First time tractor buyer

[Robert O'Linn]

I am shopping for my first tractor. I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahai. Property surrounded byOak trees and some pine.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it. I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. Not interested in doing hay. I am planning on starting an orchard so I will need something to help me drill holes for planting trees.Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.
Dealerships in area are John Deere, Kubota, Massey Ferguson, New Holland, Kioti, Rural King and Tractor Supply-Yanmar.
Here is what they recommend tractor wise;
John Deere-3046R
Kubota-M7060HDC or M5400HST
Massey Ferguson-MF2850M or MF2860M
New Holland Workmaster 55 or Workmaster 65
Kioti-CK2610M
Rural King-37HP Shuttle Shift Transmission
Tractor Supply-No recommendations they only carry the SA221 or SA424. There are no dealerships in my area.
Any advice is welcome for this first time tractor buyer.
Thank You

 

[deezler]

Did you go sit on and try out all of those tractors? Pretty good list of candidates there, but some big differences, too. You need to feel them all out to really learn what you prefer and what is most comfortable.

For the Kioti, 25 BHP is not a lot if you need to brush hog thick stuff. The ck3510 or 4010 might suit you better.

I would definitely get an HST trans if you plan on doing much loader work. Way less fatiguing.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of suggestions here. Whats your budget? Those tractors cover a pretty big range.....

 

[jjp8182]

Would definitely recommend the forks as they can be used for a lot of general material handling.

Suggest strongly consider adding a grapple for dealing with fallen trees/brush/branches and cleanup from pruning. ..particularly if you're already looking at a loader mounted auger.

Would the bucket and box blade be for manure handling or dirt? or a mix? ...can lead to some different considerations (e.g. a box blade for clearing stalls could be lighter, wider and not need rippers)

 

[CH4Ohio]

Whatever you get, I'd recommend a hydrostatic transmission on that size tractor. Much easier in every way.

Edit -- I just re-read your list of candidates. There's a huge difference in those recommendations as far as size and horsepower is concerned. I'd suggest you try to narrow the size and HP and weight parameters down first.

I do really like the size of that RK37HST tractor and the way it's built. Don't have one, but I really like it. Wish they had a belly mower option for it . . . that might push me over the edge. I'd say a tractor about that size would do a good job on 20 acres and it's available with a climate-controlled cab. Lots of people don't like RK and I'd say if you don't plan on doing your own repair and maintenance then you might not want one. The equivalent in Kubota would be a mid-size L series. The M series they recommended are MUCH bigger.

 

[dodge man]

The tractors you listed are quite a bit different and don’t really compare. For example the Kubota tractors are quite a bit bigger than the JD. I’d say look at those recommendations and narrow down the size.

 

[jeff9366]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor weight is more important identifying compact tractor capability than tractor horsepower.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after eight years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.


I am shopping for my first tractor.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahia.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it.
I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. I plan on starting an orchard so I will need something to drill holes for planting trees.

Not interested in doing hay.

Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.

The Three Point Hitch tractor has been marketed in the USA since 1939. Patents on the Three Point Hitch and TPH hydraulic controls expired in 1955. Since 1955 (66 years) all traditional compact tractors have been designed and produced around the Ferguson Three Point Hitch, worldwide.

The traditional tractor design is generic.

For 16 acres of workable ground and the demands of animals I suggest at 4-WD tractor of 3,500 to 4,200 pounds bare tractor weight. This is the mid-weight of compact tractors, a high unit volume segment. Every tractor manufacturer offers at least two models, an economy and a deluxe tractor, in this weight range.. All offer HST. All are 66" wide, plus or minus a smidge. All will comfortably pick up 2,000 pounds with the loader. Horsepower options are 40-horsepower to 60-horsepower.

45-horsepower will adequately power a 72" medium duty Rotary Cutter / Bush Hog through tall grass.

A Box Blade is one implement most tractor owners use. Useful for grading, it is also excellent Three Point Hitch counterbalance to Loader lifts. A 700 pound or 800 pound Box Blade will keep tractor rear wheels on the ground.

I am uncertain if you refer to Pallet Forks or a Bale Spear. In either case order the attachment with SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) connection. I use 36" length Pallet Forks for tree work regularly. If you intend to move pallets, 44" or 48" Pallet Forks are better. However, the longer Pallet Forks are much less handy/maneuverable in tree work.

For planting trees with a 3,500 to 4,200 pound bare weight tractor it is hard to beat a $400 Bucket Spade attachment. Order an optional heavy duty FEL bucket if available.

Front-End Loader - BUCKET SPADE TODAY // FEL BUCKET ATTACHMENT

I am a fan of Bucket Solutions' clamp-on Bucket Spade. It is

www.tractorbynet.com

One of Kubota's MX series will be ample for your requirements.
If your budget allows, consider one of Kubota's "Grand L" tractors of 4,000 pounds bare weight and 66" width. Especially recommended for those 55 years of age and north.

Kubota web site:

Tractors - Utility - MX Series | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's MX Series Utility tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

Tractors - Compact - Grand L60 Series | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's Grand L60 Series Compact tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

 

[shooterdon]

When I bought mine, I did a spreadsheet of jobs. Three categories....Regular tasks, occasional tasks, one time or very infrequent tasks along the top. Tractors on the side.

Check the boxes.

Did the same for attachments.

For the occasional and one time tasks I looked at the cost of rentals and/or contracting the job out. For example buying a back how to dig footings and put in a 150 ft trench for power is stupid.

HST is highly recommended. I really like my cab but it may not play well if you planning an orchard.

I love my grapple, but I process 6-7 cords of wood a year. It would be silly for dealing with a couple of downed tress a year. You can do that with forks and forks are more useful and cheaper.

Evaluate you dealer. I had to take both the JD and Kubota off my list due to dealer issues.

 

[IndyJay]

I am shopping for my first tractor. I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahai. Property surrounded byOak trees and some pine.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it. I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. Not interested in doing hay. I am planning on starting an orchard so I will need something to help me drill holes for planting trees.Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.
Dealerships in area are John Deere, Kubota, Massey Ferguson, New Holland, Kioti, Rural King and Tractor Supply-Yanmar.
Here is what they recommend tractor wise;
John Deere-3046R
Kubota-M7060HDC or M5400HST
Massey Ferguson-MF2850M or MF2860M
New Holland Workmaster 55 or Workmaster 65
Kioti-CK2610M
Rural King-37HP Shuttle Shift Transmission
Tractor Supply-No recommendations they only carry the SA221 or SA424. There are no dealerships in my area.
Any advice is welcome for this first time tractor buyer.
Thank You

You may want to visit these dealers and drive some of these tractors to get a sense of scale. The models you list vary greatly in weight and size. For example the Kioti CK2610 is a lot smaller than the rest that you listed. The CK4010 is same size but more HP may be better to handle some of the tasks you mention. For Massey you may want to look at the 1840M; the 2850M is a pretty big tractor, more like the Kioti DK10 series. Also when at the dealer, ask about lead time. Some may have what you need in stock or can get it fairly quickly, others may be out several months or may not even want to commit to a delivery date.

Continue to research here on TBN but also check out YouTube videos that can be helpful in deciding what is best suited for your needs.
Welcome and good luck!

 

[fried1765]

When I bought mine, I did a spreadsheet of jobs. Three categories....Regular tasks, occasional tasks, one time or very infrequent tasks along the top. Tractors on the side.

Check the boxes.

Did the same for attachments.

For the occasional and one time tasks I looked at the cost of rentals and/or contracting the job out. For example buying a back how to dig footings and put in a 150 ft trench for power is stupid.

HST is highly recommended. I really like my cab but it may not play well if you planning an orchard.

I love my grapple, but I process 6-7 cords of wood a year. It would be silly for dealing with a couple of downed tress a year. You can do that with forks and forks are more useful and cheaper.

Evaluate you dealer. I had to take both the JD and Kubota off my list due to dealer issues.

We may have a different viewpoint.
In my opinion, no attachment for a tractor is "stupid" when you are 80+.

 

[jjp8182]

We may have a different viewpoint.
In my opinion, no attachment for a tractor is "stupid" when you are 80+.

..also not "stupid" or "silly" when working in high humidity heat (especially if it's also in direct full sunlight).

It's rare to see utility or construction workers wielding shovels around here (in northern Alabama) seems almost all companies have switched to mini-excavators and/or trenchers. ...which given the heat, humidity and clay content (in most areas) would make sense.

Pretty sure a single day (or trip to the hospital) of heat-related injuries would more than justify the expense of most any tractor implement that can help reduce the potential for such heat stress/stroke.

 

[shooterdon]

We may have a different viewpoint.
In my opinion, no attachment for a tractor is "stupid" when you are 80+.

Maybe stupid was a tad harsh....so let me try again...

Buying an expensive attachment (like a backhoe) that will be used for a few hours may not be prudent if money is tight. Some tasks are better done with rental equipment or hiring a contractor.

Like the OP I have a small place...only twenty acres. In 9 years I have had $600 of backhoe and $300 of dozer work done. All were one time jobs that will never be done again.

One last consideration for the OP. I am fortunate to have two neighbors with tractors. For seldom used attachments we trade off. I bought a landscape grader and my neighbor bought a box blade. I have a grapple, another neighbor has a bush hog. May not be feasible for many folks but worth thinking about.

 

[Williy]

freid1765 That is a FACT! Anyone who calls
attachments for a tractor stupid must not have
any common sense Just had our well
worked on and used the tractor to remove the
top its so heavy that it takes 2 elephants and
a small boy to pick it up and that was with the
bucket and I used the backhoe to dig a trench
so the water would run out and they would have
dry feet!

willy

 

[shooterdon]

freid1765 That is a FACT! Anyone who calls
attachments for a tractor stupid must not have
any common sense Just had our well
worked on and used the tractor to remove the
top its so heavy that it takes 2 elephants and
a small boy to pick it up and that was with the
bucket and I used the backhoe to dig a trench
so the water would run out and they would have
dry feet!

willy

I did not call any attachment "stupid". None of them have a brain. People who have a brain and make foolish decisions can wear the label if it fits.

But let's go with your thinking....is a tractor mounted snowblower a stupid attachment? You live in Texas...do you get snow...do you own one? If you lived in Georgia, would it be a "stupid attachment"? How about Florida? How about Kentucky? Michigan? Manitoba?

Your example is funny though. Justifying a backhoe to dig trench so few workers have dry feet. Plenty of common sense there. Rubber boots like Muck's are affordable and can be easily moved to any job site:

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

And might avoid the need to dig a trench and then fill the trench back in...but let's not let common sense get in the way of using a backhoe to prove to ourselves how necessary it is.

 

[Williy]

I don't think the mucks would work too well
in a little over 3 feet of water and to pay $74.+
for a pair of boots for someone else requires
no common sense for a one time use! I had to
use the tractor to get the top off anyway and
it wouldn't make any sense to use a shovel when
you have the equipment! If ya got it use it if not
forget it! I don't have to justify my backhoe I use it!
About the snow yes Texas does get snow but
here we just wait for it to melt!

willy

 

[shooterdon]

I don't think the mucks would work too well
in a little over 3 feet of water and to pay $74.+
for a pair of boots for someone else requires
no common sense for a one time use! I had to
use the tractor to get the top off anyway and
it wouldn't make any sense to use a shovel when
you have the equipment! If ya got it use it if not
forget it! I don't have to justify my backhoe I use it!
About the snow yes Texas does get snow but
here we just wait for it to melt!

willy

Willy,
You made my point...if buying boots for a one time use makes no sense, then for someone like me who has very limited need for a BH, spending $7k does not make sense either.

As to the snow thing....if someone lives where they get 40" of snow a year, a blower is not a wise investment. But it is a almost a necessity here in northern MI unless you have a plow truck and enough space to push and pile up snow.

There is NOTHING wrong with investing in a BH, or any other attachment, if the user has a need.

I think BH's get a lot of disagreement because they are expensive and some people realize after making the investment they need to justify it. Just about everyone needs a FEL. Most people need pallet forks. Easy things to justify for their versatility. But not everyone needs a BH...just like not everyone needs a blower.

A $7k investment that might get 1-2 hours of work a year is not a good use of my $$$...but we can agree to disagree. If I had 15 hours of BH work a year, I would buy one.

 

[fried1765]

Willy,
You made my point...if buying boots for a one time use makes no sense, then for someone like me who has very limited need for a BH, spending $7k does not make sense either.

As to the snow thing....if someone lives where they get 40" of snow a year, a blower is not a wise investment. But it is a almost a necessity here in northern MI unless you have a plow truck and enough space to push and pile up snow.

There is NOTHING wrong with investing in a BH, or any other attachment, if the user has a need.

I think BH's get a lot of disagreement because they are expensive and some people realize after making the investment they need to justify it. Just about everyone needs a FEL. Most people need pallet forks. Easy things to justify for their versatility. But not everyone needs a BH...just like not everyone needs a blower.

A $7k investment that might get 1-2 hours of work a year is not a good use of my $$$...but we can agree to disagree. If I had 15 hours of BH work a year, I would buy one.

I may not have more than 1.5 hours of BH use per year, but when I need it there is nothing else that will do the job.
Besides, I am an old guy, so I should justify saving money to take it to my grave?
Am not quite there yet, but don't expect I'll be able to spend it when I do get there.
Besides: My L48 TLB is currently worth 25%+ more than I paid for it (used) 2 years ago.

 

[Torvy]

As to the snow thing....if someone lives where they get 40" of snow a year, a blower is not a wise investment. But it is a almost a necessity here in northern MI unless you have a plow truck and enough space to push and pile up snow.

To someone in most parts of Texas, 40" a year would be catastrophic. Average annual snowfall in North Texas is about 2". Panhandle area would get more.

Sometimes down here I wish DOT would be as impractical. They don't have plows because we get so so sporadically. Sure be nice to have. I'd bet they could find other uses for them if they had them.

My first winter in the Milwaukee area (2000), we got 55" in December. Had the blower out every 3 days or so. The rest of the winter, only a few inches. I grew up with snow, but 55" in one month was fairly rare. For me, it is less about inches per year and more about how many times per year do you get 4" or more...especially the wet stuff.

 

[Williy]

I was born and raised in Wisconsin so I do
know what snow is like. Remember back in
the 50's our drive way was covered in snow
5 ft deep was nothing to have to shovel out!
Get blizzards roads get covered and can't pass
for a few days.

About attachments if you need them get them
if you don't forget them! I am old 81 and don't
care to use a shovel as I don't care for all the
aches and pains from using one. 40 years ago
I didn't use power stuff all muscle work but now
its a different story! Its sad that tractors are having electronic problems cheap components usually don't last very long. Computer shop in AZ has quality products on one side and then the cheap stuff on the other side of the shop. Old saying you get what you pay for.

I seen this video on youtube where this guy pulled this rototiller to him with one hand it was 4 or 5 ft long and it sounded like a piece of tin don't know how a company can stay in business making stuff like that.

I left the snow behind very happy without it. Here
not much rain and low humidity even with the high
temps makes me happy. Its dry and dusty but thats
OK by me!

willy

 

[highwing]

I just got a WorkMaster 55 last week and really like it so far, but have not had it for long enough to truly put it through it's paces. Would be happy to answer questions you have about that model.

I looked at WM and Mahindra 6000 series very closely and ended up going with the NH because I liked working with that dealer better.