Newbie question

   / Newbie question #21  
Agree with rScotty. Define what you need/want the tractor for then find the best brand in which capability and budget meet. That might entail not getting some bells and whistles compared to a lesser known brand.

The problem with buying a potentially lower end brand is that small problems can end up costing a lot if parts and dealer know-how are in short supply.

I don’t know enough about this brand to comment and getting in on the ground floor of an emerging brand can be great…..if it turns out to be a good brand. That’s always a risk though.
 
   / Newbie question
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Agree with rScotty. Define what you need/want the tractor for then find the best brand in which capability and budget meet. That might entail not getting some bells and whistles compared to a lesser known brand.

The problem with buying a potentially lower end brand is that small problems can end up costing a lot if parts and dealer know-how are in short supply.

I don’t know enough about this brand to comment and getting in on the ground floor of an emerging brand can be great…..if it turns out to be a good brand. That’s always a risk though.
Well I plan to mostly be falling trees and bush hogging with it. I’m planning to purchase undeveloped lots and developing them into building lots.
 
   / Newbie question #24  
Less than 20k for one with a cab and ac/heat. I want to have my first tractor be cheap so if I break it while learning it won’t put me under.
The Norwegian review said 30000 Euros and that was a year ago, that would make it about $36000 now with inflation, Where are you going to get one under $20K?
 
   / Newbie question
  • Thread Starter
#25  
The Norwegian review said 30000 Euros and that was a year ago, that would make it about $36000 now with inflation, Where are you going to get one under $20K?
There’s a video on YouTube of a guy who bought his direct from China for 15900. That was probably 4 years ago now.
 
   / Newbie question #27  
The more bells and whistles the more
chance you have of something going
wrong. IMHO a plain jane is better than
one with all the electronics on it. You
have a better chance to fix it yourself!

willy
 
   / Newbie question #28  
Track loader or mini excavator might be better tools for site prep.
 
   / Newbie question #29  
Cab tractors and trees don’t play well together. Ag tractors used for forestry work or clearing are usually heavily modified.
 
   / Newbie question #30  
I think it's a good idea to create building lots, but there is no new tractor on the market that will even come close to doing this work for your $20K budget.

In that range you can probably find an older US tractor in the 80 to 100 hp range that runs OK, worn but not broken - and fix it up. Right now older 2wd Agricultural/Farm Tractors are some of the best buys on the market.

Many of the ones I've seen are mechanically OK, but worn. They are being sold because of problems with the electricals and hydraulics. Electrical problems are usually simple and cheap to fix.

And none of these choices have the power and weight to work a tree clipper on anything bigger than a sapling. You'll be chainsawing a lot. .
 
   / Newbie question #32  
Using a tree clipper.
I think you would be better off using a chain saw and buying a grapple to move the felled trees. I seriously doubt a 50 hp tractor will have enough flow and pressure on a tractor to take down anything more than just saplings. The ones I've seen are designed for a skid steer which is heavier and has considerably more hydraulic flow than a tractor. For the small stuff perhaps an offset flail with the heavy duty hammers for the saplings
 
   / Newbie question
  • Thread Starter
#33  
I doubt you'll find this a good match for most tractors regardless of brand. CTL, yes, though still with caveats.
Even the mini clip? I’ve seen a small tractor using that.
 
   / Newbie question
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I think you would be better off using a chain saw and buying a grapple to move the felled trees. I seriously doubt a 50 hp tractor will have enough flow and pressure on a tractor to take down anything more than just saplings. The ones I've seen are designed for a skid steer which is heavier and has considerably more hydraulic flow than a tractor. For the small stuff perhaps an offset flail with the heavy duty hammers for the saplings
Well then I’ll need a skid steer too. I’ve been looking at a couple. I’ll have to use a chainsaw for bigger softwoods that aren’t valuable to the properties, but if I can get something that will cut 12 inch trees or smaller that will save me a ton of time.
 
   / Newbie question #35  
Hi,

im going to be buying my first tractor and the tractor I was looking at has a 12x12 shuttle shift. I’m wondering how similar this transmission is to a semi truck 10 or 13 speed? Can I “float”? If I’m going from low range to medium do I go to medium range while in 4th and then when I shift I’ll go to 5th gear by shifting back to 1? Can I go from mid range forward straight to mid range reverse? Will it hurt the transmission if I start in 5th on level ground? How difficult would a 75 hp tractor be for someone who has tractor trailer experience?

Thank you!
I read through the responses and did not see this mentioned, which was something I did not understand at first. If you want to be in 4th gear, you do not start in first and shift your way to 4th like a road vehicle. Instead you chose 4th gear from a stop, chose forward or reverse with the shuttle shift, and then simply release the clutch. Even more strange you can do this at any rpm selected.
Today clearing snow I selected fourth at 2400rpm - the tires did spin a bit before I got up to speed but it was all good.
 
   / Newbie question #36  
Even more strange you can do this at any rpm selected.
Today clearing snow I selected fourth at 2400rpm - the tires did spin a bit before I got up to speed but it was all good.
I throttle down between shifts or forward/reversing using the foot throttle vs leaving at at a higher rpm.
Smoother and easier on the clutch IMO.
 
   / Newbie question #37  
Clearing and moving trees from encroachment is an ongoing chore on our hillside farm. The HST transmission works best. For loader work, clearing with bush hog and transporting debris to the gully digester. Having to thread grapples of debris thru wooded driveway. I’ve used shuttle gear transmissions before and are OK and are preferred for more open work like haying and pasture clippings. For tight work prefer the HST. Bushhog clearing, Stump grinders, brown tree cutters, grapples, Danuser Intimdator all can benefit with HST control.

Digging stumps with tractor based machines takes considerable time and mess. Better to use the trees’ stem to lever the rootball out and then cut.

For clearing hiring someone with experience and the right equipment makes it look easy and usually the best financial investment. Maintaining and finish work might be a better return for your investment and learning curve.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

PALLETS OF HEAVYEQUIPMENT (A58214)
PALLETS OF...
2017 CATERPILLAR 420F2 IT BACKHOE (A60429)
2017 CATERPILLAR...
2021 Club Car Carryall 500 Electric Utility Cart (A59228)
2021 Club Car...
1996 John Deere 770 Tractor w/ backhoe
1996 John Deere...
2017 HAMM HD+140I DBL DRUM ROLLER (A60429)
2017 HAMM HD+140I...
TANK MANIFOLD (A55745)
TANK MANIFOLD (A55745)
 
Top