Swollen Ford Lug nuts

[bmaverick]

DEEP CREEP works. Been there with a few Dodge lugnuts already.

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[gsganzer]

Some folks are discussing lubricating the threads and I don't think I'd ever do that. However, I would put a dab on the face of the nut where it mates with the aluminum rim. This appears to be where the "stuck" problem is coming from.

 

[Oaktree]

Apparently, this is a known issue, and a class action lawsuit was filed against Ford. Man, this is ridiculous trying to remove these blooming things! Apparently, they're 2-part lug nuts with a steel nut and aluminum over wrap. The aluminum swells and galls against the alloy rim. Good grief man, what a PITA! Drilling is looking like my only option.

I'm confused. Are the lugs seized on the studs, or is it just that you can't get a socket on the lugs because the cap is swollen?
Ford isn't the only manufacturer who uses that style lug nuts, I agree they're a PITA.

I always re-torque the lugs after a tire place has mounted tires. Often times they WAY over-tighten them. Usually put a little oil on the threads so they don't seize.

I can remember when I was younger some cars had left hand threads on lugs on one side of the car. I can remember being frustrated by having to guess which way to turn the lug nut.

Yeah, pre-1970 Mopars, LH threads on the left side of the vehicle. There was science behind it, but by the early 70s I guess they'd noticed that none of their competitors' lugs were loosening up on that side so they switched to RH threads on all 4 wheels.

Another odd quirk I never got the point of was old VWs didn't use lug nuts over studs, they'd use a bolt that threaded into the drum. PITA to get a wheel lined up if you had to change a tire. Dunno if they still are that way or not, ISTR they still were in the 80s.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have applied never-seize on lug nuts for the last umpteen years and it seems to prevent problems. It prevents deterioration of the condition of the lugs and lug nut threads. They are usually subject to a nastier than normal environment. It does indeed increase the holding force with the specified torque applied, but if you don't cause damage to the lug or nut, why should you care if it is over tight a bit? People talk about over-torqueing with lubed threads all the time. They never seem to talk about reduced holding power from rusty or damaged threads. Except for applications like cylinder heads and connecting rods, I have never been one to take torque values as an absolute gospel. I view them more like a recommendation.

 

[Jstpssng]

I can remember when I was younger some cars had left hand threads on lugs on one side of the car. I can remember being frustrated by having to guess which way to turn the lug nut.

'60s vintage Dodge vehicles were like that. I've always wondered how many people snapped the left hand lugs off by turning them the wrong way.

Some folks are discussing lubricating the threads and I don't think I'd ever do that. However, I would put a dab on the face of the nut where it mates with the aluminum rim. This appears to be where the "stuck" problem is coming from.

I used never seize for years until I started reading about how it prevented wheels from getting torqued properly.

 

[ericm979]

Another odd quirk I never got the point of was old VWs didn't use lug nuts over studs, they'd use a bolt that threaded into the drum. PITA to get a wheel lined up if you had to change a tire. Dunno if they still are that way or not, ISTR they still were in the 80s.

New VWs still have that. And yes it's a pain to get wheels lined up. You can buy or make a rod with one end threaded to fit into a lug bolt hole in the hub. You use that to position the wheel while you put in a couple bolts, then remove it.

 

[etpm]

Some folks are discussing lubricating the threads and I don't think I'd ever do that. However, I would put a dab on the face of the nut where it mates with the aluminum rim. This appears to be where the "stuck" problem is coming from.

When threads are lubed and then torqued to spec they will put more tensile load on the screw and nut. So the screw can stretch too much. There is another solution, I think, to the corrosion issue. Using a thread locker will tend to provide a barrier between different metals which then prevents electrochemical corrosion because of dissimilar metals in contact with each other. You could try contacting Henkel and asking about this. I know, it seems counter intuitive to use a thread locker to keep threads from locking. But I use low strength thread lockers when assembling stainless nuts to stainless screws. The Loctite helps to prevent galling of the threads.And I'm pretty sure that Loctite does not lubricate the threads enough to significantly affect torque values. My memory is hazy regarding thread lockers and torque so my advice may be bad. But if I was you I would contact Henkel and do a little looking on the web.
As an aside, while writing this post I mentioned looking on the web. I have heard so many times from people complaining about money spent on scientific research. They ask what good is it? How will it benefit me? Myself I don't look for or care about any economic benefit. Just getting answers about the way things work, how nature works, how the universe operates, is good enough for me. I know, integrated circuits and computers are so yesterday, what is giving me a big benefit now? How about those scientists at CERN spending billions just to look for the particle that proves the existence of the field that gives other particles mass which in turn makes our universe possible. What a waste of money. Except that they invented the World Wide Web.
Eric

 

[Paystar]

I recently had to try and help a newish Ram and a Jeep owner on the side of the road trying to get their swollen lug nuts off to change a tire. So it's not just Ford's.

My friend just got uncoated steel replacement nuts for his F150 and that's what I'll do if I keep mine past warranty.

 

[bcp]

I've had three Jeeps with the two-piece lug nuts. No problem at all. We get plenty of water but no salt.

Bruce

 

[bmaverick]

Other than Deep Creek, the next solution without breaking the lug off with the nut is using an angle grinder. It's a little chore, but careful cutting will get the nut off enough to split it in half exposing the threads. When I get 'close enough' a screw driver to pry the nut apart works.

Yes, I've owned Dodge's like this. Those cheap lug nut chrome covers trap in moisture on the steel nut that is totally untreated, thus it swells with rust inside. Deep Creep works when it can get into that tight area and soaks into that rust. It's a gamble every time I come across this event.

There are a few companies that offer SOLID replacements. Those may not be fully chromed, but they are polished and treated. Better than the 2 piece OE versions.