CK35 Burned Out It's Clutch AGAIN?!

[kantuckid]

My 2010 DK35SE clutch went from working normally to being completely in/op.
Any tractor mechanic will say that my 357 hours is nothing for a tractor made to work. I'm long retired and it has days it's used all day then periods it sits week or more then at my sawmill it sits until time to move slabs or lumber so long intervals. It is expected to do what it was intended to do.

I am seeing web sales of Kioti clutch parts and assemblies, likely from China as priced well below OE parts. One ebay seller has two clutches, one call HD. FWIW, the 9 1/2" disc clutch parts for this Kioti DK35 SE are shared by the older DK35 and several other brands, JD, NH and a few others.

Has anyone here used these cheaper Chinese/Indian? clutch alternatives?
I currently lean toward a clutch rebuilder such as KY Clutch in Brooks, KY or FT Wayne Clutch & Driveline. Thanks!

 

[rademamj1]

I want to thank the OP for getting back with the group, and providing some very detailed feedback regarding his CK35 clutch problem. I certainly encourage starting and driving a tractor every couple of months, to discourage clutch plate binding to the flywheel.

 

[sd455dan]

My 2010 DK35SE clutch went from working normally to being completely in/op.
Any tractor mechanic will say that my 357 hours is nothing for a tractor made to work. I'm long retired and it has days it's used all day then periods it sits week or more then at my sawmill it sits until time to move slabs or lumber so long intervals. It is expected to do what it was intended to do.

I am seeing web sales of Kioti clutch parts and assemblies, likely from China as priced well below OE parts. One ebay seller has two clutches, one call HD. FWIW, the 9 1/2" disc clutch parts for this Kioti DK35 SE are shared by the older DK35 and several other brands, JD, NH and a few others.

Has anyone here used these cheaper Chinese/Indian? clutch alternatives?
I currently lean toward a clutch rebuilder such as KY Clutch in Brooks, KY or FT Wayne Clutch & Driveline. Thanks!

I would be specific to the rebuilder on the relined clutch disc facing thickness.
I had one done on a Mercedes 230 SL, and did not give them the factory new width, and although the clutch worked the break over point for the pressure plate was wrong, which and also made the engagement jerky. this was with a freshly turned flywheel .

Ended up replacing the remanufactured disc with a new one from Mercedes. Worked perfectly then.
If that is a 2 stage clutch the facing thickness would be even more critical. Just something to check that I definitely missed on the relining of the disc.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I certainly encourage starting and driving a tractor every couple of months, to discourage clutch plate binding to the flywheel.

You do NOT need to drive it every couple months, just hold the clutch pedal down with a block of wood, and the clutch will work just fine the next time you need the tractor...

SR

 

[fried1765]

Thanks everyone for your comments. Sorry for the long delay but I am finally able to reply after getting what I think is the whole story.

There is good news and bad news.

The good news is that my clutch is not completely gone like I thought it was. So it still has some life left but not much.

The bad news is that it is believed to be 75% gone, after just 135 hours of use, based on the travel of my clutch and the fact that there is very little adjustment left. However, for me and my limited use, that should last me another 5 years or more hopefully, now that I think I know how I got here.

So here's why everyone (an independent mechanic, several experienced farmers, and a dealer friend) thinks this happened again:

1. The flywheel and pressure plate were not replaced or resurfaced when the original clutch went out because the clutch was shredded and the dealer's mechanic at the time thought they "looked ok". In everyone's opinion, maybe they were but then again, maybe they weren't so no one knows if that contributed at all to this problem or not.

2. Not enough HP for what I was doing (front end loader work in the mud which had to get done that day). My fault completely. It did seem that the tractor was struggling a little at times but I thought my CK35 could do anything and was indestructible. I disagree that it was operational abuse of the clutch though because the tires never slipped for more than a split second. But I did run the tractor for 4 hours without stopping so everyone (myself included now) thinks that I put too much stress on the clutch and overheated it a little too much, which wore it down more than it should have so that was ultimately my mistake.

2. Also, even though I had the clutch and brakes adjusted by the dealer 50 hours ago, the actual time it had been since then was about 4 years ago. So both were out of adjustment which contributed to wearing a lot of the clutch up as well. My fault again. I should have checked their adjustments at least once a year.

3. It is also thought that the clutch had likely gotten stuck a little on the flywheel over most of the winters for the last 9 years from sitting outside and from non-use. I should have started the tractor up once a month and ran it around as has been suggested. My mistake once again and so I probably shouldn't even own a tractor.

So, even though I do not believe that there was any operational abuse of the clutch, there was definitely neglect of the tractor and yes, maybe there was a little abuse of the tractor overall because it was undersized for what I wanted it to do that day but I still used it anyway.

So moving forward, I will be more diligent in checking the adjustments of the clutch and brakes, I will start it up and drive it around once a month even during the winter, and if it seems to be struggling at any time, I will not push it anymore.

Then, if the clutch can last another 8 years or so, I'll get a new clutch (and FW and PP) put in it and then it should last until I die I would think.

Thanks again for letting me share my experiences and my frustrations. This is a really good and helpful forum for nubes like me so I'm sure I'll be back at some point in time.

If your tractor sits for long periods outside, you should keep the clutch "blocked".
I have owned one of my tractors (8N) for 50 years, but I leave the clutch blocked when not in use.
I store all 3 of my tractors (inside) for more than 6 months each year!
Best idea: Do not store your tractor outside.
Sun/rain/snow create tractor problems, and can eventually kill a tractor!

 

[Carl_NH]

If your tractor sits for long periods outside, you should keep the clutch "blocked".
I have owned one of my tractors (8N) for 50 years, but I leave the clutch blocked when not in use.
Better yet: Do not store your tractor outside.
Weather is an eventual killer for tractors!

Agree but you "store" a tractor inside, and "park" it outside. My father taught me to provide protection and cover for all our farm equipment in all seasons, if you want them to last, otherwise they age 10-15 years in 2-3 years being outside.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Especially the rubber tires and hoses and the seat and the paint and the dash...

 

[rademamj1]

You do NOT need to drive it every couple months, just hold the clutch pedal down with a block of wood, and the clutch will work just fine the next time you need the tractor...

SR

Umm...now I seem to recall some tractors actually come with a hook near the clutch, for holding the clutch down during long periods of non usage. Having owned only HST tractors, I always forget to mention using the hook or a block of wood.

 

[tradosaurus]

If your tractor sits for long periods outside, you should keep the clutch "blocked".
I have owned one of my tractors (8N) for 50 years, but I leave the clutch blocked when not in use.
I store all 3 of my tractors (inside) for more than 6 months each year!
Best idea: Do not store your tractor outside.
Sun/rain/snow create tractor problems, and can eventually kill a tractor!

I know dealers turn most of their inventory within a year but it seemed odd to have new tractors parked outside at the dealer.

 

[fried1765]

Agree but you "store" a tractor inside, and "park" it outside. My father taught me to provide protection and cover for all our farm equipment in all seasons, if you want them to last, otherwise they age 10-15 years in 2-3 years being outside.

My tractors LIVE inside, 365 nights each year!

 

[fried1765]

My 2010 DK35SE clutch went from working normally to being completely in/op.
Any tractor mechanic will say that my 357 hours is nothing for a tractor made to work. I'm long retired and it has days it's used all day then periods it sits week or more then at my sawmill it sits until time to move slabs or lumber so long intervals. It is expected to do what it was intended to do.

I am seeing web sales of Kioti clutch parts and assemblies, likely from China as priced well below OE parts. One ebay seller has two clutches, one call HD. FWIW, the 9 1/2" disc clutch parts for this Kioti DK35 SE are shared by the older DK35 and several other brands, JD, NH and a few others.

Has anyone here used these cheaper Chinese/Indian? clutch alternatives?
I currently lean toward a clutch rebuilder such as KY Clutch in Brooks, KY or FT Wayne Clutch & Driveline. Thanks!

I bought a Chinesium aftermarket clutch for my Ford 1920.
My recommendation: DON'T DO IT!
My Chinesium clutch lasted 2-1/2 hours,... then a broken finger bolt.
If you want to practice your tractor splitting technique though,......go Chinesium!

 

[kantuckid]

I am very likely to take my clutch assy to KY Clutch & Driveline, Brook, KY, just S of Louisville. I can get the pressure plate machined locally but they will also do (while I wait and I walk out with the whole shebang and save enough to easily pay for the trip!) it at this rebuilder and both places are not next door anyway plus the clutch disc is highly generic part they keep on the shelf. Not Kioti specific at all, these clutche assy's have a fairly wide application of a number of brands. BTW, Chinese mfg. parts for many, many vehicles of all types. Thats not to say there not some below par items around. I currently have a Chinese clone carb on my sawmill Kohler engine thats NLA. My Kioti has a $74 starter bought on ebay, works great and the OE one is not made in the USA or by German elves. $175 for the entire assy, plus tax.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Sawyer. What great advice. Hardwood or Soft? Any particular species to use (or avoid) Roughcut or finished?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Sawyer. What great advice. Hardwood or Soft? Any particular species to use (or avoid) Roughcut or finished?

aaaaaw, your kidding right?? Any chunk of scrap wood will work, I mean how hard is it to hold a clutch pedal down??

SR

 

[Amvcane]

The OP's CK35 has a hook to keep the clutch depressed if the right size chunk of wood can't be found.

 

[RandyT]

Umm...now I seem to recall some tractors actually come with a hook near the clutch, for holding the clutch down during long periods of non usage. Having owned only HST tractors, I always forget to mention using the hook or a block of wood.

Some of the tractors I have seen in the past also came with the block of wood from the dealer.

 

[Highgear]

When an old farmer was asked why he had such a big potbelly ? The farmer said " you always keep a roof over your favorite tool !"

 

[PILOON]

In my youth I drove many sports cars and my everyday cars were VW's.
Each and every one had clutches as does my tractor.
Tractor is at 1800 hrs and clutch is still like new, and never blocked plus lives outdoor.
And I use my FEL a whole lot, like 70% of the time.

I'd suggest it is all about driving habits or maybe who taught U how to drive.

My last clutched car was a Toyota MR2 and it had 80,000 miles on the clutch!

LOL, but in heavy city traffic automatic sure is nice.

Heck I once snapped the clutch cable on a VW and had a 30 mile drive home thru city traffic.
I did carefully plan my route to avoid traffic and lights.
I'd carefully 'feel' matching RPMs to speed and shift w/o grinding.*
LOL, intersection stops and red light were another matter.
I'd do my best to time things right but more than once I'd simply start the VW while in 1 st gear and shift my way onwards.

* once speed matches RPM's you feel a sweet spot and can make a noiseless shift .

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Some stick some don't, it's mostly related to what material the clutch material is made of.

They aren't all created equal...

SR

 

[kantuckid]

My (2010 DK35SE, Shuttle shift) clutch never did stick and it sure doesn't stick now!---> If that's my problem?<---
Please read on...
I took my tractor to a local mechanic rather than have it towed to either of the far-off dealers. Issues came up with the local people not under my control as the the local guy has fallen out with his dad who owns the building, so tractor needs moved and I must tow it again after sitting over a month there.
I've found a suitable new choice near me but they are running a month behind too. Another fairly close good independent is 2-3 months behind.
A very good question is if the problem is the clutch to begin with?
The tractor was started just prior to the no movement senario, in forward or reverse and acted weird in that it would only barely move-creeping very slowly. I tired the shuttle shift F & R & neutral then it decided to begin to move normally again and I proceeded to the woods where I'd just dropped a tree. I drove it up a steep incline in forward then began backing toward the tree down a skid trail. Only after I momentarily went forward a short ways to correct my direction did it suddenly stop moving under power. No loud noises from the tractor at all. Other than the clutch, I have zero idea what's wrong with it? Has, as I recall ~ 385 hours of great performance until it stopped moving itself under power.