FEL Mounted Brush Cutter Recommendations

[jeff9366]

We have stubborn vines that grow through the trees. They slide through the rakes.


Cannot you close the grapple halves, clamping the vines?


You will need Gordon's Brush Killer or CrossBow herbicide for sprouts, regardless of equipment used. (2-4d + Triclopyr)

 

[RutnBuck]

Interesting but with only a 40" width it would be slow.
There other mulching heads of 72" need more hydraulics then any small tractor has but they do mention
a power pack which I'm assuming would be a 3point mounted pump and volume tank for hydraulics
which would be a nice combination.

They have a hydraulic FEL mounted version but its rated for a 50HP and above tractor.

 

[RutnBuck]

We have stubborn vines that grow through the trees. They slide through the rakes.


Cannot you close the grapple halves, clamping the vines?


You will need Gordon's Brush Killer or CrossBow herbicide for sprouts, regardless of equipment used. (2-4d + Triclopyr)

Yes I close the grapples but no matter what I do, I cannot get all of it. That being said, when I do go into a thick copse of brush and clamp down on it, I do get out a large chuck, however, no matter what I do, I have to go back with weed whacker to cut the stubborn stuff from the roots.

Crossbow, Tric, etc . . . I should buy stock...I go through it like crazy!

 

[LouNY]

They have a hydraulic FEL mounted version but its rated for a 50HP and above tractor.

Yes, but it also needs 25-30 gpm hydraulic flow.
So the "power pak" would also be required.
I'm not aware of any under 90 hp tractor with that kind of flow.

 

[PatentGuy]

The unit from Hardee has the hydraulic control you want and rear pto driven hydraulics. But it is about 30", so 80 acres will take a while...

I considered it and a ditch bank flail. Saved $3k and bought flail. Should have spent the $3k as maneuverability with the flail causes too many problems.

 

[RutnBuck]

The unit from Hardee has the hydraulic control you want and rear pto driven hydraulics. But it is about 30", so 80 acres will take a while...

I considered it and a ditch bank flail. Saved $3k and bought flail. Should have spent the $3k as maneuverability with the flail causes too many problems.

PatentGuy . . . I checked out the Hardee and like what I see with one exception. The cutter appears to be offset all the time and cannot be moved to point straight forward. My challenge would be maneuvering in the woods with it offset that way. It certainly has the adjustments I need to take care of all my roadways, ditchbanks, etc but not sure it would be good clearing the woods. Thanks for the response though because I had not seen that cutter in my research.

 

[JWR]

Damn software that lost 15 minutes of my wonderful typing !!! I'll try one more time now:

I am full of a lot of things so people tell me so I will be full of comments on your post RutnBuck...
1) I bought the first Lane Shark sold in W.Va. It is a great tool and the guys at the company (Travis and others) give excellent support & are very responsive. It is robust with the 17 gpm flow from my MF2660. It needs 12 to 14 gpm in my view. Extremely well figured out. For example it has the right valving to let it free-wheel when you move the loader up or down, etc. Without that the hydraulic motor powered devices on "open center" hydraulics will cause bone shaking screeching halts (and potential damage) when you interrupt the flow by moving the FEL, etc. The Lane Shark is just plain well figured out for all contingencies.
2) I am not real clear on the scope of your task: I gather you intend to clear the combustible undergrowth in 80 acres of dense (probably evergreen) forrest, correct? If this is as large as it might be, then I agree with others -- go rent a skid steer with mulcher on the front !!
3) I do not like the idea that another co. has 'stolen' the Lane Shark design via buying one and then copying it now selling it as a "Trailblazer." Rubs my sense of fairness the wrong way.
4) The guys at Lane Shark sent me a no-cost upgrade when they did the newer blade carrier and bearings design. It is better in being more sturdy but mainly not throwing blades. The new design is bullet proof.
5) Travis (at Lane Shark) has some very good YouTube videos out on using that tool. Worth seeing. He told me a couple years ago that he was considering a mod that would let you adjust the angle (vertical to horizontal) but I do not know if they went ahead with that. It would be pretty easy to do that yourself actually.
6) I cannot accurately picture your majority undergrowth BUT if it fits the task you may be best off to consider a heavy FEL mounted brush cutter NOT run by tractor hydraulics but rather from a PTO driven hydraulic pump. If you can give up the PTO for long periods while you attack the undergrowth that seems to me to be the way to go. I had one of the very heavy FEL mounted cutters (like a HD bush hog, 3 bladed, hyd motor driven) on my MF2660 initially but my tractor hydraiulics lacked the flow to make it robust. Clogged too often. The PTO driven pump solves that isssue. There are many of these on the market. One example is the "Xtreme Brush Cutter" sold by Skid Steer Loader Brush Cutters tough land clearing applications which come in 60", 72" and 78" widths. These are serious HD cutters and you just have to be able to lift and maneuver it (you best get the smaller one for a JD4100) AND most importantly provide the flow with a PTO driven pump.
7) A very good option in my opinion (if it fits your circumstance) is to rent or else short term own a medium sized skid steer to drive one of these FEL mounted heavy cutters. The skid-steers tend to have way more hyd pump output than your JD and they can handle the CID or other brand heavy cutters. Maybe use one of those to clear the undergrowth the first ime and then long-term just maintain it with a Lane Shark ? The HD FEL mounted cutters are a LOT cheaper than the forrestry mulchers which pulverize good sized trees.

OK, I quit for now. Let us know what you decide and how it works out. Good luck.

 

[JWR]

An advantage of the Lane Shark is that you can use it EITHER in-line straight ahead or offset to the side. That helps with ditch banks, etc. but I can't tell if you have heavier stuff to cut on a regular basis ?

 

[RutnBuck]

Damn software that lost 15 minutes of my wonderful typing !!! I'll try one more time now:

I am full of a lot of things so people tell me so I will be full of comments on your post RutnBuck...
1) I bought the first Lane Shark sold in W.Va. It is a great tool and the guys at the company (Travis and others) give excellent support & are very responsive. It is robust with the 17 gpm flow from my MF2660. It needs 12 to 14 gpm in my view. Extremely well figured out. For example it has the right valving to let it free-wheel when you move the loader up or down, etc. Without that the hydraulic motor powered devices on "open center" hydraulics will cause bone shaking screeching halts (and potential damage) when you interrupt the flow by moving the FEL, etc. The Lane Shark is just plain well figured out for all contingencies.
2) I am not real clear on the scope of your task: I gather you intend to clear the combustible undergrowth in 80 acres of dense (probably evergreen) forrest, correct? If this is as large as it might be, then I agree with others -- go rent a skid steer with mulcher on the front !!
3) I do not like the idea that another co. has 'stolen' the Lane Shark design via buying one and then copying it now selling it as a "Trailblazer." Rubs my sense of fairness the wrong way.
4) The guys at Lane Shark sent me a no-cost upgrade when they did the newer blade carrier and bearings design. It is better in being more sturdy but mainly not throwing blades. The new design is bullet proof.
5) Travis (at Lane Shark) has some very good YouTube videos out on using that tool. Worth seeing. He told me a couple years ago that he was considering a mod that would let you adjust the angle (vertical to horizontal) but I do not know if they went ahead with that. It would be pretty easy to do that yourself actually.
6) I cannot accurately picture your majority undergrowth BUT if it fits the task you may be best off to consider a heavy FEL mounted brush cutter NOT run by tractor hydraulics but rather from a PTO driven hydraulic pump. If you can give up the PTO for long periods while you attack the undergrowth that seems to me to be the way to go. I had one of the very heavy FEL mounted cutters (like a HD bush hog, 3 bladed, hyd motor driven) on my MF2660 initially but my tractor hydraiulics lacked the flow to make it robust. Clogged too often. The PTO driven pump solves that isssue. There are many of these on the market. One example is the "Xtreme Brush Cutter" sold by Skid Steer Loader Brush Cutters tough land clearing applications which come in 60", 72" and 78" widths. These are serious HD cutters and you just have to be able to lift and maneuver it (you best get the smaller one for a JD4100) AND most importantly provide the flow with a PTO driven pump.
7) A very good option in my opinion (if it fits your circumstance) is to rent or else short term own a medium sized skid steer to drive one of these FEL mounted heavy cutters. The skid-steers tend to have way more hyd pump output than your JD and they can handle the CID or other brand heavy cutters. Maybe use one of those to clear the undergrowth the first ime and then long-term just maintain it with a Lane Shark ? The HD FEL mounted cutters are a LOT cheaper than the forrestry mulchers which pulverize good sized trees.

OK, I quit for now. Let us know what you decide and how it works out. Good luck.

JWR . . . thank you for the great response. I have looked at the Lane Shark and it is one of the contenders. To be clear, YES, my intent is to clear the underbrush on my 80 acres and it consists of all sizes of evergreens, Oak, Madrone, blackberries, invasive Scotch Broom and dense copse of 1-2" nuisance brush. I know very well that doing this myself will take time and thats ok as I am patient. In all honesty, I don't have the time or resources to rent a skid steer for $4k/week and do that multiple times in order to clear the land. I need to have a tool available for when I able able to do it. I know the trade off will be that the tool I get will not give me perfect results but I'm fine with "ok" results that at least takes out the bulk of the underbrush.

I will try to post some pictures of what my forest looks like next week, after the 4th. That will give everyone a good idea what I'm dealing with. I have seen LOTS of video with brush cutting attachments but many of those videos are of the terrain in the midwest or out East. I need to see and hear from some of my fellow NW brethren on how they are dealing with their NW forests.

 

[RutnBuck]

Update . . . just got off the phone with a Rep from FORAX. Looking at the FORAX GP40, HP40 and HD72. Leaning towards the HP40 at this time as it seems to be at a price point that is affordable for the performance I expect to be adequate for my situation. Certainly not at the same level as a skid steer but still good. It does require an aux hydro pump run off the PTO but that's acceptable and I actually prefer that as it then makes it a self-contained tool that doesn't stress out my JD.

 

[JWR]

I suspect that Forax will do a good job for you. Probably a little more universal than a rotary mower based unit I'm thinking. I would doubt that the Briggs & Stratton powered version is any good for brush, even light brush. The PTO powered hydraulic motor version should be darned nice. Look forward to your pictures.

 

[beenthere]

What do you all think of this FORAX GP40 . . . https://www.forax.ca/uploads/1/3/6/7/136794484/gp40.pdf

What do YOU think after watching their videos ?? Should be able to decide if you want to sit back of that and run it on 80 acres.
Would like to know your opinion. tks

 

[JWR]

A few thoughts: A 40" width seems small if you are working on most any aspect of 80 acres. Only you can judge that probably. If you have continuous widths of brush to cut it is awfully narrow. If you have mostly spots and well defined places that might be fine. I see that Forax has no choices between 40" width and 72" width which seems odd to me. Something in between those might fit your needs better ??

So long as you are driving it with a pump on the PTO you should be in great shape to use it. The dealer or Forax people should make sure your PTO pump is the right size, flow and plumbing to match it. I have no idea what the Forax website is meaning when they talk of an optional power pack? What is that? A PTO pump or a Briggs and Stratton?

I discourage trying to drive this thing from your tractor hydraulic pump. Will explain if need be, otherwise assuming you are not.

The 380lbs or so should be easy on your FEL with that Deere. Even the 600 & some pound bigger one should not be a problem in that sense.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I just looked at the gp40, and that is a straight up piece of junk at any price.

I'd cross that off my list.

Update . . . just got off the phone with a Rep from FORAX. Looking at the FORAX GP40, HP40 and HD72. Leaning towards the HP40 at this time as it seems to be at a price point that is affordable for the performance I expect to be adequate for my situation. Certainly not at the same level as a skid steer but still good. It does require an aux hydro pump run off the PTO but that's acceptable and I actually prefer that as it then makes it a self-contained tool that doesn't stress out my JD.

 

[ericm979]

If your land isn't perfectly smooth you'll be raising and lowering the FEL a lot to try to follow the contours of the land. It seems like if you can get the tractor and front mulcher into an area you could probably get the tractor and a 5' rotary cutter into the same area... it's not that much larger. Since the rotary sticks out some and mows in reverse (unlike a flail) you can back it under trees that you can't drive under. The rotary of course will follow the undulations of the ground. It might not get to every place you could get that front end mulcher to, but it could be pretty close depending on how far apart the trees are. Of course you can change that with a chainsaw.

Are you planning on brush clearing the entire 80ac? Is it all flat enough to operate on?

A couple other options might be rear mount 3pt mulchers or rotary brush cutters, like what's made by Baumalight.

 

[JWR]

Mechanical Guy -- how about elaborating on what you see & why the Forax is "junk." ?

Ericm979: I don't think a rear mounted anything would work well for what RutnBuck describes. However, he will almost certainly end up owning a medium sized bush hog anyway and may have places where that is the best tool.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Mechanical Guy -- how about elaborating on what you see & why the Forax is "junk." ?

Ericm979: I don't think a rear mounted anything would work well for what RutnBuck describes. However, he will almost certainly end up owning a medium sized bush hog anyway and may have places where that is the best tool.

I watched this link:

That is going to be really high priced, I imagine, and it isn't very capable at all. That will be a regretful purchase if made. My medium duty bush hog will do that in about ten seconds.

 

[LouNY]

Myself I would prefer the mulcher in a larger size over a brush hog for brush as is being worked up in the video.
We use a bat wing and a fixed 3 point and a skidsteer brush hog on the farm.
For trimming back hedgerows and mulching up small trees limbs and brush that mulcher is grinding it up into much smaller pieces.
The brush hogs chop it into much larger pieces and throw them out into the fields especially when elevated and backing into larger brush.
Then the dried limbs and such have to removed from any hay field or it can tear up equipment. The smaller chippings from a mulcher wouldn't have that issue.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

Myself I would prefer the mulcher in a larger size over a brush hog for brush as is being worked up in the video.
We use a bat wing and a fixed 3 point and a skidsteer brush hog on the farm.
For trimming back hedgerows and mulching up small trees limbs and brush that mulcher is grinding it up into much smaller pieces.
The brush hogs chop it into much larger pieces and throw them out into the fields especially when elevated and backing into larger brush.
Then the dried limbs and such have to removed from any hay field or it can tear up equipment. The smaller chippings from a mulcher wouldn't have that issue.

My brush hog leaves no evidence behind. Maybe it's a technique difference. I back into stuff with the hog tilted back at about a 30* angle and then let it down onto whatever with my hydraulic top link. It leaves no evidence of what was there before. It's a thousand times better than the gp40 in that video.

No sticks limbs or otherwise.

 

[RalphVa]

Good day everyone. I have 80 acres of dense forest in Oregon, full of all manner of underbrush like blackberries, poison oak, saplings and of course mature Fir, Pine, Oak and Madrone. While I have always been concerned about clearing the under growth, the extreme fire season last year really put some pressure on me to quicken my pace to clear all that "fuel". Ideally I'd like to get a forestry mulcher on a skid steer but those things are very expensive ($60k +). I had a rear mount bank flail mower on my JD4120 but it was very hard to maneuver in the woods and overall just didn't work well. In all honesty, my JD4120 is kind-a big (wide/long) to be moving through the trees, etc but it is what it is in that regard. At any rate, I recently came across the front (FEL) mounted brush cutters like the Lane Shark, Limb Ninja, Trailblazer, and Path Slayer (and I'm sure there's others). Do any of you have any experience with these and how they performed? Specifically,
1) how efficient are they . . . for example, it appears you have to get off the tractor to adjust the cutter rather than a hydraulic option that lets you adjust angles, etc. Doesn't seem like it would be efficient "in the woods" where I might have to cut flat on the forest floor one second and the next i'm up in the branches of a tree cutting vertical. Do any manufactures you know of make a hydraulic version that provides adjustments on the fly (tilt fwd, curl, tilt left, tilt right, extend right, retract to center)? Basically all the movements a bank flail mower has on the back of a tractor.
2) Please do not make this the center of the conversation because there is risk in most everything we do on a tractor but how safe are they? I have seen numerous videos showing what appears to be safe operation but those videos also are edited so there is "behind the scenes" or bloopers that occur. I assume it's prudent to wear safety glasses or a face shield, but what I'm really looking for is does anyone have any knowledge of real bad stuff happening with these front mount cutters flinging material back at the operator and causing serious injury?
3) Any suggests to help with my situation like recommendations on these FEL cutters or any other attachments that can help me in my situation?

What I have that may assist with FEL mount cutter:
- Front hydraulics for Everything Attachments Wicked Root Rake Grapple (operates by switch on joystick)
- Third Function connections that operated bank flail mower

My territorial rat neighbor to the left hired an outfit that used a Cat-equipped flail mower on the front to clear out between his trees. He'd been renting out the place in the 20 years prior to this year, and it had gotten quite overgrown.