JOhn Deere won’t move

   / JOhn Deere won’t move #11  
Janet
No you do not have to split the tractor to access the suction screen - filter.

In studying the parts diagram I think the FEL - steering pump is mounted on transaxle and not engine like my tractor. If this is true then there would be another common link of drive shaft between engine and transaxle driving both items. This shaft connects to the splines on HST pump in the transaxle assembly and if something happened to this connection it would also explain why tractor sounded and felt different when trying to move. Again would be nice if someone familiar with this model could confirm pump location since if pump is not mounted on transaxle it would not explain why both have failed.

I have been using the John Deere parts website to look at parts diagram will try and post the link but I am not real computer savvy.

Attempt at link to deere parts website.

 
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   / JOhn Deere won’t move #12  

Some diagrams here.

Clumsy wording but positive connection was meat to be a driveline connection. There will be pictures as well as parts listing in the above site.
 
   / JOhn Deere won’t move #13  
this thread

This page
 
   / JOhn Deere won’t move #15  
When backyard troubleshooting don't work, call your selling or local dealer and het your wallet out.
 
   / JOhn Deere won’t move #16  
Janet, I wrote you a private message. Your tractor was built by Yanmar for JD many years ago. You will find the answers on the Classic Yanmar Forum here on TBN. Just go down the list of Forums - there are a bunch of knowlegeable old timers familiar with your tractor there.


Good luck,
rScotty
 
   / JOhn Deere won’t move #18  


Thank you, Jim. Yes, the suction strainer is number 24 - the tubular looking thing with a couple of splotches on it. It's actually a rolled up piece of of metal screen about 8" long and an inch or two in diameter - about the size of a empty paper towel roll. It isn't screwed in, the strainer simply pulls out endwise once the hose is cover is taken off.
The O ring and packing can usually be reused. They are for locating the strainer and holding it in place rather than sealing it. The strainer itself can be cleaned with a soft brush and soapy water.

The function of the strainer down there in the bottom of the oil sump is to strain the larger pieces of crud out before they can get sucked up into the oil pump and distributed everywhere. It was a good idea, but given a few decades and the inevitable water condensation you get in transmission/hydraulic oil, the strainers do tend to plug up and stop the flow of oil to the pump. The JD 755 uses pressurized oil for to turn the hydraulic motors that drive the tractor and also for all other hydraulic functions - so when that strainer clogs nothing works.

It may not be your problem - or not all of it - but we have to do this as a first step. Also look around or ask JD if there is another external "spin-on" type filter for the hydraulics that is not cleanable but must be replaced. Not the engine oil filter. But it is a similar looking cannister. If it has one, replace it at the same time.
Like I said, this may not be the problem. But it is the most common single problem with these Yanmar-derived tractors and a necessary first step regardless.

When you remove the cover 21, first remove the drain plug in the end of the cover and hopefully expect about FIVE GALLONS of oil to come gushing out. So be prepared. If the oil is clean it can be filtered and reused, but it is so much better to just replace it. It needs replacing every decade or so anyway because it gets condensation in it. John Deere will probably want you to put in HyGard Trans/Hydraulic oil. Their regualr viscosity or winter Low Viscosity type - either is OK. Be sure to be holding onto something sturdy when they tell you the price of that oil.... $30/gallon is typical....although you can get it on Amazon

Now when you put the strainer back in and the cover #21 back on look carefully at that pipe that fits on the cover. It is called a "suction pipe" because it uses suction to pull the oil up to the oil pump which is probably mounted on the right side of the engine.. And that brings us to the second common problem with these tractors. Because there are half a dozen pipes and rubber flanges and hose clamps involved in getting that oil up to the oil pump. And if any one of these joints has the smallest air leak - even the size of a sewing needle sized leak - then the system just cannot build enough suction to get oil to the hydraulic pump and although the motor runs, eveything stops working.

Those suction leaks can be very hard to find. Suction leaks are always a hair puller. It's not uncommon with old hoses to find htat they have a microscopic crack at the end parallel to the hose through a old split on the INSIDE face of that old hose where all you will see is pretty much nothing... It happens with older rubber hoses where the hoses slip over a metal fitting and are tightened with a hose clamp. Once you get an old hose slid off of the metal flange you can peer in and see what I mean. When it is installed, all you can see is the end of the hose.
BUT THERE IS A TRICK to find out if that is leaking! Although a leak can suck air when the engine is running - and then nothing works - when the engine is NOT running is when the oil can slowly ooze out of a leaky hose end. It can leak out because suction is no longer keeping it in the hose. So if you see one of those hoses that has an end that is suspiciously wet with oil - and maybe even slowly dripping when not running - best replace that hose completely.
Oh, don't forget to drain and save your new oil if you do.

But for now, the first steps are simpler: just clean the strainer, look for a spin-on filter & replace it if you have one, get some new oil, and when you put it all back together keep an eye open for old leaky hose connections.

Best of luck,
rScotty
 
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   / JOhn Deere won’t move #19  
So if we can find someone to confirm that? Then we know what? Does the tractor have to be torn apart (split as they say) to fix it?
Not sure it’s worth that kind of work, time, money. It’s Ben here a long long time maybe I can find a nice replacement and scrap this one.

I used a come along from the roll over bar to lift the bucket up far enough to be able to pull it out of the barn in the morning. Have to move it because our Kioti is parked behind it. That’s the next smallest tractor so I need to use it to get at the clean up project, Just too old to do this by hand anymore. I think between the grapple on the Kioti and maybe using the backhoe to reach in where it won’t fit I might stand a good chance of getting everything I want cleared out.

By the way do you have a link to the proper parts diagram? Maybe my neighbor or someone can decifer it.

Thank You
Janet
A lot of those tractors have a screen filter in the bottom of transmission and rear end. There is the pick up tube on one side or the other that has three bolts or more to hold it to the housing. You need to drain the fluid and take the tube loose . Pull the filter out and clean it. Tube flange has a O' ring. save it or replace it. That filter will cause the problems your talking about.
 
   / JOhn Deere won’t move #20  
A lot of those tractors have a screen filter in the bottom of transmission and rear end. There is the pick up tube on one side or the other that has three bolts or more to hold it to the housing. You need to drain the fluid and take the tube loose . Pull the filter out and clean it. Tube flange has a O' ring. save it or replace it. That filter will cause the problems your talking about.
Yep, that's the Yanmar design. We all have to own a kiddie pool to collect the gush of fluid flow once the tri-bolted plate comes loose.

In her other thread, they do have J20C UTTO from Shell Rotella. So all is good there. :)

 

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