JOhn Deere won’t move

/ JOhn Deere won’t move #1  

paulfun9

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
2,330
Location
PA
Tractor
Kioti DK40
As some might already know I am stuck doing all the chores while my husband is away taking care of a sick family member. I don’t want to bother him with problems and issues that arise here on the home front. So I have started posting on some of the sites he frequents to try and attain some help and insight with things I am not that great with.

This morning as I started to get ready fo a day of cleaning up along the tree line with one of our tractors it just didn’t want to cooperate. It’s a John Deere 755 that we have had for many years and is the smallest of them. We use it for cleaning up the tree line out back because it’s able to get in between trees and such that the others simply don’t fit and works great for picking up the fallen branches and rip out excess overgrowth with the grapple.

Anyway this morning I hooked up our dump trailer and parked out back, went to the barn and when I started the tractor it wasn’t working as it normally does. The loader seemed to hesitate and rise in a bouncing manner. Before it even reached a height good to clear as you back out, just quit moving completely. I tried moving it and it started to move then shuddered and stopped.

I guess I am hoping it’s something simple that Can be fixed easy, but just have no clue where to start. My guess is I won’t be able to fix it without help from someone that is better with tools. So I guess what I’m asking is does anyone have a clue what might be possible causes or has it just outlived itself?
Leave it alone? Call the local young lad that is willing to try and fix anything and give some Ideas on what needs done? Use one of the other tractors to push it onto a trailer and haul it to the dealership, and pray they use some Vaseline when they screw me you know where?

If I had at least an idea of what could be wrong it would be an easy choice.

Thank You for any help
Janet
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #3  
I’m not real familiar with your tractor but make sure nothing is trying to use the hydraulics. An example would be the three point trying to raise up when it’s already all the way up or the button for the grapple trying to close when it’s already closed.
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Already checked all fluid levels, also changed filters. Not really good at this stuff but not totally incompetent.

Grapple isn’t on yet and everything else checked. 3 point is down and won’t raise at all. Seems I have nothing not even the PTO rear or mid. Just sits there running but won’t do anything not even power steering.

Janet
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #5  
Is there a show of fluid on the ground where
the tractor was parked?? If yes then I would
check to see if you can find the leak or busted
hydraulic line

willy
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #6  
Is their a positive between the engine and transmission?
Should say positive connection like a drive shaft.
 
Last edited:
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #7  
Janet
When you trying to raise loader and it stopped did steering also stop at the same time?

Reason for asking is that looking at parts diagram that model has single pump that provides flow for all the functions. The pump feeds a valve block that divides the flow between steering and rest of functions.

I believe transaxle is totally separate functionally from hydraulic system so hopefully someone that knows this model of tractor can provide additional information on what could cause both systems to fail.
 
Last edited:
/ JOhn Deere won’t move
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Egon
Ok I am a little puzzled why there would be positive between the engine and transmission. As far as I understand when speaking about positive and negative you would be talking about electricity as in the positive or ground cable. As stated it starts and engine runs fine, what it does not do is have working loader, transmission, rear pto, mid pto or power steering. My understanding is the only thing that might not work due to electric issues would be the PTO but am fairly sure that’s not the issue because engine starts fine, lights work, all lights on the dashboard come on as they should and the flashers on the fenders work fine.

Oldnso
I honestly don’t know.
The loader started hoping as I tried to raise it and then it just stopped. It didn’t fall down on its own but dummy me lowered it to try again then it stopped moving at all. I didn’t even think to try the steering just went right into gear to see if it would move. It started to move backward a couple feet then started to feel wierd so I tried going forward and it stoped moving almost as soon as I started ( backward about 2 feet then forward about 1).

At that point I checked for fluid leaking by getting off and really looking under it better but didn’t see any. Started it again and tried the PTO and steering and they did not work at all.

Even though I check all fluids before starting any tractor, I checked everything again then decided to try simply changing the filter for the hydraulics. It had no effect. I didn’t think this was an engine problem so I didn’t touch the oil filter or air filter.

There are still no leaks or puddles of any fluid under it, nothing is spraying out like when I busted a line on the loader 20 years ago.

Thank You
Janet
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #9  
Janet
I hope someone with more knowledge of the 755 will chime in and confirm or deny my thoughts based on looking at parts diagrams.

1) Hydrostatic transmission has its own charge pump and and charge filter separate from FEL and steering pump.
2) FEL and steering pump are same single pump and draw oil from transaxle through a screen style filter inside the transaxle.

Question is the screen also inlet to charge pump? I can’t tell from parts diagram. If yes then if plugged would explain both main pump and HST not working. To me this a long shot but just trying to determine what is common to both circuits.
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move
  • Thread Starter
#10  
So if we can find someone to confirm that? Then we know what? Does the tractor have to be torn apart (split as they say) to fix it?
Not sure it’s worth that kind of work, time, money. It’s Ben here a long long time maybe I can find a nice replacement and scrap this one.

I used a come along from the roll over bar to lift the bucket up far enough to be able to pull it out of the barn in the morning. Have to move it because our Kioti is parked behind it. That’s the next smallest tractor so I need to use it to get at the clean up project, Just too old to do this by hand anymore. I think between the grapple on the Kioti and maybe using the backhoe to reach in where it won’t fit I might stand a good chance of getting everything I want cleared out.

By the way do you have a link to the proper parts diagram? Maybe my neighbor or someone can decifer it.

Thank You
Janet
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #11  
Janet
No you do not have to split the tractor to access the suction screen - filter.

In studying the parts diagram I think the FEL - steering pump is mounted on transaxle and not engine like my tractor. If this is true then there would be another common link of drive shaft between engine and transaxle driving both items. This shaft connects to the splines on HST pump in the transaxle assembly and if something happened to this connection it would also explain why tractor sounded and felt different when trying to move. Again would be nice if someone familiar with this model could confirm pump location since if pump is not mounted on transaxle it would not explain why both have failed.

I have been using the John Deere parts website to look at parts diagram will try and post the link but I am not real computer savvy.

Attempt at link to deere parts website.

 
Last edited:
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #12  

Some diagrams here.

Clumsy wording but positive connection was meat to be a driveline connection. There will be pictures as well as parts listing in the above site.
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #13  
this thread

This page
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #16  
Janet, I wrote you a private message. Your tractor was built by Yanmar for JD many years ago. You will find the answers on the Classic Yanmar Forum here on TBN. Just go down the list of Forums - there are a bunch of knowlegeable old timers familiar with your tractor there.


Good luck,
rScotty
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #18  


Thank you, Jim. Yes, the suction strainer is number 24 - the tubular looking thing with a couple of splotches on it. It's actually a rolled up piece of of metal screen about 8" long and an inch or two in diameter - about the size of a empty paper towel roll. It isn't screwed in, the strainer simply pulls out endwise once the hose is cover is taken off.
The O ring and packing can usually be reused. They are for locating the strainer and holding it in place rather than sealing it. The strainer itself can be cleaned with a soft brush and soapy water.

The function of the strainer down there in the bottom of the oil sump is to strain the larger pieces of crud out before they can get sucked up into the oil pump and distributed everywhere. It was a good idea, but given a few decades and the inevitable water condensation you get in transmission/hydraulic oil, the strainers do tend to plug up and stop the flow of oil to the pump. The JD 755 uses pressurized oil for to turn the hydraulic motors that drive the tractor and also for all other hydraulic functions - so when that strainer clogs nothing works.

It may not be your problem - or not all of it - but we have to do this as a first step. Also look around or ask JD if there is another external "spin-on" type filter for the hydraulics that is not cleanable but must be replaced. Not the engine oil filter. But it is a similar looking cannister. If it has one, replace it at the same time.
Like I said, this may not be the problem. But it is the most common single problem with these Yanmar-derived tractors and a necessary first step regardless.

When you remove the cover 21, first remove the drain plug in the end of the cover and hopefully expect about FIVE GALLONS of oil to come gushing out. So be prepared. If the oil is clean it can be filtered and reused, but it is so much better to just replace it. It needs replacing every decade or so anyway because it gets condensation in it. John Deere will probably want you to put in HyGard Trans/Hydraulic oil. Their regualr viscosity or winter Low Viscosity type - either is OK. Be sure to be holding onto something sturdy when they tell you the price of that oil.... $30/gallon is typical....although you can get it on Amazon

Now when you put the strainer back in and the cover #21 back on look carefully at that pipe that fits on the cover. It is called a "suction pipe" because it uses suction to pull the oil up to the oil pump which is probably mounted on the right side of the engine.. And that brings us to the second common problem with these tractors. Because there are half a dozen pipes and rubber flanges and hose clamps involved in getting that oil up to the oil pump. And if any one of these joints has the smallest air leak - even the size of a sewing needle sized leak - then the system just cannot build enough suction to get oil to the hydraulic pump and although the motor runs, eveything stops working.

Those suction leaks can be very hard to find. Suction leaks are always a hair puller. It's not uncommon with old hoses to find htat they have a microscopic crack at the end parallel to the hose through a old split on the INSIDE face of that old hose where all you will see is pretty much nothing... It happens with older rubber hoses where the hoses slip over a metal fitting and are tightened with a hose clamp. Once you get an old hose slid off of the metal flange you can peer in and see what I mean. When it is installed, all you can see is the end of the hose.
BUT THERE IS A TRICK to find out if that is leaking! Although a leak can suck air when the engine is running - and then nothing works - when the engine is NOT running is when the oil can slowly ooze out of a leaky hose end. It can leak out because suction is no longer keeping it in the hose. So if you see one of those hoses that has an end that is suspiciously wet with oil - and maybe even slowly dripping when not running - best replace that hose completely.
Oh, don't forget to drain and save your new oil if you do.

But for now, the first steps are simpler: just clean the strainer, look for a spin-on filter & replace it if you have one, get some new oil, and when you put it all back together keep an eye open for old leaky hose connections.

Best of luck,
rScotty
 
Last edited:
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #19  
So if we can find someone to confirm that? Then we know what? Does the tractor have to be torn apart (split as they say) to fix it?
Not sure it’s worth that kind of work, time, money. It’s Ben here a long long time maybe I can find a nice replacement and scrap this one.

I used a come along from the roll over bar to lift the bucket up far enough to be able to pull it out of the barn in the morning. Have to move it because our Kioti is parked behind it. That’s the next smallest tractor so I need to use it to get at the clean up project, Just too old to do this by hand anymore. I think between the grapple on the Kioti and maybe using the backhoe to reach in where it won’t fit I might stand a good chance of getting everything I want cleared out.

By the way do you have a link to the proper parts diagram? Maybe my neighbor or someone can decifer it.

Thank You
Janet
A lot of those tractors have a screen filter in the bottom of transmission and rear end. There is the pick up tube on one side or the other that has three bolts or more to hold it to the housing. You need to drain the fluid and take the tube loose . Pull the filter out and clean it. Tube flange has a O' ring. save it or replace it. That filter will cause the problems your talking about.
 
/ JOhn Deere won’t move #20  
A lot of those tractors have a screen filter in the bottom of transmission and rear end. There is the pick up tube on one side or the other that has three bolts or more to hold it to the housing. You need to drain the fluid and take the tube loose . Pull the filter out and clean it. Tube flange has a O' ring. save it or replace it. That filter will cause the problems your talking about.
Yep, that's the Yanmar design. We all have to own a kiddie pool to collect the gush of fluid flow once the tri-bolted plate comes loose.

In her other thread, they do have J20C UTTO from Shell Rotella. So all is good there. :)

 

Marketplace Items

500 BBL FRAC TANK (A58214)
500 BBL FRAC TANK...
GIYI CLG72-72" HYD CURVED LOG GRABBER (A60430)
GIYI CLG72-72" HYD...
500BBL WHEELED FRAC TANK (A58214)
500BBL WHEELED...
2025 ZJG ZJ-380 Mini Stand-On Track Loader Skid Steer (A59228)
2025 ZJG ZJ-380...
2020 PETERBILT 567 (A58214)
2020 PETERBILT 567...
Caterpillar 2PD5000 5,000LB Diesel Forklift (A56857)
Caterpillar...
 
Top