Roof - Repair or Replace

/ Roof - Repair or Replace #1  

wjmst

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2003
Messages
273
Location
Strongstown, PA
Tractor
kubota bx2200
I live in Western Pennsylvania and we get all four seasons of weather. Our (manufactured/modular) home was built in 2005 with the ?0 year architectural shingles installed on the roof. It is a steep roof, similar to a traditional old church roof. The house is a story and a half cape code style, 2 dormers on the front and a shed dormer on the back.

Most of the roof and attic seems to be in good shape. We have had issues with moisture (poor ventilation) in the attic that were (in my opinion) only semi-resolved. There is still some wet and rusty nails and black on the underside of the roof decking. Now we found we have a leak at one of the dormers.

I am not sure whether to have someone attempt to repair the roof or just replace it. Any opinions? Would a new roof help with the moisture in the attic as well? What about the metal roof versus shingled roof debate, pros and cons of each?

Thanks for any input you can give me to help me make an informed decision.

Wes
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #2  
Shingles are far superior in my experience. Practically all metal roofs leak in my experience and there’s no solid way to fix them. Another downside is the rubber on the screws deteriorate and they start leaking.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #3  
I would replace it with these since it is a steep roof. My house has a Mansard Style roof, very steep. Roofer recommended these because of the nailing flange. They look fantastic

SureNail(R) Technology | Owens Corning
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #4  
Getting estimates now on the other end of PA.
Our current roof was put on in 06’. No issues but it’s at the end of its life span.

I’m getting estimates for roof, soffit, facia, gutters and about 2 sq of siding.

50 year shingle estimates are coming in between $15k and $44k (laughably).

Metal quote for standing seem was $30k.

The roof is 29sq.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #5  
On a steep metal roofed building that I know of, the rains would rush down so fast that the dormers were always leaking as the rain would literally jump the joint and work its way under the dormer roofing.

Standing seam would be the only metal I'd want on a steep roof with dormers.

Now the end all to end all roofing is all copper standing seam!
BUT until it gains patina it is one giant mirror!

Another consideration.
I have known of insurance companies that insist on roofing replacement at 20 years under threat of denying any water damage claims.
In my case they even reduced my premiums when they learned of my having done so.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #6  
In my experience, roofers are second only to foundation repair companies in how crooked they are. It's almost impossible to find an honest roofer, but in most cases, it takes a decade to realize where they cut corners.

Moisture in the attic is from not having enough air flow. With the constant changing of temperatures and humidity levels, the attic space develops condensation. The only way to remove that moisture is air flow. Heat rises. Air coming in from the soffits, warms up in the attic, and exits through the vents. A ridge vent gives you the most air flow if your soffit vents are open and allowing air to enter. In some homes, insulation will cover the soffit vents and the air flow is restricted. In some homes, there are only a couple of soffit vents. In new homes, the entire soffit is a vent with products from Hardie or Smart. You really cannot have enough air flow in an attic.

A valley in a roof is a very common place for a roof leak. In poorly done roofs, they just overlap the underlayment and then shingle over that. In better roofs, they install metal or Grace Weathershield. If this was not done correctly when the roof was installed, then you cannot patch it. Eventually the roof will have to come off and the valleys will have to be done properly. Next place for leaks are the vents, or anything else going through the roof. Bad roofers will re use the old vents and flashing. A new roof has to have all brand new flashing and vent covers. And last, the flashing along the side of the dormer has to be metal and there cannot be any nails through it where water will flow. The siding has to be above the shingles at least an inch, with 1 1/2 inches being better. It's ugly to most people to see that flashing, and not have the siding touch the shingles, but it's the only way to make sure it's water proof.

When talking to roofers, the first thing I ask is "how long are the nails that you will use?" Roofers will save a buck anywhere they can. some will use staples. Run away from those guys. Most use nails. They have to be 1 1/2 inches long or longer. The shaft of the nail has to go through the decking for it to hold. You have to see this when in the attic to know that the correct nails where used.

Some roofers will leave the old tar paper up when stripping the shingles. They do this to hide the issues with the decking. If nobody can see the damaged decking, they don't have to fix it. On older houses, 1x pine was used. It varies in size all over the house. It also has massive holes in it from knotholes, splintering and just falling apart into the attic space. Plywood is OK if it's in decent shape, but it tends to break apart when nailed. An inspection of the underside of the decking is very important before signing a contract with a roofer. I prefer OSB. It holds nails better then plywood because it doesn't blow out when nailed. But brand new, plywood and OSB are both going to hold nails about the same. Second roof is when OSB is far superior to plywood. Cost of materials also makes OSB more desirable.

Insist that all brand new flashing is installed around the edge of the roof. I get a lot of work fixing rotten soffits and fascia from new roofs that did not get any flashing installed. It's cheap and easy to install, but if a roofer can save a buck, he will!!!

Metal will last longer then asphalt shingles, but it's usually more difficult for most roofers to install. You need an experienced roofer with metal roofs to be sure it's done right. There are also a lot of options with metal roofs, from hidden fastener, to R panels to metal that looks like shingles. The price goes from comparable to shingles, to a lot more money for metal.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #7  
From your post, it seems to me you have 2 separate issues:
Poor ventilation
Dormer leak

If you don't have a ridge vent, have one put in. And also have somebody go up into the attic to pull any insulation away from the eaves, so air can get into the attic to remove condensation. If you don't have an eave soffit with a LOT of ventilation, have more put in. As a poster above stated, "You can't have too much ventilation".

The dormer leak could very well be an issue of poor flashing where the vertical meets the slope of the roof. Needs to be closely inspected, and probably re-flashed and caulked. Check the inside of the dormer for water stains to isolate where the water is coming in. It might be coming in from somewhere on the roof, running down the slope of a rafter and stops and drips when it hits the dormer. If that's the case, then you have a leak in a vent, or skylight, or other penetration on the roof. Could be where the vent stack penetrates, or an exhaust fan from a bathroom, etc.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #8  
"In my experience, roofers are second only to foundation repair companies in how crooked they are. It's almost impossible to find an honest roofer, but in most cases, it takes a decade to realize where they cut corners."

Reminds me of a prosecuting attorney I worked with once upon a time; she made the statement that something like 90% of the parolees, when asked what job they were going to when they got out; they said "Roofing". I think tree trimmers are in there somewhere, based on my experience.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #9  
Well, just like anything. You gotta do your homework when looking for a roofer. For me, it was a pleasant experience. I watched the whole process. They started on my house on a Monday and finished on Saturday. I believe the whole project was around $14k. They did the tear off, installed all new paper, not tar paper, something new lightweight and better. Installed all new flashing and Owens Corning shingles. They also installed a new roof venting system. Here is the beginning and the end

roofing1.jpgroofing2.jpg
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #10  
I'm a retired roofer of over 40 years doing slate, tile, wood shakes and wood shingles along with metal and asphalt shingles.
look for a couple competent contractors maybe at least one that does historical work and don't be afraid to ask questions.
Tell them you want a detailed written estimate.
Shingles usually do not last as long as stated especially have to watch "lifetime warranty" which is basically the manufacturer's way out to warrant the shingles.(lifetime is up).
I'm very fond of metal roofs as long as the install is correct but I'm not a fan of a lot of the metal shingles out there.
If you go back with asphalt/fiberglass I would seek out someone that would solder the transitions such as at the front of a dormer where the step flashing meets the headwall flashing.
Make sure any valley extends beyond any facia board enough not to have water siphon back and do any damage.

1 Would a new roof help with the moisture in the attic as well? If you are getting moisture it could be a leak in the roofing or poor ventilation which should at the least be looked at.
Sometimes you may see a little frost on the nails protruding through but that could be normal which happens when temps, humidity are right and will dissipate.
You may need either additional intake or exhaust ventilation installed.
2 What about the metal roof versus shingled roof debate, pros and cons of each? Metal will last longer than most shingle roofs but has a few drawbacks such as price and that you would need a snow guards or rail to keep any snow/ice buildup on the roof
and not either slide off and damage your gutters or hit someone below. Shingles have the granular surface and that wouldn't be needed.
If I were to purchase shingles I would look for someone to HAND NAIL them on. (I know I'll get the arguments but I'll stick with experience)
 
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/ Roof - Repair or Replace #11  
Check into the shingles that are also solar panels. Might be worth the extra cost.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #12  
There is still some wet and rusty nails and black on the underside of the roof decking.

The black on the underside of the decking may be mold. I've have it tested and if confirmed mold, you need to remediate that.

I agree with everyone else that has said you are due for a new roof.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #13  
I built our house here in '82. I did EVERYTHING except the small patch of living room carpet and the foundation. I heard all the horror stories about roofers - so I did it myself. Twenty years later the asphalt shingles are still in great shape. I had an old roofer and his helper instal a new roof right over the top of the original shingles.

Architectural shingles rated at 50 year. The second set of shingles went on in 2002. I have a vaulted, exposed beam ceilings throughout the house. The old roofer went to great lengths to ensure the nails he was going to use would go INTO the 2 x 6 exposed ceiling but not totally penetrate. The nails he used penetrated the 2 x 6 ceiling about 9/10 of the way. He had been recommended by several folks living out in this area.

I knew this for a fact. After I installed the first roof - not about to do it again. I didn't know about knee pads until I finished the first roof. It took my knees a couple months to heal. Guess I made the correct choice in hiring the old roofer.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #14  
I just went through this several months ago. House built in 2004, two-story home with a steep roof pitch with shingles. I do not have dormers. My roof was leaking in a few places through the ridge vent which ran the entire length of the roof. The ridge vent was constructed of aluminum. New ridge vents are usually made of composites not metal. Like you I received estimates ranging from low reasonable to ridiculous. I decided to replace the roof with 50 year architectural shingles using a roofing company with good reviews, I spoke with the estimator at length before signing the contract and watched the job being done. The job was supervised by a foreman on the ground who stayed there the whole time. I am happy with the appearence of the roof and my decision. My advice to you would be to replace the roof. All the best.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #15  
I'd add to Eddie's comments re roofers.

Sure they'll probably lay out shingles 'nice and pretty' but rarely if ever point out or admit (if they even know) what the actual cause of problems are.
It often take a good general contractor to find and fix actual problems.

When U see huge icicles everywhere you know circulation is a problem, not shingles. (or lack of insulation)

I've seen where complete blockage of eaves blocked circulation causing mega ice dams.
Insulated eave overhangs, metal directly on plywood all rusted thru in 8 yrs, (metal sweats needs circulation)

Attic type rooms with little insulation in knee walls, hey those walls are more like ceiling and need same R value insulation + vapor barrier.
Once saw a large building with all metal roof that sweated so badly that all the ceilings practically dropped off.
Little or practically no air vents!
(I sliced to peak caps off and added full length cap vents plus opened both eave ends to admit air flow)

So few folks do not realize that a proper attic should be at the same temperature (or very close) to the outside ambient air.
In colder climates that becomes even more important.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thanks for all the great insight, advice, and tips. I have some calls in to local places and I'll see where that takes me. I did call a couple of those nation chain type metal roof dealers and they seemed like a very high pressure sales pitch on the phone, so I don't think I will be inviting them to check out my place any time soon.

I know I have a condensation (air flow) problem. The issue is from the knee wall up to the attic. The insulation is stuffed in there and the Styrofoam baffles seem to be just jammed in there as well. Years ago the builder put some PVC pipes in there to create an air channel, but I don't think it is enough air flow as there is still condensation. So maybe I need a roof and an insulation specialist.
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #17  
One comment about metal roofing involves valleys and dormer. In snow country where snow slides off the metal roof, ranch style houses without valleys are great. The valleys may impede snow movement, and hence ice dams. Just my observation. Jon
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #18  
Thanks for all the great insight, advice, and tips. I have some calls in to local places and I'll see where that takes me. I did call a couple of those nation chain type metal roof dealers and they seemed like a very high pressure sales pitch on the phone, so I don't think I will be inviting them to check out my place any time soon.

I know I have a condensation (air flow) problem. The issue is from the knee wall up to the attic. The insulation is stuffed in there and the Styrofoam baffles seem to be just jammed in there as well. Years ago the builder put some PVC pipes in there to create an air channel, but I don't think it is enough air flow as there is still condensation. So maybe I need a roof and an insulation specialist.

From what you are describing, I think that you have a couple of things going on; ventilation, insulation that may not have been installed with enough venting, and perhaps roofing issues. I would find an older general contractor of the "been there, done that" category. Like @dwellonroof, I would look for someone with experience in historical homes, as they will have seen issues before. It may take some time to find the contractor. All the ones that I have ever known had more than enough work by word of mouth, and kept a pretty low profile.

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #19  
In my experience, roofers are second only to foundation repair companies in how crooked they are. It's almost impossible to find an honest roofer, but in most cases, it takes a decade to realize where they cut corners.

Moisture in the attic is from not having enough air flow. With the constant changing of temperatures and humidity levels, the attic space develops condensation. The only way to remove that moisture is air flow. Heat rises. Air coming in from the soffits, warms up in the attic, and exits through the vents. A ridge vent gives you the most air flow if your soffit vents are open and allowing air to enter. In some homes, insulation will cover the soffit vents and the air flow is restricted. In some homes, there are only a couple of soffit vents. In new homes, the entire soffit is a vent with products from Hardie or Smart. You really cannot have enough air flow in an attic.

A valley in a roof is a very common place for a roof leak. In poorly done roofs, they just overlap the underlayment and then shingle over that. In better roofs, they install metal or Grace Weathershield. If this was not done correctly when the roof was installed, then you cannot patch it. Eventually the roof will have to come off and the valleys will have to be done properly. Next place for leaks are the vents, or anything else going through the roof. Bad roofers will re use the old vents and flashing. A new roof has to have all brand new flashing and vent covers. And last, the flashing along the side of the dormer has to be metal and there cannot be any nails through it where water will flow. The siding has to be above the shingles at least an inch, with 1 1/2 inches being better. It's ugly to most people to see that flashing, and not have the siding touch the shingles, but it's the only way to make sure it's water proof.

When talking to roofers, the first thing I ask is "how long are the nails that you will use?" Roofers will save a buck anywhere they can. some will use staples. Run away from those guys. Most use nails. They have to be 1 1/2 inches long or longer. The shaft of the nail has to go through the decking for it to hold. You have to see this when in the attic to know that the correct nails where used.

Some roofers will leave the old tar paper up when stripping the shingles. They do this to hide the issues with the decking. If nobody can see the damaged decking, they don't have to fix it. On older houses, 1x pine was used. It varies in size all over the house. It also has massive holes in it from knotholes, splintering and just falling apart into the attic space. Plywood is OK if it's in decent shape, but it tends to break apart when nailed. An inspection of the underside of the decking is very important before signing a contract with a roofer. I prefer OSB. It holds nails better then plywood because it doesn't blow out when nailed. But brand new, plywood and OSB are both going to hold nails about the same. Second roof is when OSB is far superior to plywood. Cost of materials also makes OSB more desirable.

Insist that all brand new flashing is installed around the edge of the roof. I get a lot of work fixing rotten soffits and fascia from new roofs that did not get any flashing installed. It's cheap and easy to install, but if a roofer can save a buck, he will!!!

Metal will last longer then asphalt shingles, but it's usually more difficult for most roofers to install. You need an experienced roofer with metal roofs to be sure it's done right. There are also a lot of options with metal roofs, from hidden fastener, to R panels to metal that looks like shingles. The price goes from comparable to shingles, to a lot more money for metal.

Yep.....that 'bout says it all!!
 
/ Roof - Repair or Replace #20  
Thanks for all the great insight, advice, and tips. I have some calls in to local places and I'll see where that takes me. I did call a couple of those nation chain type metal roof dealers and they seemed like a very high pressure sales pitch on the phone, so I don't think I will be inviting them to check out my place any time soon.

I know I have a condensation (air flow) problem. The issue is from the knee wall up to the attic. The insulation is stuffed in there and the Styrofoam baffles seem to be just jammed in there as well. Years ago the builder put some PVC pipes in there to create an air channel, but I don't think it is enough air flow as there is still condensation. So maybe I need a roof and an insulation specialist.

You can toss a rock out second floor window and probably hit Amishman.
Check around who does best steel roofs and get problem solved by real craftsman.
 

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