Truck rant. And don't know what to do.

[MinnesotaEric]

2018 or newer F150 with that eco boost 3.5L all new design mostly working out the bugs in the engine. The six speed Ford transmission has been robust. I have no idea about the new-codeveloped with GM transmission.

My 2011 F150 with the original, flawed 3.5L eco-boost has been good on ride quality, needed a timing chain, guides and phasers at 120K. It shelled the 10" differential carrier this summer so I swapped in a Eaton True-Track and will never need to think about that again.

For the eco-boost engine (this is true of all turbo engines with an intercooler) drill a 1/16th hole at the lowest point in the intercooler. OEMs cannot do that due to emissions, but you can and in doing so will keep your intercooler working at peak performance. I also added the largest racing catch can I could get my mits on to redo the silly emissions that sent crankcase gasses back into the intake. In comparison to my original design, the new designed 3.5L fixes this, but this emissions issue builds carbon up on the backside of the intake valves leading to fouling. Ford fixed this by adding an injector that works like a choke on the warmup by adding fuel to the intake that washes any built up carbon off of the intake valves so no catch can is needed.

So anyway yeah, 2018 or newer F150. Rattle free and nearly any model out-tows your Nissan.

Also GM has a long-overdue class action against their small block V8s for wiping out cams for the last thirty years.

Dodges, I don't know nothing about their 1/2 tons but I don't see any 1/2-tons with 2-or 300,000 miles in my area.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The thing that is putting me off from the Fords right now is that I digging and digging trying to find out the towing capacities of the various 2020 and 2021 versions are and it is almost impossible to tell. Even on the F150 forums there is utter confusion even when trying to buy a new one. Trying to get the towing specs on a used one would be just about impossible. Just trying to find out read diff gearing is driving me nuts. I have a hard time understanding why Ford does this. Three different levels of towing packages the contents of which are totally confusing. Multiple diff gearings with no rhyme or reason why and for what purpose and virtually no way of telling what a vehicle has on it without the original window sticker.

At this point Ford is out, again, unless someone somewhere can show me a fool proof way to know what one of them can tow. The used car salesmen are useless in this regard.

As far as GM and Dodge, well, you know how it is. You build up prejudices based on family and friends preferences. Growing up we were Ford people. My in-law who is a farmer switched from lifelong Fords to Dodges. Had 2 or 3 of them and nothing but trouble. My son-in-law's surveying company has had good long term reliability with Suburbans. But he only drives Fords. My best friend recently had a Suburban that required engine and transmission replacement. He ditched it for an Excursion.

So hard to know. So hard to get past the anecdotes and lifelong prejudices.

Might just have to bite the bullet and go Toyota.

They publish the towing on the backside of their brochure. Its like 13,550 towing pounds for the heavy-half and something like 11,500 for regular half. My eleven-year-old F150 is rated at 11,000. It is also on the door sticked on the drivers jam of every F150. The trucks tow well over their limit but chew up tires doing so. But they ride nice, so there is a trade-off.

 

[Diggin It]

For those of us who want something enclosed and don't need to haul overly heavy trailer loads, what about these odd brand service/delivery vans?

Not sure what they sell for when they get turned back in off lease, but at least you'd know they've been fleet maintained. Who would work on them and what happens with insurance?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

When you look at their brochure, every configuration will have a tow-rating. Looks like max is now 14,000 pounds.

Also, if you wan the extra-huge fuel tank, always get a second year or later production of the truck (in F150s case, the 2019 or later) because emissions testing is only done of the first year trucks and to keep them as light as possible, the larger tank is not offered in the first year of new designs.

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/guides/21Towing_Ford_F150_Dec3.pdf

 

[ultrarunner]

I’m approaching crossroad with my 1985 g20 Chevrolet Van…

It is set up the way I need for my mobile work with compressor, inverter, shelves, tool boxes and racks.

180,000 on original 305 carbureted V8… replaced water pump twice, alternator and starter and cat once… otherwise no issues.

Curbside weighs in around 9,100 pounds before I add a water heater or lumber etc.

All the computer issues friends have with all their new trucks like limp home and being stranded or weeks in the shop give me pause…

MPG and ability to pull a trailer severely anemic compared to today’s offerings.

That said it seems Dodge is winning over more truck buyers.

 

[Rowdy Redneck]

For those of us who want something enclosed and don't need to haul overly heavy trailer loads, what about these odd brand service/delivery vans?

Not sure what they sell for when they get turned back in off lease, but at least you'd know they've been fleet maintained. Who would work on them and what happens with insuranceis

For those of us who want something enclosed and don't need to haul overly heavy trailer loads, what about these odd brand service/delivery vans?

Not sure what they sell for when they get turned back in off lease, but at least you'd know they've been fleet maintained. Who would work on them and what happens with insurance?

Is that not a Ford transit?

 

[DieselBound]

Another option:

A 12 valve dodge diesel with the inline fuel pump and rebuild it with upgraded transmission, suspension parts, seats and so forth.

Don’t know how the cost would compare to a newer PU But if done properly it would make a nice drive and should last for a time.

I've got a 12V, 1994. For sure, one of the best engines ever made. Dodge trucks, however, suck. Transmissions and suspension are things that Dodge, then RAM, just failed at (though the later automatics ARE good; suspension is still sub-par- a friend bought a 2018(?) 3500 and he had a recall for a "fix" to the suspension, they were going to weld something and my friend said he'd rather got aftermarket and get a better replacement). My beef is that for the price of these things there shouldn't be ANY issues: I was looking at stuff that's pushing into the $90k range.

I'll keep my 94 as my farm truck: upgraded steering linkages/rods; dual disk and tuned IP. Dropped the idea of getting something to hook up a trailer to and go traveling: not worth the hassle and cost.

New trucks are items that are sold to folks with businesses who can "write off" some of the costs (get them for less as well).

I don't know how new trucks are but newer cars suck !

GF has a 2015 Hyundai. It burns more oil than gasoline ! I know I'm stretching it a little, but to design cars to burn 1 qt of oil per thousand miles is just unacceptable to me .
When discussing this with the service Dept. , they claim it's normal these days. said they also own the Toyota store next door and toyota specs. the same .

I have owned vehicles my entire life and never had a vehicle to burn a qt of oil between 5 K changes.

So, I did a little research on the matter, and sure enough, car makers are building engines with less tolerances, causing less friction, which results in getting better gas mileage as mandated by the government !

Burning that much oil causes other issues, it shortens sensor life and spark plug life, and who knows what else !

I have no idea what you gain by getting better fuel mileage at the expense of burning more oil !

Are newer trucks required to meet these same gasoline mileage mandates ? IDK, but it may be worth checking into before you make the purchase. I found all my info on the hyundai forums

I believe it's turbos that are the issue. Seem to recall this very thing with VW gassers. If NOT a turbo engine then that's certainly BAD. Meanwhile... my ALH TDIs might consume 1qt in 10k miles (10k oil change interval).

 

[deserteagle71]

I believe it's turbos that are the issue. Seem to recall this very thing with VW gassers. If NOT a turbo engine then that's certainly BAD. Meanwhile... my ALH TDIs might consume 1qt in 10k miles (10k oil change interval).

Wrong. At least with the Ford F150, it is the non-turbo V8 that has had recalls due to excessive oil consumption. Also with the GM trucks - the V8 engines with cylinder deactivation had oil consumption problems.

 

[deserteagle71]

Also, if you wan the extra-huge fuel tank, always get a second year or later production of the truck (in F150s case, the 2019 or later) because emissions testing is only done of the first year trucks and to keep them as light as possible, the larger tank is not offered in the first year of new designs.

???
Every F150 from 2015 on has had the 36 gallon gas tank as an option. I have it on my 2016 and I love it. For example, with 357 miles on the odometer since the last fill-up I still have 438 miles of driving range left. That's important, out here where gas stations are few and far between.

 

[deserteagle71]

All the computer issues friends have with all their new trucks like limp home and being stranded or weeks in the shop give me pause…

Me too.

I've been contemplating replacing my 16 year old Jeep Wrangler with a new model. But reading about all the electronic problems on the Jeep forums scares me to death. Can you imagine? Out in your Jeep, a hundred miles from pavement, and this message comes up?

Guy said the Jeep shut down and had to be towed!

 

[DieselBound]

Wrong. At least with the Ford F150, it is the non-turbo V8 that has had recalls due to excessive oil consumption. Also with the GM trucks - the V8 engines with cylinder deactivation had oil consumption problems.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163578-0001.pdf

Kind of a let down after I had figured the Ecoboost was pretty much without fault. Audi (VAG) did settle a class action law suit (I'll forgo posting info here as others can, if they wish, actually find this kind of information via simple Internet searches).

 

[mikester]

The truck you want doesn't exist yet.

I'm closing in on 80 years old and have had a lot of trucks in my time. They ALL have problems, if not sooner then later.

Canada is now averaging $1.50/L or about $6/gallon for gas.

I won't be looking for a gas guzzler as a commuter vehicle. Trucks are now pushing $100K once the dealer packages are added on and the monthly fuel bills end up being the equivalent of a mortgage payment you could have bought a house with.

Pretty expensive toilet paper.

 

[N80]

My commute is 4 miles.

 

[dodge man]

When people say a F150 has a 14,000 tow rating, in theory it’s true. In reality, they don’t exist. As N80 has stated, it’s not that easy. I’d bet good money most F150’s have a rating between 8000 and 9000 pounds. The 14,000 rating is for an XL F150, no added options, regular cab long bed, heavy duty payload package, max tow, 3.5 eco boost, 2 wheel drive. You don’t see many of those on the lot.

If you start researching engine problems you will drive yourself insane. The hemi’s have had lifter, cam and valve problems. Common, no, but it’s there, usually at higher miles but not always.

The Ford 5.0 from 2018 and newer? They changed the way they lined the cylinders. It seemed they fixed it but the first couple of years, 2018 and 2019 some will use oil. I know someone that is adding 6 quarts between oil changes.

Chevy and their cylinder deactivation? Yeah, some are burning oil.

Toyota has had rust problems in the past. You can go on and on, they all have issues.

 

[Hay Dude]

Me too.

I've been contemplating replacing my 16 year old Jeep Wrangler with a new model. But reading about all the electronic problems on the Jeep forums scares me to death. Can you imagine? Out in your Jeep, a hundred miles from pavement, and this message comes up?
View attachment 731396

Guy said the Jeep shut down and had to be towed!

My 2008 F-550 6.4L did the same thing to me, twice. Sensor failures. Once was while towing a load of hay pretty far from home.
I dont know if itll make you feel any better, but Ive had a 2020 Jeep Rubicon a while now and not a single problem other than when we purchased it, the radio head unit failed along with backup cam and power mirrors. Fixed immediately by dealer. Has about 40k on it, so not exactly a ton of time, but I really like it. The new ones are pretty stout off road and a lot of fun!

 

[sree251]

I have an 07 5.9 Cummins. A great truck and engine.

That would be a Dodge Ram truck. Yes, the Cummins is a reputable engine since forever.

 

[N80]

When people say a F150 has a 14,000 tow rating, in theory it’s true. In reality, they don’t exist. As N80 has stated, it’s not that easy. I’d bet good money most F150’s have a rating between 8000 and 9000 pounds. The 14,000 rating is for an XL F150, no added options, regular cab long bed, heavy duty payload package, max tow, 3.5 eco boost, 2 wheel drive. You don’t see many of those on the lot.

Yes, as I've said, it is like code breaking to find out this information. And for whoever said that it is on the door placard I do not see that on any of the listings that show the door placard. You get weight ratings for front and back and then a lot of abbreviations that surely mean something but still probably don't reflect the actual number or added tow packages.

And in fact, some of the F150s are rated as low as 5000 pounds. I don't need a half ton truck that can pull 14,000 pounds. My trailer is not even rated that high. I need a truck that can pull a at least 8000, preferably 9000. Most of the common F150s in the charts are rated between 8100 and 9800. But I'm not going to spend my money on a truck in which I do not know whether it is 8100 or 9800. That is not a small difference. This is even more true when I look at Tundra specs and can easily know exactly what I'm getting in terms of towing capacity....and in all probability a better truck as well. At a cost of course.

I don't know why Ford insists on making this so hard. But, they sell a ton of trucks so apparently it doesn't matter to most people.

The heater in my Titan is magically working again and I'm not as pissed off at this moment and every time I mention getting a new (used) truck my wife groans and rolls her eyes. We just paid the Titan off this week.

 

[dodge man]

I would say most of the trucks you would buy would meet your tow requirements as long as it has the trailer backup knob, which comes with the two decent tow packages. But the way, I think the lowest tow package comes with just a hitch and the wiring, which is probably the one rated at 5000 pounds.

 

[aczlan]

The problem is that there are three levels of tow packages that change these ratings. It is very hard to tell what tow package a truck has if you don't have the dealer window sticker. I've been digging deep in the F150 forums and there is no clear consensus even among "experts". Plenty of tables and brochures presented but no real clarity. Even guys with new trucks find that they did not have what they thought they had. Anyway, even though I'm a Ford guy second after being a Nissan guy, I am writing Ford off, again, for this very reason. Even if, as you say, it can be determined with due diligence, it is ridiculous to me that that is necessary.

Window stickers are easily available for newer trucks:
Ford F-150 Window Sticker Generator
Or: Use your VIN number to get Ford Window Sticker

I don't know how new trucks are but newer cars suck !

GF has a 2015 Hyundai. It burns more oil than gasoline ! I know I'm stretching it a little, but to design cars to burn 1 qt of oil per thousand miles is just unacceptable to me .
When discussing this with the service Dept. , they claim it's normal these days. said they also own the Toyota store next door and toyota specs. the same .

I have owned vehicles my entire life and never had a vehicle to burn a qt of oil between 5 K changes.

So, I did a little research on the matter, and sure enough, car makers are building engines with less tolerances, causing less friction, which results in getting better gas mileage as mandated by the government !

Burning that much oil causes other issues, it shortens sensor life and spark plug life, and who knows what else !

I have no idea what you gain by getting better fuel mileage at the expense of burning more oil !

Are newer trucks required to meet these same gasoline mileage mandates ? IDK, but it may be worth checking into before you make the purchase. I found all my info on the hyundai forums

Hyundai specifically had issues with their i-4 engines, the rings wear much faster than they should and allow it to use oil, the only fix is a full teardown.

I call BS about newer cars burning oil. I’ve never had any vehicle that needed to add oil between changes, old or new.

Hyundai, GM, Ford and Dodge have all had recent issues, Hyundai with their oil control rings on the pistons, GM and Dodge with their variable displacement engines and Ford has had a couple different issues depending on the engine.
They all make good trucks and they all make occasional lemons.


Aaron Z

 

[Dftodd]

Yes, as I've said, it is like code breaking to find out this information. And for whoever said that it is on the door placard I do not see that on any of the listings that show the door placard. You get weight ratings for front and back and then a lot of abbreviations that surely mean something but still probably don't reflect the actual number or added tow packages.

And in fact, some of the F150s are rated as low as 5000 pounds. I don't need a half ton truck that can pull 14,000 pounds. My trailer is not even rated that high. I need a truck that can pull a at least 8000, preferably 9000. Most of the common F150s in the charts are rated between 8100 and 9800. But I'm not going to spend my money on a truck in which I do not know whether it is 8100 or 9800. That is not a small difference. This is even more true when I look at Tundra specs and can easily know exactly what I'm getting in terms of towing capacity....and in all probability a better truck as well. At a cost of course.

I don't know why Ford insists on making this so hard. But, they sell a ton of trucks so apparently it doesn't matter to most people.

The heater in my Titan is magically working again and I'm not as pissed off at this moment and every time I mention getting a new (used) truck my wife groans and rolls her eyes. We just paid the Titan off this week.

Older models they used to list the gvw and gcvw of a vehicle on the door placard. To figure out towing capacity, you just had to subtract the gvw from the gcvw.

Looks like they quit doing it on the newer vehicles as someone pointed out to me.