.JPG


gg
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I made plans enough so I could figure material, calculate the weight, and build from. Weighs about 650 lbs with a good set of cutting edges on it.
Wow, thanks for the drawings. Are the cutting edges hidden under the gravel in the first posted picture? Where did you source the blades?
 
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   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #14  
Wow, thanks for the drawings. Are the cutting edges hidden under the gravel in the first posted picture? Where did you source the blades?

Yes - the grading action works by filling the area in front of the blades with gravel and letting it flow over the top. My blades are set 3/4" below the skids. I bought the cutting edges online from an equipment cutting edge supplier. I can't recall there name.

NewCuttingEdge2.JPG


P1100979.JPG



gg
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Yes - the grading action works by filling the area in front of the blades with gravel and letting it flow over the top. My blades are set 3/4" below the skids. I bought the cutting edges online from an equipment cutting edge supplier. I can't recall there name.

View attachment 749597

View attachment 749598


gg
Should probably start another thread on this, but.

In this picture the rear tailgate seems to have a forward tilt, at the bottom edge, while it looks like it should "free float" as you drive. Was this taken after going in reverse a bit?

Also, there appear to be some "nubs" on the outer pipe that don't show on the drawings. What are they for?
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #16  
Should probably start another thread on this, but.

In this picture the rear tailgate seems to have a forward tilt, at the bottom edge, while it looks like it should "free float" as you drive. Was this taken after going in reverse a bit?

Also, there appear to be some "nubs" on the outer pipe that don't show on the drawings. What are they for?

It's your thread - let it go where it will. I don't think anyone will complain. OK - look at this next picture. You will see the tail gate slanted back, dragging behind. You will also see a pin just above the runner at the bottom rear of the side plate. I can hang the tail gate behind the pin so that it acts as a drag going forward or in reverse it will act as a blade. This is especially useful on the road edges or removing sod from parking areas. When I cut a fresh edge the box accumulates the sod but the heavier gravel passes under the drag. Then I can lift the grader leaving a pile of sod in the road and back into the pile to push it off with the blade.

SodRemoval2.JPG



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If I flip the tail gate up and over so it hangs in front of the pin,, like the picture in the last post, the box will accumulate gravel and carry it along the road sort of like a box blade. This works good for fixing wash outs. When I go over the loose deposited material it fills the box. Then when I pass over the washed out trench the gravels drops down into it. The hydraulic top link helps a lot to make this work just like a box blade. This mode also works well when smoothing new gravel that has been unevenly spread on the road with a bucket or tail gated from a truck.

gg

gg
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #17  
I forgot the nubs on the hinges - I got carried away w/o thinking it through and put some grease zerks on there. :) Not needed at all. The fit is plenty sloppy and besides, grease and dirt don't mix.

gg
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #18  
subscribed for the land plane plans. Nice work gordon and thanks for sharing your intellectual property. May when I'm retired I will have enough time to build myself one.
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses.
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I forgot the nubs on the hinges - I got carried away w/o thinking it through and put some grease zerks on there. :) Not needed at all. The fit is plenty sloppy and besides, grease and dirt don't mix.

gg

Thanks, that cleared it up.

Couple more things. The pin for the back door is weld on? On both sides? Guess it should be pretty substantial and could even be a bolt, threaded in, with head ground off. Or builders fancy I suppose.

And the scraper blades and angle iron. The ones I've seen by EA have them on a slant, that is, not "square" with the side plates, but I don't have enough experience to know if I should bother, if decided to use yours as a template. As long as that's OK with you that is.

Nice work and thanks again for sharing this.
 
   / adding spiral hose guard to installed hoses. #20  
Thanks, that cleared it up.

Couple more things. The pin for the back door is weld on? On both sides? Guess it should be pretty substantial and could even be a bolt, threaded in, with head ground off. Or builders fancy I suppose.

And the scraper blades and angle iron. The ones I've seen by EA have them on a slant, that is, not "square" with the side plates, but I don't have enough experience to know if I should bother, if decided to use yours as a template. As long as that's OK with you that is.

Nice work and thanks again for sharing this.

The pins are just 1/2" GR8 bolts 2" long with 1-1/2" long nuts on them. One on each side. Heads on the outside.

There has been lots and lots of discussion in the past on weather angled blades are better than straight. In my mind the advantage of angled blades is insignificant unless you make an angle greater than 35 degree or so. But many disagree. I do know that if I run my rear blade at a shallow angle it works the same as if it were straight and box blades are all straight too. However, there is no real disadvantage to angled blades.

A better improvement would be to make the blade height adjustable. My fixed 3/4" below the runners works fine for me but some with adjustable blades don't like cutting that deep and run the blades flush. A lot has to do with your road surface material.

Go ahead and copy what ever you want. That's what TBN is all about. There was no deep knowledge or design secrets put into it. I just built it and it turned out to work better than I thought it would. Do some searches on land planes. You will see lots of different ideas to use. And lots of discussion of what people think works best.

Thanks for the kind words and good luck.

gg
 
 
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