Can't disconect my Quick Conect Coupler Loader 1520

[dirttoys]

yesterday I unscrew one of the hydrolic line. I was left with the Elbow,Coupler femele and male. I was eable to rotate the Elbow,and femele Coupler. I have tap,pry put oil and evrything I could think of. Then I try with somone else To grip on the Elbow and and collar to try to have only the collar rotate... No luck... the collar is sease...

I know I am the one to say break the line and don't pry too much

Now that you have no pressure and the elbow is free.

Blast it with lube, lock the collar with vice grips whatever, and get a pipe wrench on the elbow. Work it back and forth, and add plenty of blaster or whatever. They will come.

As others have mentioned, can you get vice grips on the elbow and and pull straight?

Best,

ed

 

[grsthegreat]

just post the video to youtube and add the link here.

 

[Engineer42]

I gotta ask. Are you pulling up or pushing down on the collars? If I read most of these correctly you are being told to tap them down. They look like you need to be sliding them up. Spray them with PB again, put a pair of vise grips on one close to the bottom, rotate if possible while pulling up on the vise grips and pushing down slightly on those hose.

I could be wrong, but they really look like they need to be pulled up to me. Make sure you get some PB spritzed underneath

 

[Cycledude]

No, wait. Don't cut anything just yet. I'm trying to show video I took about noon here in a Wisconsin, showing how to disconnect the couplers.
As far as 5030, he has a LONG, LONG history of being disagreeable on this forum. Pay him no mind.

How about just posting a picture showing one of your couplers disconnected ?

 

[lpakiz]

If those couplers are in a place prone to rust and dust and junk getting in them, wrap them in a paper towel or rag, then secure the rag with wire or zip strap, then soak the rag with heavy oil.
Keeps the junk out and keeps them moist with oil. Worked on the sander connections on a County Truck, anyway.

grs, telling me to just post it on YouTube is like telling a blind man to not step in a cow pie. Good advice, just doesn't work with me. But thanks anyway.

 

[lpakiz]

Cycledude,
yeah, I could do that. But the videos shows the action, and what moves where. I'll get a few pics tomorrow, fwiw.

 

[grsthegreat]

well i tried.

only way i know to post a video here

 

[lpakiz]

Hey grs,
if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

 

[5030]

Mine don't on my Kubota's as the connects on the loader are not disconnect under pressure, the remotes are. My couplers are so tight on the one tractor I always tear up my hands getting them apart and Kubota (in the infinite wisdom) makes the hoses just long enough with nothing extra so no wiggle room at all. Just glad I don't perform that chore very often.

 

[grsthegreat]

Hey grs,
if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

I sent you a private message

 

[grsthegreat]

Hey grs,
if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

Heres the link. I really like those couplers. Never seen that kind before.

 

[tgrashopper]

Ipakiz, thanks for clueing me in. I wasn't aware; this forum generally does a great job at keeping things civil. (I see his post has been deleted, glad to see that.)

grasshopper, one thing you need to keep in mind: on my 2310, and I suspect a number of other M-F tractors, Massey-Ferguson very often makes things --wires, cables, hydraulic lines, etc.-- just as short as they can while still being able to do the job. If you cut off your couplers, your hose may well end up 1-2" too short to work with a new coupler fitting, making it necessary to replace the entire hose.

Some of those are long! If you end up replacing the hoses that are connected to both male and female couplers, that's a total of eight hoses, not a job I'd look forward to... though you would end up with new hoses, not necessarily a bad thing. I've had to replace three of my hoses so far -- a 2007 model purchased in 2008, now with a bit over 1000 hrs on it.

Thanks for the tip. i did'nt not tought about that. Mine is a 2008 and the previus oner told me he had to change some hose because he broken them but I do not know witch one.

 

[tgrashopper]

Heres the link. I really like those couplers. Never seen that kind before.

@ lpakiz These are in fact verry interesting.I don't think it's the same type as mine. But I'll try.

I'll take picture on the name and number on them tomorow.

 

[lpakiz]

Many thanks to grsthegreat for posting this.
For some reason, I thought every later model Massey had these couplers. Guess I gotta get out more.....

 

[Cycledude]

Those look like what I would call break away couplers and are very common on lots of equipment but not usually the newer small tractors which surprises me. Wish my LS came With break away couplers, that could save a lot of expensive trouble someday .

 

[npalen]

The breakaway couplers are nice but, in my experience, on the expensive side.

 

[lpakiz]

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply reversing which component needs to move to hook or unhook.
As far as saving expense by "breaking away" they sure would and did, in the case of a plow hitch tripping when you hook a root or rock, or forgetting to disconnect them when unhooking an implement.

Alas, as soon as you put an elbow next to them, they won't unhook. The side torque puts them in a bind and they won't, at least until it bends the bracket enough to make the pull straighter, and I'm not sure even then, that they would unhook.
I can tell you that just to unhook them manually, you need to grasp them as close to the elbow as possible and usually I hold the hose part "in" with a little pressure, to counteract the side torque. The little hook I made helps to put the pull as close as possible to the centerline. I think a loop of wire, a shoelace, or zip strap could serve the same function, and even allow you to use a screwdriver, a short length of rod, or a sliver of wood for the tee-handle.

 

[npalen]

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply reversing which component needs to move to hook or unhook.
As far as saving expense by "breaking away" they sure would and did, in the case of a plow hitch tripping when you hook a root or rock, or forgetting to disconnect them when unhooking an implement.

Alas, as soon as you put an elbow next to them, they won't unhook. The side torque puts them in a bind and they won't, at least until it bends the bracket enough to make the pull straighter, and I'm not sure even then, that they would unhook.
I can tell you that just to unhook them manually, you need to grasp them as close to the elbow as possible and usually I hold the hose part "in" with a little pressure, to counteract the side torque. The little hook I made helps to put the pull as close as possible to the centerline. I think a loop of wire, a shoelace, or zip strap could serve the same function, and even allow you to use a screwdriver, a short length of rod, or a sliver of wood for the tee-handle.

I must have been thinking of the "connect under pressure" couplers when mentioning the increased price. I agree that using the collar for the mounting is basically the only difference in the breakaway setup.

 

[lpakiz]

Yeah, I think that type is expensive. Usually I've seen them on skid steers. I've attempted to couple those types several times and never succeeded. Another guy will come along and do it easily. I believe those are what are called "flat face".

To install the "just pull to unhook" couplers requires that the coupler collar be mounted to a stout bracket and they must be supplied with a flexible hose, behind the coupler, to allow the "guts" to all slide when push or pull force is applied. On grasshoppers valve bank, the couplers are installed ridgidly, so no chance of the sliding motion necessary to make them work.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I figured I'd make a new thread other then my Float Thread. In my journey trying to disassemble my loader joystick. I can't disconnect my hydrolic. the collar will not slide up or down or turn.

Any idea ?

It's a 2008 and I don't think they have ever been disconnected before.

I've been fighting these sticky hydraulic couplers for years. The solution that works for me is this cheap welding clamp from Harbor Freight:

Welding And Sheet Metal Clamp Set, 2 Piece

Amazing deals on this Welding & Sheet Metal Clamp Set 2Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I used an angle grinder to open the jaws enough to fit the slot on the coupler barrel:

It spits a bit of oil but it even works on lines with some pressure in them.