I know, I know same old thread. Lol Help me choose.

[NS Gearhead]

It's finally time to buy my first tractor. Looking at the deere 3025E, Kubota L2501, and Kioti CK2610. There's also the possibility of the kioti CK2610SE cab model. The only factory cab model near being in my price range. Waiting on kubota to get me a quote with a Curtis cab, and they had a soft cab option that bad a hard windshield, but no heater. These 3 dealerships are relatively close to me. I do feel like Kioti's probably the best value with the worst resale value. I may be wrong there.

I plan to use it to clear snow, and loader work. Mostly move and spread gravel and topsoil. I only have 4 acres, but have a small landscaping side business. (Snow and grass) This would be used to clear driveways, but opens up possibilities for other things.

Options I'll be getting are; loader and bucket, pallet forks, rear offset blade, 3rd function, loaded tires, H style ice chains, rear remote or remotes, wheel spinner. Lol Possibly a cab. I plan to make my own counter weight and find a cheap truck plow to convert to skid steer style quick connect.

So, am I way off course here!? Opinions on those models? Should front tires be loaded? I was thinking rear mount snow blower, but rather put that money towards a cab. Oh hang on, I know what will be asked; "how much snow do you get?"... we've averaged 55" in the last 5 years I've been keeping track. 6'11" one year, 2'6" another. We get lots of freeze/ thaw cycles that can produce heavy wet snow and ice.

 

[jeff9366]

All the tractors you are considering a <26 horsepower, so they forego Tier IV emissions paraphernalia.

I believe all have 100 cubic inch, high torque engines which operate at modest rpm.

I believe all have a 3-range HST transmission.

I believe all weigh 2,700 to 2,900 pounds bare tractor weight.

Each represents all the tractor you can buy without Tier IV emissions paraphernalia. The downside is that every one spews high volumes of air pollutants.

I only have 4 acres, but have a small landscaping side business. (Snow and grass)

Determine if one model or all models have sufficient clearance for tire snow chains. Otherwise you will be adding $600 wheel spacers in order to fit snow chains.

All ample for your needs. In a recent post the OP found a Bobcat/Kioti to be $7,000 less than a Kubota L2501 with identical options. For $7,000 less I recommended the Bobcat/Kioti. See following.


MORE: CT 2025 for 9 acres?

 

[dodge man]

I can comment you are looking at nice good sized useful tractors.

I know more about the JD but don’t own that model. The downside is the E models have a weaker loader. For example the 2032r and 2038r loaders are just as strong or stronger is some areas than the 3025e. A R model 3 series has a stronger loader yet. We’re not talking a big difference though 200 to 300 pounds.

The loader can me removed off a 3025e but it’s not as easy as R model. On the other hand the R model tractors cost a lot more making the E model a bargain.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I'm working under the idea that heavy is better... but I can only afford so big. Lol Never thought to look at Bobcat. There's also a dealership nearby. Funny how they skipped 3000 series... but some of their 2000 series seem as heavy as the models I mentioned above.

Can someone explain to me the difference between detent and spring rear remote?

 

[Rdrcr]

I have an L2501 and it’s a great tractor, which I highly recommend.

Definitely get quotes on each. In my area the prices were virtually the same with JD being the most expensive, followed by Kubota, Kioti and Massey Ferguson.

Mike

 

[Rdrcr]

Bobcat is a rebadged Kioti with a proprietary Bobcat loader.

Mike

 

[jeff9366]

I'm working under the idea that heavy is better.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Yes, heavier is almost, almost, always preferable to lighter but 100, 200 or 300 pounds difference in bare tractor weight is immaterial.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Pretty convincing argument there. I did build one online, and couldn't believe it! The loader is half the price of the competition. Cab is 30% less.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I know this is a tractor site, but should I be looking at a used skid steer instead? I realize I'd be loosing the rear 3pt, but I'd be gaining maneuverability, likely weight and power. I could add over tire tracks as well as chains. However lawns would all but be untouchable.

Speaking of maneuverability, I sure would like cutting brakes on my tractor but I think kubota's the only one to offer this feature.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Oh, one more question; I only have a one car attached garage, which is my work shop, so basically whatever I get I have to move out when I want to work. I was thinking of getting one of those car shelters to house implements and the tractor in the non-snow season. Good idea? A 2 or 3 car detached garage is in the plans but not for a while.

 

[sea2summit]

I know this is a tractor site, but should I be looking at a used skid steer instead? I realize I'd be loosing the rear 3pt, but I'd be gaining maneuverability, likely weight and power. I could add over tire tracks as well as chains. However lawns would all but be untouchable.

Speaking of maneuverability, I sure would like cutting brakes on my tractor but I think kubota's the only one to offer this feature.

If you think you want to move snow with a FEL for earning money you absolutely need to go to a skid steer IMHO. Yes you gain maneuverability but you also gain something that's met to be used more like a bulldozer and less like a light duty forklift, by being more maneuverable you increase speed (time is money plowing), you also significantly increase what you can do with the FEL (actual blade work, front mounted blower, front mounted broom, etc). The more you focus with jobs for the front of the tractor the more you need to look at a skid steer and you didn't mention anything about the back end other than an offset blade, and the back end is what tractors are really designed around IMHO.

 

[Egon]

For snow removal in Nova Scotia:

chains, perhaps all four wheels? If pavement travel is anticipated consider studs.

The front blade may not be feasible for heavy wet snow. You may not be able to move snow far enough to the side.

Bucket or snowblower for snow.

No comments on tractor Make. A heated cab would be nice for winter work. Skid-do suit and full face helmet with heated gloves and boots might be an alternative.

 

[workinonit]

If I didn't need the ability to use ground engaging equipment it would be a no-brainer for me. I would own a Kubota skid with tracks and that badass bush hog/tree grinder. That thing is amazing. Anything you need to do with a front end/loader style implement is 100 times easier and more effective with a skid. Unfortunately I have to have a tractor.

 

[dodge man]

I’ve never owned a skid steer or operated them other than to move one around but I have been around them through my work. Just my opinion but they are more expensive to maintain as they get older and the implements often cost more. On the other hand they are a piece of construction equipment and can do a lot more work. There it’s also a very wide variety of attachments for them.

 

[Username Taken]

If you think you want to move snow with a FEL for earning money you absolutely need to go to a skid steer IMHO. Yes you gain maneuverability but you also gain something that's met to be used more like a bulldozer and less like a light duty forklift, by being more maneuverable you increase speed (time is money plowing), you also significantly increase what you can do with the FEL (actual blade work, front mounted blower, front mounted broom, etc). The more you focus with jobs for the front of the tractor the more you need to look at a skid steer and you didn't mention anything about the back end other than an offset blade, and the back end is what tractors are really designed around IMHO.

A skid steer also can't be beat for digging post holes. Those things will dance for you! And you can put the auger right on the money.

But Skid Steers ain't cheap. And they have their limits. Not sure what they aare, but they have them

 

[metalbender]

If your loader work involves getting out of the machine with the loader above the ground, the skid may not be a good solution. For instance hooking up or aligning forks for a lift.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Yeah, as much as I'd like a siney new tractor, if I went the skid steer route it would have to be used... probably 10-15 years old with 1,000-2,000 hrs would fit in my price range for a mid sized machine. I feel like a SS would be more robust, and that would likely effect how well it lasts. Speed isn't a huge factor...I keep to my subdivision for plowing. I've had between 3-10 driveways not including mine (and she's a doozie)

 

[Username Taken]

Yeah, as much as I'd like a siney new tractor, if I went the skid steer route it would have to be used... probably 10-15 years old with 1,000-2,000 hrs would fit in my price range for a mid sized machine. I feel like a SS would be more robust, and that would likely effect how well it lasts. Speed isn't a huge factor...I keep to my subdivision for plowing. I've had between 3-10 driveways not including mine (and she's a doozie)

Yeah, I was looking at an LS advertisement that was talking about a freeloader with a new tractor purchase.
I had one of those for a few years, don't ever want another one.

 

[JonnyRed]

Comparison chart for tractors in your sights.

 

[Williy]

Lots of guys use a 3/4 ton pickup truck to clear parking lots etc. You could use it to pull your
tractor around like a Yanmar SA324 or YT 235

willy