Potential 1st time Tractor Owner

[Rookkee22]

I moved out of suburbs to 6 acres - 3 acres with trees and 3 with lawn.

I looked at the Kubota B2650 and B3250 with cab. I need a back and front loader, and something to redo my gravel drive way...

which would you recommend?
Or would a Kioti or Mahindra is better? They seem more economical and has more upgrades without the up charge that Kubota offers.

Which has ones has parts that are more readily available?

Gas or diesel? I don't want to deal with DEF diesel stuff.

In Michigan near Milan


Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I moved out of suburbs to 6 acres - 3 acres with trees and 3 with lawn.

A tractor weighing 1,500 pounds to 2,000 pounds bare weight is about right.

Ground clearance due to larger wheels and tires is the single greatest difference in tractor specs between (all brands) of Subcompact tractors and the lightest Compact tractors. Small tractor wheels drop into holes, disrupting traction. Larger wheels and tires supplied on heavier tractors bridge holes and ruts, increasing traction. Larger wheels and tires permit higher operating speed over uneven ground by reducing implement bounce and operator perturbation.

One can mow a field faster with larger wheels and tires. One or two mph with larger wheels/tires will significantly reduce field mowing time. With 12" ground clearance you can tractor cultivate a garden until crop reaches 12" to 14" height.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth

I looked at the Kubota B2650 and B3250 with cab. I need a back and front loader, and something to redo my gravel drive way...

For three to six acres a Kubota B2650 (obsolete model) / LX2610 (replacement model) will be ample.

VIDEO:

Why do you need a cab? What tractor work has such a priority in your life that you have to work in inclement weather when tractor will rut the ground? Be a fair weather operator, like most non-professional operators posting here.

Front End Loaders (FEL) are extremely useful. 90% of compact tractors are purchased with a FEL.

Backhoes are exceptional at trenching. For tasks other than trenching, most would use the FEL or a Three Point Hitch (TPH) implement. Forego the Backhoe unless you have a lot of trenching to do. Devote the $5,000 a Backhoe costs on a compact tractor to tractor TPH implements. (You can likely have a pro with a mini-excavator do all the trenching you need for $500 - $1,000)

TRACTOR IMPLEMENTS LINK: https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf


Or would a Kioti or Mahindra is better? They seem more economical and has more upgrades without the up charge that Kubota offers.

Tractors have not evolved very far since the TPH was introduced to USA by Ford on the Ford 9n in 1939.

Kubota enjoys around 50% of the market share for compact tractors in the USA.

Mahindra compact tractors are not made by Mahindra, they are made by another manufacturer, badged and painted for Mahindra. Larger Mahinda tractors are manufactured by Mahindra in India.

Korean manufacturing labor is paid 20% less than Japanese manufacturing labor. Korean tractors can be somewhat less money than Japanese tractors. In my opinion, Kioti, LS and Branson are the top Korean tractor brands. However, Kubota dominates the compact tractor category in the USA.

Which has ones has parts that are more readily available?

See above.

Gas or diesel? I don't want to deal with DEF diesel stuff.

There are no new gas compact tractors; all are diesel. Tractors under 26 - horsepower are exempt from strict Tier IV emission controls. Tractors over 26 - horsepower require somewhat complex, somewhat costly pollution controls. DEF begins on tractors with 75 - horsepower.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after eight years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

​

GOOD LUCK with your research and purchase!

 

[ericm979]

The old B3350 had a lot of problems with the emissions system, especially in cold weather. I think they have stopped making them and there is an updated model coming out soon.

DPF isn't mandatory above 25.5 hp. The emissions regs tighten above 25.5 hp and one of the ways manufacturers meet them is with a DPF. Some use a DOC or a DOC+DPF instead. They're generally reliable (the B3350 is the most glaring exception) and make the air you and your family breathe cleaner. Below 25.5hp manufacturers can meet the looser requirements with engine tuning and combustion chamber shape.

Tractor backhoes are often expensive. If you only have a few tasks for the BH you might consider rending a mini excavator. Those will probably do it faster and easier especially if you're doing something that requires repositioning the machine. With a tractor you have to raise the stabilizers, move to the tractor seat to move it, then go back to the BH and lower the stabilizers again. Where with a mini ex you just raise the blade and drive.

 

[Williy]

I ordered the Yanmar YT 235C 35 hp no DEF when the light
on the dash comes on just push the button for 3 seconds and
keep working. First time is 50 hours then every 200 hrs?
Yanmar has the 10 year warranty drive train and is transferable
also you have to stop when the def light comes on approx 10 to
40 minutes or until the system finishes

willy

 

[SoCalRedTractor]

Forego the Backhoe unless you have a lot of trenching to do. Devote the $5,000 a Backhoe costs on a compact tractor to tractor TPH implements. (You can likely have a pro with a mini-excavator do all the trenching you need for $1,000)

It's awesome that this forum has members like this - the ones that know everything that everyone needs and feels the need to tell them what they need. I don't know what your problem with buying a tractor with a backhoe is, but, clearly you have issues, as this is not the first reply to a thread where you have given the OP the same advice to not get a BH with their tractor. Why would the OP hire someone to do the work?? You don't know the budget they are working with, do you? In fact, you have no valid reason to tell them not to buy anything - he did not ask for help on deciding whether he needed a TLB, he asked for input on makes, as far as the cab - it really is none of your business.

Pick

 

[airbiscuit]

It would help if we have a better idea of what you want to do with your tractor. What implements are you planning to buy - mower- tiller- rear blade - box blade - backhoe - snowblower - ? the list goes on. What is your budget? When you say redo your driveway are you talking about adding and grading gravel or something more? What do you plan to use the backhoe for?

 

[jeff9366]

It's awesome that this forum has members like this - the ones that know everything that everyone needs and feels the need to tell them what they need. I don't know what your problem with buying a tractor with a backhoe is, but, clearly you have issues, as this is not the first reply to a thread where you have given the OP the same advice to not get a BH with their tractor. Why would the OP hire someone to do the work?? You don't know the budget they are working with, do you? In fact, you have no valid reason to tell them not to buy anything - he did not ask for help on deciding whether he needed a TLB, he asked for input on makes, as far as the cab - it really is none of your business.

Pick

Note: The OP, Rookkee22, "Liked" Post #2.



"This is not the first reply to a thread where you have given the OP advice to not get a BH with their tractor."

I try to be consistent.



I'm well known for editing. Perhaps by tomorrow I will adopt your views. CHECK BACK.

 

[jeff9366]

Awesome!! I'm awaiting my MF 1725 TLB and, I am going with a zero turn for the lawn.

Pick - 4/10/2021

SoCalRedTractor said:

"We are in a tract with 1 acre lots - I've settled on the MF 1725M TLB with a rake, box blade, tiller & QH (no mower) to do the work.

I've been doing the shovel, rake, wheelbarrow thing for way too long maintaining the 2/3 acre that is landscaped - so, a SCUT will do me just fine."

Pick - 3/7/2021


After you accumulate 500 hours operating your ~ on-order ~ Massey-Feruson ~ first tractor ~ I look forward to reading your experience with tractor and Backhoe working ~ 2/3 acre ~.

Sheesh!

 

[Rookkee22]

It would help if we have a better idea of what you want to do with your tractor. What implements are you planning to buy - mower- tiller- rear blade - box blade - backhoe - snowblower - ? the list goes on. What is your budget? When you say redo your driveway are you talking about adding and grading gravel or something more? What do you plan to use the backhoe for?

I won't need it for cutting grass because I already have a zero-turn mower. I want it for plotting flower and veggie beds, moving fallen trees ( some are lot of the mature trees are dying), re-grading gravel driveway, moving dirt to level out low area, too old to lift large items like I used to back in the day. Snow removal as well.

 

[dodge man]

Look at a JD 2025r or 3025e, both are free of the DPF because they are less than 25hp. Kubota makes a B and a L sized machine that are also 25 horsepower machines that would be a good choice.

 

[kenmbz]

Is your land flat or hilly.
I love my 1720 for getting between trees, but don't use it for my driveway (asphalt). Also have 6 acres, hilly, mostly forest with 5 smaller grass areas, added wheel spacers to stablize on the angled hills.
If you can go bigger and still fit everywhere, then that always helps.

Look at what attachments you may want, need enough weight and power to drag them around.
I use a 7' front mounted plow to do 700' plus 2 driveways of plowing, no chains, just 4WD.

 

[Williy]

Look at a JD 2025r or 3025e, both are free of the DPF because they are less than 25hp. Kubota makes a B and a L sized machine that are also 25 horsepower machines that would be a good choice.

I ordered a Yanmar YT235C 35 hp tractor and it don't use DPF

willy

 

[Beeenvenue]

The kioti 2610 is known as best in class for 25hp and below (no DPF required). Since it is the same tractor as the 3510/4010 just smaller engine, the frame is as heavy and FEL capacity/hydraulics all designed for 40hp. Kioti is the biggest name that isn’t green or kubota and has been in the US for 30+ years. You will typically get more for your money with kioti than the other two. Dealer network is large and growing but of course doesn’t match kubota or Deere; if you have a good kioti dealer close enough then that’s enough.
Sounds to me like you’d be better off with a grapple, box blade, tiller, and forks than a backhoe as none of what you mentioned seemed to use the hoe - but only you know if there is value in that extra cost and hassle to remove it to use the 3-point.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you want the more deluxe cab version get the Kioti 2610SE HST

 

[fried1765]

I moved out of suburbs to 6 acres - 3 acres with trees and 3 with lawn.

I looked at the Kubota B2650 and B3250 with cab. I need a back and front loader, and something to redo my gravel drive way...

which would you recommend?
Or would a Kioti or Mahindra is better? They seem more economical and has more upgrades without the up charge that Kubota offers.

Which has ones has parts that are more readily available?

Gas or diesel? I don't want to deal with DEF diesel stuff.

In Michigan near Milan


Thanks

"I need a back and front loader" ????
A back loader? Huh?
If you have ever even thought about a Mercedes....buy a Kubota!

 

[Williy]

Have you seen this:

willy

 

[jjp8182]

I won't need it for cutting grass because I already have a zero-turn mower. I want it for plotting flower and veggie beds, moving fallen trees ( some are lot of the mature trees are dying), re-grading gravel driveway, moving dirt to level out low area, too old to lift large items like I used to back in the day. Snow removal as well.

How heavy of things will you need/want to lift as a single unbroken item?

I ask as loader capacity can be one of those things that can drive the tractor size (part of how I ended up with a Kubota L3560 on less than 3 acres) - and that capacity should be considered with respect to lift height and reach at that height. There's a whole lot of marketing tractors purely on loader lift capacity which isn't something that's always useful on it's own. For example: being able to lift 2000lbs, but not being able dump/load it into/onto the intended place doesn't do much good

A few other things to consider are:
1) time to perform a task vs. how much you time you have; this will drives implement sizing and in turn tractor sizing (for example: just because someone could mow a 5 acre field with a 22" push mower doesn't mean it's practical for everyone to do so)
2) budget - not just initial tractor purchase, but planned implements and other things that may not be as obvious (e.g. tools to perform regular maintenance or have it done).
3) any other hard limitations on size that may apply (e.g. overall height for parking it in an existing garage & overall width if you need to get through a gate).
4) other special considerations for your location; for example: hills/slopes, higher altitude operations (unlikely in MI, but...)
5) any special preferences on desired implements that may have special requirements (e.g. 3rd function on the loader for operating a grapple, or rear remotes for things like top & tilt kits, snow blowing vs. pushing where the type/volume of snow that usually needs to be removed at a single time may play a part)

...and if you really want to get into the weeds
6) look into the required maintenance intervals (sometimes a cheap tractor is cheap because it's going to require a lot of regular maintenance) - it may not make a huge difference with a small tractor, but with a larger tractor or larger the fluid capacities having to do something like an oil change every 400 hours vs every 200 hours can eat away a difference in upfront price pretty quickly (depending on how often the tractor is being used obviously).

While everyone here can help obviously spend your money, it's unlikely anyone here (other than you) will be making the payment or spending the time to do whatever work you want/need to do around your new place. So on that note it's probably worth taking any advice given with a grain (or bag) of salt.

BTW Currently DEF doesn't become an issue until the engine HP goes over 75HP, and anything under 25HP won't have any sort of emission system --- and opinions on emissions systems for tractors between 25HP and 75HP tend to vary by location, type, and how an operator runs their equipment.

Just my $0.02 though...

 

[Rookkee22]

Looked at the LS and Kioti today. Is it common practice for the dealer to change the quoted price to a larger amount when you ask about 0% financing?

The dealer told me it would me 4.3% for the LS and I'd loose the rebate too, and 0% for the Kioti but works out to 3.5% intrest and I'd loose the rebate as well.

This seems a bit odd to me.

I bought a zero turn e-mark last year and received the rebate, along with 0% financing.

 

[Williy]

with "O" percent financing they hit you with finance charges up front
and they say "0"% financing. They always have a way to screw you

willy

 

[Rdrcr]

Looked at the LS and Kioti today. Is it common practice for the dealer to change the quoted price to a larger amount when you ask about 0% financing?

The dealer told me it would me 4.3% for the LS and I'd loose the rebate too, and 0% for the Kioti but works out to 3.5% intrest and I'd loose the rebate as well.

This seems a bit odd to me.

I bought a zero turn e-mark last year and received the rebate, along with 0% financing.

I believe this practice is fairly common in the tractor world and I have experienced it on a couple of occasions while tractor shopping. My dealer absorbs those fees so the buyer doesn't pay any extra for 0% financing.

Mike